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2007 Toyota Camry Problems and Repairs



  • dreasdaddreasdad Posts: 276
    Because the Japan built camry is brought over on a ship the front of the car has a place that you can screw in a hook to secure the cars for shipping- that hook is left in the car when it reaches the port. The parts you are seeing are the back tied downs.They are not built for towing but for securing the car in transit.
  • palpakpalpak Posts: 21
    There is a label on the driver side door opening. You can find the mfg date and location on the label.
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    Those are there for shipping tie down points and/or
    for hookups to move the car down the assembly line....
  • eroc69eroc69 Posts: 56
    Thanks for posting those, the last is my hometown paper..
    I have an 07 LX-V6. I dont really know if I have the tranny problem that are so plaguing people. It does hesitate sometimes on acceleration BUT with so much available power I sometimes dont fully accelerate and only depress the pedal somewhat to get get a moderate acceleration. That might be why, when I gun it, it takes off fine.
    BTW- Iam about as anal as a customer can get and I find problems that no one hears or finds.
    MY biggest complaints are the location of the gas-brake pedals being off-set too much to the left causing my right leg to be uncomfortable. Iam only 6 ft. tall. the other MAJOR annoyance is the center stack plastic around the HVAC controls CONSTANTLY tick and squeak. Even if Iam not moving. My 97 Pontiac Grand Prix did that.
    Does anyone know a remedy for those squeaks around the HVAC plastic???
    There is a way to get 'behind' that plastic by opening the c.d. storage door and maybe adding tape or something right??
    Please help, my wife will kill me if she thinks I ahte this car but its not TYPICAL toyota quality.
  • What do you mean LX-V6? Camry doesn't make that model....I didn't read bacl many posts,so......

    The gas pedal on My LE I-4 5sp. AT is where it should be, very close to the side of the firewall and console that goes around the transmission/engine. My right leg rests along the console most of the time and driving is rather effortless.

    Just my opinion...
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Hi Everyone:
    Two weeks ago I took delivery of a 2007 Toyota XLE V6 Camry. I knew that there were some issue with this vehicle, but "comfort" was the primary issue, and since I do alot of highway driving, the vehicle met all my needs. Prior to making the purchase, I contacted Toyota, and I asked about the "transmission issue". I was told that if I purchased a vehicle with a building date of 6/06 or later, there should not be an issue with the transmission. The building date on my vehicle is 11/06. At the present time, I have 1,700 miles on the vehicle. (YES, I drive alot!) I have NOT experienced any of the problems that I have read about on this board! Because I do an extensive amount of driving, I purchased a 6 year / 100,000 mile Toyota extended warranty "0" deductible! I also purchased a prepaid Toyota Maintenance plan for all the major service intervals (every 15,000 miles), and the oil and filter changes / tire rotation (every 5,000 miles) for four years or 55,000 miles. I recognize that Toyota engines have a "sludge potential", so I will be changing the engine oil and filter every 2,500 miles on my own, while the dealership will be doing it under the service plan every 5,000 miles. I will be giving my local gas station a Toyota oil filter when they perform this service at 2,500 miles, so there shouldn't be an issue with the quality of the filter when the dealership changes the oil at 5,000 mile intervals. The vehicle is a pleasure to drive, and I have been getting 28 mpg on the highway using 87 octane fuel. I traded in a 2003 4 cyliner Accord for this vehicle. The one advantage the Toyota has over the Accord is that after I drive for two hours, I can get out of this vehicle without back problems! The 2003 Accord had a VERY bad blind spot on the driver's ourside mirror. The Camry does not have this blind spot. The pick up from a dead stop when entering a highway is "awesome"! The shift pattern is very smooth and positive. I really love this vehicle, and I would make this purchase again! ----- Best regards. --------- Dwayne ;) :shades: :)
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    The sludge problem ended with the 2001 4-cylinder Camrys and 2002 V6 models. From what I've read (and what I experienced with my '97 Camry) is that most people didn't get sludge.

    With the amount of driving you do, it's totally unnecessary to change the oil at 2500 miles. You'd be doing it every 3 weeks or so at your current rate!
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    I just want to make clear that my Camry v-6 SE has a build date of 7-06 and has many of the problems that are discussed on this forum including the rpm flare.
    I hope your car continues to do well? I also agree that you don't need to change the oil that often.
    Blessing to you
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,732
    >Prior to making the purchase, I contacted Toyota, and I asked about the "transmission issue". I was told that if I purchased a vehicle with a building date of 6/06 or later, there should not be an issue with the transmission.

    And you believed them?

    If you drive at 3400 miles per month at this rate, you don't need oil changes at 5000 miles. To attain that mileage you'd have to be doing lots of long motor runtime trips; that burns out the contaminants that collect in the oil from short trips. Rather than change so often, except when the car may get lots of short trips with no long drives to burn away the contaminants and condensates, would be to use synthetic oil. That would be money better spent, but that's my opinion.

    It's interesting about the Accord seats, because that was my feeling when I test drove in 2003. I felt they were minimal design that most youthful buyers would never notice for one reason or another, but my older back would notice. That A-pillar was another design I didn't like. Good luck with your new Camry, Dwayne.

    This message has been approved.

  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    About the oil changes, he still should do it every 5000 miles to avoid any warranty issues later on, plus he's paid for them in advance anyway. Toyota's interval is 5K miles or 6 months, whichever comes first.

    And with such frequent changes, synthetic oil would be a waste of money, IMO.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,732
    Oh, Toyota has lowered their mileage after the engine oil problems. I was thinking it was 7500 for severe. Maybe that's Honda.

    I'd certainly document for maximum warranty, you're right.

    But it sounds like he's driving some long trips as a retired person and that means it's less than extreme service. IIRC he's a person who takes great care of his cars and his tradeins are probably worth more than when new! I'm surprised the mechanics don't tell him when he's ready to trade let them know because they'll buy his car from him because of the great care...

    This message has been approved.

  • kdhspyderkdhspyder Posts: 7,160
    Here's an interesting thought I had this morning on the way to work. There was a discussion here or on another thread about the 'Maint Reqd' light on all the new Toyota's.

    Obviously it's a helpful reminder to the drivers that now it's time. Innocent on the face of it..

    However now that most new 'electronic' vehicles have a not-so-well-know 'black box' that captures all or much of the electronic data on the vehicle this may also be a potential source of verification by Toyota whether and when the scheduled maintenance was done.

    The indicator comes on 500 mi before the scheduled miles and then stays on until the service is done and it's reset. It avoids the 'Yep I've done the maintenance right on schedule.'..'Oh? Why then does the computer show that you skipped the 10K and 15K intervals and didn't change until 20K?'

    The 'black box' tells all.
  • I'm wondering if the reset has to be done by a connection to the onboard computer and if so, whether third-party companies like Jiffy-Lube etc have access to the correct codes to reset the indicator.
  • virusvirus Posts: 21
    Changing your oil every 5k on dino oil is acceptable, but changing it at the 5k mark with synthetic is a complete waste of time. Especially considering the new Camry takes 6.4 quarts of oil. It will only void your warranty if the oil is responsible for the problem. I've done 10-20k oil changes for the last 13-14 years and have never had a problem. All engines were still running as good as new even with 250k on them. I normally change the filter at the 5k-7k mark.
  • kdhspyderkdhspyder Posts: 7,160
    It's always done electro/mechanically by using the key and the odometer.

    Actually in all Toyota's now there are three trip meters; trip A ( visible ), trip B ( visible ) and the distance between maintenances ( not visible ).
  • Ford SUVs have had known rollover problems since the mid 80's. I had a friend who has involved in litigation over an accident in which his Bronco II(Fords small suv prior to Explorer) rolled over with little cause. He said the number of similar cases against Ford was massive, and their circumstances tragic.
    The Explorer just carried those problems forward. Somehow Ford slimed their way out of the lawsuit by blaming Firestone. But it was a design flaw without question. I mean maybe the tires did blowout more than expected, but in no way shape or form should a SUV flip if the tire blows out.
  • aamixyaamixy Posts: 69
    Good to hear your V6 is no problem. Could you elaborate the blind spot between the Camry and the Accord? I thought every car has blind spot. Thanks!
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Well, sorry, but at 70-80 MPH a front tire blowout makes it really hard to maintain control and not roll, most especially with an SUV.

    The tire blowouts were the result of the under-inflation recommended by Ford to lower the center of gravity of the explorer and thereby reduce its propensity for rollover.

    What they overlooked, or hid, was the fact that an under-inflated tire carrying a heavy load, a load close to its rated load capacity, FLEXES a lot more than one properly inflated. After an hour running at 70-80 MPH that flexing results in a LOT of extraordinary heat buildup within the tread and that causes the tire to BLOW.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    the blind spot in any car tends to be minimized IF one knows how to adjust the mirrors properly (which most people don't learn).

    my take away from a posting on edmunds years ago:
    lean your head against the driver's door glass and adjust the driver's-side mirror so you just loose sight of the vehicle body.

    lean head over shifter and adjust the passenger-side mirror so again, you just loose sight of the vehicle body.

    now the rear-view and side-view mirrors present a complimentary view. the blind spot on either side of the vehicle should be minimal with this setup.

    it will take someone perhaps a few days to get used to the arrangement, but once done, one will wonder how they ever drove with their previous setup. :shades:
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