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Honda Prelude 1997-2002



  • asethiasethi Posts: 76
    Thanks man! I think I have more problems with the gas pedal than the clutch in terms of feedback. I'm thinking of changing the spring behind the pedal as well. After all, this is the same car I used to enjoy when I bought it. Oh, and It's now got 50K miles on it.

    My MFT was last changed at 35K miles. I made sure they used Honda MFT - maybe that's the culprit? What do you use? I know that honda service normally puts in the regular oil, unless you ask for MFT. I'll get it changed again soon.
  • asethiasethi Posts: 76

    My prelude has 50K miles on it.

    I find it hard to believe what you're saying about the Proxies - are you sure you're talking about the T1-S? Never have I read/heard anyone saying any bad thing about these tires! I remember when I got them new, It was like driving an entirely different car - much better handling and control. These tires DO NOT "...loose traction all of a sudden and slide...". NO way! On the contrary, they "warn" you so you can stop pushing any further. That's the thing I like about these tires. Also, the traction on wet roads it remarkable.

    It could very well be the tire pressure as you've suggested (Thanks!), since I've been keeping it a bit high recently - still not above 36psi in front. I'll try reducing the pressure and see how it feels. I'll get the suspension inspected as well, you could be right about that too but I was not expecting this car to have any such problems at 50k Miles.
  • I chose to stick with Hona MTF, and do it myself. Now the traction problem...This time of year weather conditions can be a factor in loss of traction. It may not be raining but high humidity can make roads very slippery. I kind of enjoy it. You can move the car around and learn its slip points without the speed necessary to do so in dry conditions. You said Proxes were almost new, how many miles? Doug
  • canadianclcanadiancl Posts: 1,078
    I think the Lude may have a tendency to burn oil. When I had my 2000 SH, within the first 5000KM, the oil twice dropped to the mid-point between the top and low marks on the dipstick. I thought that was rather high consumption. In comparison, my wife's CR-V and my previous car, a '95 Maxima, the oil level almost never dropped between oil changes.
  • asethiasethi Posts: 76
    The proxies have about 3K miles or so, not sure. The weather here in MA is just starting to get worst (snow) and I'm a bit concerned. I'll get the suspension checked soon.

    Thanks for the help.
  • What is MTF? Also, when I floor my '00 Prelude from stand stills, my car starts to smell llke my oil is burning or something, but its not a fresh spring smell. Is that supposed to happen?
  • Hi all,
    I have the same problem with smelling oil burning when stand stills and high oil consumption. My 2001 Prelude just reach 2800 miles and I had to add 1 quart oil to keep the level in between the upper/lower marks. So you guys have the same problem? are there any suggestions? Go to the dealer and complain? I have installed cold-air intake system , header, and exhaust system. Would they be a problem for me to go to the dealer and ask for help of that irritated smell? Actually, that smell exist right at the begining when I bough the car. The dealer said because the engine was new so it had a layer of oil to protect it but that smell will be gone after the break-in period. But until now, that smell still exist. I have a though that the dealer may blame on the new accessories that I have installed for what ever I complain. Do you have any idea or suggestion will be a greatly appreciated!!!
  • asethiasethi Posts: 76
    MF - Manual Transmission Fluid :-)

    Don't worry about the oil burning smell, it's common when the car is new or after you get it serviced. It's the oil level that you should be concerned about. Let's all not give up on this and keep pushing on the honda people to fix this problem - this is a problem! Please keep everybody posted.

    racerzrx7: I'm sure they'll not like your mods, but you can try your luck. WHY DID YOU HAVE TO MOD THE CAR SO SOOOOOOOOON?????

  • Modding is all in the fun of having a Honda. It is almost...second nature.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    I 'm surprised everyone is talking about rattles coming from the rear of the car. My friend's '98 SH doesn't have any. I 've driven it a few times and also auto-x raced with it for a whole day. No rattles, squeaks or anything and this car is driven hard every day and has had 20+ races under its belt.
    Anyway, sounds like the '00s may 've had a bunch of defective shocks installed (they 're not really struts, they 're shocks) from the same lot. It could be a number of things, like bushings that may not be up to specs when built by 3d party vendor, or it could be because they say Preludes have half polyurethane half rubber (mixture) control arm bushings like the Type-R but I have not confirmed that. Urethane bushings tend to squeak because they 're too hard and need greasing often. That's one reason I haven't upgraded mine. Sometimes people get rattles/squeaks from aftermarket rear sway bars that come with urethane bushings. Bad shocks can definitely make noises and I would go back to that dealer or another one and have the service manager get in the car with you while you drive and try to find some bumps to go over. You can also mention that you know others who had the same problem and had their rear shocks replaced. Sometimes all it takes is disassembling suspension components like control arms, end links, A arms, etc. and putting them back together again or tightening everything down and the noise is mysteriously gone. It's too much work for the dealer and they don't want to spend the time to find and correct the problem, that 's all. Usually if they drove the car and couldn't hear anything, they most likely didn't put it up on the lift to check anything. I bet if they grabbed hold of the lower control arms while the car is up on the lift, and started pushing them up and down, they 'd hear the noise, unless it's a coil spring problem and the springs need to compress in order to recreate the sound. It's very rear that you have bad springs though and the odds very slim. Call Honda and place a complaint. Also request they send down the regional Honda tech/troubleshooter to help identify the problem. Also keep checking the NHTSA web site for Technical Service bulletins. If more people come forth and complain about the same noise, Honda is bound to issue a TSB which makes the dealers aware of the problem and instructs them how to fix it. Also don't just search on your model year alone. Look at other years too, you may find your problem under another model year.
    Usually the only way to get something like this fixed, is to be persistent and keep bugging the dealer. Ask to talk to the general manager or the owner of the dealership and tell him you want him to get involved in getting your problem fixed.
    You 'll be amazed sometimes how the service mgr. jumps when the boss makes a phone call. Bosses are usually not technical, and don't care what the service mgr. says. They just want the customer to stop bugging them and will tell the service mgr. to do whatever it takes to get the customer off their back. Then you 'll see parts being replaced left and right. Usually at that point, the service mgr. will pick up the phone and call Honda and ask for their advice to see if other dealerships have reported similar problems, etc. etc. Good luck and don't give up!
  • My wife has brought her '98 prelude in about 4 times for the rear window rattling when it is cold out. Everytime they haven't been able to replicate the noise. When I went to pick it up today the service manager stated he couldn't find the noise. I stated that we have brought it in numerous times before and are we the only owners complaining about it. He stated that no there have been a few other owners that have brought their preludes in for the same reason and he has heard the noise in theirs.

    Has anyone else had this problem? And did they fix it? The service manager stated that I would have to speak withe the dealership manager and the Honda Manager about this?????????
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    Ah, I forgot about the cold pavement and having high performance tires. Yes, I have Bridgestone RE730 ZR tires and in the morning when it's cold out or the humidity is pretty high, they slide and lose traction easily if you don't watch your speed on the turns or when accelerating. Cold & humidity is bad combo for summer tires or ultra performance tires. I 'm in NY btw, and I just got 2" of snow Friday but luckily I don't drive the GSR that much. The Civic gets to tackle the bad weather..
    About oil.. This is probably not the case with you guys but something to watch out for. My GSR takes 4.3 Qts of oil but many oil change places only put 4qts in. This may give the impression that one's engine burns more oil than normal. I informed my mechanic of this and he now puts the correct amount in, and the dipstick looks a lot better with an extra third of a quart in the oilpan.
    You also can't really complain to the dealer if the oil level doesn't drop below the "add" or lower line on the dipstick. They 'll tell you that this is normal and only if it 's right on that lower mark or below, that it could be something to look into. In any case, I think that conservative driving and speed variance during the break-in period or at least the first 1,000 mi. is very important and may affect oil consumption later on. Most likely the "extra" oil consumption is inherent in all Preludes. I 'll have to go call my friend to see if his '98 SH burns oil now..
  • jk111jk111 Posts: 125
    shrug, modding a brand new car probably will void your warranty. So if something breaks, you will probably need to pay it out of your pocket.
    I think oil burning depends on your driving style. If you like to rev the engine a lot, more oil will burn. But Prelude does burn more oil than others. Adding a quart between oil change will be a good idea.
  • cota99cota99 Posts: 28
    What can I expect to pay in total for an automatic Prelude w/ floormats and an alarm? I'm in so. cal. Any dealer suggestions? Thanks....
  • I've never heard of this specific problem, but I have to ask, how do you know it's your windshield? the reason I ask is that it could be two things that do have a habbit of rattling - the first being your speakers. The second isn't so much of a rattling but a clunking - but that's from the suspension. The cold is the key though - something is contracting and getting loose, specially if you have no problems in the summer. When this happens again, try and duplicate the problem over and over again with different variances before rushing off to Honda. A clearly defined problem will be a lot easier to diagnose than a rattle coming from the back. We've all been there though, the problem goes away when take it in to be looked at - it's not really the mechanics fault - if they can't duplicate it then they can't fix it.
  • It's illegal for the dealership to void the warranty on a modded car unless they can prove that the mod is what contributed to the problem. For example, if you change your suspension setup and your motor blows, they really can't get out of replacing/fixing your motor. Now if your CV joints break, well - yer f***ed.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    modify your car when it's brand new. I couldn't do it. I waited until I had about 14k mi. on it and then modified the suspension. I know guys that replaced the exhaust with 200mi. on their new car! That baby was still shining with not even any dust on it. I don't have the heart (or money) to do something like that. Especially when all you gain is about 2-3hp and you 're out of $500-600. A Cold air intake is a different story. All you 're doing is removing all the useless heavy (about 30lbs!) plastic housing and resonator that robs the car of valueable power and replacing it with a nice ultra light (AEM - 7lbs with K&N filter) wider intake and adding a performance filter. That I can see. I regreted that I waited 14k mi. to do that.
  • Only1harry,
    I changed my exhaust system to the DC sport header and Greddy Power Evolution exhaust sytem with 400 miles on my new car. I love the sound of the high performance mufler and the extra push that the header provides. The AEM cold air system is of course a must with that setup. Why wait until 14K? unless you don't want to spend more money for the fun part. I don't race, but love to drive a such high performance car :o). And I don't see any minus side of not waiting until 14K.
  • asethiasethi Posts: 76
    Everybody has the right to do what they want to their cars. No arguments here, a header, exhaust and CAI are cool. BUT, I'd wait till at least the first service, and definitely after the break-in perior is over to make sure everything settles down fine. C'mon, you're not even supposed to red-line the car at 400 miles!!!
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    Anyone can do whatever they want and it's fun modding your car. 400 mi. is a little extreme though.. The motor has not even begun to brake in at 400mi. VTEC motors are fully broken in after 10k!
    GSRs, Type-Rs and Preludes get faster and faster up until 15k miles. This is the reason I waited till 14k mi. I regreted I didn't put the AEM CAI in earlier because it offered much noticeable power but I wanted the engine completely broken in before I started getting more power out of it. To me, suspension and brake mods are more important than bolt on mods. Not that I won't eventually have those on my car as well, but $1,000-1100 + labor for a header & exhaust doesn't provide (to me) as much fun as Type-R handling and braking for the same $$.
    My situation is a little different too because an extra 5-6hp (in a GSR, probably more in a Prelude) from a H&E won't get you anywhere in auto-x racing where handling & braking is almost everything and gets you trophies and loads of fun.
    Agility, control and stability are very important to me. It's fun watching BMWs struggling to keep up with you at 120mph+ on the highway when the road starts turning.. :-)
  • asethiasethi Posts: 76
    >..... at 120mph+ on the highway when the road starts turning..

  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    Near your neighborhood, on 287 :-)
    Don't try this at home boys & girls..

    I 've hit 140-141mph on 287 (w/speedometer error probably 135-6) and the tach was still around 7100rpm, another 1,000 to go! :) But I can never hit redline in 5th unless I had an S/C or turbo.
  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    One day, I was cruise at 70mph (with cruise control on) with my Prelude while I saw a speed monitor that tell you how fast you are going, it shows 63. Does that means the tach. on prelude is off by 10%? If that is the case, when the needle tell you that you are going 145, you are really only going like 131mph. Has anyone notice this kind of problem or it is the speed monitor?

    I have yet got a speeding ticket with my lude, so I am not sure, anyone?
  • asethiasethi Posts: 76

    Good thing I've moved to MA now! :-)


    If you have a G5, it's probably not that old to have such problems. Those speed monitors are not that accurate and it usually takes them a while to calculate speed. I'm guessing you were speeding, cause those monitors are usually at 20-30 miles speed zones. If that's the case then it probably didn't get enough time to calculate your speed.

    Looks like everybody here is speeding ;-) Take it easy guys, don't speed on city roads, what are the ramps for. ;-)
  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    I have a 99 base 5spd. when I went through the monitor, the speed limit is 55mph. (It is at the border of NY state and MA that tell every one to slow down b/c the speed limit in MA before you goes into NY state is 65. So, first off, I was not speeding(70 in a 65 zone is not speeding right?) Second, IMO, the speedo is a little bit off on the Lude and the reading on the monitor is also a bit off, and that might be the reason for such big a different(63 vs 70). Anyway, I normally drive 5mph faster than speed limit if the speed limit is 40 or below and 10mph faster otherwise, unless it is a straight highway with few cars around, I will open it up a little bit, but this is rarely done since Dec. 98 when I got 99 my Lude.
  • I just got an automatic 01 prelude at 22899 all by email. Edmunds showed 22930 as TMV so I had no problem paying 30 less.
  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    That is a great deal for a SS prelude, IMO. Congratulations.

    What color is your Lude, is it the silver? Please don't tell me it is blue.... Just kidding!
  • Yep it's silver.
  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    I am jealous, man! At the time I bought mine(99), silver is not available. I should wait for a year or so to get the silver. Instead, I got the white, which is the closest to silver...
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    Ok, here it goes. I 've been pulled over several times in my Civic and GSR. I also know exactly what the tachometer error is on the GSR. Prelude shouldn't be too far off since they 're all Hondas.
    Most of the time I get pulled over (don't have a laser detector yet, my radar is useless in NY but works wonders in NJ). The cops always clock me at 2 to 3mph less than what my speedometer shows, the same with my '97 Civic. I 'm usually going 80 and cops pull me over for doing 77 or 78. It's always these 2 numbers. Luckily I get out of most of these..
    Now I guess that at 140mph the speedometer error is a little greater than at 80mph...??
    Ok, speedo: When I had my car dynoed earlier this year, you can watch the tach and the RPMs on the computer monitor and of course you get the printouts at the end (I got the actual files of my dyno as well). Everytime the REV limiter kicked in the PC application/monitor showed that my engine speed was just about 8100rpm. The tach inside the car always showed between 8300-8400. So yes, the tach is off as well. In case of the GSR and all GSRs for that fact, the difference is always at least 250 RPM!
    Prelude should be the same because my friend's REV limiter in his SH always kicks in just shy of 8K RPM instead of 7600-7000. I think they design them this way so we shift when the tach needle reaches redline, when in fact we can shift another 300rpm later or when rev. limiter engages. Maybe they figure this might prolong engine life? don't know, your guess is as good as mine, but I guarantee you these small innacuracies in RPM & Speed are intentional.
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