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Ford Ranger Lighting and Electrical Problems



  • Hi .. I'm Todd and i have the same problem with my locks. Jiggling them is very aggravating. It seems to do it more when it is cold outside. Please tell me that you have found a way to fix your problem, because I'm really tired of dealing with the same problem as well. Please reply. Thanx. -Todd
  • I had the same problem on my 2000, and I used liquid wrench on it, and fixed my problem. Going about a year now with no problems.
  • 2003 Ford Ranger 4x4, 4.0 xlt. When I hit my high beam, both headlights go out. Runs fine on low beams. I checked bulbs and replaced multi switch on steering column, $79 for the new part. Did not fix the problem. Any ideas out there?
  • I would check fuse 1.38 and 1.42, which will be fuse #38 and 42 in the Battery Junction Box. The way the system is set up there is only one fuse for low beams, but both headlights have a fuse for highbeams. If that is not the problem, you might have to take it to a technician that has an IDS or WDS system so that they can run diagnostics on the DRL module. The reason I say that is because the power for high beams is routed through the DRL module. How bout your flash to pass? Do they work ok? Can you hit the FTP and everything stays on? If not I would definitely suspect the DRL module has a problem. Here is your wiring diagram. Just right click and click on save as, then you can print.
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  • Checked for high beam fuses under hood and in cab, but nothing for high beams. I'll pull all fuses today and check, in cab and under hood. When I am running with low beams then push down, no high beams and the low beams go off. When I pull back to low beams, they go back on. When I pull up on flash, low beams stay on, and brights do not come on. Checked all fuses, in cab and under hood. One out, in cab, a 20amp for brake pedal position switch. One in wrong position under hood, moved from 13 to 17, auxillary fan. 13 should be empty. Thanks
  • I need to correct myself. I was extremely tired when I posted that. The fuses in the batter junction box would only effect low beams. So if you have checked (for sure) fuse 33 in the fuse panel inside the cab, and it was good, then I would be hunting down the DRL module. Either that or if you have fog lights that module might be causing the problem as well. Does your high beam indicator light on the dash?

    Here is a quick check to make sure you dont have any corrosion or loose connection issues on the signal wire to the DRL module. Unplug your DRL module and the Fog lamp relay. DRL module is located down by the dr. fog lamp (under the drivers side head light) attached to body. Probably looks like a relay. The fog lamp relay is located in the battery junction box (see underside of lid for list of contents). See if the high beams come on.

    If they come on skip next section and go to bottom.

    If they dont illuminate, then get an 1156 or 1157 bulb and start tracing back through the wiring system that left to find where you last have power. The next connection or the wire between the point you last checked and the one where you found power will be your problem area. My personal favorite is to overlay the wire (splice in a new wire through the whole length) and see if the lights work then, before you plug the relay and module back in.

    If they come on, plug one thing at a time back in till they quit working. The piece that you plug back in that makes them quit is your problem child. Replace that part. If it is the DRL module, verify no water in the wiring, and add more dielectric grease to the front and backside of the connector to prevent future concerns.

    Think you can do this?
  • Thank you thank you. I tried another 15amp fuse in 33 in the cab and guess, what. It worked. Appreciate your help. Bob
  • Can someone please tell me where the heck the Vehicle Speed Sensor is located? I've looked on both sides of the tranny and there are two wire clusters coming out of the right side if you are looking at the Ranger from the front. Is this the right spot? The harness does not look the same!
  • I just had my camper shell from my 94 Ranger installed on my 06 Ranger and I can't figure out how to wire the brake light since I don't have a separate brake wire from the turn signal.

    Anyone know how to get this to work without blinking when the turn signal is on?
  • HI, I have a 96 for ranger and recently my gauge lights and tail running lights stopped working. I'm not to sure if they are realated or not but I checked the fuses and they are fine. My brake, reverse, and signal lights however DO work. When I switch the light knob on my dash board my headlights come on but the tail running lights and guage lights don't come on.
    Any help would be great. Thanks
  • I have a 98 ranger 4x4 when I turn off the ignition the engine shuts off but then I hear a series of clicks coming from behind the dashboard and the radio and other electronic items stay on and drain battery. can anyone please help!
  • sceleysceley Posts: 3
    I have a 96 ford ranger, 4 cyl., standard 5 sp., 2 wd. My State requires an annual I/M safety inspection. Besides the standard checks of lights, brakes, etc.. they run an emissions test. will not allow the test without the "check engine light" working. checked instrustment cluster bulbs, ok. All fuses ,ok. circuit board of instrustment panel. ok. no voltage present when keys is turned on at the bulb. self diagnoistic shows "Bank 1 burning Lean." any advice other than a PRO. thank you.
  • fordtechfordtech Posts: 34
    Why you runnin a self diagnostic?? Get an OBD II scanner and get the code... LOL Otherwise:

    Sounds like you got a vacuum leak or exhaust leak to me, but get me a CODE to cross reference..

    The vacuum leak would allow excess air into the combustion chamber effectively making the mixture lean..

    An exhaust leak would allow air into the exhaust and thus the O2 sensor would read lean as there is too much oxygen in the exhaust stream..

    Ford Tech
  • sceleysceley Posts: 3
    This would cause the check engine light to not light??? I though the check engine light was to light with an emission problem. however thank you very much for your advice, i will investigate for those problems. sceley
  • fordtechfordtech Posts: 34
    Only reason I said to get the code is cause you said you got a self diagnostic of "Bank 1 Lean"... OBD II doesnt do self diagnostics flashed out on the CEL. The CEL comes on only when there is a problem. On OBD II vehicles, that is all it does, is just come on, it wont flash a code or do any of that. You need a scan tool to do that.

    Back to why the CEL doesnt work..

    First, the PCM grounds that circuit (which is pin 2 at the PCM) to turn on the bulb. The fuse for the cluster #11 in the fuse panel (7.5A) is what provides the power to that light.
    However it also provides power for your oil pressure gauge, charge gauge, and Tachometer. If those things are working, then you have a problem with your printed circuit on the back of your cluster. You already stated you dont have 12v to that bulb during initial key on.

    Let me know if the Charge, Tach, and Oil Pressure gauges are working. If they are, you need a new pinted circuit..

    Ford Tech
  • sceleysceley Posts: 3
    Yes the oil pressure gauge and charging gauge as well as the rest of the instrustment gauges and lights are working correctly. I am an Electrician by trade so i am familiar with circuity. i checked the circuit boards physical condition, scratches broken circuits or burnt areas. all look and test good for continuity. i do not have a tachometer. there is a small plug in circuit board that i removed and cleaned connections.
  • fordtechfordtech Posts: 34
    The only reason I was concerned with the Charge and oil pressure gauges is because they are powered by the same fuse as the CEL.

    So basically what you have told me is that there is no possible way it can be any of the following:

    -Printed Circuit
    -Bulb for CEL
    -Power to the bulb for CEL

    Guess what is left in the equation.. The PCM, because it supplies the ground for the CEL. I would see if you can supply a seperate ground for that light during the KOEO sequence.. Thats key on, engine off. Power cycle the ignition like you are goin to start the truck, with your ground attached to the ground for that bulb.. If it lights up with the extra ground supplied, then check to see if you have power on the ground side of that bulb.. It should be dead during the power cycle.. If its not, fix the short to power.. If it is dead, its probably a new PCM for you..
  • impossible to drive in low the switch stays lit in4x4 low even when its moved to 2high or 4high???
  • btrogersbtrogers Posts: 4
    My tach. will read zero and my truck starts to run bad. I wiggle the fuse box around (under the hood) and it seems to kick back up. There are 2 plugs (sensors) attached to the box. I wiggle just the wire and it does the same thing. Does anyone have any idea what is going on here? :sick:
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