Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

65/66 mustang the only stang worth a damn



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    If you can turn a doorknob and put on your own shirt, you can fix most things on a '65 Mustang. They are lovely cars with 1935 Buick technology and very good reliability for a car of that age.
    And just about every part is available either NOS or repro or used.


  • ndancendance Posts: 323
    I wonder how close you really could get to building a car from a catalog. Old mustangs strike me as good fodder for the concept. It seems to me that you could go as far as starting with just the 'tub' (by that I mean a doorless, glassless, 'egg' of sheetmetal running from the firewall, the roof and floor, and the floor of the trunk). You'd probably end up with $30k into a $15k car, but it might be fun.

    One variant on the car project I've thought about (this assumes that you're fairly well off) is how to provide a car for a teenager. Since modern ones are a tad on the shiftless side (well, aside from pitbull breeding, spitting, and wearing bare midriff clothing), my thought for a parent, is to buy a hulk of a cool car (a really early beetle or the aformentioned early mustang) and provide the money to properly restore it (in terms of parts, not other people's labor). This is the only car ever provided to the kid.
  • oh well back to the looking board. Looking at a 91 alfa now.
  • Just read through about 8 months of missed postings..

    Sorry you didn't catch that 65 michml320, but shifty is right easy cars to work on and a blast to drive. My two most important items to check for are rust and rust repairs, along with suspension issues.

    Ndance, a buddy and I though about this project as well a few years ago. I've seen a couple of photo alubums that show some convertable reconstructions that almost are new builds....

    bummer about the guy who puched the wrong button. I have a feeling there's more to that story though. I've ended up down the the wrong alley at work a few times by accident, if it's a random event it's always no harm no foul. But then , that's how it is here.
  • Hello,
    I have a '65 c-code Mustang convertible. The exterior is black with a white top w/ black interior. Put on slotted mags, b/c I got them for $40 for the set, but the offset is pretty horrible. Had 225/60/14s on, but downsized to 205s after putting on the mags. Anyways, I've done a few modifications to it. It has an ATK 302 with the original 289 heads, an edelbrock 4 barrel 600cfm electric choke carb, Edelbrock Performer RPM air gap manifold, true dual 3-chamber flows w/ an h-pipe and aluminized 2.25" piping front to back, stock exhaust manifolds (NO headers), stainless steel manual disc brake conversion in the front, gabriel striders in all four corners, Total Control Products upper control arms (NOT relocated), polyurethane spring perches, coil springs (~1 inch drop in front), 4 leaf standard eye leafs (stock rear ride height), export brace, front sway bar, K&N air filter, engine dress up (Mustang - Powered by Ford valve covers, chrome air filter housing, chrome dip stick), Pertonix ignition and coil, a Sony Active Black Panel cd player w/ 4.5" sony speakers in the doors. I have all the maintenance records dating back ten years. THe top is 3 years new, the engine 2 years and manual tranny (four speed T-10) is 1 year since rebuild. The car is an everyday driver. The interior is not bad by any means, but also not great. The decoding plate that tells everything about the car in stock form is gone. Found out it was a c-code built in Milpitas, CA from the vin number registered w/ DMV. California car still.

    No, I'm not interested in selling the car. However, I am interested to find out the market value for this beautiful car. Anyone care to venture either 1) how much they'd be willing to shell out for something like this or 2) how much the "market" would price it at? The body is straight, no rust, and no cutting, flaring, bending, or "permanent" modifications.

    Thanks for your speculations. Not running a test market or trying to "test the waters". I'm just curious.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    Very hard to value without looking at it, as it is now a customized car and won't work with standard price guides.

    Best you could do is figure the value for a daily driver Mustang convertible and presume yours would be worth less because it is modified.

    it's not so much that modifying the car is bad, as you've no doubt improved it in many ways, but that modifications are like jewelry, so personal that it is hard to find a buyer who wants exactly what you've done to your car.

    Just as a ballpark, I'd guess in the $8K-10K range would be where the action is for this car.


  • The year was 1980 and it was a quiet summer evening....

    My bride was out somewhere but her '66 V8 Mustang Hardtop (w Pony interior ) was sitting in our driveway 100 feet from the road practically hidden behind some trees on our rural property. We weren't using it and had taken it off the road about 6 months before.

    Suddenly a Pinto came hurtling up the driveway(if thats possible) with a smoke coming from the exhaust and a sweeter smelling smoke coming from the windows.

    Young man jumped out-

    " you gotta hold this car for me until tommorrow when I get back with the money "


    " youll have to call my wife - she's attached to the car and isn't sure what she is going to do, besides it's been sitting ther for 6months I'm sure it will still be there tommorrow - so call her"

    Essentially this exchange was repeated 5 times with this guy getting more concerned about losing out on the car and me repeating myself.

    Then he progressed to insisting on giving me a deposit to "hold" the car until the next day. Despite my repeating my statement(see above).

    Finally, I realized I wasn't going to get thru to this guy and took a $20 bill just so I could get back to whatever I was doing when he showed up.

    Never saw or heard from him again.
  • That's about where I placed it, too.
    Though, I thought more $10k-$12k, but I'm probably optimistic or taking into account the inherent Silicon Valley mark-up. :)

    Guess the modifications really do hurt the resale value. Oh, well. Like I said, I'm not interested in selling, but was just curious. Upgraded the car for my own enjoyment, not to make a profit from. Thanks again for your speculation.
  • parmparm Posts: 723
    I'd appreciate hearing any feedback and comments from 65-66 Mustang owners (particularly convertibles) who've installed suspension and subframe reinforcement kits from Total Control. How well do they improve handling? Do they help reduce body squeaks and rattles? Are they worth the money? Thanks.
  • I have TCP uppers installed on my 65 convertible. I absolutely love them and think they were worth the extra money. I went to Mustangs Unlimited, got them with no tax and no shipping charges. Unfortunately, due to the tire and rim combination I was unable to relocate them a la Shelby. I also have added polyurethane spring perches, 700lb/in coil springs and Gabriel Striders set at the stiffest level. The tires are Firestone Firehawk SH30 205/55/R14.

    A guy at Mustang Fever is tricking out his 65 fastback with the best the aftermarket has to offer. He put the whole TCP coil over front suspension kit, lower controls, tie rods, and TCP manual rack and pinion. I do not know whether he has TCP frame connectors or another brand. He claims it handles better than most new cars. He does clovers off the freeway in Silicon Valley at 60+mph w/out any problems. I do clovers at about 40 - 45 mph and break a little traction. My girl's 1990 celica GT does the same clovers at 35-40 mph. She needs new tires though.
  • bri66bri66 Posts: 220
    I am in the planing stages of re-building my 1966 289. I have read conflicting articles over the past few years relating to re-building an older engine to meet with todays un-leaded gasoline. I know that they sell an additive you can add to your un-leaded gas, but stopping short of that does anyone know if there is a better way than purchasing additives?

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    Well, since you are rebuilding it, all you need to do is use the proper valves and valve seats and you're done. I personally think that this worry over unleaded fuel is only a concern to older car owners who plan to use their vehicles for heavy duty work, such as towing or racing or mountain climbing. But if you are just putting to the next show, no problem.

    Other than that, you have to "do the math" if you are modifying your compression ratio in any way with special pistons or milling. If you end up with too high a compression ratio, you are going to find it hard to get the proper octane fuel.


  • parmparm Posts: 723
    Mr. Shiftright, I'm glad you broached this subject, because I've seen several ads for older cars in which they state that a car has "hardened valves" thereby allowing the use of modern gas.

    Can you briefly describe what "hardened valves" means? While I'm not a mechanic, I certainly know what intake and exhaust valves are and their purpose. Thus, hopefully you won't need to "dumb down" your reply too terribly much.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    It's not the valves but the valve seats, in the cylinder head, which are hardened using an alloy of cobalt, chromium, tungsten, molybdenum and iron, called Stellite. Without the lubricating properties of lead in gasoline, it was found in certain types of severe service that the valve seats would malform.

    So Stellite will prevent this from happening. Obviously, you are not going to be able to buy a lead additive for your fuel.


  • parmparm Posts: 723
    Is Stellite an additive available in most autoparts stores?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    No, uh-uh, it's a metal alloy.


  • parmparm Posts: 723
    I overlooked in your post #155 that Stellite is the alloy that's applied to the valve seats.

    Is hardening the valve seats an expensive process (what kind of shop does this?) and how does one know if its needed in their particular car?
  • speedshiftspeedshift Posts: 1,598
    I think you just buy hardened seats and have them installed by a machine shop but Shifty can answer that better. You can't buy lead additive but as I recall you can buy lead substitute.

    My suggestion would be to see if there are any '71-up heads that will work on the cars you like. 1971 is the year they made engines compatible with unleaded and lowered compression ratios. These heads not only have the hardened seats but (sometimes) larger chambers that give a compression ratio that tolerates 91 octane.

    This isn't always an option--I don't know if '71+ Cadillac heads will bolt to a '62 390 block, for example, although they probably will--but it kills two birds with one stone.

    Later heads are a straightforward swap with the GTO and Mustang you've been talking about. With the '62 Cad it gets a little complicated. You'd want a machine shop to check valve-to-piston clearance, and make sure the large chamber 472-500 heads don't give you a 6:1 compression ratio with the 390's smaller cylinders. And there'd be a port mismatch but I don't think that's a big deal.

    On second thought, just yank that puny 390 and bolt in an Eldorado 500.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    Yep, you just buy hardened valve seats.


  • parmparm Posts: 723
    While the link below is from a Pontiac-oriented website, it is germane to the most recent posts in this discussion forum. This link is for a detailed article that discusses the chemical composition of modern gasoline, engine compression ratios, the subject of gasoline additives and how well they actually work.

    This article may raise more questions than it answers, but it appears to be a pretty good technical reference source.

This discussion has been closed.