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Honda Fit Maintenance

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  • anahita61anahita61 Posts: 110
    I bought my Sport MT in March, and have about 4400 miles on it. My work commute is 12 miles each way on the Interstate, where I travel at about 65 to 75 mph. I notice that when I'm in 5th gear the gear shift vibrates when I accelerate. If I take my foot off, it stops, but put my foot back on and it starts - it makes a really annoying buzzing sound that I normally don't notice if I've got music turned on loud enough to mask it. But if I'm driving in relative quiet, there it is, totally annoying. I can see the shift actually move as I take my foot on and off the accelerator.

    Anyone else experience this problem? It seems noticeable only in 5th gear.


    I'm still wondering if anyone with a manual transmission is experience gear shift vibration and rattling in fifth gear at highway speeds. I took my Fit into the dealer yesterday to get it checked out (when I made the appointment the guy seemed to think it might be transmission related), but after waiting for two hours (!) they said the wheels were out of balance, they balanced them and rotated, the Tech drove it and all was fine.

    I got in, only to see he'd only driven .4 miles (some test drive!) and the gear shift still rattles in fifth at highway speeds. How can you get up to 70 mph in .4 miles in a commercial district with a four lane divided road?

    I called the dealer when I got home, told them it's still making the noise, it's not fixed, I knew it wasn't the wheels being out of balance (I would have known if the wheels had been out of balance), I appreciate the free balancing/rotation, but now what do I do? And he says I should go back. Should I bother?

    The noise will only be an issue on a long highway road trip, with no music playing. And then, of course, it will drive me insane. Otherwise, it's not an impediment, nor a hazard. What should I do? Does anyone else have this issue?
  • kagedudekagedude Posts: 407
    I'm still wondering if anyone with a manual transmission is experience gear shift vibration and rattling in fifth gear at highway speeds.

    I drove 260 miles yesterday averaging 70mph in my Sport 5spd manual and I did not experience any vibrating/rattling sound coming from 5th gear.

    Have they checked the actual stick shift to see if a piece is loose? Unscrew the shift ball and remove the plastic piece to see what is causing the vibration/rattle.
  • I just brought my 2008 honda fit to dealership for the same problem/noise. They already knew what exactly was wrong. In fact, i was second customer who had same problem with 2008 fit.

    One of the bracket near firewall is too close to cooling wiring. It tends to make noise at high speed and/or accel. They moved the bracket little bit and no more noise.

    hope this helps...
  • Thanks, kagedude, but it's not the shift itself, it only happens when I press on the accelerator at highway speeds.
  • Hey, thanks, afit2008, this definitely helps! I wonder if I should go back to the same dealership, with this forum post printed out (or just mention it), or try a whole new dealer. I can't believe they sent me away after claiming it was the wheels being out of balance.
  • I belive we all having the same problem, i asked the service deparment about that problem. figured it was becauce we have shape of the car, when u rolled back windown down. the winds blow into ur back trunk and it's becomes like tornado rolls inside from ur back car to the front.
    btw.. I bought a Honda Fit Auto Sport on May 2007, the reason i bought this car is because it said 31/37 mpg on sticker, but it only goes around 20mpg,1/2highway/city. i start calling up the dealer ask them what's wrong. they told it's a brand new car, it need times before it breaks in. they tell me to wait. i waited until 1700 miles, it doesn't seem any better, i finally bought it to honda to check what's wrong. they checked the car they told it has nothing wrong with the car. it just because it's summer, air conditions and stereo can cause it getting less MPG. so i test it with everything off. NO AC, NO TEREO, NO WIPERS, NO LIGHTS, samething. i called the manufactory. they told me i should have wait a little more, they told me after the first oil change it would get better. on 3500miles bought it to oil chance and service. i told the guy that my car getting bad milage. they told me i have to leave for more than a week to check. and they not guaranteed they will find problems. and since they dont think there's a problem, they wont provide the loaner car. i been contacting Honda Dealer, service, even honda main company. they wont see to help anything.. HELP>>>
  • I wanted to thank you on how to change the Cabin filter. Took me less then 5 minutes. The old one was dirty so it needed changing. I now have 15,100 miles on my FIT. I love it more and more each day.. :)
  • It is extremely vague. I called the dealer and they sent me a list of what is needed at the what mileage for free :)
  • I just changed the oil on my wife's fit. Used a full Syn. She noticed that her gas mileage went down significantly. I told her it was a coincidence. I put in low mileage oil. 5w-30. It's a coincidence, right?
  • in reading up a bit, I've found the 30 can lower MPG, but only by 1.5%. additionally the jury seems to be out which viscosity is better for the engine overall.
    Opinions?
  • Just bought a 2008 orange Sport Fit.
    Been reading the manual...Honda seems pretty
    adamant about using their" Honda premium grade 5W20, displaying THe API Certification Seal, (for Gasoline Engines)".
    Is there any equivalent, so I don't have to go the
    dealer every time?
    Thx for any advice...
  • Just bought a 2008 orange Sport Fit.
    Been reading the manual...Honda seems pretty
    adamant using their" premium grade 5W20, displaying
    THe API Certification Seal, (for Gasoline Engines)".
    Is there any equivalent, so I don't have to go the
    dealer every time?
    Thx for any advice...
  • boord1boord1 Posts: 17
    I bought my 2008 Fit Sport yesterday and while driving home from the dealership the "TPMS" warning light came on.

    When I arrived home I checked the tire pressures which were: 42,38,40,46. This was after waiting 1.5 hrs for the dealer to prep the car!

    Anybody know how to reset the warning light so I don't have to drive 130 miles (RT) to the dealer? Thanks in advance!!
  • Okay, a dumb question. How does one remove the glove box?
  • kagedudekagedude Posts: 407
    While the glove box is open and if you look on the sides, you'll notice that the glove box is held in by a spongy block/stopper. I usually just press the sides while pulling gently to let the stopper through. The glove box just unlatches so you can see behind it. It doesn't actually come off.

    Hope that helps.
  • any name brand 5W20 oil (Pennzoil, Castrol, etc)
  • Thanks CageDude. I did notice those spongy stoppers, but I was afraid to break the glove box door. I did it today and it worked like a charm. Thanks!
  • I don't have a fit yet but I think I might be able to give you a good answer to Oil Viscosity.

    ~This is not bearing in mind extreme weather conditions~

    The newer the car (lower mileage) the thinner the oil you want. It has to do with correct oil pressure and protectionswithin the Piston/Cyclinder.

    A newer engine has less room between the piston and cyclinder wall. A thicker oil will not squeeze effectively into the small gap and therefore not protect your components as effectively as a thinner oil.

    As the engine ages normal wear and tear widen the gap between pitson and cyclinder and therefore a thicker oil is necessary to 1.) Properly Protect and 2.) Maintain Proper Oil Pressure.

    So at that point you begin increasing the thickness of the oil, i.e. 5W20, 5W30, 5W40, 10W30, 10W40, 15W40, 20W50, etc.

    Not sure how or why you would be getting better gas mileage with a thicker oil but I believe engine life is more important than gas mileage. If the car is not worned down quickly due to racing, long change intervals, overheating etc. I have always heard around 75K is the time to jump up to the 2nd Tier, accroding to what you beginning Viscosity is. I don't know of any cars starting above 5W20 from go but assume some are out there, mayb trucks/vans, not sure.

    I think there are a lot of myths regarding oil that are out there and it takes quite awhile to understadn it since most of us are not engine builders/lab scientists or engineers working with it.

    Good luck. There is alos much debate between Petrol vs. Synth Oil. My only recommmendation on that is do not follow the Synth oil change interval. I would not exceed you manufacturers recommendation. And if you change your own oil I would get familiar with the timing based on color/smell.

    Anyone feel free to correct me on anything I wrote. I am not an expert.
  • I'm guessing the Fit is an Inline Engine which makes me think it would be a chain and not a belt. Timing Belts a re usually for "Vee" engines, V6, V8, etc.

    I think chains are better. They are easier to replace and replaced less often. Chains take longer to stretch than a rubber belt. The only downside is a chain is more expesive than a rubber belt.
  • I went to the Honda dealership to get my 30,000 mile check-up. They said it would cost $245. I looked in the Owner's Manual to see what the 30,000 mile check-up covered. Not much listed in the manual. Anyway, on my odometer the code said B 1,2.
    So, that means oil change, tires rotated, air filter and cabin filter changed. It costs me about $80 for an oil change and tire rotation....so why are they charging an additional $165?

    I asked the Service Manager how much an air filter costs.....$20, how much to install...no charge. Cabin filter.......$136!!! WHAT? I told him to change the air filter but not the cabin filter.

    I went on-line and found a cabin filter for $20. When I picked up my Fit, I asked the Service Manager how much the cabin filter would cost......$60. I asked him why it was so much more expensive than on-line. He said he didn't know. He said if it was an after market part it wouldn't fit. Which I really question.

    Any thoughts or insights?

    Thanks,
    Suzecruise
  • This is the main page for a website which sells Genuine Honda/Acura parts on-line; http://www.handa-accessories.com/

    Here is a link for the 07 Fit. You will need to scroll down to the maintenance section. The image is not yet available but you will find the cabin filter description. It is listing for $18.09 http://www.handa-accessories.com/fit07.html

    If you are looking for Genuine Honda parts buy it here. They usually provide instructions as well through this site but for some reason they are not listing it with this Cabin Filter. You may need to check your owner manual or a service manual for the instructions. Or look on-line. I am sure instructions are out there for free somewhere.

    Hope this helps.
  • I just went over 30k, and I too had the B12 message. I ordered the air and cabin filters from H and A above, and installed them myself in about 3 minutes. The air filter is really easy...just three or four clips holding the plastic case in place.
  • It seems like most people are ok with trusting the maintnenance minder as to timing of oil changes. However, I am not sure how to handle the "minder" if I change the oil earlier than recommended. If I regularly re-set after an oil change that when I am only at 40% on the minder, is it going to tell me to get a major tuneup at 45,000 miles? The last Honda I owned pre-dated the "minder" so I am not quote sure how to treat it if I choose to change out oil more than every 7-10K miles.
  • Thanks for the helpful information!

    Suzecruise :)
  • I do the majority of my own work. And for what I cannot or will not do I have a personal mechanic who is more trustworthy than a dealer. His business name is Budget Transmission. His name is Mike. Let him know Jesse from Motorcarzdirect referrred you. Her is a block away from the Pyramid in Miramar. Aside from myself, Mike and one other friend I don't trust people with my car. Most people want to have a dealer do all their work while still under warranty, which is understandable, for that I would just go to whichever one is closest. But if you keep the car after warranty I would stop going to the dealer and go to Mike. Good luck on finding a reliable, trustworthy, repair shop.
  • I bought the Element locking gas cap for the 2007 Fit but found that the outside of the cap would turn freely even after I locked the gas cap. Can anybody who has installed the new locking gas cap tell me if this normal and the center part of the locking gas cap is locked tightly in such case ?

    Thanks.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,964
    I don't have a locking gas cap but that sounds like the way one should work. The idea is that when it's locked, nobody but the key holder should be able to get it off, so locking it lets the outside of the cap turn free and not let anyone take the cap off.

    That make sense?

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  • The locking gas caps are made so they rotate freely (when installed) in the counter-clockwise direction unless the key is inserted and turned. In the clock-wise direction, they click when turned beyond that needed to secure the cap. Save some money and buy the Stant locking gas cap #11507 at Advance Auto Parts for about $13. It works great in my 2008 Fit Sport and much less than the Honda version.
  • Thanks a lot for the confirmation. Unfortunately I have already bought the Element gas cap otherwise I would have bought the Stan version. I guess if it is not sealed properly when locked I would have the warning light on the dash.

    Thanks again and Happy New Year to you.
  • I've had my Fit Sport Automatic for less than a week and love it. The only complaint I have is the lack of a locking gas cap. So I went to San Francisco Honda to purchase the Element locking gas cap and was told by the parts mgr that "Honda" doesn't want the existing gas cap removed, it has to be cut off etc. I left without buying one. If the Element cap truly fits the Fit, I guess I'll buy one online.
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