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Ford Ranger Engine questions

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  • rbd008rbd008 Posts: 3
    My ranger has starting problems even when warm. I have to crank it usually 3 time before it starts. I see where the coolant temp sensor is next to the thermostat. But, if there is a 2nd sensor where would it be located? It runs fine after starting. The fuel filter was supposedly changed about 3000 miles ago during my last oil change by "Jiffy Lube"
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, if it starts hard cold and hot, it isn't the temp sensor.

    Does it blow a lot of smoke after one of these hard starts? If so, it might be a leaky fuel injector, overloading a cylinder with gas.
  • This isn't necessarily specific to Ford Rangers but I have a question regarding my O2 sensors. A mechanic told me I have a bad O2 sensor, so I'm going to replace it. My only problem is that I don't know which one is bad. What's the best way for me to find out? Can I just use a voltage meter? Also, are there any online tech manuals, or something of the sort, that have this info in detail? I think I have only 2 sensors, but am not sure. 99 Ranger XLT 4L
  • 93 4.0 183K miles

    The other day I was driving home, when I red line the engine when gear slipped out. Got home no problem. Next day I went to start it, it would not start.It would crank. I tried it for a bit. Finally got it to start, but running rough and missing,with white smoke from tail pipe. I am thinking Blown head gasket. I checked the plugs, they were fouled, so replaced them and wires. Truck started up no problem. running better. but still smokes. well 6 hours later I go to start it up. It wont start. just like before. Check Engine light is on. It Seems to start fine once the Temp is up some. Going to go by Autozone today and see what the computer says.

    Bad temp sensor? Is the Head gasket Blown? Am I missing something? Please help?

    Also it seems to have made a whole in my muffler. Needed to be replaced before all this happened.
  • I have an 86 2.3 4cyl, when I drive the truck, its feels like it has no power. It feels like is lacks any compression. Could this be caused by possible fuel pump or filter problem? Or perhaps the fuel injector going bad? I did give it a tune up with new plugs and wires,etc. But Still no change. Any ideas?
  • I recently bought a 97 Mazda (Ford Ranger) B2300 for $1500 with 146,000 Mi. Its, so far, the nicest vehicle I've ever owned, Everything is wonderful except that it seems underpowered. -- It will go 80 -- at 3000 RPM, but doesn't want to go faster (except downhill) It seems like the 5 speed stick with an O on the top gear could be geared a little too high. I have thought of getting smaller tires--but the tire guy says they are the manufacturers reccomended size. Are all the 2300s hard to get over 80 or is it this one i've got?? Should I check the compression?? Is there any easy turbo installation?? How would I know/check if the catalytic converter is restricted??. It runs strong up to 4500+ in fourth, third.............Its not really too much of a problem though..........Where I live (Nantucket) the top speed limit is 45. When I drive to N.Y I like to do 90 behind someone else who can afford the $1500.00 ticket. I can live with 80 but I don"t like to keep it floored for hours at a time. Any help on this one will be much appreciated. I am a Detroit guy here on the Island. If I were in Detroit I could solve this quick!! Thanks, Tom
  • I just posted the LOW POWER ALSO post after yours. Did your 2300 ever have better power?? Did it go 90?? How many miles does it have?? Thanks, Tom
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Good grief, it's a 4 cylinder! The only one I drove, I classified it as horribly underpowered.

    And, I think all of them are limited to about 90mph, even the 4L V6's, where the injectors cut off. Ford doesn't want this to be a high speed vehicle.
  • Yeah, Oh I guess it was sort of dumb to complain about 80 MPH @ 3000 RPM. Just talked to a friend with a Dakota six & he cant go more than 75 MPH. Still really do hate to have the foot to the floor at 80! The powerband seems strongest 3000 to 4000 RPM, so if I cou;d get the revs up a little into that band, maybe 85-90 woud be possible. I am thinkingg more & more TURBO!!! I see a turbo on e-bay $500?? Any ideas??? Thanks in advance, T
  • Would anyone have timing belt picture diagram for a distributorless 2.3 engine? Where does the auxilliary timing pulley pointer point at, that use to be for the distributor ? All info appreciated! I have a manual but it is not very clear as to where the timing marks are !
    Larryr
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Save your $500. Remember it's a ten year old truck. Any forced induction might terminate any life remaining in the motor. Not to mention that bogus turbo on ebay. I think it actually restricts airflow.

    Good luck! ;)
  • thecyberlabs:
    Minor customizer of Ford Rangers:
    -Getting more HP out of your Ford Ranger.

    *check 02 Sensor. (install new one regardless -stock O2 sensors are weak)
    *new transmission (for under $1000 you can have a brand new -better than factory - rebuilt transmission INSTALLED - I can show you where and how)
    *good oil
    *good gas
    *proper tire inflation
    *proper tires (I suggest 15's for a bit better performance on a typical 2.3L Ford)
    *lowering kit (my next project - will improve performance and MPG)

    -All in all with my upgrades and modification tweeks, I have the two fastest 'off the shelf' parts Ford Rangers in town. The 90' ranger can actually squeal it's tires in 3rd gear, and pull away from even exotics like a low end Porsche...imagine the heads turning while my scrappy 90 Ford Ranger squeals its tires racing a Honda Civic..and winning. Top end though..I can only get the 90 Ford at top speed to about 85..the 96 Ford I can get now up to the top speed of about 92.
    Also using a cover helps with performance and drag coefficients. I use a basic tonneau cover and I have a lot better stability in high winds than the Ford Rangers that don't (even if the back gate is open).

    A thing about Ford Rangers and high speeds...not a good idea!
    At about 90MPH, they tend to get skittish, due to oversteering probably.
    At about 95..This gets to be dangerous...at 100MPG..it's not good...the truck tends to get very unstable. I do believe these trucks are specifically detuned so they don't exceed these numbers.

    Word of caution..do not buy ANY gimmick modifications...like cheap sensors that claim 10HP gains and 12MPG increases..they ain't so...
  • When you say no power are you meaning that it feels sluggish as though it just doesn't want to accelerate. Also does it seem like it misses when you go up a hill or anything to that nature??

    I would think to check your catalytic converter. If you have never replaced it that could be clogged. Depending on where you live and the emmissions checks I would just get them removed since they tend to be rather expensive.

    If you have fixed problem I would like to know what you did in order to fix it?

    Good luck!
  • Yeah, Cybertrucker. I don't know much about computer controled injection. The Check engine light does come on every once in a while. I'll check the oxygen sensor to see what sort of readings it is registering. To me it seems as though the timing is a little retarded, but whatever the other problems, reaching 80 and being flat out @ 3000 RPM is a problem in that the power band of the engine is ABOVE 3000 RPM, most likely in the 3500 to 4500 range. And I like the gearing for my day to day no faster than 50 life here 0n this Island where the top speed limit is 45. Its only on my trips to NY that I want to be able to go 95 or 90 not 80. Just seems like a tutbo would be a decent solution to these circumstances. Gas milaqge is my top priority as gas here is 50 cents or a dollar more than you are paying on the mainland $3.40-$3.90. Also the turbo would not make the engine wurk any harder in my day to day commute at 45. I'm thinking a used Saab or Merceces turbo would do the job. The hot side would be a bit tricky, the cool side a piece of cake Someone must have done this already. Thanks
  • I have a 1992 Ranger 2.3L with 160K miles. Recent engine noise has been diagnosed as worn cam followers. I am wondering if this is a common problem with this engine? I have been told it will cost @ $2000 to repair. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
  • I UNDERSTAND THAT PREVIOUS BUILT FROM 2003 RANGER 3.0 HAS A TSB FOR BELT NOISES.ANYONE KNOW OF IT?
  • I just purchased a 2005 Ranger xlt 4x4 4.0l edge. the previous owner put a K&N air filter converson kit on, I would like to have the orginal air box for the filter, it helps keep the filter cleaner, without loss of performance, anyone know where I can get one?? Also since this is the XLT, do the door switches have lights for night driving, (EX. the lock sw or window sw?)
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Mr. Salvage is your friend.
  • Thanks for the reply, I was hoping that maybe some one might have one laying around that I could purchase for a reasonable price.
  • i have a 1990 2.3L and need atiming diaghram. can any one help?
  • where is the in take runner found ford ranger 2.3
    engine.
  • kreuzerkreuzer Posts: 122
    owned a Ranger,but am considering it. However, I have driven Ford products with the 2.3L engine and found them to be somewhat underpowered. Since I know this, I know what to expect if I do purchase one with the 2.3. My question is, though maybe underpowered, how reliable and what issues does this engine have and how good are the automatic trannys in these? Any other issues to consider? Thanks to all.
  • My 1992 Ranger started pinging around 50K miles. I put up with it for years and burned premimum gas to help control the problem. Finally I was told by a mechanic to have the fuel injectors power cleaned. I took my truck to a Ford dealer and Paid $200 to have it done. It completely solved the problem and the engine ran as good as when it was new. I just noticed you have a V6, my engine is a 4cyl. I feel confident telling you it will solve your problem. Good Luck
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    The 4 cylinder is underpowered, in my opinion.

    Other than that, it's a Ranger. I had a 94 Ranger and I loved my truck.

    It had what I considered about normal maintenance things, maybe somewhat more than I would have liked but I still loved my truck.

    It needed front disks and rotor, plugs and wires, radiator leaked and replaced, brake light switch replaced 3 or 4 times (why did this happen so much?), window regular, power window motor. Sold it at about 75,000 miles, it was in great shape, and a friend that is a car dealer got a lot of money for it. And a kid in Arizona got a great Christmas present from his Grandpa!
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    The 4 cylinder is underpowered, in my opinion.

    Other than that, it's a Ranger. I had a 94 Ranger and I loved my truck.

    It had what I considered about normal maintenance things, maybe somewhat more than I would have liked but I still loved my truck.

    It needed front disks and rotor, plugs and wires, radiator leaked and replaced, brake light switch replaced 3 or 4 times (why did this happen so much?), window regulator, power window motor. Sold it at about 75,000 miles, it was in great shape, and a friend that is a car dealer got a lot of money for it. And a kid in Arizona got a great Christmas present from his Grandpa!
  • this might sound like a silly question but here it is,
    I own a 94 STX super cab ranger with 250,000 miles at 212,000 i replaced the motor due to a bad valve ( wasn't going to pass up the deal on a whole motor with approx-70,000 miles on odometer,thing was this motor inside was real clean due to i had to replace a valve cover scince the retard at the auto-salvage place dented it. Now mind you I had once worked at Roush in design aid and pulled many of these out and in (never ran after) but the motor I purchased was out of a 93 I saw the vehiclei t came out of and it was slightly rough on the outside ,this is not a problem due to I like the power it now has , but originally when i bought the truck in 94 it wasn't a speed demon its 4x4 but now with this newer engine i can and i mean roast em at a dead dig, dry pavement i can bark em taking off and slight dusting of wet i just set this sucker side ways to no end, I was just wondering scince it does slightly lope and I did put in another ECM after I dropped the motor in ,the ECM is from someone from light truck , and it just rocks out but even with the stock ECM it was about the same but now I just get better shift points and better milage,,. could this motor i dropped in have been tweeked before I bought it because it runs more like a 5.0 than a 4.0...Just wondering even my wife noticed the power 1 day (I pissed her off 1 day and she stomped it when she left.i think she almost crapped her shorts)...I've always had this thought in back of my mind scince and so has my buddy who helped me drop this motor in.....
  • I think the engine you have now is just in better shape than your original one ever was. If the 4.0 you have now is tweeked as you say, I think you would notice it. About the only things you can upgrade on that engine, is headers, cam, throttle intake, and manifold. The reason it may seem to have so much power is because your truck isn't very heavy, and doesn't require a lot of power to get off the line. If this question is really nagging you, have a mechanic look at it for you to see if there were any upgrades.
  • I'm thinking about ordering a 2008 2wd Ford Ranger with 4.0 & auto trans. Can I get any feed back from owners of newer Rangers w/4.0. I was also thinking about a (PLEASE DON"T LAUGH) Chevy. I've only owned Ford trucks but I got upset with my Excursion when the V-10 blew a spark plug out of the head. I'm a retired GM employee and can get a better discount on GM then Ford. I've been on the Chevy website and seems like everyone is talking about having to replace the cylinder head on their I5 & I4 engines. Any feed back, good or bad, will be a HUGE help.
  • I have a 99 ranger 4x4 with a 4.O litre engine.
    It started missing the other day, it is giving a code 171( bank 1 too lean) and says cylinder 2 is misfiring.
    Is this a bad injector on the #2 cylinder?
    I was going to switch the #2 injector to the other side and see if the problem followed till I saw you have to pull the entire intake off and with injectors being as expensive as they are I don't want to change it if I don't have too.
    Any help with this is greatly appriciated.
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