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Mazda CX-7 Prices Paid and Buying Experiences

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  • hi everyone. well, finally pulled the trigger here in houston after much debate over price, mpg, other c-suv's (ie rav4, outlander, forester, rogue). many thanks to all that posted their experiences. made my 1st visit to a dlr, and sat in 1 for the 1st time tonight. today, the dealer had advertised $7K off 08 cx7's. this meant $17.4K for a $24.4 base sport, which i found hard to believe! i showed up 1 hour before close. was completely expecting them to do a switcheroo, say they were sold out of the promo, the promo was a typo, expired, etc, etc. :P

    so during the test drive, the sales guy says, "dont know if you're aware, but right now we're taking $7K off our 08's." i didnt even have to mention the ad! i said, "ok, that sounds like a good price." we got back from the test drive, and he asked, "so were you just looking, or are are you wanting to write this up?" i told him to start the paperwork. he asked how i was paying, & b/c it was cash, they didnt need to run credit. 5 minutes later he walks back with the sales order. sure enough, $24,385 msrp was written up as -- $17,385 + TTL = $18,687.24 OTD.

    obviously, a completely flawless transaction. will happily post the salesmans name & dealership after taking delivery monday. now, as long as they dont start offering $10K off msrp in a couple weeks, ill be a happy camper! ;)
  • des5des5 Posts: 88
    Congrats there. You did $800 better than me, but that's the difference a month can make.Here's how it works: FWD Sport with no options invoices for 22860 with destination. Take off 4000 finance discount, 1000 quota spiff, and 500 loyalty brings you to 17360. Or, the dealer's way of looking at it, 5500 discounts + 1500 invoice to sticker margin = 7000 off. Note that the dealer never takes a bath - there's still 475 holdback in there, and the sale may generate additional cumulative year-end spiffs. Also note that higher trims and options add a couple of hundred extra dollars in margin that with a flat "7K off" doesn't end up in your pocket without negotiating. That's why I always work from invoice down. This is still a very good reference point for future buyers.
  • Thanks des, and thanks for the explanation of the discounts. I agree about working back from invoice. My problem was that I had heard/read so many conflicting reports of the various discounts, & the amts, I was uncertain which ones to include in my "include this or Im outta here" price! I also wasn't up for haggling over the various discounts. For example, I dont own a Mazda, so technically would not qualify for 500 loyalty, even though it might be available to all. Overall we're content. I do need to remember your attitude about "the difference a month can make" when next we see someone post a $10K off invoice purchase! :sick:
  • (sorry for the delay)

    Wow! First of all, sounds like you were not only getting the deal, but getting it on a dealer exchange (DX). I am not as familiar with Mazda's process on this, but wow- good job. The only time either dealer really gets benefit from a DX is if 1) high demand vehicle with strong front end profit, 2) trading for a vehicle you REALLY need- maybe a first year you have low or no stock on or if you need to hit a minimum sales figure to qualify for next years inventory baselines.

    Hail!? That dealer did the right thing (by walking away). Always say "Hail No!!" to a hail car. They look good on a sunny lot, even better if there is a light mist in the air, but wait until you see it under a fluorescent light. Plus, depending on the state, it's permanently on the title.

    I only had one experience with a hail storm on the lot, but it was bad (East coast, near the water, not a lot of hail). Every car (250-300) received a fair amount of damage,

    Every state is different, but for us (MD/DE/VA), we had to disclose hail damage (not in ad's, but on buyers order and addendum sheet) on all NEW vehicles. Used didn't matter.

    At that time, we had 5% money (end of year), strong incentives, and about 20% insurance money on each car. It was a strong 2 months for profit, but I didn't like selling them. John Doe may not see/care, but once you've noticed, you see it every time. I haven't bought a used car without being able to see it under a straight tube fluorescent light (easiest way in my opinion- just sight the overhead bulb reflection and follow it, if that straight bulb gets a sudden bend in one spot, Bobs your uncle) since.

    Not sure how your deal got that far without disclosure, but very happy you didn't get a hail car.
  • Agreed. A lot of discussion (including mine) has been talking about "$x off sticker", but you should always work from invoice. Invoice "is" the actual initial cost to the dealer (but you have floor plan incentives, marketing incentives, etc, etc). And not all dealers want to work that way. Honestly. I preferred it even when I was involved in sales. Everything is laid out on the table, there's no "trade for" baloney or showing extra for the trade to make them happy so they don't argue about the price (don't be sentimental about the car you are trading in, it will cost you money!). Just be honest when from the get go, if you have a trade, tell them you want to deal "wholesale to wholesale'- you want an independent prices for your trade and the vehicle you are buying.

    Just realize three things and you'll get a "good deal" every time:
    - Your trade isn't worth what you think it is. Yes, I know, you just put tires on it, and wipers, and a battery....it just doesn't matter. Sorry. the new buyer won;t pay extra either.
    - A "good deal" isn't always the drop dead best price. You need service, will they give you a loaner (get it in writing, even if just on the "we owe" sheet), look at reviews for the dealership. A "good dealer" will get you every incentive he can if it doesn't affect his bottom line. Rebates and factor cash (like loyalty money) doesn't go to him anyway, he should want you to have it if he cares bout his customers.
    - The dealer HAS to make a profit. C'mon, no matter what you think of dealers, it's a business. And the market isn't doing well. And you want them to be there when you need service. And the salesman has a family too. Now, that profit should be fair, and that's what you negotiate.
  • Which dealership did you get it at?
  • hi oldfashioned,
    i was waiting until it was "official" (aka took delivery), but as we've emailed a few times, and are heading over tomorrow for pickup, confidence is high this will be completed. now, if during the test drive, black smoke is bellowing from the exhaust, i'll be singin a different tune, but until then, the dealer is:

    Russell & Smith Mazda / Houston, TX. The Sales Mgr is David Rawls and my salesperson was Fred Session. That said, we did not do any negotiating whatsoever. Spent more time waiting in line for gas during hurricane Ike than I did purchasing this vehicle.... :)
  • THANKS, will give them a call asap.

    However, I saw this review of that dealership online, check it out.

    http://www.edmunds.com/dealerships/Texas/Houston/RussellSmithMazda/fullsales.457- 80.oldNew.html
  • Thanks,
    Yes, I too have heard various stories (charging xtra for lojak, warranties, etc). That was why I kinda wanted to wait until after delivery to let you know who it was.

    I look at it like this: The sales guy already wrote up the sale sheet, and the numbers match exactly what their 1/4 page newspaper ad posted. Will bring a certified check for that exact amt, not a penny more. I saw the car in-person, on the lot, and they are prepping it as we speak.

    I suppose it's possible for finance to muck it up... somehow... but if they do, I'll simply get up & leave. And should that happen, I will let every auto-related site, blog, etc know all about my experience. Such will also be the case if all goes well... a no-hassle $24K c-suv for $17K.

    Will let you know how it plays out tomorrow! ;)
  • So if I am understanding everyone correctly, it's either special financing or less money off?

    For October 1-31, Mazda is offering 0% on the CX7. This mean that they won't come down in price as much? I read through their terms, I didn't see anything as such....
  • des5des5 Posts: 88
    While not in the public offers, Mazda will provide "dealer participation money" in lieu of the special financing. Since last month it was 3500 on 1.9%, presumably its about 4000 this month. Generally if you get your own financing (especially through a credit union), you will only spend about half this money in interest, thereby coming out ahead.
  • " "dealer participation money" in lieu of the special financing. Since last month it was 3500 on 1.9%, presumably its about 4000 this month. Generally if you get your own financing (especially through a credit union), you will only spend about half this money in interest, thereby coming out ahead. "

    Hi, would this be the manufacturer to dealer incentive (which is about $3750 this month)? or is this an additional rebate? thanks!
  • des5des5 Posts: 88
    Hi, would this be the manufacturer to dealer incentive (which is about $3750 this month)? or is this an additional rebate? thanks!

    Yes, it is. Here's the simple calculation for October: take the invoice price of the trim level you want, add in the invoice price of the options, add destination, subtract $5500.This will get you within about $200 of what any dealer can do (not necessarily what they will do). Depending on state law, some of the discount may escape tax. Others fees like doc prep are for you and the store to hash out.
  • Yes, it is. Here's the simple calculation for October: take the invoice price of the trim level you want, add in the invoice price of the options, add destination, subtract $5500.This will get you within about $200 of what any dealer can do (not necessarily what they will do). Depending on state law, some of the discount may escape tax. Others fees like doc prep are for you and the store to hash out.

    Hi Des5,
    Thanks for your reply. So if I am understanding this correctly I can deduct approx ~$5500 from invoice price (if I am not financing thru them) to use as a guideline when negotiating? That would sound like a pretty awesome deal on the 08's. Thanks!
  • I have found a dealer closer to me then chicago who has the vehicle I want on his lot( with slightly less options) and he is willing to go 6900 off of the msrp, and at this point I am going to pull the trigger. I have been without a vehicle for over 9 months now.
  • going by your math, I could have gotten the car for 18992, I got it for 19235 or something, not bad.
  • Bought my car from a dealer really close to me, got 7k off, paid a little more then I wanted, but also got more car. THANK GOD ITS OVER
  • #548 of 548 by oldfashioned Oct 09, 2008 (12:48 pm)
    Bought my car from a dealer really close to me, got 7k off, paid a little more then I wanted, but also got more car. THANK GOD ITS OVER


    Congrats!!!
  • I'm trying to do this by email but the dealer is uncooperative. I am about 50 miles from any other dealer but will have to begin emailing them as well I think.I am turning in a leased 2007 AWD CX7, which I love, but buyout is 19.9 and it looks to me like I should be able to come close to that in a new one right now? By email I got this:

    I had my manager run a 2008 CX-7 Sport AWD with the 8 way power driver seat and monnroof/6cd package MSRP $28,195 and we can sell for $25,000 plus your tax and fees on a purchase for 60 months is $517.89 , 72 months is $451.58 with $0 out of pocket.

    On a lease with $0 out of pocket with 15,000 miles a year for 36 months your payment is $557.40.


    I had already told her I wanted specifics, no mention of interest rate or which fees in particular she's talking about. Of course I'm trying to price here from invoice up rather than deal in payments. It looks to me from the postings here that I should be more in the 18-19k range, although the invoices listed at Edmunds are 2009 not 2008 so I'm not entirely sure where to begin.

    Thoughts, suggestions? thanks. :cry:
  • Hold firm scott, dont take no for an answer.

    Go down to the dealership, pick out the car you want, tell them such and such a dealer is offering you 7k off of the sticker but its far away and the dealer you are at is closer, will you beat it, they will try and haggle you and say I can maybe do 6k, then they will say 6500, then they will ask you what will it take to get you to buy this car, then you say 7k off the sticker, and they will give it to you.

    When I went to the dealer to buy mine, I was there for 6 hours, and not 1 customer came into the building, NOT 1!, THESE CARS ARE NOT MOVING AND NOW IS THE TIME TO BUY,
  • #550 of 551 not a good deal by scottk218

    "...a 2008 CX-7 Sport AWD with the 8 way power driver seat and monnroof/6cd package MSRP $28,195 and we can sell for $25,000 plus your tax and fees on a purchase "


    They're not even taking the full manufacturer to dealer incentive of $3750 off. What a bunch of loonies they are...

    I agree that you're going to be way ahead of the game with purchasing a new one vs. the buyout option. Also I think $25k will get you an 08 CX-9.

    Still searching for my magic number...Good Luck to you!
  • des5des5 Posts: 88
    Scott, here are the numbers you need:
    Running the MSRP numbers, I'm off by 175, there must be a couple more small options on this car, so figure another 150 invoice.
    AWD Sport 23811
    Seat 305
    Bose/Roof 1379
    Misc Opts. 150
    Destination 635
    Advertising Coop ~200 (varies by area)
    Total Invoice 26480
    Less 5500 = 20980

    I would tell them you will pay any dealer anywhere 21130 + tax and tags, and the first one to step up gets the business. Some stores will test to see how ignorant you are about the hidden incentives. Generally once you tell them what you know, they come around.
  • des5des5 Posts: 88
    Hi Des5,
    Thanks for your reply. So if I am understanding this correctly I can deduct approx ~$5500 from invoice price (if I am not financing thru them) to use as a guideline when negotiating? That would sound like a pretty awesome deal on the 08's. Thanks!


    That's correct, if you give up the 0% financing. The dealer will likely offer you other terms, but you must shop those yourself, as what you get will depend on credit score, credit crisis, etc.
    In my opinion Mazda always overprices the cars to start with but gives it all up+ at the end of the model year. Even back in 2005 I bought my 6i for 5500 off sticker. Where else can you get a turbo CUV for 18K base?
  • Hey folks, it's too late for me, but curious if it's reasonable to offer a dealer S-Plan price less their discounts, versus MSRP less discounts. (S-Plan / MSRP diff is ~ $1500). Should the dealer be indifferent? Do they get the S=Plan diff back from mfr?

    Any info (for future purchases) is appreciated!

    Des, I definitely agree about the "where else can you get..." comment. I paid $17K+ttl for mine, and that's equivalent to a loaded Corolla!! :P
  • Thank you for the quick replies. I am turning in an 07 CX7 too, so there should be $500 owner loyalty cash as well I think? In any event, now I am pre-approved through my CU for a loan, so I don't need their financing. The sales person hasn't been back in touch with me since I told her that deal was too high. Well, except for an auto generated video ad about why they are the best dealership ever, that came through at 2AM!!

    I'll use these strategies and get back to you, probably with more questions! But hopefully with the details of a good deal!
  • QUESTION, If they are giving 7k off, and I buy another cx7 does that mean I can get an extra 500 since I already own a mazda
  • Oldfash... My take would be it depends on how they're "coloring" their discount. In other words, they're basically taking MSRP, and giving $5500 in discounts + $1500 invoice to sticker margin = $7000.

    So, if the $5500 in discounts equates to: 4000 finance discount, 1000 quota spiff, and 500 loyalty savings, then they're going to say they already included it in their discount.

    Of course, it never hurts to ask! ;)
  • How do you know all of this?
  • Thank you, I am satisfied I finally got my price, and especially on my color.

    Funny thing is, I bet the dealers still make alot of money on the cars. the get reimbursed all of the rebate money and splan money right?
  • des5des5 Posts: 88
    S-Plan is invoice, basically. The dealer gets some fixed money for doing S-plan, but I'm not convinced it really gets the buyer much. Now X-plan is a different ball of wax...
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