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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Fuel Pump/Fuel System

189101113

Comments

  • demel417demel417 Posts: 1
    While driving, the truck stalled. I managed to get it started, but would only remain started as long as I gave it gas - full throttle. Stalled again, and this time it would start, but could not keep it started no matter how much I revved the motor. The injectors have been replaced, the filter was replaced and now the carb has been replaced. There is fuel going to the carb, but the injectors are not spraying. One may dribble a bit - we're at a lost.
  • debc1998debc1998 Posts: 3
    I am in desperate need of help. Driving down the road and the truck died like I turned the key off. It wouldn't start had it towed home. The next day it started but died after warming up to temperature then wouldn't start til next day. We replaced the fuel pump. It started but died after a bit. No codes when put on machine. Very strange, anyone with any ideas?
  • icoileicoile Posts: 1
    I am on my 3rd Silverado in the past 10 years and have never had this problem. Truck is under 300 miles, since the first day it hesitates between 20 and 45 mph. It's at the dealer and their answer is it is shifting gears, that's just not true. Anyone have any ideas ?
  • did you replace the fuel filter?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,083
    debc1998,

    My best recommendation is to take the vehicle to your local GM dealership to be diagnosed. Please keep me posted.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • I am having the same problem with my 2003 silverado 2500HD. I have put 3 fuel pumps, new filter, and pressure regulator in and once it warms up it justs dies and won't start. I need an answer so if you get one please advise us all. I am leaning toward crank position sensor??
  • debc1998debc1998 Posts: 3
    We finally got some codes to come out after having a mobile mechanic with a fancier machine to come out for $75.00. He said it had several codes which it spit out, first being to replace the accelerator pedal position sensor. $63.00 not working still. He claims the Crank position sensor is the next one to put it, we will get it tomorrow and see if that works. It sounds like this may be the problem. If it doesn't work then he will come back out and put the machine on again to see what it shows. I am frustrated at this point. I will let you know how it turns out tomorrow evening.
  • debc1998debc1998 Posts: 3
    He also said it good be a cam shaft sensor. He talked about both of them. Claims it could be either one. We are going with the Crank position sensor first.

    P1516 Code:
    Chevrolet: Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module Throttle Actuator Position Performance
    GMC: Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module Throttle Actuator Position Performance
    The Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) / throttle body type trouble codes, may be caused by a loose wiring crimp at the throttle body connector, or a broken throttle body circuit.
  • by all means remove the pump assembly and test it with power from the battery using two pieces of wire touching the poles but only for a second ...then you will know if you have a pump problem or a wiring problem
    saved me buying a third pump but cost me my right arm for the mechanic to diagnose and replace the wire
  • I think I got mine fixed tonight. I found a post that said his was a loose ground wire behind the front driver wheel. Well that was correct. The fuel pump ground is connected to the frame at the body mount. I was in an accident 6 months ago and was hit in the driver door and tube step. The tube step was pushing on the back of the ground screw and stripped the threads in the frame. I tightened the ground screw and truck runs fine. This is why it would run fine sitting in the driveway but would die while driving (vibrations from Colorado roads). Just wish I wouldn't have spent $400.00 on pump, filter, and regulator chasing the problem.
  • thanks to all that posted but a special thanks to the post about the ground wire. STUPID GENERAL MOTORS for a stupid ground location!!!!
  • jeffgood1jeffgood1 Posts: 1
    Hello. Im having the same issue with my 99 Sierra 5.3 99000 miles. I just had major work done. New headgaskets, heads, intake gasket, etc. Two weeks later I'm having fuel problems. Replaced fuel pump in 08. How do you check if power is going to the pump? Where are the grey and black wires found? Thanks.
  • I think my problem has to do with my fuel system...On a cold engine it studders or completely lags when accelerating in 1st then kicks into 2nd pretty hard. I just replaced my transmission about 2 months ago. Any ideas? Thanks
  • Wish I could help but I am also looking for answers.
  • pap2pap2 Posts: 1
    My 06 Silverado, 5.3 L , stalled out at 65-70 mph , then restarted, 8 times on a long trip home. The 9th time it would not restart and I had to pull over. I waited 45 minutes after trying it several times. Meantime, I tokk off and replaced the gas cap, and cleaned the air filter. It was ho, over 95 degrees. The last time I tried it, it started right up and ran fine all the way home about 140 miles. Starts OK now. The engine did not sputter or buck when it quit - just quit like a light switch turning off.
    Sounds expensive to diagnose and fix as I know there can be many different causes. Any ideas or has anyone else experienced the same problem?
    Thanks
  • Thanks biga4! I was having the same problem with my 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 4.8LTR V-8 you described in your post. I had changed out all eight of the coils along with a new fuel pump & filter (the fuel pump was causing a lag whenever the fuel in the tank was 1/4 full or less) but I was still plagued with rough idle & hard start. I changed out the FPR ($64.64 at O'Reilly's) and it idles smooth and starts right away even after having reached operating temp. You da man!!
    Jim
  • I have a chevy 3500HD. I was driving down the road when all of a sudden the truck just lost power like it was out of fuel (I don't know much about diesel motors, this is my 1st one). I checked to see if there was fuel in the filter by cracking the bleeder screw and nothing came out. A friend told me to get a new filter as the one on there may be plugged. I replaced it and I cannot get any fuel into the filter by priming it. What could possibly be the problem??
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,083
    bigb69,
    I apologize for your frustrations. I would recommend speaking with the dealer to have the vehicle diagnosed. Can you please update me on your progress as well as send me your information (VIN, current mileage, dealer etc.). I look forward to speaking with you.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • Hi Christina,
    Thank you for your response, my truck is at Steve Schmitt GMC Chevrolet in Litchfield, IL. I currently don't have my VIN number handy, the truck has 150,000 mi on it. So far as of today they think that it might be the fuel injection pump. Unfortunatly they may not have it done till Monday, I need it tomorrow so I can continue my trip as I deliver new 5th wheels and travel trailers for a company out of Indiana. I was on my way to Texas when this problem occured. I just bought the truck one week ago today and traveled 500 miles when it broke down.

    Thank you again
    Randie
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,083
    Randie (Bigb69),
    Thank you for your response. Please let me know how things go at the dealer. If you would like to email me directly with the information when you get it, I would be happy to look into this. You can also find the VIN on any insurance papers you may have. Thanks!
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • Christina, I sent you a couple responses thru E-mail, the problem is the injector pump. The truck won't be finished by today at all........
  • Now the dealership says that the crank is broke. They replaced the injector pump and the truck didn't start. The problem we have is that if the crank was broken the motor would have a lot of different noises to it when it was turning over and when we were on the side of the road there were no other different noises. I believe the dealer doesn't know what the hell they are doing (in my opinion)..... It would be nice if someone from GM would call me on this matter............

    Randie
  • I have a 1998 Silverado with a 5.7 liter engine. I recently did a full tune-up on it to include spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor cap and rotor.The problem is the truck runs fine until it warms up,then the truck is hard to start and you have to hold the accelerator to the floor before it starts and sometimes it runs rough like it's running rich. It's not showing any trouble codes on my scan tool. I did a resistance check on the temp sensor and it's within tolerance according to my service manual and there is the correct voltage going to the temp sensor. Have changed the knock sensor too. I haven't been able to diagnose what is causing this. Any helpwould be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance
  • Did you get the plug wires on snug?

    and have you checked the mass air flow sensor? It should be on the 3-4" tube that connects from the air box to the intake(?) and look like a plastic credit card holder sticking off the side. Do a 'tap' test when you start it from cold and see if it cuts out. This killed me in diagnostic time on a couple GMs the first time I encountered a bad one. They have a tendancy to cut out only when hot. If you were inthe air filter box you could have flexed, cracked, unplugged the sensor.
  • I did check all the wires and connections. I tried a different mass air flow sensor that I knew was good and it still did the same thing. The air box and sensor are all good . It runs fine until it warms up,then acts up. I'm thinking it could be a leaking fuel pressure regulator
  • I have a 2008 gmc sierra last 8 vin 8Z160870 4WD pickup was running when parked would not start in morning did some test was not getting fuel assumed fuel pump 115,000 miles,replaced fuel pump and still would not start. applied power to pump and pickup started removed power and truck died. have no power at 20amp pump fuse, key on or off, pump relay has power but jumping relay dosent work any ideas
  • Hey i have the same car and i checked and replaced the feul filter and fuel pump now im geting good pressure and good volume but the fuel injectors wont fire there are two fuel injectors. But evry now and then when i turn it over for a long long time and once and a blue moon it will start and when it deos start it runs fine then it will start up for the rest of the day then when u let it set for a few days its a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] to start again
  • I am having problems with my fuel pump I think. My truck one day just would not start, it would just sit and crank but would not turn over. Me, my dad and my brother dropped the tank and replaced the pump. In the process my old man ripped one of the wire on the female 4 pin connector. So I got a new one but the color of the wires on the new plug are different from the stock connecter. I just put them on so the colors match. And my truck will still not start. I have looked at IGN 1 relay and it was backwards for some reason so i put it on right and all the fuses look good in my fuse box. Please help me.
  • I can't remember on if it is the same on the older ones, but on 99 and newer, it sounds like the fuel regulator. It is up on the fuel rail.
  • byron06, have you figured out your problem yet? I have a 03 1500 hd 4X4 and also changed out my pump after checking all the fuses and relays and only have 5 volts at pump, i also ran 12 volt lead to pump and the truck will start and run but only with the jumper. I seem to have 12 volts leaving the fuse box from relay and fuse but it is not getting to the pump, i also checked if the circuit ran to oil pressure swtich and i had 5 volts there as well, any ideas on where to check?
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