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Ford Ranger Engine questions



  • sadrielsadriel Posts: 1
    My boyfriend has a ford ranger. He recently ran it out of oil while i was riding with him! I made him pull over, and we put oil in it, but the oil pressure did not come back up.

    So, I went and changed the oil, and put a new filter on it - still no oil pressure.
    Replaced the sender in hopes it was the sender - still no oil pressure. Now, its beginning to tick...

    Is the oil pump hard to get to? its a 98 with a 2Liter.

    Please help. Is the oil pump a common part to go? Or is it possible that I just have a plug somewhere?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Ok, do what I did. I got out of my 94 Ranger and bought a new Corvette.

    Next-to-last tank of gas gave 29.2mpg. Last tank was 27.7. It does require premium.....
  • geoffcgeoffc Posts: 1
    I have a 1987 Ranger 2WD with 250,000 km. It's got the 2.9L 6cyl. 10W30 oil. It starts fine and the oil pressure gauge reads at about 1/4 up (I believe that it used to be at about the 1/2 way mark). Once the engine is warm the oil pressure drops and at idle it drops down to nearly nil as the engine idles roughly, then stalls. It won't stall if I rev the engine.

    I'm thinking the gauge must be fine because the rough idle/stalling accompanies the low pressure. I'm not prepared to spend the time or money on an oil pump replacement, if that's what it turns out to be. Any alternative ideas to try before I relegate it to the scrappers?
  • abell2abell2 Posts: 2
    What is the normal start rpms for 02,4.0 Ranger...?? Mine starts up at 1850 to 2100!!!! The EGR system checks out,put a new idle control solenoid and it still kicks up..?? The idle does come down to the normal but ?? Sometimes it RattleS like a bad mixture or what..thoughts??
  • I have a '94 Ford Ranger 3.0, with about 137,000 miles on it. Once in a while (maybe once or twice every time im driving) when im cruising, or sometimes when im accelerating, it will cut out for a second, like a brief hesitation, then it will be fine again. The engine is not burning oil or any fluids, and the radiator isnt using extra coolant, temperature seems to be normal. Anyone have any idea what this could be? Fuel injectors perhaps?
  • seed60seed60 Posts: 1
    Here of late the truck cuts off when when you put it into park. The idle fluxuates and eventually stalls. I have check the oil, and other fluids. Has anyone had this problem before? I looked at the topic "idles rough until stall" and saw low oil pressure. Does anyone know of a solution for this problem??
  • hayparkhaypark Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 ranger that is doing the exact same thing. Did you find out what the problem was?
  • hayparkhaypark Posts: 2
    Did you ever figure out what is causing the idle problem? Mine is doing the same thing.
  • sammy18sammy18 Posts: 4
    I have not found the answer. I have changed the idle speed control valve and checked for vacuum leeks and still have the problem. I will continue to work on it, if you find the answer please let me know.
  • ltpageltpage Posts: 3
    I'm hearing an alarm somewhere behind the glove box of my 1997 Ford Ranger. It only sounds after I first start the engine for 10 or 15 seconds then stops.It is a different sound than the normal seat belt alarms and such. The truck seems to be running ok.
  • Hey, I bought my ranger in 2005 with it being an 02 model and I have a question about the engine. well, I've noticed at the beginning of the year that it's not getting the right amount of mileage that it should be. I think it's suppose to be getting around 300 to the tank, but now it's more like 230 at max. Also, since it's been making clanking noises when i would accelerate, I had to switch to mild-grade on the gas (and it helps), but I'm not sure if they are related.
    But, right now it's at the ford dealership getting warrenty work on the aircondition. I have extended service plan so i don't know if maybe some of the engine problems will be with the warrenty.
    but if anyone has an ideas, let me know please. I just want my truck to be fixed so i can move on. :)
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    You have the 3Liter V6, right?

    They ping. This is what you are hearing. Higher grade of gas is about only thing to help with this.
  • Yeah it's a 3.0L V6. I know the pinging noise will go away with using the medium grade gas. But with using that type of gas, is it normal to lose a little gas mileage??
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I would have thought it might give better milage.

    But if you are not writting milages down and carefully calculating each fillup, your milage figures are useless.

    Such as 'I get xxx miles on a tank of gas!'

    My 94 4Liter with a cap got about 14 in town and the highest I ever saw was 18.5 on highway driving. I now have a Honda Ridgeline which gets 19-20mpg on the highway and is a much larger, 4wheel drive truck.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    How do you figure highway and city driving mileage? I would think that you divide the mileage by the amount of gallons used at fillup. Unless of course you have a computer that tells you your current mpg as you drive. Even then to state 18.5 highway? How accurate can that be?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I do it the way you said, which is the correct way to do in. Every car of mine has a small notepad where each fillup and its milage is logged.

    I've seen lots of postings where people say "My whatsit used to get 300 miles to a tank it now only gets 275. What is wrong with it?" This isn't a milage calculation.
  • rbd008rbd008 Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Ranger V6 3.0L that has suddenly become hard to start. I replaced plugs, checked hoses and replaced the IAC valve but still no change. Any suggestions?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Does it start ok when hot? If so, the following may be the problem.

    You probably have two temperature sensors. One drives the guage on the dash.

    The other talks to the computer and gives it the coolant temperature. This one has possibly failed. It is not telling the computer that the engine is cold. Under cold starting conditions, the computer increase the fuel amount injected (unriches the mixture). If this enrichment is not done, it will be hard to start.

    This sensor will usually have black and yellow wires, twisted together, coming off it.

    Or, your fuel pump may be failing and is not giving enough pressure to start. I would think this would cause other problem, like missing at high speed due to fuel starvation. A pressure guage on the schrader valve on the fuel injector line should give the pressure readings. I don't know exactly what they should be, but around 40lbs, I think, is usually in the range of a good working fuel pump. The fuel pump is inside the gas tank.

    Or, you might just have a clogged fuel filter, if you have a lot of miles and it's never been changed. Or you got a tank of dirty gas.

    I don't think the IAC valve has anything to do with starting, only idle speed.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    I'd also change the wires if you're still running the original. Not that it has anything to do with a hard start. Just that with the engine comparment temp the wires deteriorate and at 5 years would be a good idea to replace along with the plugs.
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