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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Gasoline Engine Problems

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  • Hello my name is Rafael and I have same problem with my truck except for my engine is a vortec 4.3 and I been changing distribuitor cap, rotor ,sparks plugs, fuel filter and last year brand new fuel pump, i'm not a car guy, so i don't have a lot of experience,so my question is where is located the engine temperature sensor(checking on autozone website is showing 4 different sensors not sure witch one it is)

    please any advise :confuse:
  • Rafael, try this first -- buy 4 bottles of Techron fuel additive and use accord to directions - also buy 2 cans of Gunk carb cleaner. Remove your your air cleaner cover and spray the throttle body with half the can at a time--open and close the throttle while spraying. You will have a bit of a hard time starting the truck after but don't worry it will start. Do this a few times and you will see a difference. The cap and rotor are very important too on the 4.3 liter-- so best to get the oem. Also better to use the top tier gas. You can search for the stations near you that have it.
  • jrod21jrod21 Posts: 1
    i got a 00 silverado and im haveing some problems . it drives good and shifts good to but when i punch the gas it feels like it ogs down . but this only happens when i punch the gass
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    When was the last time the throttle body/plate cleaned? The '00 rado was known for a sticking plate.
  • I know this is an old thread but I'm having same problem with the same truck wandering if you ever solve the problem thanks
  • i have a 2001 silverado 4.3 liter and techron fuel additive and throttle body cleaning with gunk took away the random misfires. also very important to use an oem cap and rotor. I have had to replace my fuel pump, ox. sensor before the cat- and now intake manifold gasket -- these are common issues with these trucks. also common is need to replace the fuel injector spider. Another is the issue with the distributor developing moisture. worst thing you can do is to start replacing everything on the engine. best to start with the fuel injector cleaner and techron is what gm recommends. important to clean up that throttle body too. if you let it go too long your cat will fail. mine has 164k miles and i think it runs great.
  • rem308 I feel your PAIN!! I have a 2007 silverado 1500 LT with only 86,000 miles on it. Pulled into my garage saturday and the engine started "ticking" really loud. Took it to a reputable repair center. they disassembled the engine down to the lifters on the drivers side where the noise was and found (1) lifter roller had gouges in it and the cam was scarred. I had an extended warranty that ran out 1-11-13. The Chevy dealer where i purchased the truck & warranty said "Sorry, we can't help you." REALLY???????!!!!!!! I paid alot of money for this truck and its only 8 days out of warranty and all they say is "Sorry". I too have had it with GM. The old saying must really be true...."Once they get your money they are thru with you" Been a GM man for along time. Looks like there is a Ford in my future.
  • ms1378ms1378 Posts: 7
    Got the same problem on my 2001 2500. Have gotten conflicting answers and before I spend 800.00-950.00 to replace my rear main I would like to hear what other people have done. Please reply back with any info. Thank You.
  • ms1378ms1378 Posts: 7
    I own a 2001 2500 4x4 6.0. While just tooling down the road the ABS light will flash on. When I turn off the motor the warning clears. The ABS waring is never consisitant, meaning that I can be driving rough caliche roads and it never comes on but yet on smooth roadways it will. I was told that my front hubs need to be replaced. But before any money is spent I wanted to know if anyone else has had this problem and am curious if its not the actual ABS sensor were it connects into the hub or the ABS modulator?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,005
    We would be happy to check into this further with you, foxman55. Please contact us via email at socialmedia@gm.com with more details (including your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN, and a summary of the situation so far).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    I have seen this posted elsewhere and one of the issue wsas a bad "ground" from the body of the vehcile to the frame. It seems on some years and models the ground becomes loose somehow.
  • Thank you chuck1. I will have that checked out.
  • oldguy50oldguy50 Posts: 1
    2008 GMC Sierra SLE I had a minor accident... all other electronics work in dash except the fuel gauge and truck will not start...is there a reset process I could try? For instance an emergency shut down....thanks for your help
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    Look in your owners manual. The fuel pump is programed to shut down if the shock from the accident is severe enough. There is a way to reset it, check your manual.
  • I've been having a stall no start problem last month , I knew my fuel pump was going due to the high noise so I replaced it with a 60$ pump/unit i found online. I had to wire it directly because it was a direct fit electrically .Everything went smooth until I drove the truck a week later on a cold snowy day. Truck stalled 30 seconds into it running and would not start , I , in the snow started to look for answers . I checked for spark ,which was good and I heard the fuel pump running as I turned the key , also heard the click on the relay in the fuse box. I was stumped and wondered WTF .I had this truck for 15 yrs. So I tried to get the fuel pressure gage screwed on but the snow was blowing and I couldn't screw on the connecter correctly . I poured some gas into the carb and turned the key , I wanted to see if it would at least fired a few cylinders to check crank sensor or distributor components . Well the engine didn't only fire a few cylinder but started right up . It ran perfectly smooth without a miss.....Now I was Pissed because I didn't trust it at all to get me anywhere.
    I started to ask questions and look for info on the Net of similar issues. So this is what I did. 1 . got the truck into my garage , removed the air cleaner , installed the pressure gage correctly , tested the pump ( 59 lbs and 62 lbs when fuel regulator kicked in on acceleration.
    I pulled the truck outside with the fuel gage left on and waited for a cold day to come. 3 days later as I started the truck and started to move it , it stalled and wouldn't start . I checked the fuel gauge pressure and it read 40lbs, I thought great my fuel pump is a cheap one that don't like cold weather ..lol but before I blamed it on the pump I remember a old time mechanic tell me to test the grounds, so I got out the jumper cables and clamped on end to the lift lug on the motor and the other to the frame ,tested the pressure with the key turned and got 59lbs reading , started the truck which ran great until I removed the clamp , which came with a spark , and noticing the pressure gauge go down slowly to 40 as it stalled quickly . I now have a direction which I found the ribbon ground behind the motor crumbling to dust . I knew the other ground to the battery to alternator bracket was secure and also the ground to the inside fender wall . I replaced the ribbon ground with a heavy braided wire and my truck runs better then ever before . I wouldn't believe that many grounds would make the difference . Also I know of the distributor cap has to be replaced every yr before winter or it misses on damp cold days until it is warmed up. I've been doing this for past 8 yrs .
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