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Pontiac Grand Am Maintenance & Repair

1911131415

Comments

  • botdriverbotdriver Posts: 1
    Check the fuel pressure regulator valve on fuel rail 30 min to 1 hour to replace
    $68.00 for new regulator, if not look for fuel leaks on hoses.
  • loveskissloveskiss Posts: 2
    A couple weeks ago my car (which I purchased last month) made a weird noise, almost like a growl when I shut it off. The next time I tried to start it, it wouldn't start, and the "dinger" and the radio just kinda died out. The radio faded like someone just turned it down real slow, and the "dinger" started to flutter. After 2 attempts, it finally started. Then about a week later, I was driving on the highway, and the gauges all went down to 0 like the car was shut off, but then picked right back up. Nothing happened, just the gauges dropping. Now it usually takes two tries before the car will start. I have heard people say to check the volts on the battery, but the battery is new, we replaced it the day after we bought it, because it drained. Two days after we bought the car, it wouldn't start, and we didn't get to drive it for about a week, then someone recommended putting fuel injector cleaner in the gas, and that seemed to work. Now I am having this problem. Someone said that it could be the spark plugs? Any truth to that?? I don't know alot about cars, and neither does my husband. If you can think of anything, please email me at Erica.Gusler@yahoo.com
  • The wire was genius. It worked out great.
    For the next person, when I was installing the back screw, I used needle nose pliers to start the first couple of threads.
  • anitaaanitaa Posts: 6
    i have a 99 grandam and i'm having problem starting it until i wait for the fuel pump to come on and go off
    would it be the fuel filter , fuel pump, it runs good
  • Does this happen only when it's hot? If so, then it sounds like the symptoms I've heard attributed to vapor lock. This is when the gas in the fuel line gets so hot it leaves air pockets that have to be purged before it will start. Unless you can see that a fuel line has been routed incorrectly (too close to something hot), then I don't know how to correct this problem. Please let us know how it turns out.
  • creed76creed76 Posts: 1
    I just recently purchased this car less than a week ago. I filled the gas tank 180 miles ago now the fuel gauge is not reading correctly. One time I look down and it is on 3/4 of a tank and then I look down again and it is on 1/2 and its on full? Any suggestion? PLEASE HELP!
  • I had the EXACT same problem with my car... I don't know what causes it (if you find out please let me know: Erica.Gusler@yahoo.com ) However, when my gas guage should have been on "E" it was reading on full. I kept driving it anyway, knowing it was almost out of gas, and once it got down past "E", the gas light came on and the guage dropped down to where it was supposed to be. I filled it with gas, and I haven't had the same problem since. Hope it doesn't happen again... It sucks when you have that kind of problem!
  • My 2000 Grand Am GT had the same problem. The turn signals would work most of the time then they would not. If you pushed the hazard light switch then the turn signals would work again. I replaced the flasher unit for $25. Easy to fix.
  • I have a bit of a lifter tap when the engine is cold, but haven't found any aftermarket cams / lifters for the 3.1V6. Does anyone out there know if these parts exist?
  • 99 Grand Am SE is putering very loudly especailly while breaking.
  • The 99 thru 04 series employs a worm expanding strut driven by a nylon gear at one end that is powered by a small Fasco electric motor. Most any other manufacturer but Government Motors would make both the strut and motor available as individual service replacement parts. With GM, however, you must pay over $330 for a complete replacement seat frame with motor and strut included. It's outright gouging and it's ridiculous! The nylon gear at the end of the strut either cracks or suffers tooth shearing, whether from age deterioration of the nylon material or overuse/abuse of the power system, much like Ford power windows. Replacing the strut assembly with nylon gear seems the practical solution but GM does not provide that option. It's either live with whatever height the seat is at when the gear cracks or shears, or shell out the $330 plus labor for the sake of a 50-cent piece of nylon attached to a ten dollar worm strut! There are tens of thousands of Grand Ams with broken driver's seats desperately seeking an affordable height adjustment fix. Does anybody know of any aftermarket source for a replacement strut with nylon gear assembly?
  • You bought a car with power seat adjusters, and then have the audacity to complain about a $330 part? These forums are meant for do-it-yourselfers.... people who are frugal enough and innovative enough to MAKE their own parts to save some money.
  • OK, Hotshot. If you "loveyourgrandam" as much as your name boasts, you'll know that the power seat elevator was the only form of vertical height adjustment available and only for the driver's seat -- it's just the way they came; period!
    You'll also know that, with the seat down, a short person cannot easily see over the dash whereas, with the seat up, a tall person must live with their head brushing the inside of the roof. So the seat elevation system, while poorly and weakly designed, becomes more or less a necessity, especially where taller and shorter spouses share the vehicle as in my case.
    You'll also know that the nylon driven gear at the end of the worm strut is molded right onto the end of the strut and cannot be welded as could steel to effect a repair. Moreover, you have absolutely no clue as to the extent of my frugality or willingness and experience in doing most everything myself, due both to financial necessity and the fact that I actually enjoy the challenge of improvisation as far as humanly possible.
    You'll also know that the OEM strut probably cost less than $10 to manufacture in quantity but, if it were available as a service item, might actually retail for as much as $50. A significant amount for a small part but nevertheless a far cry from $330 plus that Government Motors wants.
    So here's my challenge to you, Hotshot:---
    If you think yourself so great that you can fabricate a serviceable and reliable replacement worm strut, using materials of your own choosing, I'll gladly pay you double the $50 for one; that's a $100 offer made publicly in an open forum. Moreover, if your prototype looks good and actually works, I'll pay you $100 each for two more of the same. Heck, given the need and potential demand for these struts, you might even be able to parlay your skills, if they exist, into a profitable sideline business supplying thousands of do-it-youselfers like me who are willing and able to handle the disassembly and reassembly labor.
    So, unless you have some constructive advice as to how someone with a moderate amount of mechanical expertise might go about a practical but functional repair with a reasonable materials outlay and within a reasonable amount of time expended, I respectfully suggest that you either put up of shut up. Puerile and negative attacks such as yours do nothing to enhance the camaraderie that forums such as this attempt to bring to the community of real Grand Am lovers, even though most of us have been screwed by GM in one way or another.
  • anitaaanitaa Posts: 6
    no it does it any time,,,, and now i smell a bad odor and its started smoking and service engine lights came on could it be catalytic converter
  • Since "lovemygrandam" did not accept the challenge to "put up", it looks as if "shut up" proved to be the more gracious option with nothing constructive to say.
  • i am buying this 99 grand am from car lot .. and after few months the low track light came on ..then off track .. i replaced the front breaks few weeks ago .. what is the off track pease help .. :confuse: :confuse:
  • I'm sorry that I was mis-informed about the power seat option. My 2002 Grand Am SE does not have power seats, nor does it have power seat height adjustment. My driver's seat height adjusts with a manual knob on the outside of the seat. I would suggest you take a look at a service manual, and see if you could possibly substitute the manual seat height adjustment mechanism for the one in your car. I was not aware that there were models that did not offer manual seat height adjustment. At any rate, I do apologize for my lack of correct information regarding this problem.
  • bjh1bjh1 Posts: 1
    I am looking for information from anyone who may have experienced clutch problems with their Grand Am. The clutch will sometimes stay to the floor after a few minutes of driving...We have thus far replaced the Master Clutch Cylinder. And the shifing rod...it seems like the clutch can't hold pressure after a few shifts. We have had this into a GM dealership and two other mechanics have looked at it...we are at a loss as to what to fix next...HELP!! :(
  • Now that's a positive thought and very much appreciated.

    For what it's worth, I do not have a shop manual for our 2000 GT even though we paid for one when first purchasing the car nine years ago. From the outset, the dealer delivered a damaged vehicle and subsequently refused to deliver on the manual; also refused to address the leaking intake manifold issue while the car was still under warranty. Appeals to GM went unheeded with responses that all issues were between customer and dealer and that GM fully endorses and supports all dealer decisions. Bottom line: cosmetic delivery damage has never been fixed, the shop manual was never delivered and we paid out of pocket to have the intake manifold issue repaired at a distant dealership. That's how I became "screwedbygm".

    It's very true, however, that what one puts out in life usually comes back with interest, whether good or bad. In this case, the rogue dealership went bankrupt -- and rightly so -- while GM morphed into Government Motors. Sadly, GM's losses have now been placed firmly on the backs of the taxpayers. The saddest part is that the Grand Am was basically a very good car, reasonably reliable and a joy to drive. Nevertheless, I do not see myself ever purchasing from GM again, even if personal economic circumstances should improve, since they have clearly demonstrated (three times over) a total indifference towards purchasers (their customers) and a complete lack of integrity and corporate responsibility. We currently have almost 150,000 miles on our 2000 GT and plan on at least 50,000 more. Virtually all servicing and repairs is conducted by Yours Truly.

    On the driver's seat height issue, as far as I've been able to determine, none of the Grand Am's came with full power seat options for either driver or passenger -- probably just as well. The GT's came with the problem (weak design) power height adjustment on the driver's seat and some, but apparently not all, SE's had a manual height adjustment. I've been touring junk yards looking to see what may be available from that source, thus far without success. On every GT I've found, the power height adjuster was already dead and I've yet to run across an SE with a manual adjuster. If and when I find a junker with a manual height adjuster, I'll take the entire driver's seat underframe with manual adjustment and swap it out for the defective powered underframe that seemingly cannot be economically fixed on the GT. There's no way I'll shell out another $300+ to those Greedy Mother------s (my other synonym for Government Motors) for the sake of a $10 part not made available.
  • Your story of shoddy treatment by your GM dealer seems all too familiar, especially among those of us who post here on Edmunds.com. I guess I should feel very lucky to have purchased my Grand Am from a cooperative dealer. Not only did my dealer work with me on my Passlock Security problem, they also allowed me to look through their service manuals for information I needed to defeat the Daytime Running Lights when I shipped my car to Costa Rica, where Daytime Running Lights are not allowed. The dealer said they could not, by law, do the modification, but they were certainly helpful with information so I could do it myself. I could never get that much cooperation from the dealer who sold me my previous car. (Honda Civic)

    When my Grand Am bites the dust, I'll give you my driver's seat. Deal?
  • That's a possible maybe but, if you're still in Costa Rica, only if you'll play host if we fly down to pick it up? Seriously though, if you're planning to enjoy your Grand Am for as long as we are, I would certainly hope to have come up with something, somewhere, long before then. Meanwhile, with the seat removed, I manually turned the worm to give the lowest setting -- I'm driving comfortably that way. For the little Lady (known as "Shortie" by some of our friends) who is actually the primary driver of this car, we're using a cushion arrangement mush like an infant's booster seat. Improvise, improvise. Thank goodness the back and forth manual slider still works!
  • I have a fuel filter with a threaded end and a quick connect on the other side. Tabs on the quick connect are broken off any ideas on how to release fuel filter.

    Please help!
  • my low coolant light came on thursday night. i added coolant friday morning and now the light has come on again and i see fluid on the ground. it is mainly on the passenger side but the fluid on the ground does go across to the driver side. the fluid is towards the back (behind the engine). does this involve the radiator or something else? (also the w/s has been fogging up recently to where it take about 10 - 15 minutes for the defogger to clear it up)
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    You obviously have a leak in the cooling system, from your description it could be the heater core. You should have it pressure checked to find the source of the leak, an intake manifold gasket could also be the problem, but the windshield fogging up on the inside is kind of pointing to the heater core.
  • I agree with Burdawg here. The windshield fogging up is a classic symptom of a heater core leak.
  • mena2mena2 Posts: 1
    It has appeared twice in the last 2 weeks. The light does not stay on for long though. It goes off right away. Does it have anything to do with the sudden temperature drop? I moved from California to DC a few months ago so my car might not be used to it? I am not sure what to do. I was planning on taking it to the shop but I do not want to get screwed over by anyone. Thanks!
  • Make sure your coolant level is correct. This is a symptom of not having enough coolant in the system, or having air bubbles in the system. Also, make sure your coolant is good for the lower temperature. All this stuff is covered in your owner's manual. A lot of people in california use water for their coolant. If that's what you have, drain it, and fill it with Anti-freeze coolant before the temperature drops below freezing.
  • It sounds like something is ready to just snap when I make turns mostly left turns.. I was told i did not have to get the car lubed like we did on the old car and its real bad on cold days
  • Wow my daughter bought a 2000 Grand AM SE and she asked me to check her transmission and oil levels. Well the oil was no problem but much to my surprise there is no dipstick to check fuild levels in the tranny. I have never owned a Pontiac so I am clueless except to tell her to take it to someone who service and know how to service a Grand AM. If someone could clue me in to what do and where to look so I can service it myself I sure would appreciate it. My daughter is my care giver because of a disability so it is in my best interest to be able to help her keep this car running because she has to drive me to Little Rock AR to the VA.
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    There's been no dipstick on transmissions on many cars for some time now, not just GM products.
    On a GA you need to remove the level plug on the transaxle while it's running and warmed up to see if the level is right. If a little fluid dribbles out then it's right. The plug is on the passengers side, near the front of the transaxle. It helps to take the right front wheel off for access, it needs to be relatively level while checking. Remember that it needs to be running the entire time the plug is out or you'll have a mess.
    Most people find it's easiest to have it checked at a shop where it can be put on a lift.
    The fill plug is on the drivers side, access is from the top of the transaxle. You will probably need to remove some of the intake plumbing (air filter box, etc) but I can't remember specifically what. I have changed the trans fluid myself on my 04, but it's been a while so I'm a little fuzzy on the fine details.
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