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Honda Prelude 1997-2002



  • Now I look at 1992 Prelude Si 5-speed, 124,000 miles; moon-roof, spoiler, alpine cd stereo w/ detachable face, new - starter, distributor and timing belt. 1yr old - windshield, rear tires. 2yrs old - front tires, battery, exhaust. Power windows, mirrors, moon-roof. Sharp car with lots of pep!!! This is a must see...She asks $5000...
    She's the second owner and has this car since 1994.

    What do you think? Let me know ASAP.
    Again any help will be greatly appreciated.

    Streamwood, IL
  • First, many thanks to all that replied about my emissions control problem. Took the car to the dealer, here's what they said:
    "PO301 Cylinder #3 misfired
    It was a 1 time code that cleared and reset itself.
    Repair code retrieved/code (s)"

    Reason I'm posting this is that now the car just doenst seem as smooth as before the check engine light went on that day. When the engine is idle, there is this strange whirlwind noise, kinda like a chirping bird(a dove) and the car seems to shake more than usual in rhythm to that sound. The sound can only be heard at low rpms, maybe below 2500 and it happens randomly(or so it seems). I tried reproducing it at the dealer but at that time it sounded fine(go figure)...
    Gotta say that Im extremely dissapointed with this car, sure it handles like a dream, but Ive had more problems with it in about 6 months than I had in 3 years with my Civic Si.
    Anyway, any info on what could be the problem would be greatly appreciated.
  • asethiasethi Posts: 76
    I can understand your disappointment, but don't give up. Take the car back and tell them it's not the same. Raise your voice if you have to but don't give up. This is not normal for a car this new to get a misfire problem. Do you use premium fuel? I'd suggest you post this problem at
  • that it could be knock, so I'd suggest that, if you're not, use premium fuel. Sure it costs a little more every year, but go figure how much it will save you if you don't have to buy a brand new engine after knocking it to death (no pun intended). If that isn't the problem, take it to the dealer then.
  • People in the moderate snow belt ( like urban MA or CT ): what do you recommend for winter tires ?
    Dry (cold) highway performance a must.
    Has anybody heard of Goodyear Ultra Grip Ice ?
    Tirerack lists them as Z-rated (if you search by size) - I'm doubtful though. Any comments appreciated.
  • jsh139jsh139 Posts: 42
    According to Tirerack, the Dunlop Wintersport M2 or Blizzak LM-22 tires are H-speed rated and will give you very good dry handling with good snow handling.
  • asethiasethi Posts: 76
    I'm in MA. I bought Pirelli Winter Sports last winter and was pleased with the results. I use Toyo Proxes T1-S for summer so there's ofcourse a difference compared to them. The big difference is that the steering response is a little slow. They grip pretty well and I can still do ramps at speeds that I used to do with toyos. A little expensive though, I paid $800. Where in Mass are you?
  • Hi, I'm in Boston, so over 80% driving is dry roads, but my driveway is steep, icy, and rarely
    clean of snow in winter ( landlord has other concerns ). So I was looking at Dunlop Winter Sports, Nokian Hakka 1's, and Pirellis
    ( there are so many of them ),
    also Goodyear Ultra Grip Ice ( Z rated on, I think a mistake ).
    Some of them don't even come in 50 profile:
    55 is the smallest for 16 in.- not much performance then, also 205 is the narrowest,
    has anyone seen a 195 in 16 in. winter tire ?
    ( it is supposed to be narrow to roll well in snow ).
    asethi: I have same for summer tires !
    which Pirellis you got, and what size ?
    210s, asymmetric ones ? from who ?
    that expensive ? - with separate wheels or larger size wheel ?
  • I'm not sure if people looking for Preludes browse this message board, but nonetheless, I'll post my details here. I have a 2000 Premium White Pearl Prelude base model auto/SS with only 7300 low miles. It is in immaculate condition and has never been exposed to the winter elements (I parked it for the winter). It has some upgrades including custom ground effects, shaved emblems, two-tone black/white leather seats, and a factory alarm system. I'm asking $21,500 or best offer. Pictures at You can email me at Thanks, Steve.
  • asethiasethi Posts: 76
    I'm in Westborough and it's a little worst here. I did not have any problems driving in last winter's noreaster (8 inches of snow!). A steep icy driveway is going to give you a tough time no matter what tires you get - need to be carefull on icy roads.

    The Pirellis I've got are the 210 asymmertic (snow sport) ones in stock size on stock wheels. I got them from direct tire (, for $800, including free changeover every year. Could have saved some $$$ but I like to deal with local businesses - much better service.

    How are your Toyo's doing. Mine won't last another season (this was the 2nd one). I paid $800 for them too - pretty expensive for just 12 months use!
  • I posted my car for sale in Post #511 (see above). I reduced my price to $20,000 firm! This car can't be told from new. Please email me if you're interested.

  • nowakj66nowakj66 Posts: 709
    Hello Prelude lovers - any diagnostic ideas for me on my 1992 Prelude si would be appreciated.

    The Car has 80,000 miles and the timing belt was replaced at 60,000 miles after the car was 7 years old.

    Yesterday while idling at a stop light I heard a strange sound from the engine bay. There was a loud THUNK that sounded like it came from near my left foot near the pedals and then a squeal like you might hear from a vacuum cleaner when it gets hair caught in it or a power steering unit on an old ford when you crank the wheel over to hard.

    I have NEVER heard a noise like that coming from my car.

    So I hear this THUNK- (belt?) squeal. The timing belt has not broken because the engine is still running. I gently pull over in a parking lot and pop the hood. Nothing seems amiss (though I do not actually know what I am looking for). In any event the engine is idling quietly. I gun it gently - it makes nice honda sewing machine like noises.

    I gently drive home.

    SO what could this sound have come from? Prelude and Honda experts -- this is the 1992 model with 2.0 liter engine that makes 160 hp.

    Any other belts that could cause this squeak? Power steering? Alternator?

    I plan to take the car in Monday for my Honda dealer to look at. Any ideas as to what the problem is would be greatly appreciated.
  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    Did you turning the wheel when you heard that noise? If you do, that is the power steering pump that is on the edge. Otherwise, it might be any of the driving belt, fan belt that is slipping.
  • nowakj66nowakj66 Posts: 709
    Shmang - the car was not moving when I heard the belt noise and the tires were straight.

    Is there another belt besides the timing belt on these cars that could be making this noise?

    Thx. -- JN
  • I had a guy come into my stereo shop the other day (with the idential car as me--same year, color, tranny), and he told me that a dealer told him that ATTS Could be installed into his prelude for 5-6k? It just would void factory warranty. If you've heard of this please let me know. Any SH owners who have this, let me know if you think ATTS is worth the additional money. Thanks.

    -The Poon
  • Answer A.s.a.p !!!
    Hey guys, waz going oN? ...havent been on in a while, but I just need osme last minute advice before I store my prelude away. It's a 97 with a Neuspeed drop of about 1.5, or something close , don't remember, it also haz da skitz n all if dat matterz. The former owner of the car was telling me something about putting bricks or something like dat between the suspension and the car, I dunt rememebr exactly what he told me. Could someone tell me what I would have to do to the Lude while putting it away for 3 or 4 monthz ? Do I have to change any liquids or could I just leave everything as is ? ?
  • Same situation here and these are what I do:

    1. First I would assume that your car is gonna be stored indoors.
    2. Change oil & filter (A MUST).
    3. Wash & wax the car. Make sure the car is thoroughly dried prior to putting away for storage. Same goes for interior - make sure it's clean and dry. Clean the alloy wheels cos the brake dusts are very corrosive.
    4. Inflate the tires to approx. 5-8 psi over. This will prevent the tires from developing flat spots.
    5. Seal/cover the exhaust tips so moisture won't go in and build up inside the pipes.
    6. Remove the battery and place it on a block of wood. If you decide to leave the battery in the car at least you disconnect it.
    7. If the storage has a concrete floor then you may wish to place a thick piece of plastic sheet under the car (I use a 12' X 20' tarp) to prevent moisture invasion from the bottom.
    8. I personally do not put the car on blocks because this would make the suspension to sag and it would also put stress on the areas which are not designed to tolerate. If you do wish to jack it up, then you want to put the blocks under the lower arms instead of the frame - this will still save your tires and bearing and prevent the frame from bending. For me, I would just inflate the tires to 38 psi and move the car back or forth once in a while. That'll be just fine.
    9. Leave the parking/emergency brakes OFF. Put the transmission in gear or block the wheels.
    10. Start the car at least once a month and let it run for 15 min or so. Run the A/C at high temp setting. This circulates the lubricant in the compressor and removes the moisture inside the cabin. NOTE: if the weather permits and the road is clear, you may wish to take it out for a spin. Some suggest that you don't run the engine at all during the storage if you don't drive it at all, since the engine would not reach the temperature high enough to remove the moisture build up in the engine and exhaust (simply running the engine at idle would make it even worse). Anyway, the decision is all up to you. Just make sure you have good ventilation when running the engine.
    11. Fill up the tank and add some fuel stablizer in it so the gas won't go bad over time.
    12. Keep the wiper blades off the windshield by supporting the arms with folds of towel or something.
    13. Lube the weatherstriping with some silicone spray and wax its mating surface.

    These are what I do and you can tell that I'm very anal about my car :)

    Hope this help.
  • It is possible but not worth it doing it 'cos you'll need a SH block, a manual tranny, a whole ATTS system, a SH front suspension, and a Type SH emblem. You might as well just go buy a new SH. By the way, the ATTS worths every penny of it you can ask every SH owner.
  • thanx for the advice eggparm..very much appreciated. So if i just put my car on a big piece of plactic, and deflate the tires a bit, even though I got that neuspeed suspension, I will be alright ? Somebody was teling me If I leave my car alone for 3 monthz, that the brakes might jam or something like that...Nonsence righT? and its stored in doorz...thanx again
  • Hey man, you need to INFLATE the tires instead of deflate them. Don't worry about the suspension it'll be just fine. The brakes might jam if they are not completely dried prior to storage. So after your last car wash you want to drive it a little bit to get the water out of the brake system and other components (instead of just wash it and store it). Moving the car back and forth once in a while during the storage can also assure that your brakes are fine. Good luck!
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