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Ford Ranger Engine questions



  • I just replaced the head gaskets on my 2.9 because I pulled and checked the lifters. The entire gasket set and new bolts cost around 150 Canadian. They can be changed in a morning.
  • doug40doug40 Posts: 1
    need to replace it
    I have gotten so many replies for used engines
    the problem is getting the right engine
    it says cal emissions w/o EGR
    is this the same as low emissons w/o EGR?
    thank you
  • I have been driving my daughters Ranger. I put in 10 gallons of gas and have driven 70 miles for a total of 7 miles per gallon. I would also like to know how to get better gas mileage for this truck.
  • noballznoballz Posts: 2
    i have a 2000 ranger 2.5L engine that i am looking to do some performace upgrades to mostly just to get better gass mileage, is there any place to get a header for it because i cant find any place that has one for this engine
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    It's a truck, it isn't going to get good milage.

    You already have the 4 cylinder, that's about as good as it's going to get.
  • dryefusdryefus Posts: 1

    Was your problem the throttle position sensor? A friend has a similar problem with a 1999 Ranger. Except it ALWAYS chokes out. He cannot get the engine over 1500 rpms. One interesting symptom is when the throttle is released it will rev for a moment before returning to idle.
  • I have a '98 2.3L stick. When it idles, the AC compressor clicks on and off every 2-3 seconds. When it clicks on, the RPMs dip down so much I'm a little afraid its gonna die. It stops doing it when I rev the engine above about 2000 RPMs or when I turn the vent dial on the climate control to OFF. Also, the A/C doesn't get nearly as cold as it used to. I checked the refrigerant level and it's got plenty.
    Am I gonna need a whole new compressor?
    Please tell me this is an easy fix. :sick:
  • jonnylawjonnylaw Posts: 1
    I have a 93 ranger 5 speed (4x4) , just put a new 3.0 short block in a week ago, but every other day I have a power problem, seems i lack power going down the road. Still drives very nice for a newer lower end motor, but picks up the pony's well only after 3rd gear. Just wounder if the injectors could be bad or??!! any help would be great
  • flychukerflychuker Posts: 3
    I have a 98 Ranger 4.0L V6. The starter cranks but the engine won't start. After checking the starter, battery, fuel pump, and fuses, we checked the coil pack. We had no spark from the coil pack and replaced it with new one. Still got no spark from the new coil pack. A friend suggests that it might be a relay switch. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions on what it could be and what I should check next?

  • kpbarberkpbarber Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Ranger 2.3 that is doing the same thing. Let me know if you figure it out!
  • Check your refrigerant. It probably needs to be recharged.
    As it turns out, mine had a small leak. Once that was fixed and the system recharged, the clicking stopped.
  • zacmzacm Posts: 2
    my 95 Ranger seems to idle very high in warm weather and while im driving.. ill come to a stop and it will still be idling very high until about 10 secs after i stop and when its cold it doesn't idle up at all which is whut i want it to do so i don't have to sit there with my foot on the gas pedal for 10 minutes until it finally warms up.. someone please tell me whuts wrong
  • scarab3scarab3 Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Explorer with a 4.0L. I left the key on last night and the battery was dead this morning. I charged the battery and now it cranks fine but, I don't have any spark. I thought it was the security system. Any thoughts.
  • flychukerflychuker Posts: 3
    I ended up taking mine to a mechanic and it turned out to be a sensor on the crank shaft that was bad. Ended up costing about $130 with parts and labor. Hope this helps. Good luck.
  • 89ranger189ranger1 Posts: 1
    1989 Ranger 2.9 engine 5 speed. Bought with 107k miles, now has 133k miles. Maybe 15k miles ago (8 months?) it began to lose power once it warmed up. I commute (highway miles) & after approx 20-25 miles of driving, the truck's engine sound changes, it immediately begins to run rough, & struggles to do 55mph. Often drops down to 45mph regardless of load. Previous owner installed oil pressure gauge; oil pressure is normal. RPMs drop to 2000 or so during these "episodes" & will not exceed 3000. Sometimes "check engine" light comes on if I rev engine to get RPMs up; light usually goes off eventually. Uphill is slightly worse but even downhill truck will often not exceed 50mph with the gas pedal floored. Sometimes barely makes 40 mph & I have to use flashers the rest of the way home. Feathering off accelerator and letting truck lag along at 40-45mph SOMETIMES helps, but not always. Usually it remains that way till I stop for an hour and let if cool off; a few times it has recovered somewhat after I feather off accelerator and don't try to do more than 50. My mechanic said it was fuel filter; installed new one. Nope. "Catalytic converter must be stopped up". He cut cat converter off and installed new muffler (old one was rusted). No change. There are no oil leaks. Truck is using too much coolant but mechanic said it could be "bad radiator cap". I keep coolant in it and check daily; truck doesn't appear to be overheating. But is it really water going into the engine? Is it blow-by? Help--- this truck is uncomfortable as hell (infamous fall-apart Ranger seats!) and I don't want to keep putting money into it, but can't afford new truck. Any easy fix?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    My wild guess from long distance, especially since you say "using too much coolant" (a car should not 'use' any coolant), is bad head gasket.

    Not real bad, since you don't say it is overheating, but a head gasket anyway. The coolant is going somewhere.
  • fordtechfordtech Posts: 34
    I am with bolivar on this one. It sounds like coolant is cooling down the cylinders and not allowing the engine to produce maximum power. Also the coolant going into the exhaust will cause the 02 sensors to stop operating.

    I would have a cylinder compression test done. All cylinders should be within 5psi of each other.

    Ford Tech
  • jack78jack78 Posts: 5
    There are some chemicals on the market that will help in the swelling of the front seal. but other than that you will need a new seal and sleeve for the convertor.
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