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Ford 2001 Heavy Duty F-250



  • jdtopperjdtopper Posts: 58
    look at the motor mounts for signs of obvious degradation due to cracking, tears in the rubber, etc.

    You can also put the engine under load and watch to see if it "torques up" very much. That's easier to do with an automatic; you just put it in gear and keep one foot on the brake while you feed it a little gas with the other. With a stick, you could probably still do it by setting the parking brake and maybe placing some blocks in front of the tires. You could then (with the hood open) peek under the hood while you slip the clutch, or have someone else do it for you while you watch the engine for movement - be sure to stand to one side, and not in front... ;-) If it moves more that a half-inch or so when it loads, I'd be asking the Ford guys if there's something wrong.

    If I remember right, yours is only a couple of years old, so it's pretty unlikely that the mounts are shot unless you've been awfully rough with it, or have been really unlucky recently.

  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    You have surge at 70? Are you a V10 or PSD? From your mileage I'm assuming PSD. If you're a V10, 18.5 mpg!!! - what were you doing, coming down a mountain pass in neutral with a tailwind? I've gotten 14.5mpg - 1.5 hours at 55 mph, flat roads, no wind, no load, no traffic.

    From replies I've gotten, I was beginning think that the surge is different between gassers/diesels, and Autos vs.manual trannies. Don't begin to know how cruise control works on a diesel, so I can't even a hazard a guess as to what if any common denominator there is between them. Maybe some programmer goofed in his code when they designed the cruise software. :-)
  • benr0benr0 Posts: 22
    Yeah I know, I don't expect to get 18.5 again. I have a V10 CC 3.73. Auto. I was going @ 65 on flat land with a 25mph tail wind. I29 south from Sioux City Ia to Mound City Mo. No AC, nothing in bed etc..
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    Just had to ask 4x2? or 4x4? I have 4x4, CC, 3.73, LWB, auto and have to drive like my Granny just to get 14.5. But it sure is fun to say the heck with mpgs and put your foot into it every so often ;-)
  • bessbess Posts: 972
    00 f250 5.4L 5sp 4.10LS rear. I use my cruise all the time.. It sticks right at the speed I set it at.. Usually around 55 to 65.
  • benr0benr0 Posts: 22
    Sorry, I should have added to prev post, I have a 4x2 SWB.
  • bigsnagbigsnag Posts: 394
    I haven't got a chance to look back through all the posts, but has anyone had trouble with their SD brakes rattling when driving on dirt (bumpy) roads? My dad's was rattling bad. He took it in and they changed out the bolts and it is better but certainly not cured. I was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if anyone found a good fix. Thanks.
  • jcave1jcave1 Posts: 137
    Haven't heard of this specific problem. Lots of complaints about brake squeal however.
  • I just bought this truck with 71K miles, outstanding shape with new tires and brakes, for $21K. I am wondering if anyone can give me advice on a good Electric Brake Control. I tow a 3-horse bumper pull (about 7000# total) 3-4 times a month. I used to have a 93 F250 with a Teconsah (sp?) brake control and I was always banging my knee into it. I gather that Ford does not make a control for the 250 so I'll have to go with an aftermarket one. Any suggestions on one - brand, location on/under dashboard, installation?

    Many thanks!
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    I have the Tekonsha Voyager XP on mine. I have it mounted below the little "cubby hole" near the bottom of the dash panel, right in front of the gear shifter when it is in reverse. It is a slight reach if I have to adjust it, but it never has been in the way. If you are like me and are inclined to go overboard on things, don't get the "big" controller just because it is only a few dollars more. My controller is rated for up to eight brakes and I only have four. The controller works great on the road, but when driving around under 20mph, sometimes it gets a little overaggresive and will lock-up the trailer tires at the slightest touch of the brakes. I have learned to use the trailer brakes to stop the whole rig when driving slow, but those first few times before I got used to it were mighty embarassing. I've read that a "bigger" unit like mine applies too much voltage too quickly to the "smaller" four brake system, causing the lock-ups.

    Just my $.02 worth.
  • gthiltongthilton Posts: 30
    My 2000 250 SD CC V-10 has a buzz coming from the manifold or heat shield area at 2400 RPM. The dealer has looked at it and can't get it to go away. They say they haven't seen this problem before. Funny thing is, I drive a 2001 350 V-10 at work, and at about 4000 miles, it started the exact same problem, except at 2200 RPM. Too big a coincidence for me to believe I have an "isolated" problem. Please advise me if you know anything. Thanks
  • benr0benr0 Posts: 22
    Sounds to me like the v10 flutter, Try doing some searches at -

    Some have found heat shield weld broke, and fixed with muffler clamp.
  • eleets00eleets00 Posts: 27
    Hello all. I hate to go backwards, but I placed this entry in the appropiate threads, but no one responded soooo. I would like to if anyone here owns the 2000 F150 Harley Davidson SuperCab &/or the 2001 F150 HD CrewCab. How do they drive? How is the reliability? What is the gas mileage like? I'm looking at the 2002 Ram Quad Cab, but like the Harley Davidson F150's better. But.. after my 96 Contour fiasco, I'm skeptical of buying another Ford product (I've heard the horror stories on the pre-2K2 Ram's). I live in Stn Mtn/Lithonia, GA & have to drive 48 miles round trip to work every day. Plus I plan on getting sport bike & would like to know which one is better equipped to handle the bike. How much should I expect to pay for either? Any info/advice anyone can provide will greatly appreciated.

    PS - Anyone know where I can get some info on the next generation F150's?
  • Ford Motor Company uses a puncture hole in the boot that holds grease at the sway bar bushings in order to allow grease to escape if the mechanic puts too much grease in it, correct?
  • mesazonemesazone Posts: 51
    I was washing the 2001 F250 last night and decided to use window cleaner on the windshield to clean it. While up there, I noticed that right along the black seal across the top, there are a few spots where it looks like (oh what's the right word?) underside pitting? Like the glass was chipped on the underside before it was put in. It wasn't in just one spot either. I can take pictures and post them on my website and post a link here. (I just got my first digital camcorder and forgot about using it to show this.) I noticed this on both sides of the windshield. I only noticed it across the very top. Anyone else notice theirs with the same problem? Now that I've worried a bunch of F250 owners...
  • mesazonemesazone Posts: 51
    Here is the link to the picture showing the chips I was talking about in #736
  • mesazonemesazone Posts: 51
    Looking to get a shell top for the bed of a F250 XC SB. Any advice on who is better and fits better. Since looks are in the eye of the beholder, I'll have to judge that for myself. What are the expected prices?
  • thumper1thumper1 Posts: 2
    I have a '00 F250 Crew Cab w/ a PSD and have had very poor luck at fixing a "popping" or "clunking" sound from the underbody. My dealer has replaced the cab mounts, spring isolators several times and somettimes it's better, but still comes back after time. Any Similar problems or issues???
  • mesazonemesazone Posts: 51
    Same problem with my '01 F250 SC PSD. I notice it more when it's cold or going over large bumps that require a lot of travel. I also notice it over small bumps when I'm loaded down. Doesn't sound pretty. Haven't done anything to fix it yet.
  • jdtopperjdtopper Posts: 58
    My '00 350 CC 4x4 has been popping, clunking and thunking since it was new. I have 50k on it now. The noise originates in the front suspension, on the passenger side. Mostly it seems to occur when I make a sharp right turn into an uphill ramp, like a driveway, or when I have backed out of a parking space with the wheels cut hard over - when I start moving forward, I get a clunk. The dealer replaced some components in the springs (brackets and such) under a technical service bulletin, which helped at first, but it still clunks.

    Lately, I've been wondering if it might be the front driveshaft, since it almost always occurs just AFTER I've been in reverse (and turning).
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