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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Transmission Problems

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  • My 95 S10 manual tran. will go in gear but will not go. It acts as if it is in neutral. Any idea what is wrong?
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Is it 2wd or 4wd?
  • msandmsand Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 s10 2wd pickup. Sometimes when I depress the clutch it whines a bit but not always. What could be the problem?
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    My S-10 is automatic so I'm not that familiar with the particulars. In general though, if you have a throw-out bearing that's on its way out, it will act up it's worse when you press in the clutch. How many miles on the truck or since you last replaced the clutch? If your S-10 has a slave cylinder you might check it's fluid reservoir to make sure it isn't low. If its not the hydraulic type and has the mechanical type linkage you might check the adjustment. Sometimes they get just enough slop in them to set up a vibration our resonance that is irritating.
    Good luck :)
  • I got in my truck yesterday and the clutch pedal went all the way down to the floor. It had been getting closer and closer for about a week. Now it goes all the way to the floor, truck will start, but I can't get it to shift into any gears. Is it my clutch? :sick:
    David
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Dave,
    The question is more like what part of the clutch. Does it have a slave cylinder that's leaking or dry on fluid? Does it have adjustments to it? You are correct in that if the clutch can't disengage, shifting is next to impossible while the engine is running. :)
  • Thanks for the reply. It has a slave cylinder, if that is like a brake cylinder, the fluid level is fine and there are no leaks.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Dave,
    When you say that your clutch goes all the way down to the floor, do you mean be for it disengages? It would be upsetting if a person stood on the clutch and the pedal wouldn't go to the floor. On a non-hydraulic clutch, most common is slipping. On hydraulic driven clutch as yours, the problem sounds like the clutch won't disengage. If the hydraulics aren't leaking externally perhaps its master cylinder is leaking internally. On brake master cylinders which are similar, sometimes wear and age on the piston seals will leak by causing the brakes to feel spongy with out external leaks.
    John :)
  • Hello my friend.
    The clutch pedal goes all the way to the floor so I can start the truck. But it want let me shift into any gear. I pushed hard on the shifter and it want go into any gears.
    David :sick:
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    If your truck will shift when the engine is turned off but won't shift while running, I'd say its time to get out the floor jack, jack stands, and the old tool box. On older trucks, especially column shift, they would get double shift, or stuck in two gears at the same time. However, I don't think that's your situation. If you have a "soft" clutch when you try to disengage, I would say its somewhere between your pedal linkage, clutch cylinder, and slave cylinder. Even if your clutch was on its way out, you should still be able to disengage and shift gears.
    Good luck,
    :)
  • I just went outside and the clutch pedal still goes all the way to the floor, but it will shift through the gears without the truck running, I wouldn't even start to know what to even look far. :sick:
  • It sounds like your slave cylinder went bad.....I have a 96 s10 p/up with the same problem. To do it yourself will cost you around $100 for the part or $400-$500 for a tranny shop to do it. while you are in there, you might want to consider changing out your clutch kit(around $200), since the tranny needs to be dropped to get at the part.
    ......Also, you can still drive w/o using the clutch. Just start the truck in gear and give it some gas. Go slowly at first til you get the feel of the shift points, then just shift when you can "feel" the spot. I've been driving my truck for 3 weeks now w/o my clutch.
  • Thank you for the reply. It ended up being the Clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder and a clutch kit. All together it cost $982.00. The clutch kit did have everything in it thou :shades: gh.
    david
  • I have a 1998 s-10, and its a manual transmission. It drives great with plenty of power, but coasting down hill with the clutch out, it will pop out of 5th gear. But I can push it back in and give it a little gas and it'll stay. And also when I put it into reverse, sometimes it'll not go all the way in(but feels like it is, because it will not go any further) and not go no where and I have to stop and put it on in. Do you know what this might be.
    Thank you... Jeremy
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Jeremy,
    Not being a transmission man I don't know how involved it gets replacing the retainer. When I have major internal tranny repair I pull it out and take it to a transmission shop. But before you do that I would suggest letting the transmission shop people take it on a test drive first. Its free and that way you know what your up against. I've experienced the same problem before on trucks, jeeps, and back hoes. Its no fun going down a steep grade and it jumps out of gear.
    Good luck :)
  • i have a 1986 s-10 and i have just put a clutch master cylender in it,could anyone please tell me how to bleed it,is there a certain way to go about it...please !!I need help!!!
  • Hi
    My truck is an 02' ZR2 and today when I put it in 4x4, it kept making an occasional CLUNK noise. If I put it in 4 low and 4 hi and it does the same. In two wheel it's fine. I drove it to work in 4x4 and it was fine, but the drive home was different. I've had it in 4x4 before and it was ok. Any ideas for a possible solution?? It sure don't sound good
  • rsr64rsr64 Posts: 2
    Owned since new, now has 40,000 miles. Tranny makes a whining noise sometimes when cold. Sounds like a pump problem. I`m going to try changing the the filter, installing a cooler, and flushing it out. A few questions:

    Which line is the low pressure one? The top or bottom one that goes into the radiator?

    Someone told me the filter is internal. I believe I have the deep pan tranny. Any major hassles replacing?

    Going to idle the truck with the low pressure line inserted into a container while I add fresh fluid. How many quarts needed?

    Thanks
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    My advice is to take your truck to a transmission shop you trust and let them test drive. Its free and they will give you some insight.

    Unless you do heavy towing the extra tranny cooler is superfluous. In most cases the radiator cooler is all you need.

    The top line or the bottom line have the same pressure. One is supply to radiator and the other is return. My guess is the one on top is in and the one on the bottom is out.

    The last time I flushed out my cooler(which is a heat exchanger inside the radiator) I used a can of flush I got at the parts store. It comes with a hose and fitting attached. The reason I did it then was I just had my transmission overhauled and it was required for the guarantee. With both lines disconnected at the transmission I attached the hose to one line and used half of the can in one direction, then reversed, using the remainder of can the other way.

    To change the transmission filter its not complicated but it is messy, no matter what way you go about it. When I had the pan off I installed a drain plug, which helps in subsequent changes, but its still a mess.

    I don't recommend the blood letting procedure your alluding to in your post. I think if I was going to go that route I would take it to a transmission shop where they can hook it up to their flush equipment and back flush. A few years back when I inquired it was a $150 procedure.

    Normally 40K miles isn't enough miles for the trans to be worn out. To me 40K is just starting to get broke in. But then again I usually drive them till the wheels fall off.

    Good luck, :D
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