Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Transmission Problems

11011131516

Comments

  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Dear Applebee's, I had the same problem with my Dad's 97. I finally traced it back to a faulty ignition switch. I replaced it and attached wiring harness and problem gone. The part was around $100. @ advanced auto parts. I had to remove some plastic around the steering column to get to it. I think it took me a couple of hours from start to finish. Before I discovered the root of the problem I replaced some solenoids and wiring harness in the trany that was a waste of time and money. Good luck.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 871
    It should shift in manual 1 manual 2 and 3, if not transmission problem. If it does, electrical, pin E at transmission harness should have power with key on run.
  • OK, I realize that the ultimate answer to my issues is "replace/rebuild your transmission," but here goes: I have an '82 S10, V6, 3-speed automatic. The transmission is leaking a fair amount of fluid, put some stop leak in, not sure if it helped. I can deal with the leaking, cuz it's not gushing out, and I just throw some fluid in once a week or so. I have issues with it slipping, but as long as I keep the fluid topped off, it doesn't slip as often. Lately, though, I have a new issue: there is an intermittent clunking sound, only when it's in drive or reverse (doesn't happen in park or neutral), gets louder and more regular when I'm pulling a load, accelerating, going up a hill, etc. It only starts this clunking after the truck has warmed up, about 10 minutes after I start my trip to work or home. Before it gets warm, no noise at all. The noise gets steadily more regular and louder the longer I drive; fortunately I don't have a long commute. One morning, I didn't make it--I was at a stop light, and when I got the green, the truck simply wouldn't go. Lots of smoke, and no power. Got it towed, and after it cooled off I had no issues with it, until I drove it again long enough to warm up. Any ideas on what I might be looking at, short of replacing/rebuilding the transmission?
  • One more thing: the worse the clunking noise gets, the worse the truck runs. Loses power, idles real rough, until it finally just won't go.
  • i'm having a leak problem from the bell housing of my tranny. its leakn really bad. i stopped driven the truck. it has a 4 banger 2.2L automatic trans. what could the leak be from. convertor, pump behind convertor or a seal. but if i put 2 Qts. in and drive 3 miles , it all leaks out with in that time.whats most commen with this sittuation.
  • i'm having a leak problem from the bell housing of my tranny. its leakn really bad. i stopped driven the truck. it has a 4 banger 2.2L automatic trans. what could the leak be from. convertor, pump behind convertor or a seal. but if i put 2 Qts. in and drive 3 miles , it all leaks out with in that time.whats most commen with this sittuation.
  • My S10 acts like it is trying to take off in 2nd or third. Once you get it moving it goes good. But to take off you just have to give it time. It won't win a race across a busy highway. I serviced the trans and still feels the same. It also doesn't kick down when you punch after getting on the highway like it should. Does this truck supposed to have a Detent cable on itor is it controld by the module on the side of the transmission? If it is supposed to have a detent cable where is it? It has the 2.2 in it. Thanks and any response would be great.
  • chch2chch2 Posts: 1
    I am having the identical problem! I discovered that my Trans fuse was blown which is certainly the cause of the problem. Take a look at your fuse. Now my issue is that I put a new fuse in and it immediately blows. The underlying problem? You may get lucky and just have to replace the fuse and it won't blow out. If not we are in the same boat. I know the ground is good and I have disconnected all the cable to the trans and the 02 sensors which was suggested and still no luck. Maybe we can kill two birds with one stone here. Additionaly... The funny thing is the problem started right after I did my front brakes. Just a coincidence... I dunno but FML right now. My understanding is that the ABS is on the same circuit? Maybe I nicked it when changing the pads. Hopefully that solves your problem and if anyone has any suggestions for me. You rock! Thanks in advance.
  • Where is the trans fuse located? The connector on the side of the trans had been messed with and the odometer works sporadically. Will the fuse cause that too?
    I'm glad to hear its not the tranny itself because I could rebuild the dang thing and still have the problem.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 871
    What fuse are you blowing, clstr fuse 11 10 amp is trans and cluster.
  • I'm driving a Chevy s10 2001 automatic. A while back (about 2 months) my gears were slipping, every time the car should have been shifting, it stayed in gear and no matter if i floored it, the car would barely go faster until it suddenly kicked into the next gear. I took it to a transmission shop, but somehow when I was talking to the worker, the battery came loose. It must have reset something, because when he took it for the test drive, the car was back to normal- no problems.

    BUT, it just started doing it again today. What is the problem here? Can I just disconnect the battery and it will be fine for awhile or is there a bigger issue i should look at?
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 871
    I would try a new battery, sometimes they do weird thing to computers.
  • I changed the fork and bearing on my just bought 94 sonoma 2.2 5spd t-5 it just had a clutch and engine replaced when I bought it the fork is vibrating a bit sounds and feels like bearing is in contact with pressure plate dont understand why actuator also is spring loaded which would push fork forward a bit there is nothing to keep fork pulled back a bit to prevent this?? afraid I will burn up bearing as it is constantly spinning tried bleeding it no help noise goes away if I remove actuator while engine running and goes away if I rest foot on clutch pedal shifting is fine clutch is smooth what have I done wrong???? :cry:
  • I have a 98 s10 truck 4 cylinder 5 speed, every now and then when i shift it into 4th gear it wants to pop out of gear, what could be the pro :confuse: blem? is it a easy fix? a part that needs replaced or something more serious?
  • your popping out of gear problem is caused by one of two things shifter adjustment or a worn slider, since this is not a muncie transmission It sounds like a worn slider which is an intergal part of the transmission it locks the gear onto the shaft so the transmission needs to be pulled apart and most likly you may need a few other things, sorry for the good news.
  • try having the slave cylinder bled, it could also be a bad clutch cylinder or slave cylinder
  • My best guess is the noise is coming from your front axle, my truck used to do this also. Try replacing the transfer case switch (it has 3 vaccum hoses coming out of it and is located all the way on top of the transfer case only costs about $15 at a parts store). If the noise continues it could be a number of things in the right front axle tube (this is where the 4wd engauges and disengauges). If this has been a problem for a long period of time i would say that it is a combination of both problems as my truck has proved. ;)
  • Where is the speed sensor located ? need to plug in new speedometer cable . old one was unplugged before I bought it .
Sign In or Register to comment.