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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Fuel Pump/Fuel System

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  • This just started recenlty. I have a 2000 silverado w/ approx. 142,000miles. This happens when the truck has been sitting for a while. it wont start unless i pump the gas pedal while i turn the key to start. i can turn it off after it has been driven then start it up without any problems, but if it just sits for a while expecially in the morning, i would need to pump the gas pedal. I've changed the fuel filter with no luck. now ive been told it might be the fuel pump. has anyone experienced this before? if it is the fuel pump, what am i looking at cost wise to fix? i can purchase the fuel pump and have my dad help me since he is a retired mechanic. i just need a ballpark estimate at what im looking at.
    thanks for the help
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    gmpartsdirect has the fuel pump listed at $265 + shipping.
  • hey pickupgrl, since its the 8.1 i assume diesel, if so check all turbo hoses and the air to air cooler, i guess the harder u are on the throttle the louder it gets, its the turbo boost leaking out and that would be why u have a loss of power.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    The 8.1 is a gasser not a diesel. The diesel is a 6.6
  • aahh my bad. too many diff engines for one vehicle ya know. checked for vacuum leaks?
  • i had the same problem it is your fuel pump its not totaly gone but it going
  • kilowattkilowatt Posts: 4
    I replaced the fuel pump myself.
    pump cost at NAPA was $289
    I dropped the tank with in 30 min. Jack the truck high enough to slide the tank out . You should be able to do the job in less then 3 hrs. DO NOT GET A CHEAP ONE.
    Also make sure to change the connector on the wiring.
    That has been some of the problem.
    You should not have any trouble
  • i have an 03 silverado with a 5.3 it has electronic throttle control and when i am coming to a stop it wants to die sometimes does and it has a very rough idle i already changed plugs wires fuel filter and cleaned my k and n air filter i have checked all vacum lines there is no vacum leak i even checked the vacum brake booster it holds vacum just fine i did a trany filter and filter change and no metal shavings and i have not gotten any trouble codes and when i was doing the tune up i had the battery disconnected after re connecting the battery i had to drive it around for 45 minutes of it constantly dieing at stops before it relearned to adjust for this problem. do you think its the idle air control valve or a fuel problem or electrical
  • I have a 2000 Chevy Silverado. My truck ran out of gas while I was at a parts wholesaler getting parts for another truck. I new my fuel pump was going bad so I figured that was the prob so i bought one and put it on. When I turn the key forward the pump will not run. I checked all fuses and relays and they were good. I stuck a test light into the harness and got nothing. What could be killing the power to my pump?
  • danysdanys Posts: 4
    i there you must have a fuel pump relay under hood check if you have power on both side of relay if not fuel pump relay blown it happenned to me on a 94 sierra and 2002 silverado
  • yea I checked it earlier today and I had power on both sides but the 15amp fuse next to it did not have power to it and the book said that fuse was the Ignition, Fuel control(relay)
  • I've had the same problem with my 2000 GMC Yukon with 5.3 motor, and also in my 2003 Siverado with 8.1. Stalls all the time, the motor with serge up and down, bad fuel mileage etc... Did tune ups, changes fuel filter, had injectors cleaned several times, and no codes would come up. Finally found my problem, you have to take the black intake hose going to the throttle body off. There is one big hose clamp that holds it on the throttle body, just take this off and look inside the throttle body and there will be a butterfly, carbon is restricting the air flow causing the butterfly to surge by opening and closing causes the vehicle to start and stall, and stall when you let off the gas etc. So take the rag with gas on it and reach in hold butterfly open and clean the top and bottom of throttle body where butterfly closes. hope this fixes your problem iit did for me.
  • danysdanys Posts: 4
    yes that his th one just change it should solve prob and yu could check also harness going to back of thruck by driver door
  • I got it running last night. I changed all the fuses and the truck would start but then cut off so i added more fuel. Now it is running better then it had in the past 3 years. I took it to the dealership for 2 years after i bought it because it wouldnt start right and they wouldnt replace the fuel pump and keep saying that wasnt the prob. It was. Thanks for the info!!
  • elamcupelamcup Posts: 1
    Have you fixed the problem yet?

    Tom
  • Fixed fuel pump in unusual way. Have a 99 GMC Sierra 1500. Found this website. http://www.myhonestmechanic.com/articles/1999-Nissan-Maxima-engine-wont-start.sh- tml We replaced the fuel filter and then did what it said and it worked

    "If the engine turns over and over but won’t start...I would have someone bang on the bottom of the fuel tank with a rubber hammer or block of wood AS you crank the engine over. This can help kick start a weak fuel pump. If you still can’t get it to start...you will need a mechanic and a tow truck I am afraid. There is not much a do-it-yourselfer can really do these days without the proper tools and manuals."

    Hope this works for someone else too. It saved us over $300.
  • yea, I ended up changing all the fuses and added another gallon of gas and it fired right up and is running really good now.
  • hydro28hydro28 Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 gmc sierra with a 4.8. It idols rough, it's worse when the engine is cold and spits and sputters when you try to take off. The check engine light is on i took it to auto zone and they first thought it was the mass air flow sensor so i replaced that with no luck. and then they said it was probably the fuel pump. so i replaced the fuel filter and it ran good for a few hours and then went to back to the same as before. Do you think that it is the fuel pump? :confuse:
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Sounds like it could be your IAC Idle Air Controller. If it's dirty that would probably your culprit.
  • I had the same kinda problem but it was when the engine was warm. I would have to tap the gas peddle to get the truck to start but if i hadnt drove it for awhile it would start right up. I just changed my fuel pump and it is running great now. The fuel pump cost me 280.00 and I put it on my self with no prob.
  • az32guyaz32guy Posts: 3
    I have now had 3 fuel pumps in the last 15,000. The OEM fuel pump was replaced with a FG0089 modular fuel pump sending unit. 6 months later it failed and was replaced with a FG0089. 8 months later this one failed and was replaced with a FG0089.

    Just 10 days after the 3rd fuel pump was installed the Tahoe turned over but failed to start. After being towed to the shop and the shop tries to start the Tahoe and it starts.

    Now I am going crazy I need the vehicle to work.

    I do some checking and find there are 2 fuel pumps for 1999 Tahoe's the FG0089 and the FG0090. My VIN # states my vehicle had the OEM FG0090. The shop says there is no difference and they will not replace the current FG0089 because it is testing 58 psi pressure.

    What can I do?
  • Sorry about your frustration. To my knowledge, both pump assemblys are the same with an exception of a hose. One is for California emissions and one for Federal. I would focus more on troubleshooting the problem, either pump should work fine.

    With this many pump replacements, I think the diagnosis is wrong. Just for info a poor ground to the pump will cause it to go bad early, and also give a false impression of a bad pump. Ground is skipped during checking by fellow techs most of the time. Recomend checking to see that all small ground straps near battery, engine compartment, and chassi have good connection and havent been removed due to some other repair.

    Let me explain what has to happen in order for your pump to come on. I will explain it in slow motion because it happens quickly.

    When you first turn your key to on (run position) not to the crank position yet. Your pump gets a 2 second prime to pressurize the system. Power from the PCM trips your fuel pump relay for 2 seconds. When your switch reaches the crank position and the PCM see's that the engine is trying to start, it trips the relay again to turn on the pump. If a ground signal from the oil pressure swich is not noticed in 2 seconds, the PCM will turn off your pump.

    So this is what has to be done to diagnose this; If it doesn't start but cranks, and the pump isn't coming on. Verify power and ground to the pump. Power wire is usually grey, and ground is usually black in color. Use a digital volt meter or equivalent and hook it to the power wire to the pump and turn the key on. You should see near battery voltage on that wire for 2 seconds. Same proceedure for ground. If both check out, and pump still isn't coming on, bad pump. If there is a ground or power failure then there is some other issue. With this many pump replacements, I suspect a poor grounding some where.
  • BOO to Chevy for all these darn fuel pump problems. Granted, not every post is truly a problem with this unit, but the failures are widespread.

    I have been getting lazy in my years, and all I can say is that I am glad I paid the dealership to replace mine because parts and labor are guaranteed for life. And it's a darn good thing I did because I need to take it in AGAIN! You would think they would put in a sound replacement when their profits are on the line! :mad: :cry: :sick: :lemon:
  • I don't know of any OEM part that is garanteed for life. I also question a life time garantee that includes labor. I suggest you read the fine print. Dealers garantees are usually anywhere from 90 days to one year parts and labor. After market pumps sometimes have a live time warranty. However, I did try a warranty one about a month ago on a customers car and the manufacturer is no longer in business.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Fuel pumps aren't the only problem. Has your window motor blown yet? I see more window problems than fuel problems. I guess GM must agree since they no longer sell the motor and assembly together. To save on warranty costs they are now individual units.
  • 2doorpost2doorpost Posts: 74
    2005 Silverado- Same thing at 36000 miles-

    There is a switch/sensor/solenoid on top of the gas tank that is tied to the emissions system on the truck. These go bad .

    I was told by the dealer, if you have a tendency to top off your gas tank, it shortens the life of the solenoid.

    Go to a dealer who actually reads their Service Bulletins and stop "shot gunning" the problem with gas caps and Code Resets.
  • az32guyaz32guy Posts: 3
    THANK TO ALL FOR THE INPUT.

    I was told from the VIN# one pump is 55 psi and one is 60 psi. I will also check the ground completely
  • I have a 94 GMC XL truck 350 Motor, 2 Wh. drive,
    and went to leave a place the other day and it would not start, it would turn over but not start. No gas is getting to the cauborator. We changed the fuel filter and hope that it is not the fuel pump. Any help would be appreciated.
  • i just changed out my motor in my 96 tahoe and nnow it has a problem when it warms up it studders and kinda acts like its gona die my mechanic said it was a fuel pump so i changed it and still the same thing it also has a new fuel pressure regulator but im still low on pressure and running horribly anybody have any ideas
  • If your still low on pressure after a new pump and reg, test for fuel injecter leak. Close off return line and turn pump on by turning key to run position. If the pressure still bleeds off, you got an injecter stuck open(leaking). Of course there is always a possibility that the pump you put in there isn't supplying enough pressure. Your taho should have about a minimum 55psi fuel pressure to run right. Find a sutible place to disconect the pressure line like at the fuel filter. Put a pressure guage right on the end of it and clamp it tight. Should read about 60-70psi done that way and will indicate that the pump is working ok. Only thing left, fuel injecter leaking. Sorry.
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