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Honda Fit Maintenance



  • have you or your mechanic read your owners manual,you will find out how to re-set your maintenance minder.
  • sirnigelsirnigel Posts: 1
    I changed my two month old Fit's oil today at 7000 miles. It had 5% on the minder. There's no way I'd go to the dealer as that's 50+ miles away. So the local lube changed the oil. Valvoline has been working well in our family cars and from both a mechanic and an "informed" family member I'd heard it's better oil. We'll see.

    The tires were also rotated. The so-so Dunlops are wearing quickly so they got rotated as suggested. I might add that inflating them to at least 40psi helps with handling and improves economy.

    Since the topic's on fluids I'll add my average MPG have been about 33 (range 30 to 36). 80% is 70mph light to mid footed highway driving with the rest on suburb roads. Higher revs seem to decrease highway MPG on the manual tranny as in my case.

    I've also brought that up as I was wondering if the higher revs decrease oil life according to the maintenance minder. Any ideas?
  • kagedudekagedude Posts: 407
    Hi, anyone ever replaced the wiper blade insert on their Honda Fit? I looked at it this morning and I can't figure out how to remove it from the blade enclosure. Thanks.
  • kagedudekagedude Posts: 407
    Found in the owner's manual page 194. It wasn't bad, just slide off the old one, reconnect the metal blades and then slide back in.
  • fitluverfitluver Posts: 198
    Changing your own oil does not void the factory warranty. Be sure to use the specified grade and weight though. The oil filter is in a dream location on this car. It is right up front pointing straight down with nothing in the way to drip oil all over.

    Is the timing belt that easy to change?

    Man, that was always a pain in the butt to put all that money in just because it was located in a tough to get to spot.
  • fitluverfitluver Posts: 198
    Is it me or is the owners manual very vague?

    It is not laid out clearly that you need x y and z at zero thousand miles. Ugh.

    I still have no clue whether I have timing belt or timing chain etc.

    Can I get this info from dealer for free?
  • poachedpoached Posts: 3
    Um... I didn't read the manual for break-in and during the first week because I had to drive people around I went fast. But now I have about 1000 miles on it and I've been trying to go slow (70-75) on the freeway. I'm not sure if I'm already screwed or not with the break in.

    I tried to get an oil change today at 1000 miles and the dealer told me to wait until 15% to do it (it was at 90%). So, good for the dealers. They were being honest.
  • fitman548fitman548 Posts: 172
    re: honest dealers

    my original dealer, I went in for an A1 tune up, and they said the tread wear was even, so I didn't need a rotation. nice!
  • I don't drive very much. My Fit is almost 2 months old and I'm still on the dealer's tank of gas. Obviously, changing oil and other maintenance tasks need to be based more on the calendar than mileage. Anyone know where I can find the recommended maintenance to be performed on a calendar basis?
  • anahita61anahita61 Posts: 110
    Wow, 2 months and still on that first tank? And I thought I didn't drive much. I've had mine since March and I'm barely over 4000 miles - I only drive to work and back home, with a couple trips to the store here and there. Gas is too expensive, even at 36 mpg, to drive more than that.

    There are all sorts of recommended maintenance timelines in your owner's manual. I'm sure you got some booklets when you bought the car. One might be just for maintenance, I can't remember. Also, you should have been set up with Honda Owners Link online - your VIN should be registered there and you can create a login to learn all that stuff.
  • I'll check out Honda Owners Online; that's a good idea. I had skimmed the manual initially when I got it, but I came away from it thinking it was stressing that automatic minder thing that is supposed to come up. But, again, I'll give it another looksee. I've seen a Honda service guy post here and there and thought maybe he'd see my note and give me an easy answer. I'm all for easy!

    But, yes, still on my first tank. I actually work from home so don't need to run around too much. Hence, wanting just a small, simple car that uses regular gas (my previous car used premium). I just hit 140 miles. :)
  • marksanmarksan Posts: 2
    anyone having issues with rattling noise from the front-end? it usually happens while braking and going over a bumpy road at speeds of about 30+mph. sometimes i can even feel the vibration on my brake pedal.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,840
    Braking while going over bumps can engage the ABS. That may be what you are feeling, especially since you feel a vibration in the brake pedal. Is this your first car with ABS?
  • marksanmarksan Posts: 2
    thanks, backy. no. i owned a couple cars (accord, ml320) w/ abs before my fit and never had an issue like this. if it's not too much trouble to explain, why would the abs do this?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,840
    I can only theorize it has something to do with lack of adhesion when going over bumps while braking, which the ABS interprets as slipping, requiring the ABS to engage. I notice this happens once and awhile on my Elantra GT, which like the Fit has a taut suspension. That may be the difference, compared to your previous cars. That, and perhaps the light weight of the Fit which would tend to make it bound over bumps more than a larger car like the Accord and ML320.
  • I was skimming through the owners manual a couple days ago, as I'm nearing my first oil change. I think it says in there that if the maintenance minder hasn't tripped after a year, then you should go ahead and change the oil at that time.

    However, I've also heard that the factory oil has special break-in additives, and Honda really wants that oil in there for at least the first 5000 miles. That would suggest that you should get out and drive a bit more, at least during this first year!
  • n8elqn8elq Posts: 2
    Wonder if anyone else has the same problems I am having noise and handling problem while driving my Fit, with my rear seat windows down. I prefer to not use the AC if I don’t have to and drive with my windows down. But I don’t like the wind blowing in my face so I have always drive with the front seat windows rolled up but the back seat windows rolled down. Of course you will get some wind noise and popping sounds as you drive

    When driving my FIT, when I leave the front seat windows up and roll down the back windows, the cars actually begins to shake and vibrate and a popping noise starts up and becomes so loud at 60 mph that you voice is distorted and your ears start to hurt. Once you start to roll down a front seat window the sound immediately goes away.

    My car was only 3 days old when I was on the expressway and decided to roll down only my backseat windows and as soon as I did the noise began and shaking started, I thought the back end of the car was coming apart. I immediately pulled over and could find nothing wrong. As soon as I got back up to 50 mph the noise and shaking started again.

    A little experimenting determined that it only happened when the front seat windows were rolled up and the rear seat windows were rolled down, I suspect it has something to do with the pressure changed in the car from the wind blowing in the cars back seat passenger windows.

    I asked the dealer about this problem and he said all Honda’s do that and the fix is to roll down a front window just a crack. While that does work, it also creates a whistling sound that drives me nuts when I am driving.

    I am wondering if any other FIT drivers have this problem. My model is a 2007 Fit Sport
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 6,414
    I haven't been in a car in a long time that doesn't reverberate when you roll down just a back window.

    Just the way it is.


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  • bobw3bobw3 Posts: 2,997
    I agree. If I open the rear windows of my FS on the highway the air going in/out makes such a suction my ears pop! I think it has to do with cars with flat sides like SUVs, minivans and the Fit.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 6,414
    I think it has to do with the more aerdynamic shapes of cars these days. I don't recall this being an issue at all with my 1966 Chrysler Newport, nor on any of the cars my family had while I was growing up.
    To be honest, I don't remember it being a problem on my boxy, 1981 Sentra, but I know for sure it was happening by the time we got around to my 1991 Sentra which was a bit sleeker.

    I understand what's happening. It's like blowing across the top of a soda bottle to create a tone. The air passing over the open window is causing the air inside the car to resonate. It may only happen with rear windows because the front windows generally have the side mirrors to break up that airflow right at the front edge of the window opening.


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  • fitman548fitman548 Posts: 172
    Happens in my car. happens in my mom's 2003 prius too. when the pressure on one ear is almost the same as the negative pressure on the other ear, your brain gets uncomfortable.

    It's like turning up your home stereo pretty loud, then switching the + and - terminals on one of the speakers.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 6,414
    It does hurt your ears! My daughter rolled down her window in the back seat the other day and my wife had to cover her ears until we could either get my window open or close the rear one.

    The Interior is a pretty big space. And just like a larger bottle will produce a lower tone, the frequency of the vibration is pretty low. You feel it more than hear it! :surprise:


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  • It's aerodynamics. The moon roof on my 2000 Civic had a little silver wing that would pop up into the airflow when you opened it. The wing prevented a similar experience.

    I'd tell all of you curious ones to try it, but it may blow out your ears or make the windows explode.
  • I bought my Sport MT in March, and have about 4400 miles on it. My work commute is 12 miles each way on the Interstate, where I travel at about 65 to 75 mph. I notice that when I'm in 5th gear the gear shift vibrates when I accelerate. If I take my foot off, it stops, but put my foot back on and it starts - it makes a really annoying buzzing sound that I normally don't notice if I've got music turned on loud enough to mask it. But if I'm driving in relative quiet, there it is, totally annoying. I can see the shift actually move as I take my foot on and off the accelerator.

    Anyone else experience this problem? It seems noticeable only in 5th gear.
  • I've put about 4,500 miles on my Fit so far & the oil life indicator is still at 60% (I do mostly highway driving)--do I really wait until the oil life reads 10-15%? 10,000 miles between oil changes seems like a lot! Don't want to screw up my new car... Thanks!
  • bobw3bobw3 Posts: 2,997
    Yes...wait. My first oil change was at about 9000. I read somewhere that the original oil has some special additives, so you don't want to do an early oil change.
  • vcarrerasvcarreras Posts: 247
    I have 13,800 on my FIT Sport Auto (which I love) and I am already starting to do some of the 15K maintenance. I just replaced the air filter with a K&N, two days now and it runs better. My question is the Cabin Filter. Has anyone changed theirs? If so, how hard is it to change? Is it in the glove compartment area? Are there one or two filters? The maunal doesn't give any instructions about changing or location. Guess they want the dealer to change. Thanks in advance..
  • wuziqwuziq Posts: 1
    Anyone know of a reliable Honda service shop in the San Diego area? I prefer to stick with a dealership. Thanks!
  • kagedudekagedude Posts: 407
    My 2007 Honda Fit Sport 5spd manual already has 48k miles so I decided to go to the dealer today and buy the air filter and cabin filter. I should have bought the parts from an online store to save $20 total as the dealer charged me $26 for the air and $28 for the cabin.

    Anyway, the cabin filter is the easiest thing to do. Think lint filter on a dryer. Just unlatch your glove compartment box and inside you'll see the filter housing right smack in the middle with the 2 latches on the side. Just pull out softly and voila, you see the dirty filter.

    I actually had a harder time replacing the air filter for the first time since I had to massage the accordian thingy out of the air filter cover.

    Tip: Just make sure you replace it back as you see it. Cabin filter "air flow" sign should be facing front.

    The 2 filters just took 5 min to replace. Can you believe the dealer was charging me $89 to replace just the air filter?
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