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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • jfreejfree Posts: 5
    I don't understand why it would run fine for the fifteen minutes or so we drove it around after getting everything buttoned up, then forty miles on the highway, then decide to start acting up. It doesn't run hot, it doesn't sputter or hesitate like it isn't getting enough fuel. The fuel pump is only two years old or so and the filter was changed at the same time as the pump. Are you thinking bad injectors? I put it into reverse and it doesn't even feel like it's engaging anything. Push the gas pedal and nothing. In drive it feels like walking in chest high water.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 871
    Are you saying you have no reverse all the time or only after driving 40 miles?
    When you push the gas pedal and nothing does the RPM rev up?
  • jfreejfree Posts: 5
    I have no reverse right now and I had no reverse before I changed the transmission. It will go reluctantly in drive, but I doubt if I can get up to any respectable speed. When I try to accelerate with the truck in reverse it revs to about 2500 rpms. I used to be able to smoke the rear tires with the brake held so if it is the brakes locking up I don't know why it won't break free in reverse as its the opposite of first. When it first crapped out on me I just assumed it was the tranny, the engine was running as good as it had in quite a while and while I was on the highway it felt like I just lost all power to the rear wheels. Putting the truck in park wouldn't hold it still, the fluid smelled like burnt death, and the truck would barely move so I figured the tranny was just toast. Now I'm wondering if there really is a significant connection to the brakes, like maybe the rears are getting hot and locking up at highway speeds. Maybe the brake light coming on isn't connected to the ABS light coming on. I usually replace the front pads every year and a half or so, the rear shoes were replaced in '04. I'm just shooting in the dark, trying to think of anything. My patience is wearing thin with this truck.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 871
    Well a wiring problem would not cause no reverse. Will it go back if you push the truck?
    What is the history on the replacement transmission, junk yard?
    That transmission is infamous for broken sun shell, no reverse, no second or fourth.
  • jfreejfree Posts: 5
    Its a used tranny with supposedly 44k on it. It has a ninety day warranty on it so I'm covered there. I just don't want to go through the trouble of another replacement if something else is the problem. It doesn't want to roll backwards in neutral. I had to mess with it for a half hour yesterday to make it move in reverse so I could get it up on a car hauler to get it to my garage.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 871
    If it will roll back with the drive shaft disconnected, has to be a transmission problem.
    Any chance you rear differential is shot?
  • jfreejfree Posts: 5
    I jacked the rear end up yesterday and ran through the gears. Nothing in reverse, in drive it makes a terrible racket, metal an metal, coming from the tranny. The place I got it from sold me a piece of junk, no better than the one I took out. The only thing I can think of is the new fluid made it run okay but once it all ran through and thinned out it was back to junk. I'm going to have to pull it out again and try to find a better tranny. I checked the rear brakes when I had it off the ground, no problems there, and the rear end felt and sounded okay. Thanks for your replys.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 871
    Yes, planetary gears are shot, and sun gear too.
  • Hi, please help! I know little to nothing about cars, haven't had one in 7 years, but recently bought the above mentioned vehicle(it's a 4 speed), cheap, for use only sparingly. After a few weeks and adding maybe...30 miles to the odometer it's suddenly hard to get into any gear without grinding. My completely uneducated guess and hope is that the clutch cable is not tight enough, and is not adequately disengaging what needs to get disengaged when I shift. This guess is because I do ride the clutch more than I ought to due to a frighteningly long and narrow driveway that I have to use first gear and the clutch pedal to squeeze through. And the pedal does seem looser than when I first got it (though it's not dropped to the floor as if the cable was snapped). The problem seems to get worse as the car warms up (and ended up today in the car stalling out with the clutch pushed all the way down to the floor). The previous owner said they recently replaced both the slave and master cylinders. I am not super great at timing my gear changes to avoid grindage (though getting better). Reverse and first are bigger problems. Can someone tell me how to adjust the tension on the clutch cable, and if this could even be my solution? If I am way off base, and need a mechanic, any ideas on how much it might cost to repair? I am quite poor, especially right now, but do need the car for some things. Would the Chiltons book help me? I can't afford to buy one, but the library (ironically, the branch all the way across town) has a copy I could check out. Thanks so much for your time and advice!
  • 97 s-10 4 cyl. 5 speed.

    switched rear axle for two reasons, burned old one up, and gas mileage.
    old rear end had 4:10 gears in it. switched with 1995 s-10 rear axle with 3:42 ratio.
    done this before some years ago, but found out you don't just change out speedo gear anymore. parts guy at dealer said that the speed sensor listed for that truck is the same for many years as well as for manual or automatic trans. now have calibration issues. anyone have the answer to getting it re calibrated? is it an pcm thing?
    any help is much appreciated.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 871
    I believe it is a PCM cal, call a dealer and check and get an estimate.
  • schlaschla Posts: 1
    i broke the tranny on my 98 S10 when I was rolling slightly forward when I set it into reverse. there was a bang and then no reverse and no third gear. shop told me to replace the transmission. called AAMCO and they were a waste of time estimating how much it would cost to repair
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Posts: 175
    you broke the reverse reaction shell its a common weakpoint in all 4L60/4L60E transmissions but you should have only 1st gear and 3rd gear only ( takes a long time to shift from 1st to 3rd. trans will have to be removed and the shell replaced
  • Sounds like it could be a bad clutch. This happened to me with a dump truck that I drive at work. My boss ended up having the clutch replaced in the truck.
  • jugfujugfu Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 sonoma 2wd 2.2 litre with automatic trans. ocassionally trans will not move in 1st or reverse, feels like its slipping but will eventually catch in to gear.
    will not do this everytime usually when first taking off for the day.
    any information would be appreciated. Thanks
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Posts: 175
    try letting your vehicle warm up before trying to shift into gears its not a fix for what we in the transmission industry call "morning sickness" but it will give you a little time to get some money saved up for an overhaul.
  • jugfujugfu Posts: 2
    I have a sonoma with a 4L-60E 2wd with a four cylinder,does anyone know if the 4l60e out of a sierra or silverado would fit this truck, trans has removable bellhousing. thanks for any help
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Posts: 175
    what year ? since there are running changes such as pwm pump and non-pwm pump makes a difference and what year is the vehicle your getting the trans from? and what engine size will also make a difference because of calibration for instance you have a 4 cylinder and the truck has a v8.....
  • I am getting a P1886 code (shift/timing solenoid). it shifts hard from first to second gear, and check engine light is on. i need to an e-check on vehicle to obtain plates for the truck. with the check engine light on the truck will fail automatically. can anyone help me locate this solenoid, and can i replace it or does t need to be torn down to get to the solenoid. Any help would be appreciated. the abs light also comes one once in a while for no reason. the truck has been sitting for about 7 or 8 months. thanks
  • My 89 Gmc s - 15 with a 2.5 litter 5 speed 2 wheel drive sputters durring shifting and when down shiffting it likes to grind in third can some one please help me on theis two things.
  • rick1999rick1999 Posts: 6
    I have an 01 sonoma 2.2 engine with auto trans. The problem I'm having now is that when I get on the highway the torque converter doesn't lock up like it should once I get into overdrive and the truck also will not downshift into passing gear, also when I get off the highway the trcuk is idling at 1500 rpm instead of the normal 900 rpm. If I shut the truck off and start it right back up it runs normal. It just started doing this a couple of days ago but today the check engine light came on when it did it. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Posts: 175
    since the CE light came on have it scanned ill bet it comes back with a P0740 tcc performance code or a P0741 tcc stuck off....
  • tony2x43tony2x43 Posts: 4
    i went to motor vehicle for inspection and they told me i have code p1870 coming up on obd II. is this a transmission code? if so i am not noticing any thing wrong with trans. what is the cause of this code?
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 871
    It is for worn out parts in the transmission, yours has to be high mileage.
  • tony2x43tony2x43 Posts: 4
    it has about 110,000. now that i failed inspection because of it, do i need to rebuild trans? do you think there is anything i can do to get it to pass?
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 871
    Erase the code and don't go far to get it checked, it most likely will not set a code. Some day the transmission will over heat and damage the converter and clutches.
  • I have a 1995 S10 pickup with standard transmission. Around 230,000 miles. All I've ever really replaced is water pump, alternator, battery, u joint, etc. I drove the truck home one day from taking off the trash to landfill and parked it. The wife and I left to go out of town for the night and when I returned the next evening about 24 hours later, I got in it and the when I pushed down on the clutch, I didn't meet any resistance. I pumped the clutch and finally got it in reverse and backed it out of the driveway, but had numerous issues shifting it any more than that. I finally got it parked out of the way and have been trying to guess what is wrong with it. It will not shift even when the engine is turned off. The master cylinder is full of fluid and when I have my nephew pump the clutch there will be a few tiny bubbles come up to the top of the master cylinder reservoir under the hood. But the clutch still does not disengage for me to shift. Is this a slave cylinder issue? What do I need to do to correct this problem. Looking for cheapest possible solution. Old truck, but has much sentimental value. Thanks in advance, guys...as you have guessed, I am not a mechanic, but can do certain things.
  • I have a 1999 Chev S-10 4 cyl automatic transmition with 150K miles. I have had the truck for two years and have put 15k miles on it, during the entire time i have owned the truck it has run very well, despite having the ABS light lit on the dash. A few days ago i was driving on the highway for about 30 miles, as I was about to get off the highway the engine ran up to 4000 rpms and the overdrive was no longer working. I drove it home fine staying under 50 mph, after turning the truck off and making another trip a short time later the overdrive was working fine. I checked the trans. fluid it was a hair low so i added a quart. Truck is now running fine however from 50-55 mph the rpms go from 2000 to 2300 to 2000 to 2300 and so on until you go over 55 mps. Other than that the truck runs just fine. (ABS is indicator light is still and has always been on) Local mechanic says need new transmition do you all have any suggestions of what the problem may be? Thanks Kevin
  • You are going to have to rip the trans out and apart to get to the solenoid. If you are lucky you could just drop the pan and get to them. You will have to find out witch one b/c there will be two of them. If you plan to keep the truck for a while, you should just replace them both and be done with it.
  • It sounds like the clutch plates are going out so you will have to take out and rip the trans apart or you can always try to flush it out. It would be cheaper to flush it out first and if that dosn't work than you will have to rip it out.
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