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Mercury Milan vs Toyota Camry



  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,667
    I would love to. In the meantime, I will be waiting for someone to prove to me that it is possible to get one for $5,000 off so I do not waste my time. So far, the best deal I have ever seen and/or heard of is $500 below dealer invoice, which I can understand. But $5,000 ???

    Recent posts in the prices paid forum are saying that dealers are not willing to go anywhere near that low.
  • We are not talking about $5000, but rather $4000 below MSRP for XLE.I think it is reasonable discount for end of model year. Otherwise why to buy 2007 Camry when you can by 2008?

    Just do not be shy and persist. If they are not cooperative - just go to another dealership. There are more cars than buyer.
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    The key to getting a good price is to EDUCATE yourself.

    Know before you go how much you are looking to finance and how much that will be per month. Use payment calculators.

    Always negotiate up from your price.

    Always have a good idea what the invoice cost of the specific car you want to buy is.

    Always have a good idea of what the car you want is going to cost you in round numbers per month.

    Don't let the dealer get you into conversations about how much you want to spend per month. This marks you as uneducated. Respond by saying "I'm only looking to test drive today."

    ALWAYS ALWAYS reject dealer added accessories and "market value adjustment"

    Always remember that it is more important to get the car you want then to settle for the one you don't over a few hundred dollars. Just be rationaly about it. If you pay a fair price as indicated by the TMV on Edmunds, the be happy that you get the car you wanted. Don't let your ego about saving an extra few dollars stop you. Remember that your time has a money value also.

    Never walk into a dealership and say "just give me your best price" this marks you right off as someone who didn't do their research and you will end up paying more.

    Always be ready to make an offer. You have to be specific, or the dealer will just try to hammer you to get you to agree to the number he just presented.

    Never say "Well I need you to do a little better on the price" Dealer will just respond with "Wow, I wish I could, but we never let this model go for less than what I'm showing you...." then dealer makes you an offer and you surrendered your position.

    Say things like "I would BUY this car for an extra $200 etc. discount" or "I would by this car if you gave me another $___ for trade in value.

    Remember though that you should negoiate the selling price of the car you are being seperate from the car you are trading.

    Until you say you are ready to buy that specific car then you will not get the best price.

    Never negoiate the monthly payment the dealer can do all sorts of things to lower the monthly payment without lowering the price of the car.

    People say they hate to negoiate but if that were try then dealers would have stopped doing it a long time ago.

    You need to accept the fact that you want to negoiate and you need to learn the right way to do it.
  • Actually once we dealt with a Toyota dealer who would not budge Camry. After long and heated debate including insults from salesmen we sent complain to Toyota headquarters. After that dealer called us sheepishly asking come back and negotiate for better price. But we said – hell no, we already bought car.
  • scape2scape2 Posts: 4,119
    that a Camry like optioned to a Milan will cost you about $3,000 more. You need to ask yourself is it really worth it? If it is to you, go for it by all means. This holds true for any vehicle by the way. Buy the car YOU really like and want, not what the media tells you to buy or the masses may buy. There are many choices in this segment to choose from. Test drives are free! ;)
  • Media, media, media. I was wondering how long it'd be before I heard that old drum beating again :)
  • My 2002 Camry has many door rattles that spew thru production of the new RAV today. Still, after 5 years and 65K, today was the first time I was to a dealer for a non-oil change appt. I had a selenoid go....coverged under my warranty. I did replace my front brakes once, not the back ones yet. I never had this with my Fords. They were more fun to drive and cost much less though.
  • I have my Sable for more than 5 years and 90,000 miles and did not have a single problem - only oil and coolant change.

    But front struts wearing out and becoming soft, but still car handles and holds road better than new Camry. In Camry struts are soft from day one. But if you compare it with Maxima - well there is no comparision. Maxima behaves more like muscle car.

    BTW brakes are another problem with Fords. They make them spongy and no brake flush solves the problem. But for commute it is okay - I did not have any problems with brakes so far (mostly with stock tires that I replaced with better ones).
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,665
    The pedal can be spongy but it doesn't affect the brake performance. My Lincoln LS had great brakes - even better with Porterfield pads - but it was still a bit spongy. Stainless steel brake lines helps a lot.
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    I find Ford brakes to be very progressive. Compared to Nissan and Mazda brakes which I feel are touchy. Its more of a style in my opinion. I think Ford brakes are easier to modulate.

    The Maxima with CVT is a total ROCKET! To bad the interior is so icky.

  • Yes, Maxima interior sucks (as well as exterior). My wife refused to ride in Maxima because of interior design and quality, but for me it was fun. Still I would not buy Maxima because it does not feel as premium car despite of price..

    Regarding Ford brakes - I got impression that air somehow finds way into brake-lines. In Sable I just do not feel that I can stop car as quick as in other cars. Of course I do not consider Camry as a “car” more in terms of appliance. So I compare to good FWD cars like Honda or Nissan. Did not try Aura or Malibu yet though. Malibu classic I remember had even worse brakes than Sable. Ford needs to put more engineering effort into brake design because Ford cars are pretty dynamic and need good breaks.
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    I've noticed that if i'm in a parking lot doing 5 mpg and I need to stop sudden cause of a car pulling out unawares, my foot goes all the way to the floor. On the other hand if i'm at highway speeds, I can easily kick in the ABS if I push the brakes hard enough. Almost like there is less boost at parking lot speeds.

    Lots of Nissans have "break assist" Not sure hoe people react to this over the long term.

    Keep mind that 1st and 2nd Gen Sable basically had a 20 yo braking system. My family owned 2 First Gen Taurues growing up and the only mechanical issues those cars ever had were bad brake rotors, CV joints and one had a fuel pump that went bad at +120,000 miles.

  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,665
    Lots of Nissans have "break assist"

    I don't usually need any assistance - I can break things all by myself!
    ;) :blush:
  • I do not know what that means - but Maxima allows to drive car very dynamically - I can always reliably stop the car. Cannot say the same about Sable. Mine is 44th generation. Even though it is nothing else than Taurus - it feels more luxurious.

    New Taurus/Sable has very nice interior - almost like in luxury car, IMHO, especially black one. Fusion and Milan lack in comparison. Ford has to fix interior because people want premium feel, at least in case of Milan – it supposed to be premium vehicle. Most materials are good but switchgear feels cheap, driver’s armrest is too short (in Malibu and other cars it moves forward), steering wheel looks weird, dash storage compartments have cheapo lids or no lids at all.
  • I've driven Fords for years and the feel that you describe is not normal.
    It may be a leaky master cylinder. You should bring it in for warranty service and tell them the symptoms.

This discussion has been closed.