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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Gasoline Engine Problems

191012141520

Comments

  • When I replaced the throttle body everything came as one unit. I also noticed the other day that it only begins to idle low once the truck had moved out of gear and is warmed up. When I first start it up it idles normally. I also looked at replacing the PCV valve but its built in. Anymore suggestions? Thanks
  • spalspal Posts: 1
    We are looking to buy a 2006 Sierra 1500...We tow about 2000 lbs. and need to know the difference between these 2 engines...Our favorite boat ramp is fairly steep and we don't want any problems with power...We also have a 4.3 V6 Safari van that lugs down a bit , pulling the boat out of this ramp...
    Is there a big difference between the 06 and 07 trucks? Should we wait and try for an 07 instead?
  • cjjonescjjones Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 GMC 5.3 and the truck wants to start on its own.
    It will crank over with the ignition off. If you put it in gear it doesn't do it but in neutral and park it does.
    I have a command start that I totally removed and it still does it. So it is not hte command start.
    I have removed the starter completely and and the wire is live. So it is not the starter.
    I have replaced the starter and ignition relays and it continues to turn over.
    It doesn't do it all the time but it happened today when I was no where near the truck and burnt out the starter.
    Any ideas would be great.
  • jeffkalijeffkali Posts: 2
    I degreased the engine on my 94 gmc sierra (350 4x4), and now my idle is high and the trans won't shift....some times at very high rpms. I'm assuming something is still wet, but it would be nice to know what.

    Please help, Jeff
  • I have had four ignition modules witin in the last two years. Three of these were within the last week. The shop claims it is a bad module, but three in a row? Does anyone have an idea on what else I can look for that is blowing up my module?

    Thanks.
  • surrfurtomsurrfurtom Posts: 124
    This is probably a moot issue by now, but for future reference.

    I had a similar problem on my 2000 5.3 about 5 or so years ago. It would start with a rough idle and then either clear up or continue or get even worse. It seemed to me the engine was losing a cylinder. The check engine light would come after a while.

    The dealer spent a long time and multiple visits trying to fix this as it was intermittent and didn't act up at the dealer. Luckily it was under GMPP as they lots of time and threw parts at it and it was out of initial warranty. Once it finally misfired when in the shop they scoped it and determined one cylinder was misfiring. It even destroyed two cat converters because of the richness of the exhaust when it misfired. As I recollect it turned out to be the ECM that was bad and it was affecting only one cylinder. The codes set were always general misfire.
  • og_ninjaog_ninja Posts: 1
    IT STARTED WITH A FAINT TICKING SOUND WHEN I STARTED THE TRUCK. I TOOK IT IN BEFORE THE WARRENTY WAS UP, AND ASKED WHAT COULD BE CAUSING THE NOISE. I WAS TOLD IT WAS THE IDLE ARM TENSIONER, SO I CHANGED IT. THE NOISE WAS STILL THERE. AT 101,800 MILES, THE LIFTER FELL AND FLATTEN THE CAM. COST $3100.00 TO FIX OUT OF POCKET. HAS ANY ONE ELSE HAD THIS PROBLEM.
  • beverollbeveroll Posts: 2
    Did you ever figure out what the problem is - I am having the same problem with my 94 chev 1500. Have had the map sensor done, 02 sensor and EGR done and still not fixed - sounds like exactly the same as your problem - we are getting very frustrated. Any hints would be very helpful
  • jdspradjdsprad Posts: 6
    Does a website exist where I can enter my VIN, and bring up all of the vital info of my truck, similar to that found on a window sticker at the dealer? I recently purchased a 2004 GMC 2500 CREW (6.0L), and the seller did not have the original sticker, nor did he know what gear (rear-end), or transmission that the truck has. Did GM install more than one type of tranny in the gassers for that year? I got a heluva deal on the truck, so I am not real concerned, but still need to know exactly what I have here. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • jdspradjdsprad Posts: 6
    Who has the better repair manual, and why? Thanks.
  • akjbmwakjbmw Posts: 231
    A more complete manual can be found at Helm Inc.
    It is the company that prints the user manuals for the dealer.

    Pricey, but you have to consider the accuracy and savings of doing it yourself.

    http://www.helminc.com
  • jdspradjdsprad Posts: 6
    Thanks for the reply......I will check out the site.
  • txrednecktxredneck Posts: 8
    I HAVE A 99 CHEVY 3/4 TON PICKUP WITH ABOUT 80 THOUSAND ON THE SECOND ENGINE. I HAVE CHANGED THE FUEL PUMP SEVERAL TIMES ON THIS TRUCK AND I HAVE CHANGED THE SPARK PLUGS AND THE PLUG WIRES. WHEN YOU GET OUT ON THE ROAD UP TO ABOUT 55 TO 70 AND LEVEL OUT ON THE THROTTLE, IT BEGINS TO JERK AND FEELS LIKE IT'S MISSING. ANYBODY HAVE ANY IDEAS TO WHAT MIGHT BE CAUSING THIS? I ALSO REPLACED THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND ROTOR. THIS SEEMED TO HELP AT FIRST BUT NOT FOR LONG. IT SEEMS TO BE WORSE WHEN YOU FIRST START OUT AND GETS BETTER AFTER YOU DRIVE A WHILE. HELP PLEASE!!!
  • jdspradjdsprad Posts: 6
    Typically, does the alternator get noisy right before it pukes; or just a sign of age. There is 80K miles on my original "Delphi".....is it about time?
  • dkizerdkizer Posts: 1
    I have trouble removing the wire boots off of the spark plugs on my '04 5.3L. Does anybody know a technique that would help?
  • dmbaerodmbaero Posts: 5
    Beveroll,

    In answer to your question, I seem to have finally fixed my problem. After several months of fighting numerous possibilities during which I have changed the MAF sensor, throttle position sensor, EGR valve, all four O2 sensors, catalytic converter, fuel pump module, fuel pressure regulator and fuel injectors; and also cleaned all grounds on the engine and frame, tried reseating the connector to the PCM. None of these seemed to fix it, at most it would go 3-4 weeks after some of these fixes before it would act up again. The last month or so it seemed to become very sensitive once the outside temperature was over about 90' F. I have an Auto Xray scantool and began tracking all the readings I could monitor and determined that it was not getting enough fuel. When it would lose power, what was happening was that the computer was sensing detonation from the anti-knock sensor and adjusting the timing to prevent this. I found that when it would act up, if I watched the timing on my scantool it would go from about 37' (normal) to 4' if I pressed down on the accelerator and back up to 37' when I released it. I was finally at the point that I thought it was the computer, so I wrote down all the codes, a list of all items I had replaced and when, and the trend monitoring I had done in the last several days and took it into the dealer with all this info. They started troubleshooting and found that the fuel pump was weak. I had checked the fuel pump at idle and it registered about 50-52 psi which is at the bottom of the limits, but the dealer did something I had not thought of doing. They attached the fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail with a long enough hose that they could tape it to the windshield and watch it as they drove the truck. At idle it showed about 50 psi, under normal acceleration it would still show about 50 psi, but if you really accelerated hard the fuel pressure would drop to 10-15 psi. I modified my pressure gauge with a long hose and drove it so I could see this happening. The fuel pump module I installed was one of the first items I replaced and that had been about 1 1/2 year ago. After seeing on the pressure gauge what was going on I was skeptical that this would fix it, but it did need resolved before they could do anymore troubleshooting. So I purchased another fuel pump module. This time I bought a Delphi unit, the first unit was just what the local O'Reilly looked up, an Airtex unit. I had checked on warranty for the first pump which was only a year and had asked if the Airtex unit was the best and that is how I found out about the Delphi. Anyways, I installed the new fuel pump module on July 4th and drove the vehicle to work the next couple of days with the fuel pressure gauge taped to the windshield. The fuel pressure is at 52 psi at idle, runs around 56-58 psi during cruise and goes up to 60-62 psi when accelerating very hard. The truck has not acted up since and I have even pulled a fairly heavy trailer load and it worked fine. I had noticed when it was acting up that the short and long term fuel trim values on my scantool which indicate how the computer is adjusting the open intervals for the fuel injectors were running at 25% pegged for long term and would peg at 53.9% for short term which is when the vehicle would act up. I have monitored these values since the new fuel pump and they never get above 10% on either and most times run right around 0%. I would never have thought that the fuel pump would have fixed it but it seems to have worked. Hope this helps and saves on future headaches.
  • I am having the same problems as.. mydogisalab.. 4.3L engine Z in a 1993 G-20 van. symptoms, stops like turning the switch off, will restart , sometimes have to wait ten-15 minutes. This stop and start, is totally random. replacing the module is a temporary solution, for about 500 miles and 30 or so starts. When it runs it performs perfectly.The Van has only 45,000 miles, this problem showed up about 2,000 miles back. any ideas? please.
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