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Older Ford F-Series (20+ years) Questions

noooobienoooobie Posts: 1
edited July 24 in Ford
I Own A 1977 Ford F150.. It Has a new carb. and a new fuel pump but when i start it it will run for a few minates then stalls out like its running out of fuel? i've taken the fuel line off and watched it and it pumps out the fuel.. So any kind of "HELP" will do.
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Comments

  • Anyone know how I can find out the blue book value (the value I could claim for a donation, actually) for this type of vehicle?

    THANKS!
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,899
    I know that the laws have changed regarding donation deductions, but since I am not an expert, I'll point you toward our discussion called Real-World Trade-In Values. Folks over there can give you some ideas.

    kirstie_h
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  • huncherhuncher Posts: 2
    Am having trouble finding an original photo and specs for my 1977 F-250 High boy truck. Am trying to get classic plates and PA DMV is saying that it has a lift kit on it and will not okay the classic plates. I know that it came from the factory like that, but am having trouble documenting it.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    You may want to contact Ford Customer Service on this one. With the VIN, they should be able to produce a production sheet and possibly other info that will authenticate the factory ride height.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • car50ncar50n Posts: 1
    When the Truck is cold. Turn key on fuel pump will run constantly. Truck will not start. After turning it off and on 30 40 times truck will start. It runs Ruff for 5 mins then runs smooth and if you shut it off and turn back on, Fuel pump run for about 3 seconds and shuts off and truck will start. Fuel pressure 55 not running 50 when running holds 50psi in off position.
    Dual Tank system rear Tank pump not working.
  • scubarashscubarash Posts: 4
    i am having a similair problem with my 1990 ford f-150. Do your pumps run and run and run for a long time too, and if so will the truck not start until the pump stops. I have replaced everything from the pumps to the filter to the fuel pump relays to the fuel pressure regulator. I can't seem to fix my problem. :confuse:
  • hektohekto Posts: 2
    You may be interested in classic plates collection - www.ussrlicenseplates.com
  • hektohekto Posts: 2
    You may be interested in classic plates collection - link title
  • kjmac1kjmac1 Posts: 2
    Have an '82 F100 P/U-302W.
    Having a hard time finding out where the neg coil wire terminates.
    Original location seemed to go into the cab of the truck (under dash). No indication where the connection point is. Anyone out there have an idea?
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    Most likely the negative wire would go into the wiring harness into the steering column and thru the ignition switch. to a common ground.
  • I'm wanting to shorten my 1960 F 600 & put a pickup box on the it. The problem is I'm not sure if the cab style for the F 600 was the same as the 100, 200, or 300. I'm contemplating widening a step side or puting a fleet side for a dully - I don't know which would look better. I have a tiny budget but I have time and tools. Any advice would be greatly appreicated.
  • does anyone know if there is any other transfer case that is interchangeable with this truck 7.3 diesel 5spd? I have a borg warner 1356.
  • i have a 1975 f-250 2wd. i am wanting to make it 4wd but dont know what to do, help?
  • I changed the ignition coil, ignition module and still no spark,.
    Fuel pumps are fine, Any ideas? :confuse:
  • Hope somebody can help. Have a 1960 Ford F100 newly rebuilt engine. when we turn the key there is nothing, won't start, no lights, no nothing. Cannot jump it from the battery, but will start if jumped from the starter solenoid. What could be causing this to happen. WE have changed out the starter solenoid, ignition switch, with no luck.
    thanks in advance
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    A ULEV car built today produces 90% less smog forming pollutants running down the highway at 50 mph than your 1960 sitting in the driveway with the engine off...(if there is gas in the tank)

    Mark.
  • I am having problems getting my truck to start i replaced the coil wires, plugs cap and rotor and the points. i am getting fire from the coil to the cap but not to the plugs. what do i do next? i have read the books and did everything i can think of.
  • Need advice: I'm getting ready to doll it up for street/highway driving. Has original 5.0 302 but need to replace original 5 sp elect Auto OD transmission. Do I have option for other tranny , or do I already have the best. Also is good overhaul as good as a after market tranny.

    PAW
  • Q: How many smog-forming pollutants are released during the production of a new ULEV vehicle? How many smog-forming pollutants are released while crushing a 1960 Ford F100?
    A: Lots.

    Q: How smog-forming pollutants are released to produce the 1960 Ford F100?
    A: None.

    It sounds like the 1960 F100 owner is the true environmentalist. Reduce, Reuse, Recycle.
  • My stick shift, 300ci six idles nice, but if I try to accelerate moderately, it flutters and misfires. It does it in any gear. If I floor the accelerator, the flutter and misfiring ceases and it accelerates sharply with no misfiring.
    Have replaced the wires, plugs, Ignition (high voltage) coil, fuel filter, and checked the fuel pressure. Took the ignition module out and it tested fine at the local parts store. The parts store said maybe its the coil inside the distributer. I was told to pull the distributer, remove the gear on the end of the shaft, and disassemble the distributer to install a new one. While I'm not opposed to doing the work, it would be nice to have someone else agree with the parts store that this coil could cause the problem I've described. Any comments will be appreciated~!
  • I have a 74 f-250 xlt 2wd, I am lookig for a repair manual or some exploded views on the power steering box, i have a leak on the input shaft and need to fix it. this vehicle is in pefect working condition and lives in fairview alberta and i use it for my seasonal business, can you help me out here? jim.rosemary@yahoo.com or 780-834-7665

    Jim
    U.S. Army (Ret.)
  • Well didn't it take pollution to make that new vehicle? While that old truck has been going around for twice or more time that the ULEV will ever last. Plus a lot of new car parts are made in countries of lower pollution laws then first world countries.

    Chase
  • Hi Guys/Gals!

    I have a BW 1356 transfer case on my 88 F-250 4x4 and I am planning on rebuilding it myself. There is a site that sells videos on rebuilding transfer cases but I don't know which video to get. There are 3 choices: New Process 203, New Process 205, and a New Process 208. Here is the link to the site. http://www.technicalvideos.com/videos/transfercase.phtml

    I called them on the phone and the woman who answered the phone could not tell me which video to get. She told me to ask transmission shops or part shops....weird.

    Could any of you explain which video I might need or if there is better information available? Thanks in advance.

    Carl

    Ps: the video is under $30 and I thought I could watch it and then decide if I could tackle the job myself.
  • Is $1,400 a good price for a 1965 Ford F100? It is in good condition with a boss 302 motor, but it does need a radiator and new battery? I'm trying to find out how many miles it has on it, but I don't know as of yet. :)
  • I know this is a older post but I just found this site. It sounds to me like you could have a bad acc. pump on the carb. Get a kit and rebuild it, make sure the kit includes the acc. pump and its set right ! It has to be the carb or the dist. Before you tear apart the dist go get a old one from a junk yard and try it....if that sloves the problem then ya know it was the dist ! My bet is the carb !
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,266
    Old trucks are not valued quite like old cars---trucks always have a usefulness that is worth something. Since a battery and radiator only cost maybe $300 and are easy to install, I'd say $1700 is fair enough for the truck, presuming it is not a mangled, rusted, beat up old piece of junk.

    If the engine is overheating and the seller claims its the radiator's fault, you might not want to take his word for it, and check for a bad head gasket also. But if the radiator is just leaking a lot, then that's the problem obviously.

    How are the tires? Truck tires are expensive.

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  • i have a 87/88 f150 it idles fine till i but it in gear when i but it in gear engines dies and ideas would be great thank you
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