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Ford 2001 Heavy Duty F-250

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Comments

  • ottografottograf Posts: 3
    Not sure from the way it was posted whether you got the idea---does anybody have a date for the new 2002 Super Duty trucks and any info on changes or addition of options from the ones offered in 2001? thanks!
  • 187ms187ms Posts: 4
    I've decided on everything else, but I'm still debating on the engine size. Does anyone have any recommendations with regard to this?

    I'm inclinded to stick with the stock 5.4L V8, but I've read that the only difference between it and its larger V10 brother is maybe 1-2 MPG and that it's actually better to get the V10 simply because this is a whole lot of truck.

    I'd sure appreciate any advice.

    Cheers,

    -Charlie
    edmunds@linuxninja.org
  • bowhuntwibowhuntwi Posts: 262
    I saw a site last week that had the changes for the 2002, I'll see if I can find it and post it, but from what I remember, the design of the headlights are changing, a power seat for the passenger, a new security package. I have a Y2k CC with a 5.4 with 4.1LS it does what I ask of it in pulling but I may go to a 2002 V10 or go into Dodge's new crew cab, haven't decided, but one thing for sure I'll not buy from my last ford dealer.........
  • 187ms187ms Posts: 4
    You might check out carsdirect.com if you're unhappy with the local dealer experience (I know I am). You can build your own rig and they simply take $600 over invoice as their cut which, I suppose, is reasonable. A hell of a lot better than trying to haggle with sales guys trying to get it down that low.

    Cheers,

    -Charlie
    edmunds @ linuxninja.org

    PS: Thanks for the engine info
  • ottografottograf Posts: 3
    I order any GM/Ford/Dodge I want from a dealer in South Georgia at $300 over invoice and never give them any $$$ until I see the vehicle and tell them I want it---fact is the last vehicle I ordered he gave me the keys and thanked me before I reminded him that he needed to be paid---great experience---have done business with them for 14 years---they work by salary and not commission---I am sure you should be able to find such a dealer where you live---I would ask around

    PS---If anyone can tell me where to find the new options/changes on the Ford Super Duty F250 for the year 2002 please email me if possible---thanks! Tom at TSSawyer@aol.com
  • bessbess Posts: 972
    Engine choice should really be based on what you want to do with the truck..
    Although the SuperDuty is 'alot of truck', in some configurations the SuperDuty weighs about as much as an Expedition SUV which runs just find with the 5.4L.

    More opinions of mine:
    5.4L:
    - if your towing needs are light (by superduty standards)
    - if your towing needs are infrequent
    - works really well with the 5sp manual. (and I hear a 6sp tranny will be available in 2002).
    (I'm not a fan of automatic trannys anyway. The 4r100 seems to take up more of the 5.4L power, causing it to shift more often than I prefered).
    - 4.10 ratio is a preference of mine. mileage is excellent (better than an Expedition), power is excellent.. (Think of an F150 with the 4.6L).
    - is not 'underpowered' as some folks might claim.

    V10:
    - need to tow heavy
    - need to tow often
    - works well with 5sp and auto tranny..
    - 3.73 works for most folks, unless you really need extra towing capacity or you plan to install larger aftermarket tires)
    - is an awsome engine with more power than the 5.4L (duh), but at a price of 2 mpg's city and 1mpg highway (best case)

    Again, the above is just my opinion..

    00 F250 xlt SC 4x2 5.4L 5sp 4.10LS overall mpg for life of the truck 15.5
  • 187ms187ms Posts: 4
    Thanks for the info. And please forgive my ignorance in the subject, but in this realm, I am a complete newbie.

    What's the difference between the 4.10 and the 3.73 axle ratios? And what benefit, if any, does the limited slip axle provide?

    Thanks again for all your help.

    Cheers,

    -Charlie
    edmunds @ linuxninja.org
  • bessbess Posts: 972
    Good honest questions.. no problem..

    3.73= for every 3.73 revolutions of the driveshaft, the tires go 1.

    so, when you go to a higher rear diff ratio (numerically) the engine will be at a higher RPM for a given speed, than a lower ratio..
    Rpm at 65mph: (stock tires)
    3.73 = 1900 rpms
    4.10 = 2100 rpms

    The higher ratios (numerically) give more of a 'punch' and increase towing capacity, but if you run too high of a ratio it can use more fuel and affect mpg..

    The lower ratios can increase mpg's (if you do alot of highway driving), but if your towing or doing alot of city driving, the tranny may have to shift down a little more often if the rpm's drop too low.. (thus negating any mpg advantage in the city or while towing).

    Limited slip: (this is an oversimplified description):
    With a normal diff (open diff), basically only as much torque is applied to the ground as the wheel with the least resistance will support.. Ok, in english, only one rear wheel spins, the one thats on the slipperier surface).

    With the limited slip diff, even the wheel that on the more solid surface gets some extra torque. It doesn't get as much as if the diff was fully locked up (like if it was a solid axle), but more than an open diff.

    So, if one wheel is in mud, and the other on dry pavement: with the open-diff, your stuck.
    With the limited slip diff, you might get out..

    To summarize my rambling:
    4x2 without LS = 1 wheel drive
    4x2 with LS = 2 wheel drive (both rears)
    4x4 without LS = 2 wheel drive (1 front, 1 rear)
    4x4 with LS = 3 wheel drive (1 front, both rears)

    I hope this helps
  • 187ms187ms Posts: 4
    Thanks again for all of your assistance with this decision making process. You've been a great help and I really appreciate it.

    Cheers,

    -Charlie
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    Hi,

       Here's a link for the changes to Superduties for 2002.


    http://www.sunrisefordfleet.com/guides/

  • dcapsdcaps Posts: 13
    Are you thinking about changing to the V10 or the Dodge CC for any reason in particular? Your rig is set up like the one that I have been looking for and I was wondering if you have any concerns that I should be wary of.
  • bowhuntwibowhuntwi Posts: 262
    This was my first Ford, and it was a big step. I'm very happy with the truck its self, but the buying ordeal & dealer workmanship has @%#*. I have only had minor problems with it, but the horror stories I have heard on here about the 4wd systems failing or the engines after the warranty. I have taken a look at the extended warranties, the future dodge cc or getting into another F250 from a differant dealer, if I traded trucks, I would only do it as swapping payments, I wouldn't go to a higher payment. If I don't trade I will buy the extended for the peace of mind. Took my truck to the dealer last week, he had it for 2 days, he replaced the cab mounts (2nd time) and fixed the front springs, also there was a clinking noise on hitting bumps. To find this noise, they basically stripped the back seat and all trim out of the truck. I told them I thought it was coming from inside the door. On the report I got when picking it up, it stated it was in the C-Pillar rear driver's side, unable to locate exact place, so they took expanding spray-in sealer and filled that space inside that pillar support, now they say that noise is gone. They also said they looked inside the door and found nothing. Here's the kicker, while putting the panel on the pillar, they broke a couple of the tabs thinking I wouldn't notice, plus they got sealer on the side of the back seat. Took it in last Saturday, told them of my findings, they ordered a new panel & back seat cover, looking at that seat, it seems it would be easier to replace the seat back then the seat cover. For that visit minus the stuff they screwed up, they charged Ford Warranty $741.00. Yes, it's bad that when a person has 38K + into a truck that you can't get good service. I have learned my lesson. I had thought I had researched enough, apparently I hadn't, plus I found this site after I had ordered my truck. I have learned alot from the people on all the forums. Dan the setup of the truck is find, research your dealer, nothing can leave a more bitter taste then dealing with a dealer that could care less after you drive it off the lot. Just thinking of dealing with these people if I have something major happen...........

    This Ford dealer also has a dodge dealership right next door, when I bought a new Y2K01 durango, I stopped in to see what they could do on a new one since I had boughten my 98 D from them. The 98 D was mainly the reason I went to their Ford D. I had gotten good service from dodge (same family owned). Now they have moved their Dodge dealership next to their ford shop and aquired the ford attitude. I walked out of their dodge dealership vowing I would never buy another vehicle from their dealerships.
  • dcapsdcaps Posts: 13
    It's amazing how lousy dealerships can stay in business, but I guess it makes a difference when you have a monopoly . The Ford dealerships in Central Oregon are separated by at least 1/2 an hour of highway driving. I know way too many people and businesses that will drive an hour or more, bypassing one or two Ford dealerships, to buy and service their vehicles. It's a shame.
    I'm certain Ford Corporate has an on-line spot for dealership complaints. Whether or not they do anything about it is another story. I guess the good news is that great threads like this one will get that information out and it makes a huge difference to someone, like myself, who is contemplating his first purchase of a new truck off of the lot. Lots of my friends/clients have given me the scoop on the three dealerships nearest to home and it looks like I will be driving a bit to order my truck when I finally figure out what in the heck I want.
    Thanks for the info!
  • fredvon4fredvon4 Posts: 18
    Thanks to this board and others I took possession on April 28 of new F-250 SOF 4x4 crew/short V10 Auto 3.73LS. Only disappointment so far is the small fuel tank. All the literature talks 38 gal and mine with the short box is 29 gal. First 500 miles are at 12.5mpg via the on board computer and my manual math @12.433mpg avg. Pretty much what all of you with similar rigs stated.

    OK all you who have a few years more experience with this truck than I. Questions:
    1. Do I have any fuel tank options (local ford service does not think so)?
    2. If larger diameter tires are used is the speedo recalibrateable? By me? By Ford?
    3. As this is a big tall truck already, I prefer NOT to lift it. Having said that, does anybody have experience with the largest (height + width) tire that will clear the front fender/bumper?
    4. Unimpressed with chilton/peterson books...is the Ford service manual worth getting?
    5. I will be installing a very complex HAM radio system (75 amp draw on the 12v buss).
    The question is: Does anybody have experience with the computers in newer Ford trucks shutting down/dieing due to high wattage RF?(have been told not to go higher than 300w PEP)

    Again Bess and all others great board, hope I can contribute more soon. Fred KD5NCO
  • barry401barry401 Posts: 5
    Here's my story in a nutshell. Ordered on Feb 3 F-250 Lariat Crew LWB PSD. It left the factory March 9 with an ETA to the dealer of March 24. Found out 11 weeks later one of the chrome nerf bar steps was damaged. Shipping company sent it to a dealer 3 weeks prior to be fixed & never told anyone. Shipping company's arm had to be twisted to reveal status. My dealer tried unsuccessfully to get it from the repairing dealer. Shipping company refused to give ETA to my dealer. This Saturday it will be 13 weeks & not delivered. Is this the way to run a business? Ford Motor was not helpful to my dealer. They washed their hands once the truck leaves the factory. Something needs fixing here. Anyone out there with a similar horror story?
  • jcmdiejcmdie Posts: 595
    Ford hires the shipping company and they have the control. I would think that Ford would be pressing the shipping company as its Ford's truck until it is unloaded at the dealer. It doesn't make sense that they wouldn't ship it complete and have it fixed by your dealer. If it ever shows up, I would inspect it with a microcope. There may have been more damage than they are saying.
  • fordbluefordblue Posts: 13
    Haven't been on the board in quite a while. My 01 SD 4X4 CC 4:30 AT SB gets around 10-11mpg city and 13-14 hwy. I'm not really a speed demon or anything so I drive her pretty easy. Of course there is the occational time when you want to stomp the gas and feel the power of the V-10. Got about 9 mpg pulling the 27 ft. TT. Used to get 5-6 mpg pulling a 25 footer with my 95 F-150 5.8.liter 3.73, so I'm in Hogs heaven with the SD. Anyway on the subject of bed covers. I bought a snug top fiberglass cover for the truck. Been pretty happy with it. Snug Top matched the color nicely (Harvest Gold). The lid is pretty easy to open and close. I went with a fiberglass mainly cause I carry some baseball equipment for my son's baseball team. Makes it convenient to lock the stuff up after a game. Made a dump run this last weekend and took the snug top off. Pretty easy, took about 5 minutes, and it's a two man job. Anyway I Better get back to work. Have a good one.
  • Not a happy camper,as my new 01 powerstroker crewcab is in the shop for the 2nd time for the same transmission problem.You pay big bucks for the convenince of automatic shifting and it turns out to be garbage.I thought ford solved their auto tranny problems.My truck stalls when you pull up to a stop light.They tell me the tranny is not downshifting to low gear,but staying in higher gear thus stalling.Anybody else having these problems? Any advice for a otherwise happy man with the rest of the truck,especially the diesel motor. Please help powerstroker2
  • jambojambo Posts: 28
    What a beast! I traded in my 2000 tundra for a real truck. I pull a big boat and the tundra did ok but the back seat was for storage only. My family can now go boating with me and carry some luggage. The dealer is trying to sell me on a new chip to give better hp and shift performance. Has anyone done this yet - he says that unleaded 87 is still ok?
  • jcmdiejcmdie Posts: 595
    Most chips require premium fuel, but not all of them. Make sure considering gas prices. You got a nice rig.
  • fredvon4fredvon4 Posts: 18
    Stalling at a stop? Sounds like the torque converter is locked up and not releasing during the down shifts. Do you drive "two footed" ( some gas, some brake)? If so you are keeping positive torque on the drive train and fooling the transmission computer into thinking you are under greater load. Acatully the ford trans and drive train are over engineered as they basically use the same components up through the F450 series. Very capable, with better than average fault/repair history. However there will always be some one with a problem part, as there is no such thing as a perfect combination of parts. Your trans is fixable eaven if total unit swap is the eventual fix. I would recommend that you take the fixed truck on a long drive with 75% max load before warrenty expires.
    Ref: shift kits/chips, there are good products and there are garbage on the market. The most bang for the buck (IMHO) are the Gale Banks products. Beware, if you install any "kit/chip" that increases hp/torque and changes the internal transmission line preasures, and then trash your trans. Ford will go out of their way to prove that you caused the failure. Fortunatly you may controll this situation simply by not telling the service shop of the modification(after you have removed the 'kit').
    I have never heard any opinions that the chip caused a failure. In fact, many I know, insist that the higher lind preasures insure more positive shifting and lock-up and helps keep trans oil temp down thus preserving and increasing the life of the trans. Heat is a tranny's enimey. Get a trans temp guage with real numbers and keep below 250F, around 280F the fluid will cease to lube/cool and break down and hurt your trans.
    Note: Free flow air cleaner (K&N) and less restrictive exhaust will yield slight increase in power and better milage. Changing the ignition and EFI fuel curves(via computer chip) will also increase power and milage. If you choose to go all the way with complete exhaust system change including headers, you will get greater power but lower RPM torque will suffer, and you will loose in the long run if you tow heavy loads.
    The reason you bought a Ford truck is the same reason you do not see many performance options in the after market for them. The owners are not asking for them. We are basically happy with the factory capabilities. Most chevy / dodge owners want/need more power, thus the after market makes more options for them. Chevy reconized this and responded with the new power train choices. As much to combat Ford but also their owner base is really not happy about $25-30K for new truck and then $1500-3000 to make it perform.
  • fbroomfbroom Posts: 29
    Your problem is most definitely torque converter related. It doesn't matter what gear your transmission is in when you stop as you would recognize the problem as sluggish acceleration and fewer shifts than normal, not stalling. The purpose of the converter is to decouple the transmission from the engine while stopped and idling. It sounds like your converter is not decoupling upon stopping thereby causing the engine to stall. This would be caused by either a siezed/locked converter or the lock-up signal provided by the engine electronics/computer becomes permanently engaged after initial engagement. If your converter is siezed, you should notice that the engine can be started and will idle when in park but will always stall when you put it in gear. If this isn't the case and the problem only appears after the truck has been above approx 40-45 mph, then it's most likely a problem with the lock-up signal. I would think the computer would be generating a malfunction code that the shop could look for if this is the case. I wish you luck in getting the problem fixed. Anyway, I also have the 4 speed auto and just turned 10K miles this week. So far so good. My only complaint is the mushy shifting. I've been looking into computer chips to improve the shifting but would like to keep using 87 octane fuel. Any suggestions would be gladly accepted.
  • cygnusx1cygnusx1 Posts: 290
    Straight from today's Washington Post:

    The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration has decided to proceed with an investigation of more than 800,000 Ford trucks after dozens of owners said they lost steering control. At least 50 owners of 1999 and 2000 Super Duty F-Series pickups have complained about a fracture in the steering gear sector shaft, which makes the front wheels turn when the driver moves the steering wheel. At least 41 crashes and 13 injuries have been reported to Ford and NHTSA.
  • 1999-2000 Ford Super Duty F-Series sold 500,000 per year, reaching 1,000,000 sold by September 2000.

    50 owners complained. making that 0.005 percent of the 1999-2000 trucks. (that's 5 thousands of one percent of vehicles sold)

    41 crashes REPORTED(No evidence this steering wheel fracture was the cause found) and that is 4.1 thousandths of one percent of vehicles sold)

    So don't get alarmed by this scare tactic post. I'm not discounting any possible issues with the steering gear shaft, just stating the actual percent of vehicles.

    But here's a possiblity, a front end collision could provide enough stress to front end parts. And I we all know the steering wheel, and any shafts and gears in between is connected to the front wheels. So maybe this is an effect, not the cause?
  • For everyone-I'm trying to decide between a Dodge 1500 quad cab 4X4 with the big V-8 and the Ford F-250 supercab 4X4 with a v-10. I think the F-150 would be too small. I drove the supercrew and didn't like the way it handled. I don't do any significant towing or long distance driving. I live in the NC mountains so there is snow and lots of hills. I have a Toyota Tundra and with the wife and two kids in it it feels like a sardine can. So I'm getting rid of it. I want a bigger truck for safety and the power and size if I need it one day. I can get a loaded Dodge at invoice and I can buy any Ford product at invoice minus holdback on the "A" plan. I've never had a Dodge but I'm afraid of their reputation in Consumer Reports, etc. But I've had several Fords and they were all junk. I'm open to all opinions from Ford and Dodge lovers.
  • bmaigebmaige Posts: 140
    I've owned two Ford pickups and my Dad had one, as well, and we've never had a minute's trouble out of any of them. We have only owned three because they lasted a long time the way we care for and drive them. Dad had a '74 F-150 and I had a '71 F-250 for years. It was still a great truck when I sold it to a friend for his Father, who needed wheels. He got inebriated one day and tried to drive it up a big pine tree beside the road. If he had been in a lesser truck it would have killed him. The only reason I got rid of it is that I bought an '82 F-150 4x4 with four speed manual transmission and inline six to use on the farm and didn't drive the F-250 that much. I'm looking at buying a new F-250 4x4 now to replace the F-150, and wish I could get one with the old inline 300 c.i. six cylinder in it again.

    As I say, I have owned two Ford trucks and my Father one, and we have loved them. No junk in those trucks.
  • jcmdiejcmdie Posts: 595
    You have a couple of good choices. I have a '98 4X4 5.9 quadcab. No real problems with it. The interior is the best layed out of the big three. Gas mileage is poor. The ford is also an excellent choice (possibly my next truck). In the 250/350 series Ford is tops.
  • bessbess Posts: 972
    Quality wise, I've always had good luck with Ford. I have around 25k miles on my 00' F250 SC and everyday I drive it I know that I chose the right truck..
    Like you, I also prefered the SuperDuty over the F150 for the extra interior room. I've had the wife and 2 kids on long trips several times now and there's plenty of room for everyone..

    When I was looking at trucks, I drove them all, F150's, F250's, Dodge 1500's and 2500's and Chevy 1500. At that time (late 99):
    Dodge1500: I didn't like the ride. It felt like it wondered on the road and I didn't like the steering feedback.
    Dodge2500: same as the 1500, only alot stiffer.

    Chevy: Even the SuperCab chevy had a pretty decent back seat, and it did ride nice.. BUT, it didn't have 4 doors at that time, and the local chevy dealership's customer service was considered very poor by several of my co-workers.

    F150: a little smaller interior than I wanted.
    F250: everything that I wanted in a truck. good size, nice ride, and a good price (400 under invoice).
    00' F250 SC 4x2 5.4L 5sp 4.10LS

    My neighbor (who owns a bricklaying company) has SuperDuty and a new Chevy (both crew cabs). He says the Ford is a better work truck, but prefers the smoother ride of the Chevy when out with the family.
  • mduperiermduperier Posts: 1
    I have had two Dodge pickups and have been pleased with both. No problems whatsoever. But, if you are going to tow or haul unusually heavy loads, go for the F-250. If you just need a truck for light duty and it has to be either a Dodge 1500 or a Ford F-250, the Dodge will work great and cost less.
This discussion has been closed.