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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Gasoline Engine Problems

189101113

Comments

  • etatetat Posts: 4
    did it fix your problem or does your truck message reduce engine power still come on does it doit every now and then or all the time ,what do youdo when this message comes on?
  • I had good luck with taking out 1/2qt of oil and replace it with transmission
    fluid.I would run it for 4 or 5 days then change oil.That will clean the top real good. good luck deweyii
  • My best guess is it is going to be either the crank positioning sensor, or camshaft positioning sensor. Hope this helps.
  • I did this and it worked!!! I used MAF Sensor cleaner and Throttle Body cleaner,it cost me $12.00 Thanks fatboyntroy!!!!! :)
  • i have an 04 gmc sierra. 4.3l 4x4. 5 speed manual trans. i have a cpl problems i cant figure out. first i am having what i think is water proofing issues with the distributor. it will start misfiring and lose all power. i replaced the entire distributor. i also replaced plugs wires and cap and rotor button. still does it. is this a common problem? can anyone offer suggestions please? also when i am accelerating it seems like the trans rattles and the speed odometer fluctuates. after the rattling continues for a bit the abs light comes on. i have replaced the front wheel bearing as they were starting to go bad. the trans has always rattled kinda bad but the light never came on until i replace the wheel bearings. im sure i put them in correctly. not sure what the issue is please help. thanks.
  • i have2006 silerado pick up i depend on this truck it has 133 tousand miles developed engine knock missfire in 5 7cyinders i took to dealership
    they told me low nock sensor .to find out they want to tear down to fix it
    any body help me pease I all ready sunk one tousand in it still the
    same some poepole said valve job some people said crank shaft .
    I make my liveing with this truck please advise. thank you for your resoponce in advence
  • i have a 1998 Chevrolet Silverado witht eh 5.7 liter engine. The fuel injection system acts like it's running rich. you have to press the accelerator to get it to start and it smkoes black when started, so I know it's running rich. I've replaced the coil, spark plugs, ignition wires and distributor cap to no avail. Anyone know what could be causing the problem ? Also the check engine light stays on while running.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Bad O2 sensor or clogged cat.
  • mnel92mnel92 Posts: 1
    edited November 2011
    I changed the intake gasket on my 99 including the plenum,valve cover and throttle body gaskets. I had the dreaded coolant disappearing act going on. Had a bit of trouble getting the distributor back in the correct place but finally did. I also changed the rotor, and plugs but not the wires. Truck runs great but at idle, every 6 seconds (I know because I timed it) the engine will raise the rpms by 100. Its not much I know but I would still like to get it right.It idles at about 6 to 700 rpms. Is that normal. Its a 99 with 4.3 Vortec. This problem wasnt there until I made the changes. It also almost dies when you are at a stop and try to accelerate but not all the time . I just wonder if there is something I missed. There were almost no vaccum lines on the intake. the only one I remember was to the brake booster. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks guys
  • I have a 93 Silveraldo 5.7 that wont run when the engine is cold. The engine seems to be getting too much gas and smokes, after the engine warms up it runs fine. This truck has over 200,000 miles and this is a new problem. Any ideas. Thanks
  • Hello:
    try doing a compression test wet and dry it should indicate were your miss is coming from and check your fuel pressure and fuel filter
  • dcv396dcv396 Posts: 3
    My 2001 chevy 1500 silverado has quit a hard problem to find. I hope some one can help. Ok I will do my best to explain it.

    It starts and runs fine. you can put it in drive and it will auto shift through the gears at up to 4500 RPM ok.

    the issue is when you are going up a hill or grade for more than 25 seconds under a easy steady load in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears the engine lights comes on it begine to flash and it sets a code. When this happens number four cylinder missfires and engines runs rough until you remove your foot from the gas peddle for 30 seconds or so. The engine light stops flashing and stays on and truck runs ok. You just can't go over 2000 RPM or up a hill or grade.

    this has been going on for the three years i have owned this truck and seems to have gotten worse. we have spent many ours and its been at the shop on the scanners many times. Always it says #4 cly missfire.

    check compression its great, changed and tested plugs, plug wires, coil, crank sensor, intake manifold gaskets and fuel pump. Still the same reaction.

    Oh ya my truck can plow all day long without one problem. How ever go up a hill or grade for more than 25 seconds under just a easy load and the problem starts everytime. HELP :(

    my e-mail is Hotroddv@yahoo.com com if needed.

    Thanks very much
  • dcv396dcv396 Posts: 3
    blow it up
  • jimschevjimschev Posts: 3
    Hey just curious if you resolved. reason I ask is of course i had the same. mine
    is 2001 2 wheel drive silverado. i ended up destroying my cat. Here is what i did. My dealer told me to buy some Techron and add to the tank a few times and buy gas from a top station in my case i got shell gas. Then bought a big can of gunk carb cleaner and took off the air cover and sprayed the throttle body with no less than half the can. This resolved my issue and i do this once a yr or so.
  • sorrylewsorrylew Posts: 1
    Forget the throttle position sensor... have had the same truck for 10 years... tps has been changed two times... doesn't work.... at one point I finally bought Delco cap n rotor and plugs.... problem solved for about six months..... I have also been through a new transmission and have had it rebuilt two times.

    I love this truck, but it has given me problems on and off since I have had it.... it started lurching again last week.... the transmission is gonna go any day now... probably on the way to work. I'm not spending any more money on this truck. GOOD LUCK!
  • rem308rem308 Posts: 3
    My 2008 1500 pickup started running very very rough all of a sudden. I went to the closest mechanic I could find in a very small town. We don't have a GM dealer. He told me GM is having all kinds of problems with the 2007 and 2008 1500 5.3 engines. Fuel mileage and oil consumption is the smallest of the problem.
    Luckily, he owned a Device that read codes he got from Napa. It showed the number 6 cylinder was bad and an O2 sensor.
    He put in all new plugs, new plug wires and one O2 sensor. He took it for a test drive and within two miles it was it was doing the same thing. The Stablizer and traction control light came on and also the check engine light as it had for me when it started running very very rough. In my case, it was the number 6 plug. Three different GM mechanics at three different dealerships told me that it mostly affects the plugs on the right bank, and can affect any of those plugs, one told me that he had seen it on the number 7 plug twice.
    GM is well aware, as well as their service depts since GM has issued bulletins to the dealers regarding this issue. These bulletins are not for the public.
    What happens is the fuel mgt system shuts off the fuel to the right bank and the lifters won't lift the valves for lubrication. Then, the lifter fails, the roller for example breaks off, the lifter slides inside itself, etc. as a consequence it wears the lobe off the camshaft, then destroys the camshaft. Replacing the bad lifter and camshaft will not solve the problem, maybe temporially, but not for the long term.
    In my case, my pickup went out of warranty, GM refused to fix the problem. If you are having any issue with oil consumption, bad fuel mileage, running rough; RUN DON'T WALK TO YOUR NEAREST GM DEALER ESPECIALLY IF YOU ARE UNDER THE 100,000 MILES AND DEMAND A NEW ENGINE.
    Repairing the engine does not work. I was told by one mechanic he saw an engine repaired with a new lifter, etc. and a few thousand miles later, he had the same problem and ended up buying a new engine.
    The only thing to do is get a new engine. Guess what? GM now has their fuel mgt. system on the 2013 2500's and as I understand it on the 3500's also.
    It looks like I'll be buying a ford sooner than later. We can thank California and the EPA for all this crap the manufacturers have to put on vehicles these days.
    However, it really pisses me off with service managers and a district manager lies to me about the problem.
    WHATEVER YOU DO, DO NOT LET GM REPAIR THE ENGINE. I BELIEVE, IT WILL COME BACK TO HAUNT YOU.
  • Good morning rem308,

    We see that you've worked with multiple dealerships on this concern with your engine; did you ever have a Service Request open at any point regarding this concern? Please forward that reference number (71-**********) or the last 8 digits of your VIN, along with any additional details you wish to include, to socialmedia@gm.com and we will check into this to see if there's anything further we can do.

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • Hello my name is Rafael and I have same problem with my truck except for my engine is a vortec 4.3 and I been changing distribuitor cap, rotor ,sparks plugs, fuel filter and last year brand new fuel pump, i'm not a car guy, so i don't have a lot of experience,so my question is where is located the engine temperature sensor(checking on autozone website is showing 4 different sensors not sure witch one it is)

    please any advise :confuse:
  • Rafael, try this first -- buy 4 bottles of Techron fuel additive and use accord to directions - also buy 2 cans of Gunk carb cleaner. Remove your your air cleaner cover and spray the throttle body with half the can at a time--open and close the throttle while spraying. You will have a bit of a hard time starting the truck after but don't worry it will start. Do this a few times and you will see a difference. The cap and rotor are very important too on the 4.3 liter-- so best to get the oem. Also better to use the top tier gas. You can search for the stations near you that have it.
  • jrod21jrod21 Posts: 1
    i got a 00 silverado and im haveing some problems . it drives good and shifts good to but when i punch the gas it feels like it ogs down . but this only happens when i punch the gass
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    When was the last time the throttle body/plate cleaned? The '00 rado was known for a sticking plate.
  • I know this is an old thread but I'm having same problem with the same truck wandering if you ever solve the problem thanks
  • i have a 2001 silverado 4.3 liter and techron fuel additive and throttle body cleaning with gunk took away the random misfires. also very important to use an oem cap and rotor. I have had to replace my fuel pump, ox. sensor before the cat- and now intake manifold gasket -- these are common issues with these trucks. also common is need to replace the fuel injector spider. Another is the issue with the distributor developing moisture. worst thing you can do is to start replacing everything on the engine. best to start with the fuel injector cleaner and techron is what gm recommends. important to clean up that throttle body too. if you let it go too long your cat will fail. mine has 164k miles and i think it runs great.
  • rem308 I feel your PAIN!! I have a 2007 silverado 1500 LT with only 86,000 miles on it. Pulled into my garage saturday and the engine started "ticking" really loud. Took it to a reputable repair center. they disassembled the engine down to the lifters on the drivers side where the noise was and found (1) lifter roller had gouges in it and the cam was scarred. I had an extended warranty that ran out 1-11-13. The Chevy dealer where i purchased the truck & warranty said "Sorry, we can't help you." REALLY???????!!!!!!! I paid alot of money for this truck and its only 8 days out of warranty and all they say is "Sorry". I too have had it with GM. The old saying must really be true...."Once they get your money they are thru with you" Been a GM man for along time. Looks like there is a Ford in my future.
  • ms1378ms1378 Posts: 7
    Got the same problem on my 2001 2500. Have gotten conflicting answers and before I spend 800.00-950.00 to replace my rear main I would like to hear what other people have done. Please reply back with any info. Thank You.
  • ms1378ms1378 Posts: 7
    I own a 2001 2500 4x4 6.0. While just tooling down the road the ABS light will flash on. When I turn off the motor the warning clears. The ABS waring is never consisitant, meaning that I can be driving rough caliche roads and it never comes on but yet on smooth roadways it will. I was told that my front hubs need to be replaced. But before any money is spent I wanted to know if anyone else has had this problem and am curious if its not the actual ABS sensor were it connects into the hub or the ABS modulator?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,076
    We would be happy to check into this further with you, foxman55. Please contact us via email at socialmedia@gm.com with more details (including your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN, and a summary of the situation so far).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
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