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Toyota Camry Hybrid Owners Problems & Solutions

mikeocmikeoc Posts: 1
Discuss post-ownership questions, not pre-ownership questions.
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  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,860
    We'll turn this into our TCH problems & solutions discussion.

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  • hamm3rhamm3r Posts: 55
    Well, I learned the hard way that there is a typo in the owner's manual about programming the homelink.

    The owner's manual states:

    3. Simultaneously press and hold the handheld garage transmitter button along with the selected HomeLink button. Do not release the buttons until step 4 has been completed.
    4. When the indicator light on the HomeLink changes from a slow to a rapid flash after 20 seconds, you can release both buttons.


    This is not accurate. I would rewrite the manual to say:

    3. Press and hold the selected HomeLink button for approximately 20 seconds. After this time, the HomeLink light will turn from solid to slowly flashing.

    4. After the HomeLink light begins to flash slowly, press and hold the button of the handheld transmitter that you are programming while continuing to depress the selected HomeLink button until the HomeLink light begins to flash rapidly. Once the light is flashing rapidly, you can release both buttons.
  • rscotts54rscotts54 Posts: 47
    hamm3r: Thanks for the correction.

    If that is the worst problem we find with our Hybrid, we'll be doing just fine!!!!
  • bnewinsbnewins Posts: 25
    Thanks!! I was trying to program that last night. I was going to ask the garage door people tomorrow. Now I can try it again. :)
  • jjaxonjjaxon Posts: 27
    im sure it wont be the worst problem...
  • quan1quan1 Posts: 2
    Hey fellow lucky people. How cool is this car. I have 2 concerns though, and I would love to hear from you if you have noticed the same thing.
    1. From a complete stop, push the accelerator and there is a pause, a bump, a jerk, and then it takes off.
    2. As I pull up to a complete stop at a light, the mpg needle moves up to 0 mpg, sits there for a few seconds, I feel a bump, and then it goes down to the bottom ( E ).
    Does this sound familiar to anybody ?
  • bnewinsbnewins Posts: 25
    Normal. It's just the engine starting and stopping. If you move up to a stop light slowly the guage will indicate E as the motor has already stopped.
  • quan1quan1 Posts: 2
    Not so sure, it doesn't happen all the time and it doesn't matter how slowly I approach the stop. I can glide to the stop, mpg needle is on E, stop, and the needle shoots up, stays there, bump, and it goes down. I would love to hear from a bunch of owners, does your car do that ? And the acceleration thing too, really doesn't seem right.
  • lungdoc63lungdoc63 Posts: 55
    Hammr3 - Thanks for the heads up. I got my TCH and tried to follow instructions. Then remmebered haveing seen your post. However, that too didn't work. Went to homelink.com. Got instructions for 2006 Camry and followed it. Worked great the first time. So folks, if the hammr manuver doesn't work, try the web site.
  • orgalorgal Posts: 27
    I went to homelink.com, and saw other car brands listed, but not Toyota, where did ou find the info for the 2006 Camry?
  • gc77584gc77584 Posts: 65
    I went to homelink.com, and saw other car brands listed, but not Toyota, where did ou find the info for the 2006 Camry?

    Click on the Training tab at homelink.com. Under "choose a process" select "program a garage door opener" (assuming that's what you want to do) then click Go. Under "tell us about your vehicle" choose Toyota first, then Camry, then 2006. They don't have 2007 models listed. Click Go. Then choose your garage door opener type and click Go.

    I don't know if the garage door opener has to be "Homelink-ready" or if this will work with any opener. I haven't tried it yet -- that'll be this weekend's project.
  • lungdoc63lungdoc63 Posts: 55
    You saved me a lot of typing. Thanks. Reading the site, I get the impression that most openers will be programable. In fact I was even able to do the gate to the neighborhood, something I couldn't do with the other car. If you have a rolling code, you have to climb a ladder and hit the "train" button on your opener. Orgal - Congrats on your car. I have put 400 miles on this first week - saving $54 in gas versus my Land Cruiser!!!!!!
  • gordo203gordo203 Posts: 1
    I purchased the first hybrid camry in Connecticut and have had it for a few weeks (about 1200 miles on it so far). As I pulled into my driveway today, I noticed a trail of fluid up the driveway sort of centered along the center axis of the car...Does the hybrid system tend to give off a lot of condensation in the warm weather with the a/c going or is this a problem I should be more worried about?

    any input is appreciated!
    thanks
    jason
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    It's probably just condensation from the a/c system. Does it look, feel, and smell like plain old water?
  • spiff72spiff72 Posts: 179
    10 bucks says it is just water from the A/C condenser. Sometimes they can puddle in the undercarriage, and as you turn or slow down, or go up/down a hill, it can create this type of leaky appearance. It is especially bad when it gets really hot (and especially when the humidity is high).
  • pandcpandc Posts: 13
    it is water...mine does the same...don't worry..be happy...you got :) a TCH
  • wvgasguywvgasguy Posts: 1,405
    If it ain't green, brown or won't burn, I wouldn't worry about it.
  • lungdoc63lungdoc63 Posts: 55
    I have had a great time with my TCH last 10 days, putting 550 miles on it. However, as you yesterday, the ICE is behaving completly different. It is no longer turning off with the frequency it used to. I am driving on the same roads. It is no turning off as I coast on long gently sloping downhills, as I coast to a stop light. It won't turn off at a traffic light until I have come to a full stop for 2 to 3 seconds. The battery is always charged up to point of only having one or two of the top 2 bars white.

    What gives? Appreciate any ideas.
  • lvwlvw Posts: 14
    Have you increased the load on the system, such as by having the air conditioning on full, or the headlights on at all times? If not, a discussion with your dealer, in the hope they have someone who can diagnose the TCH behaviour, might be worthwhile.
  • lungdoc63lungdoc63 Posts: 55
    NO increase in load. Same routes and driving pattern. I hope I don't have to take it to the dealer. Its scary, b/c I am not sure they know that much about the car yet.
  • I have a 1991 Olds Calais, 4 door. Awhile back, it quit starting. We eventually replaced the battery, and then it was fine. While it was broken down, you could jump it and it would drive fine, it just wouldn't start without a jump.
    It's been fine for like... a month and a half or so now.. but tonight while driving home, the battery light was flickering on and off. I went to two different stores, and it started up fine when I was ready to go. But when I got home, I turned it off, then tried to turn it back on, and it was dead. No noises, no turn over, nothing. I haven't tried to jump it yet, but hopefully that will work since I have to be to work tomorrow. But what could possibly be causing this? The battery is brand new! When I hit the turn signal, it takes it like 10-15 seconds before it'll click...it just remains green. This is really starting to bug me. I haven't finished paying for this stupid car but it has no warranty, and I can't afford a new one. What can I do?? Please help!
  • wvgasguywvgasguy Posts: 1,405
    Shuddleston, I assume since we drive battery powered cars that you think we are experts on electrical systems????

    Actually someone here may be able to help. Let's see.

    My 70 Chevelle did something similar to this but for the life of me I can't remember what I did to it.
  • cgulcgul Posts: 3
    I would say your alternator is bad and not charging the new battery. You must not drive much and it took that month and a half to drain the new battery. Go to Autozone or another parts place that will check the alternator for you.
  • houtex1houtex1 Posts: 82
    The last two times I have driven my TCH, when I get out of the car and try to lock it with the rubber button on the door handle I hear a few beeps. Looking inside the car, I see a "Key is not detected" message on the dashboard. The key is in my front pocket.The key seems to be detected fine when I unlock the door to get in. I guees it could possibly be a weak battery, but after only two weeks of use???

    Has anybody else experienced this?
  • droid13droid13 Posts: 29
    There was a post on the GreenHybrid forum about someone that sometimes couldn't get the doors to open. Some suggestions were to try on the passenger door, try the 2nd key, try putting the key right up to the door handle. Check to see if you are in an area with possible high radio interference. What you find by checking this stuff will help you determine if it's a low battery, malfunctioning key, or malfunctioning antenna in the door handle.
  • houtex1houtex1 Posts: 82
    I think I solved the mystery. The order in which you do things matters when powering off the car.

    If you shift to Park and then power down, the key is detected fine.

    This morning I powered down while still in Drive. I then shifted to Park. This seems to confuse the key FOB system. When I shifted to Park, beeping started right away. When I tried to lock the door, I got the "Key not detected" message. I had to get back in the car and power on and back off to get things to work normally again.

    I just went to the parking lot and replicated both cases again. So always shift to Park before powering down.
  • wvgasguywvgasguy Posts: 1,405
    I don't know if it really matters but I believe the manual also said to touch the button "as you move away" from the car. It mentioned something about 3 seconds. Maybe that's a subtle way to say when you touch the button you have to step away from the car for it to work right? I don't have my manul here but that's that I thought it said and I've always made o point of trying to follow that procedure.

    I did have to read the manual to see that there are different things happen when you push the start depending on if the brake was depressed or the car was in park.
    That one took me a while to figure out on my own and caused me to read the manual.
  • hamm3rhamm3r Posts: 55
    This is simply a matter of exiting the car (with the key) without first shutting off the engine. As houtex1 discovered on his own, you can not shut off the engine when the car is in drive.

    I think we are prone to trying to do so because the car is so quiet when it is stopped.
  • wvgasguywvgasguy Posts: 1,405
    I meant pushing the black button on the door handle. I thought it said to do this as you move away from the car, left me wondering wht if I push it and stand there for a while, does it mess up the activation of the door locks?
  • houtex1houtex1 Posts: 82
    I don't think there is a problem with standing at the door after you've locked via the black button. The manual says after you lock the door using the black button, you have 3 seconds to test to make sure the doors are really locked. After the 3 seconds if you attempt to open the door, it will unlock as the key will be within range. If you just stand there for however long but do not touch the door handle, the car should remain locked. Atleast that is how I interpret the manual.
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