Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Gasoline Engine Problems

1356720

Comments

  • We are experiencing the same problem on our 2001 Silverado. We took it to the auto shop and they said the injectors were bad due to sludge and had to be replaced. They replaced them but it did not fix anything. We had already changed the fuel filter, spark plugs ect. What did you find out about your truck?
  • How hard is it to replace the 2 drive belts on the 5.3? Any help on the procedure, like taking the shroud off or what size wrench or anything else I should know? Thanks
  • This is getting to be a common problem with the 5.3L and 6.0L GM engines. I went to Auto Zone to check my engine light, they said MAF sensor. I replaced it, but no change. Auto Zone agreed to let me return the MAF sensor (very nice folks down there) and I was on my way to the dealer. Dealer ran diagnostics check, and found intake gasket to be leaking. ~$350 to replace on 5.3L. Don't waste your money trying a bunch of parts, go right to a Chevy dealer's service department to fix it right the first time.
  • Background:
    2000 GMC Silverado extcb 4x4 5.3l 120,000km

    Problem:
    I have had a major (super loud) howl/squeal coming from the belt area of my truck. It happens at idle and varies with throttle position. It used to only happen when it was cold back in November and then go away as the truck warmed up but now it is persistent every time I start it and doesn't go away. I don't know if it is "cold" dependent or if the problem has just finally come to a head as we haven't had a day over -10 for quite sometime for me to check to see if the sound goes away once it warms up.

    Attempted fixes:
    I started it one cold morning and let it howl. I oulled off the splash gaurd and proceded to hit all the pulley bearings I could see with kroil to see if I could find the problem bearing or pulley. No dice, it didnt stop.

    Its impossible to tell where the sound is coming from with the naked ear with all the noise of a running motor. I havent taken the belt off and run the truck for a bit to see if if that stops the noise.

    Side note:
    The alternator went south on me about a month ago so I replaced it and the battery and belt. I figured I might as well when I was under the hood anyways. All is well with the charging system now, so I think this should eliminate the alternator and the belt from the equation.

    Any ideas???

    I'm going to get a mechanics stethoscope and try to pinpoint the problem. What should I be listening for and where should I be listening with the probe of the stethoscope????

    Waterpump/pulletys/AC pulleys etc...???
  • We have the same issue. We have a 2001 Silverado that started "not starting" right after we bought it brand new from the dealer. Will do it every once in a while, today it did it when I tried to go to work and then when I tried to Leave work at the end of the day. That was a first. Two times in one day. Have you had any luck figuring out what the problem is? I have taken it to the dealer and they can't find anything wrong with it? Frustrated and looking at buying a Ram.
  • markw8markw8 Posts: 25
    My 2000 siverado 2500 would crank at times and not start. The dealer changed the ign. switch,I think. It had something to do with the security light. mark.
  • we have a 99 gmc sierra 1500 and we have been told that the oil leaking from the area of the rear main seal may not be that at all. they said it maybe the the part above the oil filter that has 2 o-rings that maybe worn. has anybody heard of this. please help out because that would be better for us money wise.
  • don68don68 Posts: 2
    I am having a problem starting my 2000 chevy silverado it starts fine when it is cold but I seem to have a harder time getting it to start after it has set for a couple of hours.it does start but it takes a few seconds with the key turned over I have already replaced the fuel filter,spark plugs, and cleaned the throttle body and dont know what else it could be?any help would be appreciated thanks don.
  • 91 gmc k2500 4wd, 5.7L, oil cooler adapter leaks at mount of block, gaskets were gone, replaced with new set, not sure how they go though for sure, drove 12 miles everything was fine, next morning 5 miles later, blew again in same spot, need to know what is going on, why, and how to install gaskets correctly, no one around here can say for sure, no money for the shop. thanks
  • jreaganjreagan Posts: 285
    I had the same problem on my 2000 GMC Sierra a few years ago. It was the fuel pressure regulator. A really simple fix. It is located near the top of the engine on the fuel rail. I recommend buying it at your local dealer and installing it yourself. They will (they did for me anyway) show you where it goes and how to relieve the fuel pressure in the system.
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    I would guess at either a warped cooler adapter or incorrect torque when tightening.
  • nelson1nelson1 Posts: 40
    I am having a semilar starting problem with my 2000 Silverado 1500. If I turn the key to on position, and then off again, and then on again, it will usually kick off right away. If I just turn the key directly to the start position, it will usually set there and turn the starter, and will not start for a few seconds of turning the starter. Then, when it starts, it seems to be choked for a few seconds, and runs rough, before it smooths out. Very aggravating. Haven't decided what to do, yet.
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    GUYS.........Sure sounds like the fuel pressure regulator
    to me also. Easy DIY to check.
    1- Locate the FPR
    2- Start engine .let run. Turn off engine.
    Pull vacuum line off nipple on FPR If wet with fuel (gas)
    replace !!!!!!!!!!

    More info at http://www.gm-trucks.com
  • My buddy has the same truck... 2000 gmc Z71 4x4 200 km. He has the same symptoms as your truck. I am sure that it is a noisy power steering pump. You can feel vibrating when running and touching the power steering pump cap. You can try to drain the oil with a turkey baster or large syringe and replace with a synthetic fluid and a additive.
  • If the noise is coming from the belt friction. A simple test is to spray water on the belt while it is running. If the problem is belt friction, the noise will stop immediately!

    Ed
Sign In or Register to comment.