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Ford Ranger Engine questions

rbarnesrbarnes Posts: 3
I have a '93 ford ranger 3.0 v6.I noticed a black knob about 1" dia that is located on what I think is a sensor on the drivers side of intake manifold.The whole sensor(?) assembly has a black plastic cover over it and the knob is on the left lower side toward the engine.Anyone know what this may be?
Thank you
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Comments

  • chucktkdchucktkd Posts: 4
    I have a 1998 with the four cylinder and multi-port injection and a stick shift. 120k miles.

    It sometimes idles roughly and sometimes perfectly but in either instance when I go to accelerate it tries to choke out and sometimes does. I pushed in the valve with my finger where you apply a pressure gauge to check fuel pressure and fuel came out flying.

    I have recently replaced the air filter and rear O2 sensor. I went to replace the fuel filter but I cannot get it off.

    There are no engine warning lights on.

    I placed my hand over the tail pipe and the temperature is normal.

    Thanks!

    Chuck
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    The throttle position sensor is always worth looking at in situations like this.......
  • chucktkdchucktkd Posts: 4
    J,

    Thanks for the input. I will replace it this evening.
    One question, in my Haynes manual it says to be sure to line up the slot in the TPS with the blade on the throttle shaft. This seems pretty simple but is there a way to screw this up?

    Thanks again!

    Chuck
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    but is there a way to screw this up?

    You'd have work really hard to screw it up........
  • chucktkdchucktkd Posts: 4
    I got it....Thanks!
  • For the past 5 or 10 thousand miles this 3.0 liter has had a clicking sound often, usually when backing off lightly on speed, accompanied sometimes by a puff of white smoke out the tailpipe, when the clicking is often louder. No oil consumption is noticed between oilchanges. Ideas?
  • I use a quart every 1000 miles or so. Leak is from front of tranny. Anything to try rather than a tranny rebuild?
  • rinkyrinky Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 ranger and has a pinging noise.
    Ive cleaned out everything,changed the maf sensor
    changed wires,plugs,etc.
    noise is still there
    how can I get rid of the noise
    4.0 v6
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Tighten the lower intake manifold bolts. Loose bolts is usually the reason 4L's ping. Loose bolts also cause oil usage.

    Clean the MAF sensors with electrical spray cleaner. This might be a part of ping also, but loose intake is usual problem.
  • jimbob510jimbob510 Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 Ranger, 67000 mi on the clock-never hit. Recently developed a water leak (seap) on the drivers side floor area by the kick panel. Pulled the seat & carpet to dry & set up the hose to see where it's coming in. No drips visible under the dash. Anyone else as frustrated as me?
    Jim
  • YES. IT IS CALLED THE EGR VALVE POSITION SENSOR. THEY ARE A COMMON PROBLEM FOR STALLING, ROUGH IDLE, HIGH IDLE, AND WHAT WOULD OTHERWISE BE KNOWN AS A STICKY THROTTLE PEDAL, BUT THE PEDAL DOES NOT STICK. YOU CAN PICK ON UP FROM YOUR LOCAL FORD DEALER FOR LESS THAN $30 DOLLARS. THERE IS ALSO A FLAT BLACK ONE NEXT TO IT ON THE MANIFOLD, AND PRAY THAT IT DOES NOT GO BAD. THAT IS THE DPFE SENSOR, OR Differential Pressure / Feedback Exhaust Sensor. They can be a couple hundred bucks. I have been a service manager and ASE certified tech for several years now. If any other ?'s let me know. :shades:
  • you have the common "head" problem. When the valve jackets crack between the slight clearances of the valves on the intake side, water can seep through and make it's way into the cylinders. The clicking is fuel and water not being ignited properly and the white smoke is what is left of the detonation of the water. Are your spark plugs green tinged at all? Is your coolant level going down or getting bubbles in it? THis condition is a premonition to hydro-lock. In other words, when the jacket cracks completely open from the water jacket to the head(the rest of the way) you will force water into the motor. Water does not compress like fuel, so watch out. You will snap a rod or piston and launch it out of the wakest point close to it at the time (eg. oil pan, block, etc). Make sure that you resolve the problem. It is a slight possibility, but once in a great while, the intake will leak internally and cause the same condition. Good luck my friend. Try not to drive freeway speeds too much if you can help it, until you get it resolved.
  • I have been useing E-85 in my 99 ranger for about 2 months now. And it is running real sluggish. When I accelerate it seems to dog out real bad i have change the fuel filter. When i put it in park it runs fine. Im thinking maybe i got some bad gas i dont know. The check engine light does not come on. I just recently change the battery and the alternator and put fuel injuctor cleaner in it. Anyone have any suggestions what i should do next?
  • I have just replaced a fuel pump in the gas tank on my 88 ranger XLT, replaced the original distributor. The truck starts well them after a short while the engine idles and then slowly dies. Where have I gone wrong
  • THE 1ST PROBLEM, IS THAT YOU NEVER, EVER REPLACE AND IGNITION AND A FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENT IN THE SAME REPAIR, UNLESS YOU ARE A CERTIFIED TECHNICIAN WITH THE PROPER SCOPE AND TESTING SCHEMATICS WITH THE EXPERTISE TO USE THEM FOR THE AFTERMATH AND CONFIRMATION.

    WHAT WAS WRONG WITH THE ORIGNIALS?? INSTALL THE OLD DIST. AGAIN AND SEE IF IT RUNS GOOD. IF NOT, THEN THE PROBLEM IS NOT DUE TO THE NEW DIST AND EITHER IS RELATED TO THE FUEL PUMP OR A SEPARATE, NEW PROBLEM. IF IT DOES RUN GOOD, YOU KNOW THAT THE PROBLEM IS IN THE NEW ONE. DID YOU GET A NEW CAP AND ROTOR?? CHECK THOSE FOR ARCING AS WELL. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GOOD BRAND LIKE FOMOCO OR MOTORCRAFT OR BORG-WARNER.

    IF THE PROBLEM DOES NOT CHANGE, INSTALL THE OLD FUEL PUMP AND THE OLD DIST, WHICH IS BEFORE THIS PROBLEM STARTED, IF I UNDERSTAND CORRECTLY. SAME PROCESS HERE AS WELL.

    IF NEITHER OF THOSE MAKE A DIFFERENCE, THEN YOU KNOW YOU HAVE A NEW PROBLEM WHICH IS WHY IT IS HARD TO REPLACE MULTIPLE SYSTEM COMPONENTS AT ONE TIME. IF THIS IS THE CASE, REINSTALL YOUR NEW COMPONENTS AND CHECK THE IGNITION MODULE,COIL, WIRES AND ECM. SOMETHING IS GETTING HOT AND ARCING OUT OR GROUNDING FROM EXCESSIVE HEAT THROUGH THE CIRCUIT SOMEHOW. THE IGN MODULE IS EITHER ON THE BOTTOM OF THE DIST, INSIDE OF THE HOUSING ON THE BASEPLATE, OR ON THE D/S BACK FIREWALL. SHOULD BE GREY OR BLACK, DEPENDING ON MODEL. MOST PARTS STORES CAN TEST THEM ON A STAND-ALONE BASIS WITH THEM OUT OF THE VEHICLE. IF THAT IS NOT IT, CHECK THE COIL FOR RESISTANCE ON THE PRIMARY AND SECONDARY SIDE. THIS IS ALSO A COMMON PROBLEM.

    GET A MANUAL AND GO THROUGH THE FLOW CHART DIAGNOISTICS. WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND ALLDATA.COM AND PAY THE FEE FOR THE LIFETIME USE OF THAT VEHICLE'S DATA. I THINK IT'S $44 OR CLOSE TO IT. WELL WORTH THE MONEY, AND YOU CAN TEACH YOURSELF AN AWFUL LOT THROUGH THEIR DIAGNOSTIC CHARTS. IF NONE OF THIS HELPS, REPOST AND I WILL GET BACK TO YOU. GOTTA RUN SINCE I HAVE A MONSTER TRUCK SHOW TO ANNOUNCE IN OHIO. IT MAY TAKE ME A COUPLE DAYS TO GET BACK TO YOU. THANKS. KEVIN. :shades: :)
  • YOUR WELCOME. LET ME KNOW WHAT COMES OF YOUR DIAGNOSIS GOOD OR BAD. THANKS.
  • thanks kevin.
    The distributor is the original and was rusted and worn out. I changed the rotor and the cap. The idling revs went from 3/400 to 8/900. The pump was worn out and I did change them one at a time. There was aproblem awhile ago when mu niece owned it that the engine heat sensor said after a moment or too the engine was overheated and it stopped. Why then does this monster start then stall after a very little while and then refuse to start for 5 minutes and then the cycle can be repeated
    Mike
  • That sounds an awful lot like a coil or ignition module. they are infamous for that very thing. What happens is the module, has a heat transfer plate built onto the back of it and if it is shorted, it will actually try to send power out of the already grounded plate once it gets hot, then the circuits touch from expansion, and you have to let it die, then sit for however long until it is cooled down enough to allow it to perform it;s normal duty. I would make sure the others are ok for sure before I replace it, but it sounds like you may need a new one anyway. I am very surprised that they did not try and sell you that at the parts store when you bought your distributor. A good ASE certified parts pro should have suggested that to you over and above the cap and rotor. Let me know man, won't be back on the email until tomorrow or late tonight. I'm an on EST time right now.
  • From my understanding if you vehicle was not equipt to run on E85 the most ethanol you can run is 15%. So unless there was a mod done to your engine that could be the whole problem.
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    I totally agree with minoshiya..get that E-85 out of there before you do more damage to the vehicle. Check this link for more information....
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E85#Use_in_standard_engines
  • I want to test the knock sensor on my 98 Ranger 3.0. Its not in the Chilton or Haynes manuals. Anyone know where it is?
  • Big question is why???????????
    Call ford and make sure you even have one to look for. You most likely do, but some variations of the 3.0l did not. So, with that in mind............
    It is either on the bottom of the driver's side block, inside of the timing cover setup, or if you're really lucky, it may actually be buried underneath the lower intake manifold! Remember, it has to be in a location where it will not be interfered with by ambient noises or vibration, so it's location is not usually easy to get at on a Ford. These are the most common locations. I don't remember exactly where yours is, but why are you needing to test the knock sensor??? What makes you suspect it as a problem?? Just curious to find out, since most manuals and other people like to point to them as a problem when timing is retarded, etc, when in fact, 99% of the time, it hears or feels something that you cannot and makes an adjustment so that you do not prematurely blow your motor up. 99% of the time, they work fine. Have you gone to alldata.com and gone through the diagnosis flow charts yet?? might be well worth your time to look into. Make sure you have one and do a flowchart rundown to make sure you are on the right track. There are 3-6 things that you test for the same symptoms first, before the knock sensor is allowed as a candidate for the cause of failure. Cya.
  • Thanks, Sounds like a bear to get at.

    Couple reasons. First, I’ve checked just about everything else and the truck runs great but pings like crazy under load on everything but Premium Gas. In my area Regular Gas is $216(pre-election price) and Premium is $255. It also bugs me because from what I’ve read no OBDII vehicle rated for regular gas should ping. The ECM should adjust timing if it gets feedback from the knock sensor.

    To eliminate other possibilities, I used Autotap and found all sensors are reading normal. The front O2’s are fluctuating nicely and the back O2 reads clean. Short term fuel trim fluctuates between +.6 and -.8. I tested the EGR and its working OK. Vacuum is good. Engine temp is normal.

    I know that something solid-state like a piezzo element in the knock sensor shouldn’t fail, but I’m running out of options. I also know this is a common problem with the 3.0, and I’d love to get my hands on at least one of the TSB’s Ford put out about it (Bulletin Numbers: (6321, 12782,14076, 13528, 14366, etc) but can’t find full write-ups, only references. I did however find something similar happening with Toyotas and someone traced it to a bad ground on the sensor’s shielded cable, i.e, the signal getting back to the ECM was too weak to register. So, I’d figured I’d give it a shot. I was hoping they’d be easier to get at.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    You said ' I also know this is a common problem with the 3.0,'.

    Yes, very, very common problem with 3L Ranger motors, for years and years and years.

    You have the problem. The only thing I've heard Ford doing about it, and I think it was for older Rangers tham yours, was replace the coil packs with ones that supposedly was 'hotter'. Or some such thing.

    Can't you buy a subscription to 'Alldata' for one year for something like $20, and this gets you all the TSB's (except Honda doesn't give out theirs at all, and possibly some other manufactors. I think Alldata will have Ford's.)

    There is also another thing that can be done. And I never remember the correct name for it. There is a SPUG or SPUNG or some such named 'connector' that can be 'pulled'. But what this does is retard the timing, which should reduce ping. Of course, retarding the timing also reduces power.....
  • Well, I certainly would not start unplugging SPNG plugs as bolivar suggests. What you do not want to do is mask the problem or create a temporary solution for a premanent problem. Sounds like you have done your homework, and I think you have, but I'll ask anyway. Did you spray the intake and check for small or large vacuum leaks at all? That will cause the same result, moreso with Reg gas than with Super. You might also try running injector cleaner through it and then change to a stage hotter plug. You have to wait until after, because it will kind of ruin a brand new plug. Check off those 2 things and you may have a knock sensor failure. They are quite sensitive. Have a good one. BTW, I know that Mitchell ON Demand has ford tsb's and alldata does as well.
  • he changed the fuel pump and crank shaft sensor and hit the relay switch but there is no spark to start the truck. what can be the problem. :sick:
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