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Dodge Dakota Transmission Problems



  • jackcashjackcash Posts: 1
    2 months ago,started not shifting into o/d. changed filter,fluid. o/d started working.6 wks later started no o/d.fluid no smell,clean red color. drop pan again,unplugged od solenoid,light came on od off. ohm out solenoid no tone.put pan back fluid added. switched out trans relay w/horn relay,no o/d shift.3 wires vt,blk/w,brn/g(12v);2wires vt/bk,grn/w no volts;3wires org(12v),blk/bl,w/or. codes from autozone:po753,p1762,p1764,p1765..internal part failure? thanks any help.
  • dpm2dpm2 Posts: 2
    Jay -My Dakota is doing the same thing. Did you ever find a solution?
  • dpm2dpm2 Posts: 2
    Same truck, same trouble. Did you ever find a solution?
  • Well my solution to the problem I just replaced the transmision....over 2,000.00 but worth it cause my truck is in mint condition other wise. :)
  • Just replaced my OD unit, and now the truck is stuck in park/ won't engage gears. Had trouble installing OD (splines got out of alignment). Had trans out and sitting on bell housing with output shaft pointing up. Spent over 2 hours trying to install OD by pushing/shoving/sliding it down against shaft. Got new unit, but it would not full seat (about 1/4 inch gap) between OD face and rear of trans. Finally, bolted it down and as it seated, I heard a "spring-like" pop from the trans, and the unit seated. I hadn't been able to move the shift arm on the side of the trans until that point, when it would then go freely through the gear detents. Now, I've got the truck back together, and shifter on column works as normal, but no gear change. The truck seems to be stuck in park. I hesitate to put the AFT +4 back in because it is so expensive, since I may have to go back into the trans. Did I screw up the trans, or do you think that it's somehow jammed in park? What to do?
  • HOld the phone! My "truck whisperer" wife made it work somehow. Everything is cool.
  • wuzfuz2wuzfuz2 Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 Dakota QC 4.7 w/44000miles. I have an engine miss at any speed 35 to 55 held for any distance. It idles fine, otherwise runs good. NO codes. Transmissions shifts fine. Had the top plugs changed no change. Have run gas additive twice no change. At any steady speed it feel like I am running into a gusting wind. Tach stays steady.
  • scoopyexscoopyex Posts: 31
    My 07 Ram does the same exact thing and some days it drives me insane. if you open the hood and open the throttle up 1200-1800 rpms you should see the engine start rocking slightly. I have 82K on my truck and it's been doing this since I bought it new.
  • psainpsain Posts: 1
    2000 dodge dakota the fly wheel is kicking in and out very fast when the speed gets up around 50 . Dose anyone know how to fix this?
  • denysedenyse Posts: 3
    I really need help in more ways then one but lets just start with this....My husband has a 98 Dodge Dakota and the transmission is slipping. It has been going for awhile but this morning it is slipping out of drive and struggling then slipping back into drive. Can I hope that maybe it is not a full transmission problem and just a easy fix??????? :cry:
  • circuitrydercircuitryder Posts: 30
    edited July 2012
    Have you checked the fluid level? These transmissions are very sensitive to fluid level. You have to put the truck in neutral on level ground to check it.
  • denysedenyse Posts: 3
    Thank you. I have sent this information on to my husband.
  • First- get a Chilton or Haynes book...that should be the first thing you buy for ANY vehicle.

    If it's still just slipping (no grinding yet) you MIGHT be able to save it- drop the transmission pan and filter (fairly easy- 14-15 bolts on the pan on the bottom of the transmission)'ll want a new filter & gasket kit (about 12 bucks at O'Reilly's) and you'll need new transmission fluid....since its slipping so badly, I would recommend draining ALL the fluid out of it, so to refill it, you'll need a lot (probably about 15 quarts of ATF+4)... To get ALL the fluid out- once you drop the trannypan and filter out (and get the inevitable red shower that you'll get), turn the truck ON, and cycle it through the gears (move the selector from Park all the way down to low)...when you get into reverse, allow the truck to move a couple of inches...when you get into the driving gears (D,2,L, etc) allow the truck to move back that few inches. This is called "rocking the truck" and it allows the +/- 10 quarts of old fluid to drain out of the Torque Converter....Once it's all drained out- follow the instructions in the Chilton or Haynes for adjusting the Transmission Bands (located in the same place you just pulled the trannypan and filter from)....if your transmission isnt already chewed up, then this SHOULD save you....once you're done, put new filter in place, new gasket on trannypan, and put trannypan back where you got it- be sure to put ALL THE BOLTS BACK and tighten them down across from each other like you would when changing a as not to have any leaks. When adding new fluid- turn the truck about 4 quarts at a time, cycle the gears, add more'll take 10+ just to fill the Torque Converter....and the transmission pan holds about 4 quarts... The advantage of doing it yourself rather than taking it in- is a lot of transmission places dont fully do the work- they instead just suck the fluid out of the dipstick, refill it through there, and then charge you 130 bucks for nothing...if you dont adjust the bands and change the filter- then you're just asking to spend a few thousand in transmission...Good luck. If you happen to be near the Austin, TX area, message me back on here and we'll swap contact info- and I'll come fix it.
  • denysedenyse Posts: 3
    I wish we did. We live in MD. Many,many years ago we lived at Ft Hood. Thank you for your help. I have print out your advice and will give to me my husband.
  • I also have a 96 dodge dakota same problems...sorry not good I ended up replacing my trans :cry: :cry:
  • ok im new here so here i go i have a 97 Dakota 5 speed nv3500 transmission had the transmission rebuilt i put a new clutch kit in the truck and just replaced the slave cylinder master cylinder assembly this is the problem the truck starts fine but when i go to put it in any gear it grinds bad i can usually get reverse and its fine but sometimes grinds there to i am out of ideas because i was sure it was the slave cylinder assembly. the only other thing i can think of is the fork that holds the throwout bearing ( can it be put in backwards i put it in numbers facing me to where i could read them) if you guys can help me out i appreciate it
  • I'm not sure about the fork for the throw-out bearing...I haven't had the privilege of working on a 97 Dakota yet....I just rebuilt the engine in my 02 Ram (360 Mag)...that was I'm due for a transmission filter/fluid change...once again- back out in the heat :)
    Again- best advice that I can give to ANYBODY about a vehicle problem- consult the almighty Chilton or Haynes...thats the ultimate tool for whatever vehicle you have... When the transmission was rebuilt- did they put the gear-oil or fluid it in? Manual Transmissions- while they don't have fluid that you check and add like an automatic, they DO have their own fluid/oil inside them that allows them to operate...there should be two plugs- one that sits a little higher than the other- and both on the same side of the transmission...they're probably a hex-head plug- and they're probably a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] to loosen up...find those two plugs, and find the one that sits HIGHER than the other one...the higher one is the one you loosen up and remove to check your fluid level in there- much like checking the gear oil in a differential box...stick your finger in and feel for should feel the fluid just at the bottom of that hole...if you do- then thats not the problem, consult the chilton/haynes again.....if you dont- then remove the bottom plug (because you might as well drain out whatever nastiness remains of the old stuff since its low or non-existant...drain it- put bottom plug back in- fill from top plug-hole...then put top-plug back... Hope that helps- again- I'm not 100% on that- it just seems logical based on the transmissions i HAVE worked of luck!
  • well i have read my haynes book over and over the transmission was empty when i got it back from the shop and i filled it myself. i was looking through my book and i noticed that the clutch fork has a retainer clip on it. well mine never had one on it so when i put it back in i didnt think twice about it could the missing retaining clip be causing all my problems
  • That could be your problem- also- how much fluid did you put back in when you filled it? Remember that torque converter ALONE holds probably 10 quarts...

    If the retaining clip is missing- the next question is it somewhere INSIDE the transmission case? Hopefully not, or I would be worried about the quality of the rebuild done by the shop. Did the shop offer any warranty on their work? If so- I'd take it back to them...but I'd first check the ammount of fluid in the transmission. When re-filling it, you'll have to fill it, close it- run it and cycle it through the gears (as best as possible) and then shut it off and repeat the process over and over again until that torque converter is filled up... good luck!
  • davee2davee2 Posts: 3
    Clutch went as a plastic tube burst or split. Mechanic tried a lot of options but I was forced to buy a whole unit (slave & master cylinder& tubing ) He said removal & replacement was the worst clutch job he ever faced! As delivered you get one chance to couple tube directly as they are prefilled & there are no bleeders for air or refill
    If this is typical of Dodge design they deserve to be shot! $370.00 to buy parts alone This was a 2002 2 wd with 125,000 km
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