Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Dodge Dakota Transmission Problems

1212224262734

Comments

  • Hi I have a 2004 Dakota quad cab with a 4.7L auto,2wd with 102,ooo km's`I have had one problem for about 6 months with the plug connected to the blower motor resister that I have replaced once and now it's heating up and needs replaced again. The reason I'm telling of this problem is because it may be related to the other problems that have happened in the last 2 days??
    I first started noticing a couple of days ago when starting the truck it was turning over slower then normal at about the same time I noticed that my auto trans was acting strange,once in a while as I left a red light it would almost feel like it was in neutral and as the RPM's picked up a bit the tranny would hit and go,but this only happened a couple of times.
    This morning I went to start the truck and the battery was dead,pulled off the connections and cleaned them and then jumped started it and it started right up but would not idol. If I kept the rpm's up it would run fine. let it idol and it died right away.
    I managed to 2 foot it for a 15 min drive and again the trans acted up in the same way. I kept my eye on the battery meter and it didn't seem to be over to the charge side as I expected it to be. Drove it home and now warm it would idol but seemed low and on the verge of stalling. Shut the truck off and tried to start it and still dead battery. BTW the trans fluid is right up and looks and smells good. Also there is NO "service engine" or "check engine" light on.I also think it's the original battery in the truck. Thanks for any help you may be able to give me.
  • I talked to a transmission shop that said a band change or clutch repair would be a soft repair of $2000. Is that right?
  • Hi all! I have a 1993 Dakota with about 143,000 miles. It has been great until very recently when it started not shifting into a higher gear on the highway. I noticed this first when I would take my foot off the gas and the truck would lunge forward because it was like downshifting a manual shift. I thought it might be low on fluid (stick shows halfway into "XXXX" area), so I added a half quart. Stick still shows the same. Now a few days later it's getting worse. Hard shifting, no shifting, etc. If you put it in drive and let it idle in a parking lot where you can let it run free, the truck rolls and pauses, rolls and pauses, almost like pressure building up and back down. Last night coming home it wouldn't shift down out of high gear so that I'm going 10 mph in high gear and the whole truck is shaking. Today on the way to work I was able to control it by manually moving the shifter from D to 2 and vice-versa so that it would move in and out of gears to get me here. I read a LOT of this forum today and thought about the throttle sensor, so during lunch I went out and worked the gas pedal a lot and started the truck and it is doing the same thing. Oh, and as of last night there is also a new noise - like a Rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr which will be there and then go away. The noise seems to be coming from the transmission. The fact that it's acting so odd even while just idling in drive makes me think it is a fluid issue but it seems to have enough fluid.
  • Hello Dusty: Read the threads. Have No reverse. Asking for advice for right steps to take before I just replace the tranny: ... Just bought Dak ‘01 3.9 auto with 119k. Tran oil not pink pink, but kind of brown brown. No stink, no burn. Since the oil was dirty, I imagine there’s been deferred maint… Zero on code reader. Shifter Recall not done yet. One day last week I parked in a parking lot, came back, and on reverse I heard a rattle/grinding noise for a few seconds and I put it in park to make it go away. So Later that night, I drove home. Rechecked code: Zero. Tried reverse. Now a whirring noise. Has very slight feel of engagement. There’s a little trouble getting it into the Park from Reverse so that the column shows park with the light on,.... but it will get there. Will warm engine and check tranny level next. Will check cooling lines. Dodge service reluctant to work on column. So… next step, somehow get the right tranny fluid, replace. By the way, should I get the dodge atf4 or the kragen atf4. And Next step? Get out and rock the car from side to side a bit? Yesterday, I got a slight response. I got the reverse to engage, there's always the slight whirring sound, and it moved very slightly. Still have not changed the tranny transmission. What should I be looking for when I remove the tranny pan? shavings? a broken band?

    Everything else in drive works fine. Beautifully in such a fine, fine truck. (My first v6 the size of a v8)

    Ah. Sounds like the shift cable is binding (46RE) or you have a bad Transmission Range Sensor (mounted on the side of the transmission).

    Have someone fix:

    *Gear selector out of adjustment

    * Rear band loose (adjustment)

    * Throttlebody malfunction (dirty or worn)

    * Broken or severely worn rear band

    *Defective or inoperative front clutch

    *Overdrive thrust bearing failure

    Check the shift cable (46RE) Test, if not

    Check the transmission Throttle Cable. If sticking it can cause most of your issues. If not

    Transmission Range Sensor (mounted on the side of the transmission). But wouldn't this show up on the Reader with code????

    If not...it's up to the mechanic to make a determination, and I don't want to be bamboozled: In order of checking.

    * Rear band loose (adjustment) (Don't they do that when they change the tranny oil?) What if someone used the wrong oil. how can I tell??? Do I trash the whole thing??? or do a soft rebuild)

    * Throttlebody malfunction (dirty or worn)

    * Broken or severely worn rear band

    *Defective or inoperative front clutch

    *Overdrive thrust bearing failure

    Linkage out of adjustment

    *inoperative or worn front clutch

    *Rear band misadjusted

    *Worn or broken overdrive thrust bearing

    *Broken direct clutch spring"

    Thanks so much for your advice.
  • I recently acquired a 97 Dakota 3.9/auto overdrive. It acts like it is in 2nd or 3rd gear starting off and never shifts. I am doing a filter/fluid change on sat. and adjust everything according to the service manual.Any other ideas? I got the truck from a family member and he says it hasnt shifted in a long time. :sick:
  • I just bought a 2003 DAK with a 3.9 auto tranny. It was not fully engaging at take off and felt like it was in 2nd gear. Also it wouldn't back shift when I set the pedal to the floor. When I manually ran it through the gears it would hit all of them, but wouldn't do it on its own. I had to replace the governor pressure switch and governor switch. That and a fluid/filter change fixed it. Switches were $250 for the pair.
  • No manual shifts either
  • My truck started dropping out of overdrive. I could pull over and turn the key off and on and the truck would run fine for days.

    Now it is more frequent and sometimes doesn't shift out of third.

    codes are P0700 and P1776

    Any ideas?
  • I have a '98 dakota with a v-6 and auto trans. The "ABS" and red dash "Brake" lights are on and the speedo doesn't work until 20 mph. I replaced the trans speed sensor which fixed a "no shift until 20 mph" problem which I believe was coincedental. I'm not sure what the relationship is there, but the speedo is still inop until 20 mph and the lights are on. I was thinking that a wheel speed sensor could be the problem, but I'm not sure how it would affect the speedo! Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  • Well i got a 99 dodge Dakota 4x4 extended cab, 4 speed auto, and when i take off from a stop or just driving slow its stays in 1, or 2nd gear till real high rpm's like 3500 4 grand, and then it smacks into gear ( like its got a performance valve body installed)
    any ides?
    oh i got 95,000 miles and i bought it from a dealer 1 month ago.
    called him up and as you would think he would say... "not his problem"
    so being that i just spent $4,300 on this truck i have no more money and I'm hoping its something just out of adjustment... :sick:

    oh NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON...EITHER!
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Nothing specific, but if it's any consolation, my 2005 does a similar thing. It only does it on occasion when the truck is first started up and driving out of our court (maybe 100 yards). After that it's fine. Has done this from day 1.
  • I got the Haynes manule yesterday and read through it and it showed there were several resons for it to do this... the TV cable miss aligned, trans. filter/ fluid conditions, and the adjustments of the bands. Well since I need to drop the trans pan to adjust the bands screws by specifications of the book i can change out the fluid and filter then also... Or should i just take it to the dealer?
    I just got this truck about a month ago maybe put 400 miles on it tops!
    I got a 3 month 4500 mile C.A.R.S. warranty from the used car dealer with the purchase of my truck, but im not sure how the cars warranty works... any suggestions?
  • Hooked up a code reader,got the code P0753 D1 shift solenoid A Electrical generic1/1. Any ideas :sick:
  • I realize this post is from 06 but thought it would be worth a shot. Do you still have the online transmission manual available? I have a 97 dak that is driving me nuts.
  • I was just reading up on this issue for my own reasons and, depending on your transmission, the TV cable to the transmission could be out of adjustment. Apparently if there is too much slack, the truck will shift late and hard, if it is too tight, it will shift early and my slip. It was fairly easy to adjust and the procedure is in a Haines manual. It's worth a try before replacing the tranny.
  • OK here is the total story. My brother in law bought the truck new in 97 and drove it until 2007. He then gave it to his dad/younger brother. He said it didnt shift right then. About 3 months ago I acquired it after it sat for about a year with a blown head gasket from overheating. I replaced the heads and now I have a truck that will not shift auto or manual. The only code I get is in the post above. Anybody care to make a guess?
  • I changed the transmission relay next to the battery and now my truck has all its gears and shifts perfect. Thanks for all the help!
  • Found similar issues on the forum but never an answer. My 5.9L auto will not shift out of 1st until around 4500RPM and only after I let off the gas. I tried replacing the transmission speed sensor after reading the thread but to no avail. Should I be looking at the TPS?

    once it shifts it is fine for all other gears no issues. Shifts to R, P and N fine. Any thoughts?
  • Please check the kick-down lever. I have a 98 4x4 and the return spring on the kick-down lever on mine was horribly weak. It would require you to run up the RPMs before it would shift and then would hit like a ton of bricks. The lever is on the driver's side, up by the front. You can also follow the cable that comes from the throttle body down to the tranny. After tightening up the spring mine shifts 100% better.
  • I have a 2001 Dakota, 4.7 auto. Recently we started having trouble getting the trans to come out of park. It's not torque locked, just won't shift out of park. Any ideas why it would do this?

    Thanks
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Nothing specific, but doesn't the ignition switch also lock the tranny shift lever, so that you cannot shift out of park when the ignition switch is in the off/locked position? Maybe your problem is with the ignition switch?
  • Take the boot off of the shifter and grease with lithium grease. You will not have the problem again. Did it on my 2002 Dakota Sport. I found the resolution on Edmunds before. Thank god because I was just getting ready to take it to a dealer. Who knows how much that would have cost. This happened when it got really cold and the only way it would come out by itself was by warming the car up with the heat on. It usually took about a half an hour to release. Good Luck!
  • thaedthaed Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Dakota auto 5.2l magnum v8 that was running fine all summer and has recently started to idle around 400-600 rpms when warm. Recently i was about to leave town and around 45 mph it made a nasty clunk sound, so i stopped and headed back home. Now when i am at a stop light it will rev up and down 200-400 rpms each jump with my foot on the brake. Anything would be helpful, i have checked all the fluids and they are fine.
  • Hi, I'm new here. Hope someone has an idea about my problem.

    I have an '05 Dakota 2WD - 4.7L. When I am braking i get a pulsation as if I am gently pumping the brakes. There is no sensation in the brake pedal but feels like a brake problem. I have changed the front rotors and the pulsation is still there. Could it be the rear drums even though there is no pulsation in the pedal?

    Also I have a delay in shifting from park to any gear . I have to wait about 20 seconds until it decides it wants to go into gear. I have only noticed this since the cooler weather has set in (Sept or so).

    Any thoughts?
    :confuse:
  • Hello Evryone

    I have a 2001 Dodge dakota sport V8 automatic. About a year ago I was on a road trip and and while i was doing 120km down the highway It stated reving up to 3000-4000 RPM and it would slow down from 120km/hr to 80km/hr while going up a hill and the engine ligth came on. When I got it back home it just went away and I haven't had a problem for a whole year. Till now! It started doing it again but now seems it's having issues with coming in and out of second gear.When I reach 60-80km/hr it revs up to about 2500-3000RPM and it's jerky like it's shifting hard. But when I'am going faster(100-120km/hr) It's fine. What can be the issue. Is my transmission going on me?
  • I have an 02 dakota 4X4 with 4.7 engine. I went on trip to see my daughter-had check engine light but it has had that for a long time. It was very cold here in Virginia when I arrived and on my way I stopped for pit stop. When I went to pull off, the transmission was starting to slip but I drove it another 30 minutes to my daughter's house. When I got up next morning, it would not shift out of park! I got on here and saw this post about the cable going to the transmission so I went out and operated it manually a couple of times-let it pop back in place after releasing it. I got in truck, started it up and wala..it came out of park and shifted just fine!! Thanks a bunch for your post!! :)
  • I have a 92 dakota 3.9 atomatic. It started shifting late (at high rpm). I drove it about 30 miles that way. Then it started slipping really bad. I mean it would barely move.... maybe 10 feet at a time..... then it wouldnt even go into gear. I got a dolly today to get it home... got in it and drove up on to the dolly! it didnt slip at all! After I got it home I drove it around the block a few times, it shifted great and it didnt slip. I put it in park to open the garage door then couldnt get it to go again.
    Any ideas?
  • I have a dodge dakota 2000 slt. I noticed after leaving and upon coming back i noticed transmission fluid on my driveway. Looked uderneath and sure enough dripping from a plate covering the transmission was red fluid. because of the coverring I couldn't see were the leak was coming from any ideas? thank you.
  • This is an update to my previous entry. I won't go into details, but I found out that the culprit was the 1/2 (first bank, downstream) oxygen sensor. It shares the same voltage with the trans governor sensor. I had codes P0138 - 1/2 O2 sensor voltage high, and P1763 - Governor voltage high. The first bank is the side of the engine with cylinders 1, 3, & 5. The second bank has cylinders 2, 4, & 6. The upstream O2 sensor is before the catalytic converter, and downstream is after. If you have these codes, unplug the sensor, and if the problem goes away, replace the sensor.
  • Hello everyone,

    I own a 2000 dodge dakota with about 140,000 miles on the engine. About 6 months ago I started having problems with the vehicle while driving on the higway. I will be going 75-80 mph and the rps will just start to rev up to between 2500 and 3000 and it will not go back to normal on its own. I have found that the only way to get the rmp to go down is to put the truck in neutral, while going 75-80, and coasting down to about 40 where I can shift back into gear. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this and how do fix it? Any help would be greatly appriciated. Thanks.
Sign In or Register to comment.