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Ford Ranger Engine questions

rbarnesrbarnes Posts: 3
I have a '93 ford ranger 3.0 v6.I noticed a black knob about 1" dia that is located on what I think is a sensor on the drivers side of intake manifold.The whole sensor(?) assembly has a black plastic cover over it and the knob is on the left lower side toward the engine.Anyone know what this may be?
Thank you
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Comments

  • chucktkdchucktkd Posts: 4
    I have a 1998 with the four cylinder and multi-port injection and a stick shift. 120k miles.

    It sometimes idles roughly and sometimes perfectly but in either instance when I go to accelerate it tries to choke out and sometimes does. I pushed in the valve with my finger where you apply a pressure gauge to check fuel pressure and fuel came out flying.

    I have recently replaced the air filter and rear O2 sensor. I went to replace the fuel filter but I cannot get it off.

    There are no engine warning lights on.

    I placed my hand over the tail pipe and the temperature is normal.

    Thanks!

    Chuck
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    The throttle position sensor is always worth looking at in situations like this.......
  • chucktkdchucktkd Posts: 4
    J,

    Thanks for the input. I will replace it this evening.
    One question, in my Haynes manual it says to be sure to line up the slot in the TPS with the blade on the throttle shaft. This seems pretty simple but is there a way to screw this up?

    Thanks again!

    Chuck
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    but is there a way to screw this up?

    You'd have work really hard to screw it up........
  • chucktkdchucktkd Posts: 4
    I got it....Thanks!
  • For the past 5 or 10 thousand miles this 3.0 liter has had a clicking sound often, usually when backing off lightly on speed, accompanied sometimes by a puff of white smoke out the tailpipe, when the clicking is often louder. No oil consumption is noticed between oilchanges. Ideas?
  • I use a quart every 1000 miles or so. Leak is from front of tranny. Anything to try rather than a tranny rebuild?
  • rinkyrinky Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 ranger and has a pinging noise.
    Ive cleaned out everything,changed the maf sensor
    changed wires,plugs,etc.
    noise is still there
    how can I get rid of the noise
    4.0 v6
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Tighten the lower intake manifold bolts. Loose bolts is usually the reason 4L's ping. Loose bolts also cause oil usage.

    Clean the MAF sensors with electrical spray cleaner. This might be a part of ping also, but loose intake is usual problem.
  • jimbob510jimbob510 Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 Ranger, 67000 mi on the clock-never hit. Recently developed a water leak (seap) on the drivers side floor area by the kick panel. Pulled the seat & carpet to dry & set up the hose to see where it's coming in. No drips visible under the dash. Anyone else as frustrated as me?
    Jim
  • YES. IT IS CALLED THE EGR VALVE POSITION SENSOR. THEY ARE A COMMON PROBLEM FOR STALLING, ROUGH IDLE, HIGH IDLE, AND WHAT WOULD OTHERWISE BE KNOWN AS A STICKY THROTTLE PEDAL, BUT THE PEDAL DOES NOT STICK. YOU CAN PICK ON UP FROM YOUR LOCAL FORD DEALER FOR LESS THAN $30 DOLLARS. THERE IS ALSO A FLAT BLACK ONE NEXT TO IT ON THE MANIFOLD, AND PRAY THAT IT DOES NOT GO BAD. THAT IS THE DPFE SENSOR, OR Differential Pressure / Feedback Exhaust Sensor. They can be a couple hundred bucks. I have been a service manager and ASE certified tech for several years now. If any other ?'s let me know. :shades:
  • you have the common "head" problem. When the valve jackets crack between the slight clearances of the valves on the intake side, water can seep through and make it's way into the cylinders. The clicking is fuel and water not being ignited properly and the white smoke is what is left of the detonation of the water. Are your spark plugs green tinged at all? Is your coolant level going down or getting bubbles in it? THis condition is a premonition to hydro-lock. In other words, when the jacket cracks completely open from the water jacket to the head(the rest of the way) you will force water into the motor. Water does not compress like fuel, so watch out. You will snap a rod or piston and launch it out of the wakest point close to it at the time (eg. oil pan, block, etc). Make sure that you resolve the problem. It is a slight possibility, but once in a great while, the intake will leak internally and cause the same condition. Good luck my friend. Try not to drive freeway speeds too much if you can help it, until you get it resolved.
  • I have been useing E-85 in my 99 ranger for about 2 months now. And it is running real sluggish. When I accelerate it seems to dog out real bad i have change the fuel filter. When i put it in park it runs fine. Im thinking maybe i got some bad gas i dont know. The check engine light does not come on. I just recently change the battery and the alternator and put fuel injuctor cleaner in it. Anyone have any suggestions what i should do next?
  • I have just replaced a fuel pump in the gas tank on my 88 ranger XLT, replaced the original distributor. The truck starts well them after a short while the engine idles and then slowly dies. Where have I gone wrong
  • THE 1ST PROBLEM, IS THAT YOU NEVER, EVER REPLACE AND IGNITION AND A FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENT IN THE SAME REPAIR, UNLESS YOU ARE A CERTIFIED TECHNICIAN WITH THE PROPER SCOPE AND TESTING SCHEMATICS WITH THE EXPERTISE TO USE THEM FOR THE AFTERMATH AND CONFIRMATION.

    WHAT WAS WRONG WITH THE ORIGNIALS?? INSTALL THE OLD DIST. AGAIN AND SEE IF IT RUNS GOOD. IF NOT, THEN THE PROBLEM IS NOT DUE TO THE NEW DIST AND EITHER IS RELATED TO THE FUEL PUMP OR A SEPARATE, NEW PROBLEM. IF IT DOES RUN GOOD, YOU KNOW THAT THE PROBLEM IS IN THE NEW ONE. DID YOU GET A NEW CAP AND ROTOR?? CHECK THOSE FOR ARCING AS WELL. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GOOD BRAND LIKE FOMOCO OR MOTORCRAFT OR BORG-WARNER.

    IF THE PROBLEM DOES NOT CHANGE, INSTALL THE OLD FUEL PUMP AND THE OLD DIST, WHICH IS BEFORE THIS PROBLEM STARTED, IF I UNDERSTAND CORRECTLY. SAME PROCESS HERE AS WELL.

    IF NEITHER OF THOSE MAKE A DIFFERENCE, THEN YOU KNOW YOU HAVE A NEW PROBLEM WHICH IS WHY IT IS HARD TO REPLACE MULTIPLE SYSTEM COMPONENTS AT ONE TIME. IF THIS IS THE CASE, REINSTALL YOUR NEW COMPONENTS AND CHECK THE IGNITION MODULE,COIL, WIRES AND ECM. SOMETHING IS GETTING HOT AND ARCING OUT OR GROUNDING FROM EXCESSIVE HEAT THROUGH THE CIRCUIT SOMEHOW. THE IGN MODULE IS EITHER ON THE BOTTOM OF THE DIST, INSIDE OF THE HOUSING ON THE BASEPLATE, OR ON THE D/S BACK FIREWALL. SHOULD BE GREY OR BLACK, DEPENDING ON MODEL. MOST PARTS STORES CAN TEST THEM ON A STAND-ALONE BASIS WITH THEM OUT OF THE VEHICLE. IF THAT IS NOT IT, CHECK THE COIL FOR RESISTANCE ON THE PRIMARY AND SECONDARY SIDE. THIS IS ALSO A COMMON PROBLEM.

    GET A MANUAL AND GO THROUGH THE FLOW CHART DIAGNOISTICS. WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND ALLDATA.COM AND PAY THE FEE FOR THE LIFETIME USE OF THAT VEHICLE'S DATA. I THINK IT'S $44 OR CLOSE TO IT. WELL WORTH THE MONEY, AND YOU CAN TEACH YOURSELF AN AWFUL LOT THROUGH THEIR DIAGNOSTIC CHARTS. IF NONE OF THIS HELPS, REPOST AND I WILL GET BACK TO YOU. GOTTA RUN SINCE I HAVE A MONSTER TRUCK SHOW TO ANNOUNCE IN OHIO. IT MAY TAKE ME A COUPLE DAYS TO GET BACK TO YOU. THANKS. KEVIN. :shades: :)
  • YOUR WELCOME. LET ME KNOW WHAT COMES OF YOUR DIAGNOSIS GOOD OR BAD. THANKS.
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