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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Climate Control



  • ranvonsranvons Posts: 4
    My blower switch/knob only operates at #5 now, they have been steadily going out one by one. The dealer wants to replace the entire relay module at $150. Is there a simpler less costly fix for this problem?

    Thanks, Randy
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Each setting is controlled by a diode. You can replace all 5 diodes for $10.
  • ranvonsranvons Posts: 4
    THANKS! But where the heck would I find the diodes, unless I am looking for the wrong thing, I cannot find it anywhere...HELP

  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    The are located on the backside of the controller. It requires that you remove the controller from the dash to work on. I'm surprised that the dealer didn't mention it as it is a common item that stops working every couple of years and for them is very easy to do. Not much profit though.
  • canam2canam2 Posts: 3
    The air that comes out is heated.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    See post #117
  • jacedjaced Posts: 1
    Im experiencing a problem with my a/c compressor. It's never engaging when I hit the button to turn it on. I stopped at a car shop yesterday and they told me it's charged with freon and that they think it is an electrical problem. Well since im an electrician not a mechanic I figured i might be able to trouble-shoot the problem. All fuses seemed to be ok by sight and checked good with my meter. The larger relay in the electrical box had continuity between two diagonal poles. Sorry for the length of the question, just trying to be informative. Thanks a lot, and I forgot to tell you it's a 2000 model chevrolet 1500 5.3 liter V8.
  • snowbugcasnowbugca Posts: 5
    You already got the diagnosis right. I just had mine changed. Cost about $560. (not at a dealer) the part is $210. I beleive it is the farthest left one. There is 3 or 4 of these motors on the HVAC. I don`t think the crack is the problem. Jim
  • canam2canam2 Posts: 3
    I have dual climate control and it has been blowing heated air out of the drivers side for some time now. I removed the blend door actuator that controls the drivers side. It appears there is a plasitc shaft that goes from the actuator to the "HVAC Box". This shaft is sheared off flush with the actuator. What is my next course of action? Can the broken piece be removed without tearing the dash apart? Im afraid there must be something blocking the blend door, that made is shear off in the first place. What kind of job is is to get at something like that?
    Thank you.
  • cfi62cfi62 Posts: 1
    I too have a similar problem. this is on a 2004 Sierra with dual climate controls. the blow is the only thing that responds to any controls. the ac button will not turn green when pushed. the dampers do not modulate when moved to another position and nothing but hot air is coming out the vents. also, the recirculate button light will not come on to indicate which mode it is in. any help would be thankful. I checked the fuses (ones that seemed involved with the ac and control) visually and all appeared ok. thanks in advance. chuck
  • maynor007maynor007 Posts: 2
    I have the same problem with my 2007 Avalanche LTZ. The drivers side AC works fine. The passenger side will start to blow heat after running for awhile. When the truck is shut off, the restarted, it will blow correctly. Then it will go back to blowing heated air on the passengers side, while the drivers side is blowing cold air. Dealer wants to take apart the dash to find the problem.
  • Hey all,
    Hope someone out there can help. Basically the Trucks AC was working fine and then the other day only blowing warm air. Ran the truck on a 20 minute trip with the AC on as I've heard it can take a bit to come on and still nothing but warm air. Check the refrigerant and it was fine. When turning on the AC you can hear/feel the power transfer as the motor send power. Took a look at the compressor and it was not turning when the AC was switched on. Got my hand down there and was able to move it so I know it's not seized up. Checked fuses in the cabin and under the hood that were related to the AC and all were good. Anybody have any idea what could be causing this? I'd like to fix it myself as I enjoy that sort of thing also would like to avid dealer pricing where ever possible. Thanks in advance....
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    There is only one reason for it blowing warm air and that's insufficient amount of R134a. You stated that you checked the refrigerant. Exactly how did you do this?
  • tracyh68tracyh68 Posts: 5
    The dealer told me that the actuator needing replaced is causing the air to blow warm on the drivers side and cold on the passenger side.
  • wstarneswstarnes Posts: 5
    Low refrigerate is never the root cause of a cooling problem, just a symptom of a another problem somewhere else in the system.Chevy P/U's are notorious for actuator blend door problems which can affect the ability to control the air or heat depending on where it got stuck or quit working..
  • my 95 pickup air control has 5 speeds they one by one went out til finally all have quit working, I have tested the blower motor and it works ..what is my problem and how do I fix I need to replace the whole climate control board..someone commented about a diode..what is that and where do u find it.
  • 2004 Silverado 1500
    My air conditioning will not turn off. If I turn the dual climate up to full heat and kick air flow to the defroster, I can temporarily shut off AC, but the minute I turn back to just letting air flow through, the AC kicks back on. My re-circ works fine, however. Is it a short in the electrical system?
  • tthoresotthoreso Posts: 3
    I'm looking for clarification of operation of the Automatic climate control as mine doesn't operate the same as my other car which is not a GM.

    When it is hot outside and very hot inside the cab, when I start my truck the fan goes up to 4 bars and stays there. If I turn the temp up a deg then back to the original temperature the fans goes full speed. But never reaches full speed if I don't adjust the temperature.

    My other car (Acura), same conditions, when you start the car it switchs to recirculated air and puts the fan full blast, then when it cools down inside the fan slows down and flips back to fresh air. To me this is how it should work.

    Can anyone else let me know if your works like my truck or the car?
  • seafarmerseafarmer Posts: 16
    Diodes are generally small & cylinder shaped with lead wires coming out the ends (axial leaded). They are directional allowing current flow in only one direction so be certain to install it correctly. You can check the old one with a multi-meter. You will get no reading one way, swithc the multi-meter probes and you'll get a reading. Check out under key word diode, discrete semiconductor for a great selection or Radio Shack carries a few common ones. They generally are identified as a 1N#### (i.e. 1N4001) if you can pull it off the old component.
  • tsh1282tsh1282 Posts: 3
    I had to jump start my truck a few months ago and ever since then the ac will only blow through the defrost. I have called the dealership and they told me that that is a common problem and that something had to be reset. Unfortunatley they could not tell me how to do it myself. When I first start the truck the air will breifly blow through the defrost and then it will blow through the vents for a few second and then it reverts back to the defrost. Can anyone help me please? Oh, it is the dual climate control and it is not the digital contols, it is the manual.
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