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Ford Ranger Engine questions

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  • i have a 1990 2.3L and need atiming diaghram. can any one help?
  • where is the in take runner found ford ranger 2.3
    engine.
  • kreuzerkreuzer Posts: 113
    owned a Ranger,but am considering it. However, I have driven Ford products with the 2.3L engine and found them to be somewhat underpowered. Since I know this, I know what to expect if I do purchase one with the 2.3. My question is, though maybe underpowered, how reliable and what issues does this engine have and how good are the automatic trannys in these? Any other issues to consider? Thanks to all.
  • My 1992 Ranger started pinging around 50K miles. I put up with it for years and burned premimum gas to help control the problem. Finally I was told by a mechanic to have the fuel injectors power cleaned. I took my truck to a Ford dealer and Paid $200 to have it done. It completely solved the problem and the engine ran as good as when it was new. I just noticed you have a V6, my engine is a 4cyl. I feel confident telling you it will solve your problem. Good Luck
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    The 4 cylinder is underpowered, in my opinion.

    Other than that, it's a Ranger. I had a 94 Ranger and I loved my truck.

    It had what I considered about normal maintenance things, maybe somewhat more than I would have liked but I still loved my truck.

    It needed front disks and rotor, plugs and wires, radiator leaked and replaced, brake light switch replaced 3 or 4 times (why did this happen so much?), window regular, power window motor. Sold it at about 75,000 miles, it was in great shape, and a friend that is a car dealer got a lot of money for it. And a kid in Arizona got a great Christmas present from his Grandpa!
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    The 4 cylinder is underpowered, in my opinion.

    Other than that, it's a Ranger. I had a 94 Ranger and I loved my truck.

    It had what I considered about normal maintenance things, maybe somewhat more than I would have liked but I still loved my truck.

    It needed front disks and rotor, plugs and wires, radiator leaked and replaced, brake light switch replaced 3 or 4 times (why did this happen so much?), window regulator, power window motor. Sold it at about 75,000 miles, it was in great shape, and a friend that is a car dealer got a lot of money for it. And a kid in Arizona got a great Christmas present from his Grandpa!
  • this might sound like a silly question but here it is,
    I own a 94 STX super cab ranger with 250,000 miles at 212,000 i replaced the motor due to a bad valve ( wasn't going to pass up the deal on a whole motor with approx-70,000 miles on odometer,thing was this motor inside was real clean due to i had to replace a valve cover scince the retard at the auto-salvage place dented it. Now mind you I had once worked at Roush in design aid and pulled many of these out and in (never ran after) but the motor I purchased was out of a 93 I saw the vehiclei t came out of and it was slightly rough on the outside ,this is not a problem due to I like the power it now has , but originally when i bought the truck in 94 it wasn't a speed demon its 4x4 but now with this newer engine i can and i mean roast em at a dead dig, dry pavement i can bark em taking off and slight dusting of wet i just set this sucker side ways to no end, I was just wondering scince it does slightly lope and I did put in another ECM after I dropped the motor in ,the ECM is from someone from light truck , and it just rocks out but even with the stock ECM it was about the same but now I just get better shift points and better milage,,. could this motor i dropped in have been tweeked before I bought it because it runs more like a 5.0 than a 4.0...Just wondering even my wife noticed the power 1 day (I pissed her off 1 day and she stomped it when she left.i think she almost crapped her shorts)...I've always had this thought in back of my mind scince and so has my buddy who helped me drop this motor in.....
  • I think the engine you have now is just in better shape than your original one ever was. If the 4.0 you have now is tweeked as you say, I think you would notice it. About the only things you can upgrade on that engine, is headers, cam, throttle intake, and manifold. The reason it may seem to have so much power is because your truck isn't very heavy, and doesn't require a lot of power to get off the line. If this question is really nagging you, have a mechanic look at it for you to see if there were any upgrades.
  • I'm thinking about ordering a 2008 2wd Ford Ranger with 4.0 & auto trans. Can I get any feed back from owners of newer Rangers w/4.0. I was also thinking about a (PLEASE DON"T LAUGH) Chevy. I've only owned Ford trucks but I got upset with my Excursion when the V-10 blew a spark plug out of the head. I'm a retired GM employee and can get a better discount on GM then Ford. I've been on the Chevy website and seems like everyone is talking about having to replace the cylinder head on their I5 & I4 engines. Any feed back, good or bad, will be a HUGE help.
  • I have a 99 ranger 4x4 with a 4.O litre engine.
    It started missing the other day, it is giving a code 171( bank 1 too lean) and says cylinder 2 is misfiring.
    Is this a bad injector on the #2 cylinder?
    I was going to switch the #2 injector to the other side and see if the problem followed till I saw you have to pull the entire intake off and with injectors being as expensive as they are I don't want to change it if I don't have too.
    Any help with this is greatly appriciated.
  • I've owned this truck scince new, and i've gone up against a few other rangers of the same yr and same options...its alot faster when new you couldn't stop pedal down on dry pavement and get em to spin over or pull next to a 4.3 S-10 and spank em in such a way that they are left wondering if you dropped a V8 in the confines of the V6 engine bay..it idles like its been cammed its low end torque feels like its been cammed. my neighbor down the street has the excact truck same options with 4wheel drive and auto just like mine, he's driven it..now he wants his as fast...
  • Ok I see where your coming from now on the power issue now that you have explained it better. All you have had is an engine change so I doubt that the PCM has been modified with a power chip. There is a chance that some upgrade was done on that motor you now have. If it idles like it has a cam upgrade and now you have a comparison vehicle that has less power. You probably have a cam upgrade in your motor. To my knowledge, even though various years used the same engine, there isn't suppose to be any improvement in power in the newer stock engines. Hey, you lucked out....enjoy!
  • I have had the same problem for a while now. But now when i accelerate under load the engine stutters severely. The engine also stutters while in third gear at about 35mph.

    Still looking for answers myself.
  • Sounds like you have a bad TPS(throttle positioning sensor. Here is how you check it. KOEO key on engine off. Verify 5volt referance at sensor. Looking at the back of the 3 wire plug, this is what each wire is for. 5v TP signal PCM(-). Location is mounted on throttle body on the other side of you throttle linkage. As throttle linkage moves, it turns this potentiometer. Works similar to a dimmer switch. All this testing is done with the key on engine off.

    This should be checked with a digital graphing meter but a DVM can be used.
    If you have your 5v referance, and ground, then check the middle wire for voltage while the throttle position is in idle position engine off. The voltage should be between .7volts to 1.1volts. While still conected move the throttle by hand smoothly. You should read a smooth increase in voltage at the middle wire (tp signal) When you reach WOT wide open throttle the voltage should be about 4.5volts. (engine off, key on) Understand that there is an allowable differance in referance voltage and ground of .2-.3 volts depending on the equipment being used. So if your referance voltage is 5.2 volts or 4.8 volts, thats still ok.

    While in the idle position if your reading higher voltage than 1.1v, then your PCM thinks your demanding additional throttle. Some TPS are adjustable with slotted hold down screws, but most likely your tps is defective. Good luck, get back to me and repost.
  • Hey All! I have a little issue with :confuse: my idle. Here's whats happening; the engine starts just fine when cold, the idle is at around 1050 rpm's then after about 20 seconds or so it drops to around 750 r's this is normal. Now that the engine is warmed up, like after the ride to work (20 miles or so) shut it off and everything is fine until break time (2 hrs. later) start the engine and it returns to high idle and then about 2 seconds later the idle drops to about 100 rpm's (barely running!) but doesn't actually stall, this usually lasts about 2 to 3 seconds before correcting itself and returning to normal idle speed. This has been happening since around 90'000 mi. Truck now has 97000 on it. I'd appreciate any insight anyone has to offer on this annoying little "issue." Thank You.
  • Sounds like a bad IAC valve [idle air control valve]and or build up of carbon in the throttle body intake. If there are no trouble codes, this is what I would check first.
  • i have a 94 4wd 5-spd 4.0. i just replaced the spark plugs and wires and i saw a good jump in gas mileage. i was getting 15 mpg city before and now i am getting 18.5 city. not too shabby for a older 4wd.
  • I have a 95 4litre ranger and my oil has smelled like gas the last couple oil changes, its not starting hard so its not flooding itself just noticed the smell in the oil, anyone know how to troubleshoot this proble?
  • hi i have a 94 ford ranger splash that is overheating only when i stop and idle for awhile.it doesn't completely overheat the temp gauge goes way up.i have a feeling it is the water pump.anyone know a way to test it without changing it? :confuse:
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    If it is indeed the water pump you will probably notice a leak at the base of the fan and/or some noise coming from that area. Sounds more like you have a blockage somewhere or a radiator that needs replacing. Kind of hard to tell without looking.
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