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Honda Prelude 1997-2002

17677787981

Comments

  • nyccarguynyccarguy Stamford, CTPosts: 7,715
    it looks like we are the last of the mohegans. We've got to keep it going.

    Have you switched motor oil from the factory reccomended 5w 30? My next oil change (soon as I've got 107K miles), I'm switching over to 10w 40.

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2011 Pilot EX-L 4WD, 2015 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Premium

  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    Why using 10W-40. Yes, it is over 100K, but mine still runs perfect (I would assume yours are the same). Switch to heavy grade oil is to prevent over heat or leakage - which is not typical for Honda engines.

    Most new Honda use 5w-20, so I tried to mix 5w-30 (3qts) with 5w-20 (to top it off) about 30k ago and it works fine. As long as you do not have any carbon build up - you won't as long as you use good gas (91+ Octane and name brand) and do some highway speed long (20+ miles) drive from time to time.

    But, if you have minor leakage or other engine related symptoms, you could try 10w-30 to see how it fix the problem - I doubt it will help any unless it is seal related.

    Now, my Prelude took an early retirement and only need to work 1-2 days per week, so hopefully, it will last for a long time.
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Stamford, CTPosts: 7,715
    There is a guy at the local auto parts store that used to have a Prelude that knows WAY more about cars than I do. His car had a boat load of miles on it (I think it wa a '99) and it got stolen from his garage. He recommended I do it. That's what he did with his Prelude.

    My car doesn't leak any oil, the engine is remarkably clean, but it does burn oil. A little more than a quart every 3K miles.

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2011 Pilot EX-L 4WD, 2015 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Premium

  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    but it does burn oil. A little more than a quart every 3K miles.

    Well, I know some says that the 5th gen. burns oil. Since mine does not, so I am not sure what is the problem. Maybe due to the high RPM? seal? If that is the case, the 10-W40 might help. Give it a shot and see what the result is. But, according to the user's manual, 10-W40 will not provide as near the level of protection at start up (vs. 5-W30).

    Good luck though.
  • h4lhondah4lhonda Posts: 1
    ahhh, cryo treatment only affects the hardness (abrasion resistance) of the rotor and does nothing for its heat tolerances, one i know this because i have used power slots cryo rotors... two i am a mechanical engineer... what is needed are HEAT TREATED rotors which no one makes, a whole new fixed caliper system, or try DBA discs which are supposed to be very good heat at dissipation which i have never tried but look very logical.... i am not discounting caliper freeze or the fact that you are not using appropriate pads (since different pads make their peak Co-efficient of friction at different levels) if your using one that peaks at extreme temps all your doing it heating up the rotor till the pad works and once the pad starts to bite your way past the temp range for the rotor and its warping... you need a pad that peaks friction levels at very low temps aka a pad with alot of bite (or torque)...i own a bb6... hope this helps!!!!!
  • tybrantybran Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Honda Prelude. I want to install a cold air intake. What is the best intake for my car and how much should I expect to pay.
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Stamford, CTPosts: 7,715
    7 years ago today (4/27/02) I took delivery of my Prelude. 110,000 miles later and I'm still smiling.

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2011 Pilot EX-L 4WD, 2015 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Premium

  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    Mine is 10 years on 4/12/09 with 113K miles and up to today, I have no regret on my decision back then. Sure, it is not perfect, but it fit me need (sporty, great handling with plenty of power and a head turner. The most important thing - reliable). In my 10 years of ownership, the only thing (other than regular maintenance) that I did to my car is: Replace the front struts and that's it. I will expect to get another 5-10 years of service out of it - if I am going to keep it, that is.
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Stamford, CTPosts: 7,715
    Very cool.

    I plan to keep my Prelude as a daily driver for at least another 3 years, until it is 10 years old.

    Right now my short list for my next vehicle are:

    MINI Cooper S - Black/Black 6 speed manual
    BMW 135i - Space Grey/Red Leather 6 speed manual
    Porsche Cayenne S - I'd have to pick this up as a CPO or DEMO, the only car I'd ever consider driving that's an automatic.

    How's your M45 doing?

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2011 Pilot EX-L 4WD, 2015 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Premium

  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    All 3 are excellent choices.

    I would pick the BMW 135i with 6 spd though - simply due the the low weight and high output, Of course, it is a BMW. But, I would be glad to take the other two without hesitation at all.

    As the economy stands right now, price of cars are going up, especially CPO cars, so if you do decide on the Cayenne S, you'd better get it quickly. I doubt there will be much change in price for the other 2 though.

    The M45 is doing good - did some maintenance work on it - Driving belts, filters, put on new tires (Got rid of those all season ones and replace with Summer high performance ones and it handles much better). Did the oil / filter change and it is all set for the next 2-3 years until I need to flush the tranny fluid. :shades:

    The only problem with the M45 is the gas mileage due to the NFS - If I drive it conservatively, I can get to 23MPG, but, I only get about 17-18 most of the time even in Texas with minimum traffic :blush:
  • preludefanpreludefan Posts: 17
    Yeah - I just realized mine is burning oil too but no leaks. I moved to synthetic at about 50K - now up to 70K. I don't change oil myself and the shop never told me but this time, I let my car go 7k without and oil change and the warning light came on, so I guess I must be burning lots.

    I do primarily hwy driving. Don't smell anything when driving though, so I'm surprised at how quickly it dropped.
  • preludefanpreludefan Posts: 17
    Hey there - any recommendation on TIRES for the Prelude SH? Time to get new ones and wondering if you would select anything other than the Bridgestone Performance ones recommended by Honda?
  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    R U sure it is burning oil instead of some kind of leak - when the low oil light comes on, you only have about 2 qts of oil or less left. So, if you do oil change every 5K and this time 7K, that means by the time you change your oil, it will be 2.5+ qts low. It just seems weird to me. I would check for several things in the next 5k miles:
    1. Any oil leaking from underneath the car - from the drain bolt and filter area
    2. Check oil level immediately after the oil change
    3. Check oil level at least once per month and keep track of oil consumption

    Some Prelude burns oil, but very few is that bad to cause the oil light on.
  • preludefanpreludefan Posts: 17
    Thanks for the reply. One other thought is perhaps the shop cheated on the amount of oil they put in. That's one way to goose profitability. But a risky venture for sure. I doubt it, but you never know.

    I park my car in my garage and there is no oil on the garage floor, so if it's leaking, it's not obvious.

    I'll have to mention it to the shop and have them check. I wish I had more time to do myself, but not at this stage in my life - career on the road, young kids, etc. I'm just happy to keep my Prelude!

    I'm also in the market for new tires. I went to Tire Rack and it said that the Bridgestone Potenza's got the best ratings and those are the ones recommended for this car, so I guess I'll stick with them ($102/tire). The Yokohama S drive came close in the ratings though ($89/tire)
  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    Sure. That's why I recommended item #2 - if they put in 1.5 qts less and your car burnt 1.5 qts in 7k miles (which is definitely in the normal range), that can trigger the oil light. But, just check them where you suspect there is a chance to cause low oil level and you will find out before your next oil change.

    As far as tires, it is totally depends on how you drive and your location. But, tirerack gives you very detailed information to help you to choose the right one. Good luck.
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Stamford, CTPosts: 7,715
    Hey, we all wish we could do more ourselves! What year is your car?

    Do you still have the stock bridgestone potenza tires on your car?

    I have the Yokohama S drive tires on my car and they are fantastic. Excellent wet & dry adhesion...just make sure you take em off the car before the white stuff starts to fall.

    Tire racks website is helpful, but their employees are REALLY helpful.. Call them up and see what they say.

    You said your car has 70K miles on it...have you had the timing belt/water pump/balance shaft belt service done yet? Have you had the spark plugs chaged?

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2011 Pilot EX-L 4WD, 2015 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Premium

  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    I guess you asked some questions that is way beyond what he knows - at least based on his post, he just like to drive the car and hand the rest to a mechanic type of person. I will do that when I lost interest in doing all the maintenance - maybe another 10 years from now though... who knows.
  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    My neighbor just traded in his 2007 Mazda 3 and got a CPO BMW 328i - It seems there are deals for BMW and MB - As he told me he could of bought the MB C300 instead if the color is right. Sounds interesting...

    I would do the same thing with my wife's car if she likes the feeling of sporty sedan like BMW, Infiniti. But, no luck yet, I am still working on that. :)
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Stamford, CTPosts: 7,715
    My best friend loves Infinitis. He just turned in an '07 FX35 Sport lease and his wife's truck is a QX56. He wanted another FX or maybe an M, but the lease dealsare no where near what they were 2 years ago. He walked into an MB dealership to drive an ML & E. He and his wife both LOVED the E350. He picked up a GORGEOUS, brand new, 2009 E350 4Matic with NAV & AMG package for a little more than $11K off sticker. He also got 1.9% financing for 66 months!

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2011 Pilot EX-L 4WD, 2015 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Premium

  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    Wow, $11k off sticker, that is an excellent deal, especially on E class Mercedes. Make me want to go car shopping NOW... ;)

    But, since I just got my M45 and is not ready to part with the Prelude, I guess I have to wait for couple of years. But then again, my son will be driving and I can get a sports coupe - something like the 370Z (or what ever is comparable at the time). Until then, I will need to do a good job maintaining my Prelude so I can still drive 2 cars that I enjoy alternatively, which is not too bad.
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Stamford, CTPosts: 7,715
    I'm definitely getting the itch, but I promised myself I'd keep my Prelude as a daily driver for 10 years before I get something else.

    Right now the car to get is a CPO BMW 335i sedan... I've seen people purchasing them for high $20s (2 years old).

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2011 Pilot EX-L 4WD, 2015 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Premium

  • preludefanpreludefan Posts: 17
    2000 Crystal Metallic Blue Type SH. It's a beauty - I detailed it myself this weekend. A nice relaxing job. Got lots of looks on the road and 2 compliments from a couple 20-somethings.

    I've decided to go with the Potenza RE760 Sports which got rave reviews on TireRack. The Yokohama's got great reviews too. Maybe I'll try that next time.

    Thanks for the recommendations on Service.

    I'll check out the timing belt/water pump etc . I recall that you guys recommended doing it all at once because of the close promixity.

    Also need a new Battery as I still have the original one but I don't think it'll survive the winter. Will pick up spark plugs at the same time.

    The other thing I'm thinking about doing is getting some paint work because I have some rust spots that need addressing. Small dings on hood and lower doors, but a bigger cracked paint area on my upper driverside door from another car opening their door into mine last year. It has already started rusting and the paint is chipping away, which is bad. I got an estimate to address everything and it's going to be about $2K, which is a lot of money. I might just pick and choose. Plus, I'm a little worried about the engine burning oil. The shop didn't find any leaks, so they suspect my engine is burning the stuff. I'll watch every 1K and check the dipstick.

    Other than that, I guess the only other major part expected to go is the clutch, which will also be expensive, but after that, it'll be like I have a brand new Prelude. We'll see....

    Still lovin' it though!
  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    Crystal Metallic Blue is my favorite color - too bad it was not available at the time when I purchased mine, so I got the white, which is my 2nd best choice. But....

    Since your car is 2000, the following need to be addressed ASAP:
    1) Timing belt & water pump - those are recommended to be replace at 7 years OR 105k miles, since yours is 8-9 years old, you are running on borrowed time. If the belt snap, you could have valve damage which will be very expensive to fix.

    2) Spark plugs and wires. Make sure to replace them both - even the wire looks fine. They will cause other electrical related issues like alternater and distributor short - this is from first hand experience.

    3) Manual transmission fluid if you have not done it yet.

    Good luck and let us know how the engine oil consumption results.
  • preludefanpreludefan Posts: 17
    This week, my ATTS Light and Check Engine Light both came on at the same time. I found that my gas cap was loose so that explains the Check Engine Light. But the ATTS light is concerning. Taking it into the shop.

    Hopefully won't need to do major service on the ATTS. If so, I may consider getting the clutch replaced at the same time. We'll see...

    Also, I've driven 1k miles since my last oil change and the oil level has not dropped at all - all Hwy driving. We'll see as it get closer to 3k... Just turned 69k on the odometer ( I think I rounded up in my prior posts)
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Stamford, CTPosts: 7,715
    I had my ATTS light & Check Engine Light go on at the same time one too. The problem was my OIL FILL cap was loose.

    Clutch replacement was a hard pill to swallow for me (Mine was fried at 52,000 miles). The ATTS unit has to be taken out & then re-installed in order to get to the clutch. This calls for an ADDITIONAL 4+ hours of shop labor in addtion to the clutch job itself. I'd also have the flywheel & throw out bearing replaced at the same time. Have them check your differential fluid as well. I decided to go with an aftermarket clutch (CENTERFORCE) which I am very happy with.

    If I recall, it cost me close to $2000.

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2011 Pilot EX-L 4WD, 2015 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Premium

  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    Wow, $2,000, at 52k miles - that is hard to justify. Mine still works at 115k - you must did a lot of high RPM clutch drop to destroy it ;)

    Hope it will last until you sell it though.
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Stamford, CTPosts: 7,715
    It was a tough pill to swallow. I really thought about getting rid of the car at that point. Type SH Preludes have abnormal clutch failure (which I didn't learn about until after I had the job done).

    Yeah, that's me, High RPM clutch drops...LOL!

    You've got 115K...I'm catching up to you. Going to hit 112K next week. You must be driving your M45 A LOT!

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2011 Pilot EX-L 4WD, 2015 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Premium

  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    Yes, I drive the M45 mainly and only use my Prelude on shorter trips or going to sports events (that I am performing, so I will not get the M45 all sweaty afterwards). When I think about it, it is kind of a luxury to use a Prelude as a beater, well, not really, but you get the idea. The Prelude is always clean though - it is still beautiful 10 years after I bought it.

    There are some guys I know that used to race Prelude and do 5500RPM clutch drop to get best 0-60 times and they have clutch replaced around 60k miles. Now, I am going really easy on start up - still hit VTEC once in a while for fun.
  • kevinus35kevinus35 Posts: 6
    Could someone check this VIN out: JHMBB6159XC008167? I'm buying it but the saler said the owner, his wife (he claimed), will not be there to sign the title off. Is there any chance of fraud?

    Thanks in advance,
    Kevin
  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    There will not be much can be found (as far as the owner goes) by running a VIN check, but it is for a '99 Prelude Type SH.

    But, I would not give him the money without a signed title - maybe he stole the car with title in the car and try to sell it to you. Otherwise, if his wife agree to sell the car, she can always sign the title in advance. Seems fishy to me.
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