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Comments
So 20K with no rotor issues and practically no wear is a pretty good sign!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
What is the problem with these brakes? The noise I am hearing (and have heard for a long time) is a grinding and also what sounds like air bubbles running through a tube.
My 2006 Accord 4 cylinder required new rear brakes at 47000 unlike my 98 Camry which went over 80000 miles. This is a HONDA DESIGN FLAW in which soft brakes have been put on the rear and are always engaged with brake use. Friends had theirs replaced at 33,000 (my driving is 80% highway) and the Hansel Honda dealer in Santa Rosa California confirmed the design flaw and stated most go only 25000 miles.
HONDA SHOULD REPLACE THESE BRAKES FOR FREE OR AT LEAST PAY FOR THE PARTS. THIS IS INTOLERABLE. THIS IS MY FIRST AND PROBABLY ACCORD. I don't have time for expensive maintenance or frequent repairs; otherwise I would buy a German car to visit the dealership frequently.
I hope you were not serious saying that. Most (if not all) of us can not produce our own oil so I guess we shouldn't complain about the high gas prices
I'd like to think I can raise cane over someone over-charging to do this service. If one reputable shop will do it for $475 (the same shop who fixed my car after getting hit on I-59 last year), including water pump, the dealer should be ashamed to ask $850. That is exactly what has happened with me. Guess who'll be doing my timing belt?
I've never really experienced EBD before today, and from now on I'll be driving this car in the rain, not my old LX with no ABS, which would have crashed in the same circumstances.
I'm all too familiar with the noise a warning tab makes but with some much life left in them, I can't imagine what else might make such a noise... Would a bad bearing make that "scratching" noise?
I'm going to go thru with replacing the pads but wonder if anyone has ever experienced anything like this?
Anyone?
Thanks
Mrbill
Note: Check the callipers for corrosion, and make sure the pins are well lubricated. This will hopefully prevent uneven wear (one pad wearing faster than the other).
Always try, even if you don't succeed. In answer to your first question; yes, it sounds like the brake rotors are warped.
But heck, if they advertise they do a 110 point inspection, then it's worth it to complain a little and see if they'll put a new set of rotors on for you. However, you'd never catch warped rotors with a 'visual' 110 point inspection.
Hopefully, the rotors will just need turned. What kind of bill should I expect on average??
I honestly do not remember what turning the rotors cost me, but I know it wasn't out-of-this world.
You cut the rotors, and they are thinner,. Assuming they can get them smooth and straight again, they will now warp in the future easier under heavy braking conditions. You also don't know at all what was done to them in the past.
My right rear brake started to squeal. It is intermittent and not consistent. It happens while driving without pressing the brakes and sometimes becomes more pronounced when applying the brakes after squeal begins.
A few posts back I saw recommendations to inspect the dust shield for bends or debris stuck in them. I will be doing this soon. Any other recommendations.
Also, has anyone had a personal experience with any aftermarket (non O.E.M.) rotors and pads? I am fine investing in a higher quality product if one is out there. I am not unhappy with the factory brakes just curious if better brakes are out there which are reasonable.
Thanks guys, look forward to hearing everyone's advice/opinions.
PS ~ If I do not get much response in the next few days I will be re-posting this in the General Maintenance forum as well.
Tirerack.com has reviews for aftermarket pads and rotors. You might want to check that out.
I have looked at Tire.Rack for a number of different things. I just wanted some personal, anecdotal experiences from anyone who had success. I am sure TireRack makes money off of the parts they sell so they would obviously speak well of them.
Any way, thanks for the advice.
What was replaced? Did the dealership indicate that there was a problem? My 03 V6 Sedan (heavy) rear brakes at least lasted until 47k miles. That was mostly around town, with a lot of stop and go. There is either something wrong with your brakes, or you are driving around with your foot on the brake pedal. Everyone claims they don't abuse their brakes, but I see people on the road in front of me all the time. They are accelerating, and the brake lights are on. That will wear them out quick, if not overheat them causing damage. :sick:
Not saying you do this, but there has to be a reason for the brakes to go at 11,800 miles. :confuse:
So I agree there has to be a reason, and the fact that many, many folks have raised complaints about rear brakes in Hondas leads me to suspect a problem in the manufacture.
It turned out to be just 1 pad (inner rear) that was shot. In fact, when I alled a local tire/brake place for a quote, he asked if it was that particular pad. The outer pad (and I think the left side) were still plenty meaty.
He said the problem was a sticky caliper (due to a poor design). Basically that pad does not release properly, and drags slightly on the rotor, wearing it out.
No guarantee it doesn't happen again, but he said they lube it up extra good!
Probably also explains why some people get no life, and others get plenty, out of the rears, even though fronts seem to be pretty consistant.
Not a bad idea to have them checked each rotation, and spend a few bucks to have the brake assembly lube every so often.
Also, make sure they check inner and outer pad depth. The wear report from the dealer (part of the oil change inspection report) said iI had a lot of meat left, but I think they only checked the outer pad (that they coulds see with the wheel on).
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Exactly, you can't really tell how much the inner pad has left without taking the bolt out, and pivoting the calliper up, so you can see the entire inner pad. I tried my best to see the inner pad through that tiny window in the calliper, and it was impossible (for me at least). Just looking at the outer pad, doesn't tell you anything. Someone who does brakes for a living should know that.
Left side was fine, and the outer right pad was fine, but the inner right pad was shot. So, new pads all around!
the dude at the tire store, when I called for a price, asked if it was that exact pad (without seeing the car). Known defect IMO.
He said the problem was the capiper hanging up (drying out and sticking I think). Not much you can do, other than lube it up good, and probably have it greased (if possible) once in a while.
certainly explains why some people need rear pads early, and others get plenty of life.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I am in the process of trying to to get in contact with Honda Canada's customer relations.( 1-888-946-6329 ) :mad:
Honda & Toyota can not rest on their past history of reliability. If I have to replace the rear pad every 30,000 miles or so, it will steer me to another car. This is the kind of stuff that made go away from Chevy!
Yes brakes are a wear and tear item, however, all cars with rear disk brakes are not having this problem, must be a design flaw :sick:
Is it possible to install disc brakes on the rear of a 92 Honda Accord 4 dr. sendan LX.
What type of parts would I need and how difficult is it to install.
My car has drum brakes on the rear. Disc on the front.
Thanks,
94shadow :confuse: