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2007 Toyota Camry Problems and Repairs

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Comments

  • run144erun144e Posts: 1
    Hi, does any one know how to remove the factory radio from a 2007 Toyota Camry??

    Thanks
  • alex24alex24 Posts: 54
    MY CAMRY HAD THE STEERING STICKING PROBLEM, what solved the problem with out putting a new rack and pinion, is go to auto parts store and buy a bottle of Lucus steering reconditioner, drain most of your power steering fluid and fill it with Lucus, lift your front wheels off the ground , start it and keep turning the steering all the way left and right to work in the Lucus fluid, drive your car a few days and up your front wheels again and turn left and right alot to work in the Lucus, and this should do the trick and no more sticking, This work great on my 93 camry, no more steering sticking problems, this was advice I took from Summit Racing Tech.
  • vizyovizyo Posts: 35
    I noticed my 2007 camry burns so much oil. I have 11000 km on it. I did only 4000km after I changed the oil last time. The oil was at "full" level at the beginning but now it is on the middle level between "low" and "full". Even my old corolla, which currently has 320K, does not burn this much oil. Is this normal with a new car? Does anyone else have the same problem?
  • dwb2dwb2 Posts: 24
    According to toyota it is not uncommon for an engine to use a quart between 1,000 and 1,500 miles. This also depends on the type of oil you use. I use castrol in mine and have no problems. Just my 2 cents worth.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    In my experience, the late model Camry engines are unusually demanding about oil viscosity. The manufacturer is required by US fuel efficiency regulations to specify very light oil; typically 5w-30. However, we have found that this viscosity sometimes leads to exhaust smoke at start-up, and also is consumed more rapidly than the 20w-50 which Toyotas used to prefer, before the government overrode the use of that oil.

    At any rate, 1/2 quart consumed in 4000km is not at all uncommon, and should not be a cause for concern. You may well find that the car uses less oil after it has gone over 20,000km; when it will definitely be fully broken in.

    Joel
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    If their engines can't run properly on the 5W30 than they must be poor engines. 20W50 to me is put in a very high mileage car to keep from having it burn oil all the time. I have a 7 year old 38' motorhome that weighs 22000lbs and has the GM 8.1 engine (496cu.in.) and it uses 5W30 too. I have no problem with it using oil and it is always running around 3K with redline at 5400. Tells me the Camry is a poor engine. :shades:
    Maybe the 20w50 was why they had the engine sludge problem.
  • I not alone.

    I have one too, a 93 V6 Camry that uses more oil than past vehicles Ive owned. I'm not sure what viscosity I have, but I try to get a higher viscosity in the summer I' ve owned this car for a year and notice on start it sometimes burns oil. Its usually after it has ran for a minute.

    I was pouring the oil in a pint size jar then putting it in the engine, this way I can monitor amount I use. Another thing is my wife drives this car and isn't sure how to operate the overdrive switch on the shifter I dont even try to explain the tach. It easy to cruise around town at 2000-23000. With the switch out it revs higher and probably contributes somewhat to the high usage.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,667
    I have had Toyotas since 1984 and I have never seen them recommend "20W50". The Camry engine in the 2009 back to 2003 is the same - no problems, not a "poor" engine, if you do a search about this engine.

    They now recommend 5-20 or 0-20 (synthetic). My '07 is fine.

    As far as the sludge "problem" - A must read about the so-called sludge problem is in "Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions - READ ONLY" message #4829 by Hylyner.
  • wilbonwilbon Posts: 5
    I have no problem with my Camry using oil; but the gas mileage is, and always has been terrible. The best I can get is 19.5 mpg, and about 26 mpg on trip!
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Agree totally. I have had 3 Camry 4-cylinders, 2 current and 1 former.

    I've never heard of ANY manufacturer recommending 20W-50 in the last 30 years -- maybe some exotic like Ferrari? 10W-40 used to be fairly common in the late 70s into the 80s.
  • vizyovizyo Posts: 35
    I took my camry to the service this morning. They changed the oil and told me that I have to take the car to the service for every 1000km for the oil level to be measured. According to Toyota's instructions, if the car consumes 1Liter/1500km they consider it normal and they do not do anything. They also showed me the instructions list from Toyota for this inspection. They recommend oil change for every 8000km. If any Toyota consumes 1 Liter oil for every 1500 km, after 6000km there will be no oil left in the engine !!! And they consider this normal !!!

    I also had the back noise checked. I had posted it here before. My camry makes "Thuck" noise when the speed reaches to 15km/hr and 30km/hr. Some owners here said that it was ABS self-checking noise. Today, the technician in the service said the same thing. No one expects to hear such a noise from a new car. This noise is there since the first day I bought my car. I wanted to be convinced and asked them to show it to me on another camry. They did and another 2009 Camry did exactly the same noise.

    I still have rattles on the dashboard. I have not got it fixed yet.
  • Had the Camry in 6 times for Warped Rotors within 53k miles! 1st time: turned rear rotors, 2nd time replaced rear rotors, 3rd time, turned front rotors, 4th time turned all four rotors, 5th time same thing! Today was 6th time and of course now they want to charge an arm and a leg and it has been less than 12k miles since the last problem! Each time they said "it must be your driving or this is the 1st I've heard and I don't know why you are having this problem". Yeah well, it is obvious I am not the first and sure not to be the last!
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    If you can answer the following questions, I might be able to help you with this problem:

    1> What are the symptoms that lead you to take the car in to have the rotors checked? Do these symptoms go away completely each time they service the rotors?

    2> How much out of true do the rotors measure when the dealer says they need to be turned or replaced? (The dealer should have those measurements in their files)

    3> Have the brake pads ever been changed on this car? If so, was a different type of replacement pad used; or was it the standard Toyota part?

    There is another possible cause for this problem, besides it coming from the rotors themselves: If the spindles on which the rotors mount are bent, they will cause the rotors to wear unevenly. Have the spindles checked for trueness.

    Thanks, Joel
  • Warped rotors, I think it is common for this problem to happen on certain Toyota's

    My two cents. I agree with last post about quality of pads Also about the rotors, you bought new ones for the back but never for the front. Then you turned the new rotors in the back along with the front rotors again.

    I say this because a rotor that overheats will warp. Each time you turn your rotors to remove warpage it might be contributing to the problem by making it thinner causing it to overheat.

    Now the front rotors have been turned three times The front rotors get hotter since the weight of the car shifts forward when you hit the brakes. The front rotors are probably too thin now getting hot and warped.

    Also you could buy new front rotors and install them yourself, or have the local neighborhood Johnny change them out. Parts would be about $100 dollars for pads and new rotors plus one hour labor for a young mechanic with some basic tools and a good floor jack.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    I think a lot of this problem would simply go away if the e-throttle were disabled anytime the brake pedal is even just ever so lightly depressed.
  • My Q 1990 always go to fast idle on a closed throttle when I'm stopping. When I'm almost stopped it then idles down to 650RPM's. I believed I changed the brakes a couple times in the last 5 years I owned it.

    My 87 Corolla 4 banger will begin to shut off at 350 idle then will hold steady at 500 RPMs when I decelerate. I dont think I changed the brakes since I bought it back in 2001.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Good Morning 210delray:
    I just noticed that I did not respond to your posting! ----- When it comes time to replace my 2007 XLE Carmy, (at 95,000 miles), I will be looking at another V6 Camry or a Chevrolet Impala. The Malibu is a nice vehicle, but I am on the road for extended periods of time, and I like a bigger vehicle.

    Before I purchased the Camry, I look at the 2007 Chevrolet Impala. I wanted an Impala LT with the 3.5 FlexFuel engine, the luxury edition pkg, a power sunroof and body side molding. I could not find any vehicles in stock in New Jersey that had this package! ----- I could order this vehicle if I wanted to, but it was not brought in as a "stock vehicle" by dealers! If I moved up the Impala line, I could have gotten the accessories, but I would not get the 3.5 FlexFuel engine, and I wanted that engine!

    On the otherside of the issue, I have a GREAT Toyota Dealer. They treat me VERY well as a customer. The Chevrolet Dealers in my area, (Nothern N.J.), sometimes leave a lot to be desired in terms of public relations. (That issue will enter into the mix when I start to look for a replacement vehicle). I would love to own an American vehicle, but I want to see and drive the vehicle that I am purchasing. I do not want to order it and wait 8 to 10 weeks for delivery. Question: ------ What happens if I do not like the way the vehicle operates once it arrives at the dealership? ----- Do I need to go to court to get out of the purchase contract? ----- I want to go to a dealer that stocks vehicles, walk the new car lot and make a selction!

    Best regards. ------ Dwayne :shades: ;) :)
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    A reasonable dealer should be able to get you what you want. They should have a car you like, maybe not with exactly on it what you want but one you can drive and sit in, check out or whatever you need to do. It may not be your color, have a sunroof or body side moldings on it but have the engine etc. you are looking for. Unless it is late in the model year they should be able to do a dealer trade to get exactly what you want by sitting down with you at their computer and punching in what you want. I did this on my HHR that I traded my Colorado that was almost 5 years old with NO problems for. I narrowed it down to 3 colors I liked and he was able to find everything else I wanted on it. The tuff thing was getting one with the side air bags as that was an option and a lot of dealers didn't carry it that way. But he came through.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    It is not at all unusual on older cars for the engine to surge slightly, but definitely noticeable, as you apply the VACUUM assisted power brakes. The "use" of the vacuum for braking results in a surge of airflow into the intake manifold.

    On newer cars this surge of manifold intake airflow is anticipated by the engine/transaxle controlling ECU and compensated for as it happens.

    An extended surge as you seemingly describe is a bit unusual IMMHO so you may have a vacuum leak in the brake power boost system.
  • If a new booster fixes it I'll save gas and brakes.

    I'll start to check booster and read into the manual , I always thought it was Infiniti design, runs great , but I know Im using more brake to stop than required.

    I developed a bad habit of throwing it in neutral
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Good Morning Vizyo:
    I am very interested in your posting about "oil consumption"! I own a 2007 V6 XLE Camry with 32,000 miles. This vehicle is serviced by the selling dealer every 2,500 miles, (oil & filter). (I know that the recommended service is at 5,000 miles, but I made a choice to cut that service interval in half)!
    My vehicle does not use any oil between oil and filter changes, and I do mostly high speed driving, (65 mph). Since the selling dealer does all of my service, I do not know what oil is being used in the vehicle. The dealer does recommend a "oil additive" which I do use, (BG / MOA)! The engine is VERY quiet both at idle and at start-up even in cold weather.
    Since I live in Northern New Jersey, I make it a point to warm-up the engine on cold winter mornings prior to traveling. (YES, I know that it is not recommended, but in life you need to make your own decisions!) I simply like a warm vehicle, and most of the time there is frost on the windows that needs to be removed, so I kill to birds with on stone!

    QUESTIONS:
    Could this condition be connected to a piston ring issue. Some vehicles accumulate carbon around the piston rings, and this locks the rings in the grooves of the piston. Because of this condition, the rings cannot follow the sides of the cylinder walls and the engine uses oil!
    What brand of fuel are you using?
    How often do you change your oil? (Oil & Filters are cheap, ---- engines are expensive!)

    NOTE:
    There are fuel additives on the market that are safe for the oxygen sensor to help to correct this issue. ("BG" is one of the companies that makes a fuel additive. There are many others on the market. Ask your toyota dealer.)

    FUEL CONSUMPTION:
    My driving is mostly highway. I average 30mpg on the highway without using the cruise control. At times I have had this figure up to 34mpg! This has been done on both "name brand" and "off brand fuel"!

    Write back when you have the opportunity. ----- Best regards! ----- Dwayne :shades:
  • vizyovizyo Posts: 35
    I was not told anything specific. They just told me to bring the car in at every 1000km, they will check the oil level and record it. They will repeat this 5 times. If the oil consumption is excessive, they will report it to Toyota. Then Toyota will give instructions to the service. What I learned from Toyota service is that everything is normal to them. They just find a way around it all the time. According to Toyota, burning 1 liter oil for every 1500km is normal. I first thought that it was a joke !! If this is the case, after driving 4000km, there will be no oil remaining in the engine. And this is still normal !!

    I never heard that a new car burns so much oil. There is also black smut on the exhaust that we usually see on very old cars. ABS system also makes very
    loud "thuck" noise twice at certain speeds. They said it was normal too !!

    I had too many other problems with this car since the first day I bought it. It has been a huge disappointment.

    I have now 12,000km on my camry. I do not know if Toyota service uses any additive in the oil. I use highest grade fuel (supreme) all the time. I change the oil at every 4000km.

    I do average 28mpg on highway driving. In the city it goes down to 18~19mpg, which is far from what Toyota advertises. All these numbers are with very decent driving.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Good Morning Vizyo:
    The defective PCV valve can cause a vehicle to burn excessive oil!

    I average between 22 & 24 mpg in city driving with my XLE Camry, (I drive in a small town in New Jersey.) On the highway, I get 30mpg without any trouble.

    Are you using the correct weight of oil for this engine?

    Have the dealer perform a compression test on this engine. If the engine is burning this amount of oil, the spark plugs and the test will tell the story!

    How is the "power" in this engine? My V6 XLE will "snap your neck" if you accelerate hard when entering a highway!

    When coasting down a long hill on the highway and then accelerating do you see a cloud of smoke coming from the exhaust? ------ If this is the case, the oil is entering the combustion chamber through the valve guides.

    Write back when you have the opportunity. ------ Dwayne :shades:
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    before taking it in I'd check it myself and then drain a little more out just to get the job done.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,667
    They have a tamper proof seal.
  • sunilvsunilv Posts: 26
    I have done all the TSB released for transmission issues. I have done the latest TSB and it is better now than ever before. But the problem for me I feel a jerk in 1st and 2nd shifts. I asked the Dealer to test it and they just reset the Computer memory and asked me to drive about 50 miles with stop and go in slow traffic roads. I thought when I did the TSB it will reset the memory. Will it?
    Now even after 150 miles my car jerks in 1st and 2nd shifts. My car is a 07 Camry 4 Cyli Auto Trans bought in 2006 Apr.

    Is there any problem with my torque conertor or transmission? Please help me anyone, bcos I want to ditch this car if it is going to be fixed after my warranty expires.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Hi mcdawqq:
    QUESTION:
    Is the "tamper proof seal" on the oil stick, or on the crankcase plug? If it is on the "oil stick," how can the person check the oil on a long road trip?

    Best regards. ------------ Dwayne :shades: :confuse: ;) :)
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Hi vizyo:
    Since I have the same vehicle, I am very interested in your excessive oil consumption problem. Please keep us informed as the process unfolds!
    Best regards. ----- Dwayne :shades: :confuse: ;) :)
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,667
    I don't know for sure, I would think both, because if I wanted to falsify the oil level, I could take oil out of the dipstick hole with one of those pump things.
  • vizyovizyo Posts: 35
    Hello Dwayne,
    I am now trying to do the first 1000km after the last oil change. I am expecting to take it to the service sometime next week. I have been precisely measuring the level myself as well. I really want to hear from other owners if they have the same problem.
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