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2007 Suzuki SX4
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Comments
Not really a good blanket statement..
"I" survived because I grew up and learned to drive long before automatic transmissions become as common as they are today. Additionally I survived the early days of automatics by having only RWD vehicles available.
It's a changing world, a RAPIDLY changing world..!
You won't find me driving ANY FWD if there is even a remote chance of encountering a low traction roadbed and I will NEVER own one to drive. I might accept a FWD with a stick shift but the selection of those is pretty meager and growing less every day. 2007 RAV4 as a perfect example.
I think you're over-reacting about FWD as millions have driven them without incident in winter. Personally I prefer them, but to each their own.
Maybe you should look at the VW Golf which, the Cdn brochure states, has "EBA - Electronic Braking Assist prevents compression-induced skidding in slippery conditions".
You survived because of some skill, some smarts, some decent technology and WHOLE LOT of LUCK - as do all of us!
tidester, host
I'm thrilled.
So far, it's taken 14 days to get between Kelowna and Edmonton.
And really not happy with the dealer service.
I'm in New York, there are tons available...
There are also 5 different dealers within 10 miles. They're all combined dealerships, the one I went to is a Jeep/Subaru dealer as well.
There seems to have been 1 Suzuki trained sales rep, I got to work with a Jeep rep who was nice enough (didn't have to say anything to me, though, I knew I wanted the car)
The other one cannot get the car in until late March.
I LOVE the SX4, but I'm afraid Suzuki are going to lose the deal this time.
I actually have a great deal of confidence in the car, from reading the manual... although it definitely gives the impression that this is vehicle designed to be driven as a fwd vehicle and only activate the i-awd in specific situations...
The only thing I'm considering right now is aftermarket wheels/tires.... I just don't know how much clearance there is for wider tires... I want to go to 17" wheels and the tires would end up being 1.2" wider than the OEM tire/wheel combo...
I just think the stock wheels are ugly, and I wasn't going hand over any extra money to the dealer.
That is, as I'm accelerating (for a freeway merge, etc.), if I stabilize my speed for a second, freeze my foot position on the gas pedal, and disengage the clutch, there's no revving. Then, I don't lower the gas pedal until I'm ready to re-engage the clutch. It definitely takes some concentration to achieve a totally seamless re-engaging, but you get used to it.
I sometimes hear a rattle above the radio too. It puzzles me because the fit and finish of the SX4 is generally better than any other economy car I've ever been in, and even some non-economy cars. Keep us updated on what you find out.
Of course I try - but it's like driving a military transport - the gearbox makes more noise than the entire rest of the car and tires combined. I think my drivetrain losses are easily 10% more than most people.(ie - I get about 2mph less than I should).
But it sure is nice to not have to touch the clutch at all in 4-low.(stallproof in first)
Should I be honest and pay the extra $1K and get the local silver car?
You could ask your local dealer to match the price - you might be surprised at the answer (or you might get yelled at, LOL). :shades:
I confronted the other dealer, on the phone, about his "rebate" (his word) and said that I am not in the military nor a recent college grad (pretty obvious by looking at me) and he was silent.
It is pretty clear that he is faking the rebates.
Meanwhile, I'm not inclined to leave $1,000 on the table, although there is something to be said for having a local dealer go to bat for you if you have car problems.
It looks like you are on top of the True Market Value numbers from your recent posts over in the Suzuki SX4: Prices Paid & Buying Experience discussion.
You may want to check out the Rebates, Incentives, APRs - Questions & Comments discussion too.
I've personally never had problems servicing my vehicles at another dealer. Heck, that's where the dealer earns their $$$, warranty a little less, but regular servicing is the big gravy.
If the automatic has a lock-up torque converter, and most likely it does, then the rpm will not vary and will be in direct relation to the difference in the final drive ratio with the manual. I don't think you would want to drive 80 MPH for any distance with the manual, because the engine noise will be high and gas mileage pretty low.
Thanks.
Search here at Edmunds or google for:
"throttle lag" hesitation.
It appears that almost all FWD transaxles are now upshifting upon a FULL lift-throttle event in order to prevent or at least somewhat alleviate engine braking on the front wheels.
The symptom you are describing for your manual transaxles could have the same origin, root cause.
Try releasing the clutch a tad before lifting the gas pedal, throttle, fully and see if that doesn't prevent the "nanny" mode.
Engine braking on the front wheels/tires can be extremely dangerous should the roadbed be slippery, snow, ice, etc. So it may be like the new shift pattern adopted for FWD automatic transaxles the engine coming UP in revs is simply the "nanny" mode rev-matching the engine speed to road speed to prevent any serious level of engine braking however short term.
Not sure I believe all this myself but the evidence is certainly beginning to point to a new "nanny" feature.
The 2007 RAV4, FWD, does not have an available stick shift. Too easy for the generally dumbed down US drivers to get themselves into trouble by downshifting a FWD on a slippry roadbed..??
Here in CT we have not had much snow this winter season, we had our 1st decent snow/winter mix of the season today (sad but only about 6-7 inches)
I have to say that this little AWD hatchback is GREAT (note I do have four goodyear snow tires) much more sure footed then my bigger Trailblazer that is for sure! Could use a tad more ground clearnce but its not poor. I can't say its better then my first awd car, which was an Audio 4000 Quantro - but it is pretty darn close!
thats all
John
2007 SX4 Automatic - 7800 miles
WORST DEALER EVER. They ended up committing fraud, and we have to take them to the court. Way to ruin my excitement.
So for $15,599 (includes destination) I can get a silver base SX4 w convenience pack and AT. I've pretty much given up on the idea of the MT after finding out it does 4000rpm @ 80mph.
I test drove this exact car for over an hour and found nothing wrong with it. It even seemed fairly zippy.
I guess it's worth $300 to get the color I want from the local guy and a car which I have driven for a long test drive.
The alternative car I was looking at was a base LX silver Kia Rondo for the same price. BUT, that car has no AWD, no roof rails, no mp3/wma, no intermitance on the rear wiper and no keyless entry. The thing I like about it tho is the nice styling and cargo area which is big enough for two people to camp in.
The gas mileage for both cars is about 24.
One extra thing I like about the SX4 is that I can remove the back seats, which I have no use for. Maybe this will allow the fronts seats to recline far enough to make a decent bed, especially if I put a short cushion on the cargo floor.
AWD would be a big help to me here in the snowbelt, especially since I take my dog into the state forests nearly every day. I'm thinking of moving to SC but I know I will be visiting the mountains in the winter just to see some snow. I doubt they plow and salt them much if at all. Plus, it would be fun to find some beach trails.
I know I could get 30mpg with a Honda Fit but I'd have to wait a long time to get one I liked. I drove a base model AT and it seemed like a toy. A sport MT would be fun but I'm sure I'd bust off all the plastic trim parts from the bottom, unless I just remove them and sell them on eBay.
I spent about 3 hours with this car an couldn't find anything wrong with it. It didn't even seem underpowered. At 80mph it turns at a very nice 3000rpm.
There are probably many others like me who live in the city, want a small hatchack with good gas mileage, and travel in snow/mountains fairly regularly.
Pardon my ignorance, but is it possible to import cars? I would be willing to dish out a few $k for a little "green" SUV.
I don't know if the traction control of the "sport" would have helped or not. Even if it were only capable of selectively applying the brakes to each wheel, it should. Since the car already has ABS sensors, traction control seems like it's worth doing.
I wonder if the dealer would swap a car after one day?
The first is the typical crud. It merely transfers power to the other set of wheels - so it's part-time 4X4 that uses tons of computers to compensate. But it's slow to respond and brain-dead as it loves to switch back and forth without your input. In short, it works about as well as a limiter-slip diff.(ie - barely at all except light mud and snow) Toyota, Honda, GM, Ford, Hyundai, and the rest all use this junk.
The Second is 4X4 with dual transfer cases. This allows you to run in 4x4 mode all the time, even on the highway. Volvo, Audi, and Subaru use a system like this and it works exactly like your typical big SUV. It's totally different than the rest. They of course market it as "AWD" but it's really a 4x4 sedan.(just they don't like the "truck" image and use different terms like "Quattro" and "AWD", which confuse buyers)
Oh - and it works.
I *think* the SX4 also has this - because you can manually override it and force it into all-time 4wd mode on bad roads.(ie - it's the first system, but with a lockout, which makes the computers get out of the equation)
ONE WHEEL DRIVE.
TC, Traction Control, traction braking and dethrottling is simply a method, a poor one, of feathering the throttle for those that have no experience driving on the slippery stuff.
It should be absolutely mandatory on FWD or front torque biased AWD vehicles, but only as to be a warning that you have encountered a slippery roadbed or roadbed section.
If you NEED traction, turn TC off and learn how to manage, "feather", the throttle in such a way as to bring the engine torque just barely up to the level of traction coefficient.
What we need to look for is either a 4x4 lock mode or a proper 4x4 "AWD" system that doesn't do silly things like that.
Me? I love my old 4-Runner. It's old, it's got off-road bits on it, and it's totally the anti-bling-mobile. But it's my off-road Tonka Toy
You want off-road capability, you gotta get a real 4x4.
Speak for yourself!
This is just a friendly conversation and if there are comments you don't wish to read then try that scroll bar over to the right.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Except.
If you have "auto" LSD engaged. In that case it will only brake the slipping wheel thereby sustaining a higher level of drive torque, 50% of which will now go automatically to the front wheel with traction. But read the caution note in your owners manual before using this mode.
An unaware driver can have the stearing wheel yanked right out of your hands in auto front LSD.
But I suspect your underlying question is if the TC "bits" used to implement the RAV4's AWD system, divert engine drive torque to the rear, really works.
I dunno.