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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Climate Control

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Comments

  • As a follow up, I just got back from the dealership. I was 3,000 miles out of warranty and the cost to replace the resistor and wire harness was quoted at $340. When I asked for the number to the customer service rep because fried wiring is not normal wear the service writer had me speak to the service manager who stated that this is such a common problem that they have all the parts on hand to fix it and for "goodwill and to fix a known problem" they would fix it for free. One hour later I was down the road with it fixed.

    Thanks for the inputs.
  • I have a 2003 Gmc Sierra 1500 with dual heat control. The air conditioning works fine but when you slide the controls up to heat the heat only works on the drivers side and the passenger side still blows cold air. This happens whether or not the AC switch is on or off. Thanks in advance.
  • I was jumping another person's car and accidently got the cables on the wrong posts. When I started my p/u it only put out hot air. I talked to the Chevy dealer and he said they would have to re-program the a/c computer. I thought if it was like other computers I would just re-boot it. I unhooked the negative cable from the battery for a few seconds and reconnected. It fixed it.
    Only thing is, my a/c will not put out very cold air. It has a good charge of freon (had it checked) and I suspect the cold/hot air mixing valve.

    How do I check it for sure?
  • my 2006 sierra has a dead blower motor at 50,000 and is out of warranty & the part is not available at the GMC distribution center.

    others have the same problem?
  • I have 03 GMC 2500 HD with the digital climate control. My problem is that i can only get hot air when its set on 90 degrees, anything below 90 is cold air. Any suggetions would be appreciated.
  • I had the same problem; replaced the burnt resistor and wiring harness ($170); called GM Customer Service and was told that I needed an official diagnosis from the dealer in order to have a Dist. Rep. call me to discuss the problem.
    Mine is a 2006 GMC Sierra with 50,000 miles/ no warranty.
    The wires/connectors that come out of the fan/ resistor box by fan look burnt if you look closely.
    My dealer also had the resistor/wiring harness in stock.
    I commend your dealer for the fair "goodwill" N/C repair.
    email your dealer/ service manager contact?
  • I have a 2007 (NBS) Silverado 1500 with digital climate control. I was into the under the hood fuse box searching for a switched circuit and didn't think to disconnect the battery until I had been poking around for awhile. Now, the heater blower works in all settings ( auto, manual, defrost, etc.), but no heat regardless of how high I set the temperature.

    Will appreciate any help, ideas, suggestions...
  • Not sure what the original problem was but if you disconnected the battery you could have flipped the computer, which I had done.

    Turn off you climate control, then try disconnecting the battery again for 5 - 10 minutes. Then put it back on. Just disconnecting doesnt reset the computer it takes a while of no power.

    With a 1500, I imagine you only have 1 battery but if you have 2 make sure to disconnect both.
  • tthoreso

    When I left work at noon yesterday, I discovered that the remote start was also inoperable. I did as you suggested, turned off the HVAC and disconnected the battery for about 15 minutes. That restored the remote start but not the HVAC.

    The original problem was my own stupidity! I removed the under hood fuse box without first disconnecting the battery (I certainly know better). Since resetting the computer by disconnecting the battery didn't fix the problem, I suspect that I have fried something in the HVAC circuitry. Have any suggestions short of taking it to the dealer?

    Thanks for your help
  • dualsduals Posts: 3
    I shorted out my heater control last night. Is there a quick fix or a location of a relay or fuse that I can check.

    Thanks!

    James
  • dualsduals Posts: 3
    It is a 96' model.
  • dualsduals Posts: 3
    Mine does the same thing. Any help?
    Thanks!
  • the weather just turned bad, like 20 below 0 and now the heater motor runs all the time, whether the key is in the ignition or not. Had to pull the fuse for the heater so it won't run my battery down at nite. Any body have an idea what could cause this?
  • although there are many posts similar to my problem i didnt see any that were exactly the same so i figured before i started ripping stuff apart i would see if anyone could help me. Ive got a 2006 GMC 2500HD standard work truck. it has the manual dual climate control and it stopped working the other day. i snow plow so it worked all night but after turning the truck on after gassing up i no longer got any forced air. i need to get this fixed fast because i NEED the defroster. all my fuses checked out fine (2 under the hood and 2 on the left side of the dash) and the lights on the ac and stuff work i just dont get a fan i guess, no matter the setting. ANY help with this would be greatly appreciated!!
  • 2006 gmc sierra 1500 slt climate control fan switch only works up to level 4 thought the problem was blower motor resistor, replaced it and the plug, still doesnt work on level 5, not sure what to do next? any ideas?
  • I shut off the climate control, unhooked the battery and the fan continue to run when I put the fuse back in. Any help?
  • does antone know if you can change the manual heater controls with then electric auto climate control in a 08 1500
  • My Sierra 5.3 defrostor vent seems to be too small to properly heat the entire windshield. The vent seems too small. Has anyone encountered this problem? The older styles have three vents compared to the one vent on the current models.
  • air only comes out of defroster no matter where the knob is, also makes no difference if its on heat or a/c. sounds like the air is coming out of the back of the dash itself. Already tried resetting the computer and changing the fuses. I can not find an air leak in the vent hoses for the vents in the dash. Anyone have any other ideas of what or how to fix this?
  • tcinaztcinaz Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my 04,this was after i had a water pump installed.
    Heres what happens,when you remove the battery cable to service the truck and then reconnect it,the blend doors go to places they have not been in 100 years.If dirt/coke is in the door it sticks in a location.Remove the - battery cable for 5 minutes and then re connect it.This should discharge the caps and move the doors back to where they belong.,,,,,hey it worked for me and the estamate was 700.00 bucs .

    TC :shades:
  • jimm10jimm10 Posts: 6
    Did you ever get this fixed? If so, how? I have the same problem.
    thx
  • jimm10jimm10 Posts: 6
    My 2004 silverado developed the one side hot, other cold syndrome after a battery swap. Eventually, I got the driver's side cold and passenger side lukewarm. I tried the reset method of disconnecting the battery, waiting 10 minutes and letting it reset for a few minutes. Now, it is worse. the driver's side is blazing hot ( was cold ), and passenger side is cold! It changed places. I just had the system evacuated and recharged.
    Anyhow, after I reconnect the battery and turn the key to power it up ( not start engine actually ), the control panel lights up and is " operating" before I can turn it off and let the thing recalibrate itself. I can hear the various doors opening and closing.
    What am I doing wrong ? Please help.
  • ply1977ply1977 Posts: 3
    I have the same problem. When I start my 03 chevy silverado, I hear the vent doors opening and closing about 30 seconds. During that time I have air blowing through the regular vents. After that, the air only blows from the defrost vent. I tried to disconnect my battery cables to see if it would reset. No luck. I don't know what to do. I could take it in, but the cost I imagine would be high.

    Patrick
  • jimm10jimm10 Posts: 6
    New development, I removed the actuator that is right over the transmission hump. I could not find the passenger side actuator and I don't think I can ever reach the driver side one. Anyhow, I opened it's case and did not see any broken or cracked gears, so I reinstalled it. I figured out which way the door " closes ?", and tried to index the actuator by turning the key. It went way too far, I think. It would not even mate with the shaft. So I bumped it a little until it indexed in line and it slipped right in and bolted up. Now, I have very cold air on both sides for a few minutes. Then, it isn't nearly as cold on the passenger side and almost as cold on the drivers side. All the mode functions work as directed at least. Before, it was hotter than blazes on one side and sort of cold on the other.
    Does anyone out there think at least I am on the right track and should replace that actuator? Thanks for any opinions.
  • jimm10jimm10 Posts: 6
    Where exactly is the actuator for the driver's side? On my 2004, I think I saw it way up
    there, slightly to the left of the console. I don't see how I can get my hand up there. I was able to get to the one just right of the centerline of the console and about 2 inches above the transmission hump.
    I am also looking for the passenger side actuator and all I see is some sort of module
    near the blower motor on the case behind the glove box. Obviously, I am confused and need help. I can't find a diagram that helps anywhere. Thanks in advance.
  • seiversseivers Posts: 1
    ">I was having hot air blow from one side and cold from the other. It started after replacing the battery at the end of last summer. I have tried to reset the actuators by unhooking the battery cable (negative side only). Now when I start the truck I get cold air from both sides for about 15 seconds and then they both turn hot. I can turn the truck off and restart and I get the same problem. Does anyone have any suggestions?
  • jimm10jimm10 Posts: 6
    I had several different results from trying the various reprogramming techniques such as disconnecting the battery for several minutes and letting the system recalibrate. What seems to have worked for me, is that I removed the blend door actuator directly over the hump. Not too hard. I manually figured out which way the door needs to go to be closed.I did it by experimenting while the thing was running. Then, I reconnected & disconnected the actuator and fooled with it until the shaft would slide into the actuator socket easily and reinstalled it. It only has two screws and is easy if you have one of those very small flex socket drives. Not sure why, but it has been o.k. since. The dealer wanted $ 97.20 to recalibrate it and I almost bought a new actuator on line for $ 165. I saw a GM Buick TSB that advised recalibration and NOT replacement of the actuator unless it is clicking or if you see a cracked gear when you open it. I have no idea if this " fix" is permanent, but so far so good. I think actually taking it off and resetting where the shaft couples up had a lot to do with it. Hope this helps. Let me know if this works for you.
  • orgrabbitorgrabbit Posts: 1
    1995 GMC 1500 heater airflow direction not working at all it stays in the defrost position. Both lights for air recirculation and AC stopped working the same time I lost direction of airflow. No fuses are blown.All other controls work including fan speed and temperature. Any ideas?
  • My heat & A/C won't blow on High. All other fan speeds work. Seems everyone I've talked to has a different answer: Relay / High/Low blower switch / Speed switch / Etc...HELP !
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