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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Fuel Pump/Fuel System

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  • 2003 silverado 1500 5.3 litre

    Hey, new here but anticipate I am going to start having allot of problems with my truck pretty soon. Ok, here is the deal, when I turn over my truck normally, it will keep turning over for quite a while, before it starts. If I turn the key on, without turning it over and let it set for 10 seconds, it turns over right away. I initially thought it was the pressure regulator, so I put a new one in. that did not correct the problem, so I put a new fuel filter in, still did not fix problem. My next guess was the fuel pump going bad, I had it tested, they said it was fine, but I don't exactly believe them. I also am noticing a purging sound at the regulator, and can feel it when I touch it when the truck is running.
    If anyone has some suggestions, please let me know.
    Thanks
  • You have a tuffy. Usually with all GM vortec engines starting up problems are either fuel pressure or tune up related. You have to run some test. If the vehicle has 90k miles or more do a complete tune up. With a fuel guage check fuel pressure at the rail. With key on engine off 55-65 psi is the spec. Watch the pressure for at least 2 minuts with the key on and see if the pressure drops more than 5psi. Having the key on for 10 sec prior to starting may assist the vehicle if it is in bad need of a tune up. Do these test and repost.
  • I had a garage do that about 2 weeks ago, and they said the pressure was fine, I suppose I should pick up the proper tools to check it myself. I do have only 80,000 miles, so I do probably need to do a complete fuel system cleaning. Thanks for the suggestion.
  • (2002 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3liter) What is the difference between a 1 connector Module code and a 2 connector Module code for a fuel pump?
  • jimjorgejimjorge Posts: 1
    edited February 2010
    I was driving my truck on the freeway and it sputtered and died on me. The engine would crank over fine. Had to have it towed home. I broke out the chiltons book and it said to open the electrical center under the hood and check for 12V at the pump primer test spot. It is supposed to put out 12V for 2 seconds after the key is turned. mine had 12V all the time. This morning I go out to check it out in the daylight, and the battery is dead. Also I have to say that the fuel gage would deflect (between empty and whatever the real level was). so I went down to o'rieleys and bought a fuel pump, filter and relay. I heard from a mechanic that if you have a hoist an easy swap is to lift the bed off the truck.
    I rigged up my hoist and tied rope to the tie downs in the bed, you have to disconnect a couple of wiring harnesses above the bumper, and the three screws in the filler neck. 8 bolts later the Sucker lifted right off and out of the way. You gotta make sure you rig it right cause it probably weighs 3-400 lbs (guessing).
    new pump filter and relay cost me about $320. I had to use the double connector model ( the have a single connector model for $150. very easy swap, the car starts and the fuel gage works consistanly. I hope this post helps some one else out there.
    JJ
  • true56true56 Posts: 4
    I got the same problem with my truck cant get the gas in did u fix it or can u tell me what u didlink">
  • true56true56 Posts: 4
    Two weeks ago it started cant get gas to go in my 2007 gmc truck,Is this just another thing on this chev that falls apart in three years
  • nocodenocode Posts: 3
    edited March 2010
    OK, it finally happened, my truck started idling erratically, and almost wanted to die on me, so I had to put it in neutral, and press the gas while I was at a stop light. I made it to a garage, and had them put a fuel pump in. Problem solved, so I thought. 2 days later it started idling funny, check engine light came back on. I put it in neutral, and revved the engine a bit, and it ran fine after that, and has still been running good. The check engine light has come off. I believe, I am going to need a new O2 sensor very soon though. But bottom line, 80,000 miles on a Chevy truck, and be prepared to put a new fuel pump in. Also I have been noticing my front axle seals starting to leak. So Chevy's are built to last, built to last 85,000 miles maybe. Piece of crap. Lucky for them, I still like how they drive, and look.
  • seafarmerseafarmer Posts: 16
    Change out the canister under the bed of the truck. I didn't even have to jack it up to get it. There are two hoses running to it that control the back pressure to the tank. It was @ $25 for the part from the dealer (dealer only part but in stock...imagine that. They only keep parts in stock when a lot of them are going bad.). Anyhow, there is a plastic clip that holds it up there and just a quick connect to pop out and re-install on the new one. These clog up with debris, especially if the tank has been overfilled repeatedly. You should be good as new.
  • true56true56 Posts: 4
    Hi thanks for the reply ..just caled dealer and the canister is 211.00 bucks and the vent solinoid is 180.00 .....where did u get it for 25 as u said or just maybe we get screwed up here in canada ..I f you know where you got it i will order one from there thanks
  • seafarmerseafarmer Posts: 16
    Even with the exchange rate $211 is quite a jump! I still have my receipts in my glove box. I got mine from Medina Auto Mall, Medina, Ohio, 44256, USA. . www.medinaautomall.net Without looking, I forget if it was the purge valve or vent valve but it's under the bed of the truck.

    I'm not certain of any special Candian requirements that might alter the canister used but it's basically a plastic canister with a brillo-pad inside. If you find that a U.S. version will work, I'll pick one up for you and ship it to you.
  • true56true56 Posts: 4
    edited March 2010
    Ya that sounds great just gota find out if it will work..I dont know why we get screwed here for car parts...I just restored a 64 Impala super sport I purchaced everything from calafornia about 20 thow ,Listen to this ,to buy a windshield for my car its 480 bucks here ...I got all the glass front back and vent and side glass in the US for 425 and that includes shipin to my door.The wheels and tires 460 here for one unit... All 4 rims mounted on tires delivered the same product for 800 Im sorry Canada I love this place but I cant aford to shop here... and It goes on and on
    All the dutys were paid and the exchange rate as well
  • This problem has finally got me destroyed. I have an 04 silverado in which the fuel pump (or so i would assume) took a dive on me. I shut off the truck, 3 minutes later went to start it and it just turns over.... So i thought it was the fuel pump. 45 minutes later i went to turn it over for [non-permissible content removed] and giggles and nothing, not even a solenoid click from the starter. Its not a dead battery (checked that) and i checked all of the fuses and they are all great. Here is what i cannot figure out.

    The 8 gauge wire that goes to the solenoid does not show any activity when i turn it over. What could be causing that? (starter is good) I even traced the wire all the way to the fuse box and checked for activity when i turned it over and nothing.

    Can anyone give me any ideas?

    thanks.
  • b072786b072786 Posts: 3
    check for fuel pressure so see if you got any. and also check if the injecters are cloged
  • francis123francis123 Posts: 1
    how to remove the fuel pump in a 1999 gmc sierra? anyone? i need detailed guide on how t do it.. thanks a lot.
  • i have a 2001 silverado..single cab

    need to disconect battery set brake etc

    you need to lift the box
    loosen the far side but remove the gas tank side (6 bolts)
    lift and prop with a sturdy beam so you dont have to remove the box completely
    then you can remove the fuel pump

    gotta cut and splice wires so pull out a nice length
    make sure you have tape to cover it

    only other thing is remember to wear gloves this proces can be very dirty

    and when you start you supposed to turn key to ac and leave there so pump gas through the lines

    ps th e full instructions are somewhere in this forum
  • r62ewar62ewa Posts: 1
    I was driving down the road in my GMC Sierra 2001, V6 4X4 and the truck just stopped and would not restart. So I figured it was something with the fuel pump/filter.

    I changed the filter and also put in a new fuel pump and the truck still won't start, just cranks over.

    Any ideas on what my issue could be???
  • bruce48532bruce48532 Posts: 64
    You did check to see if you had spark I assume ???

    Fuel regulator ?

    Look here
    http://leaseorsale.biz/truck/fuel%20regulator%20replacement.htm
  • Duane99Duane99 Posts: 11
    I have a 99 silverado 5.3 that has the same issue. Always starts fine, but if hasn't sat for a couple of days, will not accelerate for about 2-3 minutes and then fine after that. Lately, the gas gauge has registered empty when tank is full, switch off/on and it registers correctly. What did you find out to be your problem. Thank you.
  • bruce48532bruce48532 Posts: 64
    Fuel filter change it now or pay later for a new file pump. plugged fllter causing over draw of amps causing fuel Gage to flipflop.
  • aar89aar89 Posts: 1
    When I went to leave work the other day my truck wouldn't start. I listened for the fuel pump to kick on and it didn't. I had previously had issues with the fuel pump relay, so I replaced this relay as a "hail mary" to save money hoping this wouold fix the problem, it did not. Since then I have replaced the fuel pump, traced the wires checking for breaks, and tried replacing those wires. So far nothing has worked. We can force power to the pump and get it to turn on but when you the turn the key on it doesn;t work.

    If anyone has any ideas I would appreciate it.

    Thanks in advance!">
  • inthebackintheback Posts: 1
    I have just replaced my fuel pump on my 96 gmc 1500 it worked great for a few months but now when I start it and its running the fuel pump will not shut off .
  • Hello everybody I have a 98 chevy silverado with the 5.0 vortech engine. The problem i am having is that sometimes the truck will start but then immediatly stall. After about 10 minutes or so and after turning the key it will start and run as if nothing happened. Then it will be good for a while then out of nowhere the darn thing acts up again. I have noticed that when i cycle the key when I turn it on the fuel pump does not run then when I cycle it off the fuel pump comes back on. But when it runs it cycles normally. It is really starting to irritate me. Also my fuel gauge will bounce back and forth between empty and full all the time. PLEASE HELP!!! Any input would be greatly appreciated! :)
  • akjbmwakjbmw Posts: 231
    Had a '98 silverado with a 5.7 vortec. I think the fuel pump just quit without any teasing.
    The dealer fix is the complete fuel pump and sending unit as a single unit. Note that the new fuel level sending unit shows empty much sooner than the old unit. The fuel is still there, it just lies to you.
    Naturally, the tank was over three quarters full. They charge to transfer the fuel to a storage container and lower the tank to gain access to the opening for the unit.
    An independent shop is likely to replace just the fuel pump for less total labor.
    Hopefully the gauge issue is an electrical ground deal. Could also be what the fuel pump issue is too.
    I don't remember what the exact cost was, but it was significant.
    I would do independent shop.
    As it is, I had a transfer-flo tank installed in my newer truck and that becomes a non-dealer issue to start with. Actually, I don't think the whole transfer-flo upgrade was much more costly than the fuel pump deal on the '98. 45 gallons instead of only 26 helps get past the high prices in the boonies. Something to consider since you are facing the repair.
  • Ok, first thanks for this site!! I have read all through this forum but cant find my issue completely, i have a 03 2500 gas GMC of course.(236638 km) i turned a corner and it sputtered out and died, rolled into the lot shut it off then turned it over again but it would putt putt putt and die ( still electrical working) towed it home, then had same issues, now it just cranks but doesnt turn, I havent checked my fuel filter, but i have checked the pressure bleed fitting on passenger side of engine (look like a lil tire valve) there is a lil gas coming out. I read around and it said to remove the plastic hose from my fuel pressure regulator and gas came out for 5 secs and now nothing comes out. i cant get the lock clips off the vaccuum hose that attaches to it though. there is also no error numbers or check engine light, i am at a complete loss of ideas now.. Anyone with a similar problem thanks
  • I was not getting fuel. Pump was not running. I lifted the bed and pulled the pump. The pump wire had disconnected. The clip was soft. I think that over time the gas breaks down the plastic. I put a zip tie around the clip to assure it wont come off again.
  • My truck was running just fine no warning lights or messages pulling into the drive way and it stalled out. If I wait about 10 minutes it will start again and about 30 seconds later it will die out again. I let it sit over night and it ran for about two minutes and died again. I am somewhat mechanicly inclined but this just doesent make sense to me. Does anyone have an idea?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    edited February 2011
    There are a bunch of sensors that monitor and adjust fuel, air, etc. I would start by checking both the throttle position sensor and the idle air controller. A failure of either one could cause the condition you describe.

    Both are inexpensive and relatively easy to replace.
  • I have the changed the fuel filter periodically and recently. This problem is not affected.
  • I am building a 72 nova in which I am planning on installing a 5.7 litre vortec out of a 97 silverado. I have the entire truck, so I plan on using the 460le transmission and the computer. Any suggestions on making this as painless as possible?
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