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Ford Ranger Engine questions

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  • I've owned this truck scince new, and i've gone up against a few other rangers of the same yr and same options...its alot faster when new you couldn't stop pedal down on dry pavement and get em to spin over or pull next to a 4.3 S-10 and spank em in such a way that they are left wondering if you dropped a V8 in the confines of the V6 engine bay..it idles like its been cammed its low end torque feels like its been cammed. my neighbor down the street has the excact truck same options with 4wheel drive and auto just like mine, he's driven it..now he wants his as fast...
  • Ok I see where your coming from now on the power issue now that you have explained it better. All you have had is an engine change so I doubt that the PCM has been modified with a power chip. There is a chance that some upgrade was done on that motor you now have. If it idles like it has a cam upgrade and now you have a comparison vehicle that has less power. You probably have a cam upgrade in your motor. To my knowledge, even though various years used the same engine, there isn't suppose to be any improvement in power in the newer stock engines. Hey, you lucked out....enjoy!
  • I have had the same problem for a while now. But now when i accelerate under load the engine stutters severely. The engine also stutters while in third gear at about 35mph.

    Still looking for answers myself.
  • Sounds like you have a bad TPS(throttle positioning sensor. Here is how you check it. KOEO key on engine off. Verify 5volt referance at sensor. Looking at the back of the 3 wire plug, this is what each wire is for. 5v TP signal PCM(-). Location is mounted on throttle body on the other side of you throttle linkage. As throttle linkage moves, it turns this potentiometer. Works similar to a dimmer switch. All this testing is done with the key on engine off.

    This should be checked with a digital graphing meter but a DVM can be used.
    If you have your 5v referance, and ground, then check the middle wire for voltage while the throttle position is in idle position engine off. The voltage should be between .7volts to 1.1volts. While still conected move the throttle by hand smoothly. You should read a smooth increase in voltage at the middle wire (tp signal) When you reach WOT wide open throttle the voltage should be about 4.5volts. (engine off, key on) Understand that there is an allowable differance in referance voltage and ground of .2-.3 volts depending on the equipment being used. So if your referance voltage is 5.2 volts or 4.8 volts, thats still ok.

    While in the idle position if your reading higher voltage than 1.1v, then your PCM thinks your demanding additional throttle. Some TPS are adjustable with slotted hold down screws, but most likely your tps is defective. Good luck, get back to me and repost.
  • Hey All! I have a little issue with :confuse: my idle. Here's whats happening; the engine starts just fine when cold, the idle is at around 1050 rpm's then after about 20 seconds or so it drops to around 750 r's this is normal. Now that the engine is warmed up, like after the ride to work (20 miles or so) shut it off and everything is fine until break time (2 hrs. later) start the engine and it returns to high idle and then about 2 seconds later the idle drops to about 100 rpm's (barely running!) but doesn't actually stall, this usually lasts about 2 to 3 seconds before correcting itself and returning to normal idle speed. This has been happening since around 90'000 mi. Truck now has 97000 on it. I'd appreciate any insight anyone has to offer on this annoying little "issue." Thank You.
  • Sounds like a bad IAC valve [idle air control valve]and or build up of carbon in the throttle body intake. If there are no trouble codes, this is what I would check first.
  • i have a 94 4wd 5-spd 4.0. i just replaced the spark plugs and wires and i saw a good jump in gas mileage. i was getting 15 mpg city before and now i am getting 18.5 city. not too shabby for a older 4wd.
  • I have a 95 4litre ranger and my oil has smelled like gas the last couple oil changes, its not starting hard so its not flooding itself just noticed the smell in the oil, anyone know how to troubleshoot this proble?
  • hi i have a 94 ford ranger splash that is overheating only when i stop and idle for awhile.it doesn't completely overheat the temp gauge goes way up.i have a feeling it is the water pump.anyone know a way to test it without changing it? :confuse:
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    If it is indeed the water pump you will probably notice a leak at the base of the fan and/or some noise coming from that area. Sounds more like you have a blockage somewhere or a radiator that needs replacing. Kind of hard to tell without looking.
  • dper299dper299 Posts: 19
    I have a 98 ranger 4.0L with 130,000 miles. It recentley started making a squeeking sound while at idle,almost sounds like a belt slipping,Well it seems I have located the noise I traced the noise with a stethoscope to the back top of the intake is there anything back there that could be making this sound..Any ideas will help ..Thanks
  • ive recently started having problems with my 2000 ford ranger it is idling eratically, hard to start, isnt accelerating like it should, is runnin rich, and occasionaly tries to die on me ive done a tune up replaced all my filters, plugs, oil, tps, O2 sensors and my thermostat due to a coolant leak havent found the leak yet but it doesnt appear to be seeping into my oil yet no milky color and the truck only smokes when i first crank it up after it warms up she seems to run fine except at an idle im thinkin either my eec or my egr but would love some feedback
  • I bet the smoke when you first start it up is black or dark brown. If so, there is too much fuel entering the engine. A leaking or stuck open fuel injecter or a vaccum leak in the fuel pressure regulator diaphram will introduce excessive fuel into the engine. The easiest thing to check is the fuel pressure regulator. Pull the vac line off and look for evidence of raw fuel inside the vac line and or diaphram. Is there a check engine light on? Unfortunately, the most common is a leaking fuel injecter. To check for this you need a fuel pressure gauge. You have to pinch off or block the return fuel line. Hook up the guage and turn the key to on (run position). See if the pressure bleeds off. The pressure should be arround 35-40psi. Good luck.
  • tgwiiitgwiii Posts: 5
    O.K. O.K. YER NOT GONNA BELIEVE THIS 1...I posted #130 "LOW POWER ALSO" .......That the B2300 4 cylinder 5 Speed Overdrive 2WD would only go 80 @ about 3000 RPM....That was about a month after I bought it.. Where I live the top speed limit is 45..... So last week on Monday the 19 of March I drove down to Washington. DC....A cool clear day with a North-Westerly flow maybe 10 or 15 MPH. There was alota traffic so I didn't really get to run, until the second hour on the road in Eastern Rhode Island which is a little hilly. On one of the hills I am going 75 as I start to climb and as I go up the hill , it is slowly gaining a bit almost to 80, going downI am up to 90 and as it levels off I am still gaining 91, 92, 93-94!! slowly it crept up to 95 on the flat and I ran for a couple of miles in the 93-95 range B4 I chicken out....and let her drop down to a safer 75.....in the 65 zone I was in...And on the way back I had quite a bit of acceleration (for a 4) from 80 to 85 and was able to run at 95 for six miles---------------One more thing, The steering & handling were just as good at 100 as at 60..... That stuff about bad steering in the 90s seems 2B wrong!!! WHAT DID I DO TO IT------to get 15 MPH more on top-end??? The ONLY things that were different from "floored at 80" ....were......Change the cap from a Leer (with a sag in the roof) to an A.R.E., ditched the bedliner........and put 37 Lbs, of air in the tires, up from 30...Nothing more!! I know, I know......That could not be it....Yeah I agree, Was it Clara on the Psychics network and her over the phone Ouija Tune Up?? Naw, I don't think so..............I think that the catalytic converter was a little clogged up and the bumpy roads on the Island & the 10% Brazilian alcohol in the Extra Mart gas I use cleaned our the carbon......But I'm open 4 suggestions WTF!! Now the truck is perfect for me.........Great gas mileage, comfortable to sleep in the nice tinted windows A.R.E. cap and keeps up with 95% of the traffic...for $1500. What a deal.. My drive to DC and back--NO problems--between 75 & 95 the whole way-except cross Bronx...What do you think??? Tom
  • i have a 99 ranger and when i put it into drive it seems like it wants to stall and i wont let me gas it up to get it moveing. it will roll and eventually get up to 50 or what ever speed but on start offs it doesnt wanna move it almost feels like its going to stall. and when i put it in to reverse it like slams into it and wants to go. has anyone had this problem? i have it at a local shop and they are stumped.
  • kel4343kel4343 Posts: 1
    The check engine light came on it was a cylinder 3 misfire, so I changed plugs and wires. Now it is fine on flat ground but still throws the code on inclines. Ant suggestions 2003 ranger 3.0
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    3 Liter Rangers ping.

    Live with it or move up to mid-grade or premium gas.
  • mike271mike271 Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Madza 6cyl. auto 4x4. I replaced the engine with a salvage motor with 50,000 miles on it. Everything is working great. Except I have a high idle all the time. Seems like the automatic choke is on and I can't pedal it down. Even after warm up its still high. When I brake you can feel the truck trying to surge ahead. My repair guy said I need a new computer chip of some kind. The cost would be about $85. Any guess what kind of chip and could I do it myself for a cheaper price?
  • i've heard that the newer models have an idle control chip but i wouldn't know anything about them. i have a 94 ranger that had the same problem but the idle speed control on it was a screw on the throttle body that was easily accessible and easy to adjust. check for that and if you don't have it then i don't know anything about the chips
  • paul1899paul1899 Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 ranger 4 cly 5 speed about 65,000.
    1. about once a month after driving i go to start it and it will kinda start. Engine shakes like crazy and can not keep it running. First time it did it a friend of mine who has a Mech shop put it on computer showed everything ok. Ran great again for a little over a month. Then did it again missed work had it towed to ford dealership still would only shake on starting. I wiated at dealership a couple of hours they came out and said its running fine now they did not do anything and computer showed again nothing amiss. Ford people said maybe fuel pump maybe $650 for a maybe i said no. It did it again about a month after that but this time i let it sit for about 30 minutes and cycled key on and off a few times and it started and ran fine. I am going to replace fuel filter probably not it but a place to start. Any other suggestions. 2. I have a rattled coming from left front wheel area driving me up a wall. I hear it on normal bumps in road. When i jack up front end and hit things with a rubber mallet nothing. Any help. Other than that it is a great truck i get between 25 and 28 mpg on highway. Thanks Paul
  • hi my name is jarrett and i have a 1998 ford ranger with 138,000 miles on it and just yesterday got the oil changed and now its making a really loud rattling noise that goes away at like 1500 rpm but at idle u can hear it really loud and clear i don't know what it is i have no warning lights and full oil pressure so i have no clue what it is and its worrying me badly i drive almost 30 miles a day and i need this truck please tell me whats wrong
  • sry forgot to tell u about the engine its a 4.0 v6 EFI
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Ok, once upon a time I read another Ranger forum, a really good one, with a lot of postings.

    For 4 Liter Rangers of about your age, there was a wide-spread problem of 'marbles in a tin can' rattle noise. But most of these were occuring at much lower milage. Some on almost new trucks, with just a few thousand miles. And some of them did seem to occur, or get worse, after an oil change.

    As far as I know, there was never much of an actual determination of what caused this. Loose wrist pins, piston apron slap, etc, etc, were talked about, but nothing was ever pinned down as the cause. Ford did not want to do much about it either, calling it 'normal'. A few people did get Ford to replace engines, and some of the replacements had the noise come back.

    The last I read about it, most people were just driving the truck, and the noise was not causeing much of a problem.

    With your somewhat high milage, I'm not sure if you have run into the same thing. About the only thing I could tell you is to stick your head under the hood and see if you can narrow down where the noise is coming from. The 'marbles in a can' noise came from deep inside the motor, the 'bottom end', such as the crank.

    You didn't put some strange oil into the truck? Did you get the correct filter?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    A bad plug wire?

    At 65,000 miles, if you have the orginial plugs and wires, it's time to replace both.
  • rangerman4rangerman4 Posts: 1
    I have a 98 ranger, 4 cyl, manual. A month ago my check engine light came on. About a week or two later the engine wouldn't return to idle speed when I pushed in on the clutch. When I push the clutch the engine hangs at about 1800 rpm for 10-15 seconds, revs a little higher, then returns to proper idle speed. It only does it on a warm day after I have been driving for a while. Otherwise the truck seems to run pretty good.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    -Get the 'codes' pulled to see why your check engine light is on.
    -Look for a floor mat on top of you accelerator pedal.
    -Clean the thottle body. There may be so much crap there that the throttle valve will not close.
    -The Idle Speed Valve may be gunked up.
    -The throttle cable may be binding.
  • fkidderfkidder Posts: 1
    I have an '03 Ranger , 3.0 V6 w/ air. I replaced the tensioner pully and now I can't get the new belt back on. It is the correct belt for this engine, I have pulled the tensioner all the way back and it just won't slip over the pully. Is there a trick to this? It just seems the belt is to short by an inch or so!

    Thanks for any help,

    Rick
  • havasuedhavasued Posts: 2
    New to the forum here. 02 4.0 auto trans 2by. had the truck since new 54000 easy miles. in november of 06 had the oil changed at a local shop cause i was out of time. noticed after this a slight bottem end rattle til oil pressure came up if the truck had set for a couple days. when I changed the oil myself 4months latter the filter came off with out spilling a drop. this truck ALWAYS pukes a bunch out of the filter when you unscrew it. I know what the did. they used a filter with a crappy anti drain back valve or a filter that just didn.t have one. when I went back to my regular filter never heard the noise again until just a couple days ago. we had a heat wave here in havasu ( heat wave for may at least 115 degrees.) been using 5-30 like ford recomends. been thinking of going to 10-30. would think if the crappy filter caused any damage it would have reared its ugly head by now. heard a lot about 4.0 and 4.6's/5.4's having a rattle at start sometimes. I know these engines( 4.0 / V8"s) share no DNA but they both use 5-30. ford does not recomend 10-30 even in the heat of arizona. My thinking is the 10-30 won't siphon out of the bottom end as easy when the engine sits for a day or two when nothing ever cools down below 90-100 degrees at night. Any desert boys out there got some thoughts??
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