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Dodge Dakota Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • dasboot72dasboot72 Posts: 115
    for sure fix the fauly Cat Con but you should try to play with the throttle pressure cable adjustment and see if you can get the truck to do what you want it to. At the throttle body the Throttle Pressure cable has a white clip that can be raised to release the cable in its bracket for adjustment. Try playing around with that. The PCM will only inhibit TCC lockip during an overheat event, and of course in the event of 30% + throttle angle, a brake switch going on, or a certain amount of calculated engine load. The odge tech should of varified the correct lockup fuction during his test drive. That is why I say maybe you need to tweek the throttle pressure cable for your own liking. Just use a small screwdriver to lift up that white clip and be careful not to break it.
  • I have a 2003 Dak w/v6, 4 speed auto. When cold, shift into reverse causes engine to shudder and shut down. If I apply a little pressure to the accel, it will clear up. Second, when hot, a shift into overdrive causes a shudder & the tach goes crazy. No codes come up! ANY help would be great. Thanks
  • dasboot72dasboot72 Posts: 115
    What V6 do you have, the 3.9L or the 3.7L. That makes a difference as to what trans you have which makes all the difference in the world when diagnosingthem. YYou will either have a 3.9L with a 44RE or a 3.7L with a 45RFE. Let me know.
  • I have the 3.9L
  • dasboot72dasboot72 Posts: 115
    OK, the 3.9 means you have a 44RE Trans. The condition you are describing with the cold stall is almost certaintly a problem with the reaction shaft (part of the front pump). I have seen this problem numerous times and many of those times it was inflicted by a hack mechanic during an engine replacement. If you try to force the engine onto the mounts you could bend the shaft causing this exact problem. The other issue is electrical and could be caused by a number of things.
  • kerton4kerton4 Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Dodge Dakota with a 5 speed manual transmission while trying to check the trans fluid level I removed a bolt on the drivers side of transmission somthing inside slipped down,How do I replace this bolt?
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Well first of all, what slipped down? I would not close things back up until you have fished out whatever it was that dropped.
  • kerton4kerton4 Posts: 2
    I don't know what slipped .i didn't open up the transmission I was only rying to check fluid obviously I removed a bolt I shouldn't have.Now I can't get the bolt to thread back in.
  • mauboujrmauboujr Posts: 1
    i have a 99 durango with 11000 trany has been great till now. the other day i noticed a whining noise when driving. i did not pay attention to it figured it was some thing simple and i would checkit out when i had time. ha now the truck will not shift out of first gear. it is not low on oil. i dont think its shot because the oil does not smell does any one have any ideas on what my problem is?
  • So this has a V6 with the auto trans. When it starts out in D, it feels like it starts in 2nd being a little sluggish, and will work its way thru the gears or you can step on it and it will downshift to first and take off just fine and continue to shift htru the gears just fine. Any ideas? Thanks
  • dasboot72dasboot72 Posts: 115
    Need to know what trans you have. If it's an RE series trans you almost certainly have a faulty governor pressure solonoid/ Governor pressure transducer. If its an RFE series trans that would be a whole different thing completely.
  • Its a 42re and the year I was misstaken is a 2002. Thanks for your help
  • gagergager Posts: 2
    Update, I replaced the TPS, no change in clunk when transmisssion downshifts at 25 MPH. Anybody got a suggestion on where to go next?
  • dasboot72dasboot72 Posts: 115
    Obviously the only way to diag properly is with a scan tool that can read Gov pressure but without that data what you are describing is almost certainly Gov issues. Need any more info?
  • If you were to guess, what part would most likely need replacing?
  • dasboot72dasboot72 Posts: 115
    Replace the Governor pressure transducer and Governor pressure solonoid. Both are mounted on a small boss attached to the valve body.
  • donisysdonisys Posts: 7
    I have swapped the tps on my 1999 Dakota. Unfortunately, the transmission is still acting strange. New fluid and filter now. Tranny is not OEM. Someone swapped it for an older tranny with adjustable bands. It will shift into 2nd but rarely third and OD. At idle it will go in and out of gear. If I take my foot off of gas at 45ish, it will complete shifting and lock convertor.
  • dasboot72dasboot72 Posts: 115
    All RE transmissions have adjustable bands so I'm not sure what you mean by that. Is it that it has a badly delayed 2-3 upshift, and maybe will seem like getting the rpm's up to the high end and letting off the gas will get it to shift? If so you almost certainly have a worn front clutch piston seal which is the most common seal to wear on the RE series trans. Repairing this obviously requires trans removal.
  • donisysdonisys Posts: 7
    The filter I had to purchase was for a Chrysler 1977-1990 tranny.
  • dasboot72dasboot72 Posts: 115
    In other words you have a paper filter as opposed to a plastic encased filter. The paper filter was used up until 1997. You have to have an RE trans as opposed to an RH (RE has electronic governor, RH has hydraulic governor) because your check engine light would be on due to the connector at the trans that would have no where to go. RH transmissions were used up until about 1994 or so. Anyway, my point is you have to have RE trans and you need to make sure that you do have the right filter because if a paper filter has been incorrectly installed on a valve body that requires a plastic filter you can have issues. If the filter doesn't fit nice and flat to the bottom of the valve body its not right.
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