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Ford Ranger Engine questions

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  • Hey bolivar,

    Just bit the bullet and went for your plug…. Bought an Alldat.com subscription.

    At first Nothing….None of the tsb's (as listed) by the site below are shown at Alldata

    http://www.ford-trucks.com/tsb/tsb.php/m-FORD/y-1998/d-RANGER
    for ping problems e.g.,
    http://www.ford-trucks.com/tsb/tsb.php/m-FORD/d-RANGER/y-1998/t-13528
    Or
    http://www.ford-trucks.com/tsb/tsb.php/m-FORD/d-RANGER/y-1998/t-12782
    The list goes on- Bulletin Number’s: 15095, 6321, 14076, 14366, 0073, 00248

    But then I found a real TSB Number 00-7-3. And it stated just what you said:

    Replace Coil, if between a set of code numbers… and then it also said replace the PCM

    Ackkkk. That says to me a faulty PCM. … i.e maybe it doesn’t HEAR the knock sensor.

    Anyway, after weighing my options, (i.e., how long of paying for Premium gas would it take to pay back for a new PCM, coil and time spent fixing something on an 8 year old vehicle.) I’ll just go for the gas. I repeat Ackkkkk…. :mad:

    All in all, Thanks for your help. I got the right answers…
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, I didn't 'recommend' pulling the SPNG (or whatever it is) connector. Maybe it could be read as I did 'suggest' it. But I really don't suggest it. Especially since a 3L needs all the power it can generate, and retarding the spark will reduce power.

    But, I've read that this is exactly what some Ford service people have done when people complain of the 3L pinging - pulling the connector.

    The motor has a design problem, has had it for years and years, and Ford does nothing about it. I've not heard of anyone actually having any damage from the pinging.
  • Thanks modanncnr,
    Yes I did check vacuum leaks, even cleaned the MAF filament as suggested at TheRangerStation.com. Very frustrating. I think this engine should be rated for a higher-octane fuel. I’m still going to try the timing light/ whack the engine with a wrench test- to see if the timing retards. From what I’ve read, the resonant frequency of the Piezzo element is about 15 KHz, about the same as hitting an engine with a wrench… Besides at this point, it might be fun. :D

    Thanks for your help. As I said above.. I got the right answers.
  • Well that didn’t work. (Wrapping the wrench on the block)
    Saw it at
    http://www.vehicletest.state.ma.us/newsletters/01MAY.pdf
    I tried it on the 3.0L Ranger, and I could’ see any perceptible change. I didn’t know if the sensor was bad or if the test was bogus, so then I tried it on my 4.2L F150. Same thing. There may have been a small change but it was too small to be conclusive.

    To make matter worse my wife came out and asked what I was doing. I told her and then showed her the posts I put here. The only thing she picked up on was a major Blooper in one of my posts. She’s still laughing.
  • My truck ahs 120,000 miles I bought it from a private owner. It ran good for about a month I gave it a tune up replace the cap and rotor. and after it runs awhile it starts missing and then stops. It seems it's not getting any air I really don't know. But when it cools down it will run again for awhile. The truck does not over heat and all the readings are normal what can this problem be.

    Thank You
    Vince
  • i am probably just going to get rid of my 85 ranger stick 4x4 4cyl. I bought the truck for a case of beer and ten bucks. the guy who had it before him raged on it real bad. now the timing sprockets only turn when i mess with the bottom sprocket and then turn the second one. the top sprocket dosent move. and the belt just sits there. i think i should just get a new engine. but i just wanted to see if there was anything i could do to fix it. i dont have the money for new so i want to fix . please help me out.

    thanks

    shayne
  • 2002 ford ranger no check engine light but no power. will not pass 3000 rpm. Hits about 3200 rpm and starts to miss fire and bog down wont pass that point. Dont matter if in drive or neutral still does it any one have any ideas. :sick: No trouble lights have come on.
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    Bad cat converter or other exhaust restriction.....?
  • My truck will not run when it gets hot. The water temp is fine but when I first start it up it runs but after about ten minutes it sounds like it's casping for air and woun't go over 5 miles and then bobs out. Please help me. I've tune it up change gas filteres.
  • dude, you need a cat converter, or a MAF meter. Both of those will cause the exact result you are seeing. Take a thermometer(non-contact) and check before and after the cat temps while the truck is running and warmed up. THere should be no more than a 50 degree difference from the inlet pipe to the outlet pipe. If there is, then the cat is done. If they are fine, then the truck is limiting itself electronically somehow. THis would send me the direction of the Mass Air Flow meter (MAF) and in a hurry. If neither of those 2 make a difference, save yourself some money and time and take it to a dealer. They can find it quickly if those don't work. Good Luck.
  • Ignition module been changed?????
  • No not yet I replace the coil but still does the same thing
  • will this correct the problem, and where would it be located.

    Thanks
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    Also possibly a bad cat or fuel pump. Check your fuel pressure after it starts "casping for air"
    As previous poster suggested, check the cat temps with a good non-contact thermometer.
  • the pump is in the tank, or yours is early enough that it may have a lift or electric booster pump in the frame rail, driver's side. I highly doubt it is fuel pressure, becuase once the pump goes bad, rarely does it just fire back up consistently. Usually it is good or bad, not half way in between. The Cat is located at the base of the header pipe on your truck. It may even be part of the header or collector assembly. You will need to get a good therm., one that you point a laser beam and it tells you the temp. THat is called a non-contact thermometer. Also be sure to check the ignition module, MAF or MAP and do yourself a favor, go to alldata.com and get some flow chart testing procedures for a warm, dying problem, followed by a crank, no-start until cool. You should get some help there.
  • My '98 ranger,105K, has no power to go up hills even unloaded. I end up in third gear doing about 55 if I run at 4000rpm otherwise it's even worse, any ideas what could be wrong?

    Thanks
  • I have an 86 4x4 that my wife picked up for a couple of hundred dollars. I am amazed at the quality of this truck....far better than my S-10s. Anyway, it has a 2.9L engine that idles and runs fine around the farm, but on the hiway it starts out great, then will stutter and lose power, then recover just as fast. When I feel the power drop, a push on the accelerator will snap it back to life. This is annoying as I can't maintain a constant speed. I am either losing power or recovering. It seems to do this mostly around mid throttle, but wide open doesn't seem as peppy as I think it should. Sometimes during acceleration, it will lose some power, and the exhaust tone will change. There is no engine light, so every time it acts up, I grab my code reader and check it. No faults are found. I did replace the computer because it showed a constant A/C fault and I don't have A/C. I read earlier that I should check the Cat and MAF sensor, are there any other checks I can do?
  • You could try replacing the front seal on the transmission.
  • Yeah she needs a tuneup.. Change your plugs, wires, and fuel filter, and make sure you put platinum plugs back in, you dont have get the ones that are 3-4 dollars each just get the autolite platinum with the single ground. Then I would run a couple cans of Chevron fuel system cleaner through it with a couple tanks of gas. Wal-Mart has it for about $6/bottle. Its a black bottle and has the word TECHRON on it in white letters. Its the best you can buy over the counter (so says an independent company). Then after you do this initially, I would run one bottle every 2-3 tanks. I have 111,000 on my 3.0L and it still runs strong and I do what I just recommended to you. You might also try and find a spray can of FUEL INJECTOR cleaner. And spray it down your intake to clean the deposits out of there as well. I spray it right on the butterfly so that some will go through the idle air control valve, but it will start to die, so then ya have hit the throttle, and it will suck the rest through the butterfly and into the intake. Dont spray more than 30sec at a time. It can overheat your catlytic converter. Hope this helps. You are probably lookin at about $80 for just parts on the tune up.
  • Just a follow up note. My truck has a MAP instead of a MAF. The wires, distributer and roter are new, I did however replace the plugs. Here is a big "what if"....I replaced the plugs with the ones recommended by Haynes...they are not platinum....could that be a problem?

    Any info would help.....Thanks
  • I'm looking at getting a new 06 Ranger XL (automatic, regular cab), but have concerns on the 2 different engines offered. Between the 2.3L 4 cyl and the 3.0L 6 - how would you compare performace and milage? I would love to hear from current Ranger owners for real-world feedback. Thanks! :)
  • I have a '99 Ranger with the 3.0L about to turn 100k. I bought Iridium plugs but before I went to install them, I noticed that while the driver's dise has easy access, the passenger side plugs look difficult to reach. Can they be done with a normal set of sockets - or does it require disassembling some of the junk in the way - or does it require special tools. Or did Ford really design it this way so they could charge $168. for new plugs ?
  • You can get to the plugs with just a regular set of tools. That back plug is kind of a pain, but with just a ratchet and spark plug socket you should be able to get to it, and then unscrew it by hand. The front ones should be really easy to get too. I have a 2000 3.0L and I can change mine in about 30min. Thats doing them one at a time, pull one, gap new one, put it in and move on to the next one.

    Install is just reverse order.

    What are Iridium plugs? You just need to buy platinum plugs, and the autolite brand with a single ground strap is all you need. They are like $2-$4/ea.
  • I recently rebuilt the motor, replaced injectors, distributer, fuel filter, fuel pump, you name it. The engine runs like crap and the tachometer goes to 0 and jumps around. Only when its damp out and not when it's dry. Please someone help me this is killing my brain.... You can also email me at brogers@hendrickson-intl.com. My email here is checked late at night. Any help will be appreciated.
  • I have a 98 ranger, 2.5 engine, 5 speed. For the past year I have been fighting a problem with my idle. When outside temperature rises above 50 degrees my idle jumps way up when I come to a stop. Sometimes, when I'm driving through a parking lot I can travel 35mph without touching the accelerator. I have changed my IAC valve twice and cleaned my throttle body and intake.
    Any suggestions?
    Sammy
  • i have a 99 ranger with a 2.5L. can anyone tell me where the oil sending unit is for the oil pressure gauge?
  • If it's like my 2000 it's on the head, driver side, very back. You almost need to feel for it. Feel for the wire and follow it to the sender. It's almost underneath the intake manifold. PIA location. Mine is going into the shop for no oil pressure when cold. It's too cold outside and too hard to get to for me. Hopefully it's the sender but I'm having my doubts.
  • Just purchased a '01 Ranger and I need some advice on which oil / filter to use. The truck has 77K miles, and I will probably drive the truck only 5-7,000 miles a year. I've heard good things about Valvoline Max Life. However, they don't make a 5W-20 grade (or at least I can't find any).

    Max Life comes in 5W-30, but I am hesitant to go with a different grade oil. Also, I was considering adding 1 quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer every oil change.

    1) Any recommendations on oil? Is it ok to use 5W-30? Is there another high-mileage oil that comes in 5W-20?
    2) Pros and cons of Lucas Oil Stabilizer?
    3) How about an oil filter recommendation?

    Thanks in advance

    :confuse: CW
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    If the manual says 5W-20, I would use 5W-20.

    (Although the recommendation of 'lighter' oil, in many cases, is only to get better gas milage, in my opinion. 5W-30 or 10W-30 would probably be fine, especially since in earlier years of this motor, this is what Ford probably recommended.)

    In my opinion, any major oil name will do fine. "High-milage", "RV", etc etc 'specialized' oil - what a load of crap. Royal Purple - Ha. Do these 'specialize' oil companys have an oil refinery? No. They buy truckloads of base stock from the big boys refinery, package it, add the 'usual' additives, then spend lots of money of advertizing about how 'special' their oil is. And millions of cars run every day for millions of miles on good old Mobil, Texaco, etc etc oil.

    You've got a Ranger with 77,000 miles, which is not a not of miles. Change the oil and filter every 4,000 miles or so, use any 'name' brand oil, use Motorcraft filter - you aren't going to have a maintance problem tied to oil lubrication.
    Filters - I don't like Fram. Read too much about how 'cheep' they look inside when cut apart. I could usually find Motorcraft (Ford) filter at auto parts house for $3. If Ford puts their name on it, it should be fine for the vehicle.
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