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2007 Toyota Camry Problems and Repairs

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  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited July 2010
    Not sure we have the whole story here.

    If the rotors were warped, and it sounds that way from the symptoms you describe, then replacing the brake pads doesn't address the warped rotors. So I'm guessing that the labor charge, includes them cutting the rotors.

    18K miles is not many miles to have to be replacing brakes. When you say 60 miles down steep hills, does that mean in you live in a very hilly area? That would explain the high pad usage.

    What's the reference to 9 rotor repairs?
  • 1. Picked up car and service report says: FOUND THE FRONT BRAKE ROTORS WERE WARPED. ALSO FOUND THE FRONT AND REAR BRAKE PADS WERE SUBJECT TO AN UPDATED BRAKE PAD TO REPAIR A BRAKE VIBRATION. REPLACED THE FRONT AND REAR BRAKE PADS. RESURFACED ALL 4 ROTORS. PAD KIT, DISC BRAK $132.37, PAD KIT DISK BRA $57.40,
    TOTAL PARTS $189.77, TOTAL LABOR & PARTS $543.16

    2. I do not live in a hilly area and seldom drive on the freeway (maybe 4 trips in 3 years where there were 1 or 2 "hills" per trip) i.e., to L.A. over Canejo Grade.

    3. Reference to 9 rotor repairs is on this message board posted by "hughesbst"
    Post #4737
  • jlt08jlt08 Posts: 1
    This just happened to me. The A/C Compressor just locked up on my 2007 Toyota Camry LE V6. I was told by the mechanic that the bolt that hold the A/C compressor in place broke into pieces. I bought the car brand new from a dealership 3 years and 9 months ago. I'm at 66,500 miles. This is a very expensive repair. Cost is $2,100 just for the part. Have you heard of this happening to anyone else? What course of action did you take?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited July 2010
    You need to investigate a little more to exactly what is wrong, and why it costs 2100 to repair. There are a couple different ways I could interpret what you wrote.

    1.) It might be that the compressor bearing froze, and the compressor is bad. Ohh by the way, a mounting bolt broke. Repair job is to buy a new compressor and mount it with a new bolt, recharge the system w/freon. If that is your scenario, 2100 seems high.

    2.) It might be that the compressor disintegrated internally, sending metal shavings thru out the AC system. Ohh by the way, a mounting bolt broke. They have to take the complete AC system apart and purge out all the lines, replace some additional parts in addition to the compressor that got damaged or clogged by the filings, refill the system and check for leaks. Could be in the range of 2100.

    3.) The compressor bearing went bad, and somehow the serpentine belt put soo much pressure on the compressor it broke the mounting bolt and mounting. The bulk of the charges are trying to figure out how to remount a new compressor on the engine.

    I'd suggest asking a lot more questions to understand what they are suggesting the repair will consist of. What parts are the planning to replace and why, what labor are they planning to do and why. Knowing that would arm you with the ability to go to another repair shop and have them look at it and give you an estimate. A second repair shop may think that their proposed repair is the same, but their parts costs and labor costs are different. Or, they may suggest a different set of tasks and parts replacements need to be done, and those come up to a different price.

    Compressor bearings can go bad in any make vehicle. Call an autoparts chain (Pep Boys, Autozone, etc) to get an idea how much aftermarket parts are, as a reference point. I would expect dealer OEM parts to cost more, but sometimes you might find the price differential way out of whack. I haven't had to replace a compressor in a number of years, so I don't have current price reference point.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    edited July 2010
    The original equipment compressor brand and part (Nippondenso # 4710613) for your car year and model is available for $571.79 plus shipping from www.rockauto.com
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Nice website reference...thanks.

    But for the original poster, just to make sure comparing apples to apples, that is a remanufactured compressor, as compared to what (most likely) is a new compressor from Toyota (but you should get clarity and check).
  • vizyovizyo Posts: 35
    I had exactly the same problem. Toyota issued a TSB for this (I do not recall the #). I bought my 07 camry LE 4cycl brand new and suffered with it for three years (major transmission problems, it was replaced but it did not fix the problems, vibrations at constant speed on highway, vibrations when I braked, burning oil (burning 1 liter for every 1000km), pulling left all the times, rattles on dashboard, poor painting (it was chipping and peeling off on the front and back bumpers). After having endless problems and countless time visits to the dealer I finally gave up and got rid of the car.

    Toyota does not inform their customers about the problems and TSBs. You have to diagnose it yourself and find out the TSB, then you take it to the dealer and try to convince them that you have the problem.

    GOOD LUCK !!
  • bcaobcao Posts: 1
    I've been having the exact problem with my Toyota Camry 2007 and its dealer told me to spend $300+ to replace pad and smooth rotor. Never had this problem with my other cars.
  • Hello house...

    I'm about to buy a used Toyota Camry 2007 SE (V6). I've been going through a lot of posts and comments about problems with the transmission, oil leakage etc... I just want to find out if all 2007 V6 SEs have this problem. If they do, I'll pass. But if not, is there a way to determine if the one i'm considering has this problem??? the VIN number is 4T1BK46K47U505038.

    One more thing, I paid for the CARFAX VIN report and up until now, there's no record of transmission problems, oil leakage, etc.

    The car was manufactured 04/17/2006.

    Please I need your advice so I can make a well informed decision.

    Thanx a mill in advance...
  • vizyovizyo Posts: 35
    If I were you I would stay away from 2007 to 2009 models. They have very major problems. I had 2007 Camry and had all kinds of major problems (transmission replaced but did not fix the problem, very bad vibrations on the highway over 40mph, pulling, burning oils, rattles, vibration with brakes .....). I took the car to the dealer countless times since the first day I bought it. After driving it for 3 years I said it was enough and sold it when it had only 14000k miles on it. If you really want to buy Camry, look for 2010 & 2011. They have fixed most of the problems on the recent models.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    If it was me, I'd stay away from all Toyota problems since it seems like they are now finally getting caught with their pants down for all the lies about the quality of their products. I don't think any model they have made in the past 10 years hasn't had at least one recall. Just has to make me wonder what else they are hiding and has all their problems really been solved. How can you trust a company like that who has lied through their teeth about nothing wrong with their products.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    And we have a 2007 that has been a fabulous vehicle.
  • notmybmwnotmybmw Posts: 101
    Has anyone done this?
    What kind of fluid did you use?
    Did you buy an "autobleeder" so it could be a one-person job? If so, where did you buy it and how much did it cost?

    Thanks for any and all tips/tricks/advice.

    Michael
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited August 2010
    Yes, I did a brake job a couple months ago. Replaced rear pads, flushed and bled all four brakes.

    I have a one man bleeder which I typically use to pull a vacuum at each wheel. To be honest, I don't remember where I got it or how much it costs. MIght have been a Harbor Freight store, or some autoparts store. I'd guess maybe 15 or 20 bucks.

    I use that to do the major flushing of the fluid, but revert back to a 2 person 'pump and hold it' as the final bleed. I had one of my daughters just pump the brakes and hold it, then cracked the bleeder to be sure each caliper was bleed properly. Then move on and do the next wheel.

    Just be careful to never let the master cylinder run dry, or you'll probably need to take it to a dealership to have the anti-lock brake system energized and purged. I just use a quart of the standard autoparts store Prestone Dot 3 brake fluid (if I recall correctly). Look it up in the owners manual, it will tell you the Dot standard.

    I posted earlier the specifics, but I think it cost me something like $40 bucks for a set of pads and fluid.

    It's really a pretty simple replacement on the Toyota, compared to some other vehicle's I've owned before.
  • :lemon: Would you buy an american car? Don't even think about Toyota after all the lies and deceit they have used against consumers. We have (I am sorry to say) a 2007 v6 and we almost blew engine due to the oil leak problem they had (but first denied). At least with an american car you know what you.re getting-JUNK.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Prestone Dot 3 brake fluid

    Dot 5 is now available and is backward compatible.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    You already own the junk, buy an american car and step up, even most mags and Consumers REports are rating them better than Toilet, I mean toyota. :blush:
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Hi
    I own a 2007 V6 XLE Camry with 58,000+ miles. (It is my second vehicle.) ---- It has only be serviced by the selling dealer since new. ----- It has been trouble free. -- It gets 30+ mpg on long highway trips! ----- I have had NO transmission issues. --- I did have the flexible oil line replaced under the extended Toyota warranty. The hose did not break. ----- Some people are having issues with these vehicles by my XLE has been a great vehicle.

    Best regards!
    Dwayne :shades: :confuse: ;) :)
  • beantownbeantown Posts: 228
    edited August 2010
    2007 4 cylinder CE Camry - automatic tranny - 29,000 miles

    Check engine light went on first thing this morning out of the blue. Drove on it for a few miles, first gear fine, second gear was extremely sluggish. Car would get "stuck" at 2,000 rpms and approx 25 miles per hour in second.....would not accelerate (ironic for a camy) no matter if my foot was half way down the pedal or if I put it to the floor, for approximately 5-7 seconds. Then it would kick in and accelerate. Very odd.

    Took car to dealership this morning and they analyzed the code. Said it was a "knock sensor". They attempted to reset all codes, but it didn't work. They then said that, based on their experience, it was a mouse or something that started nesting in the engine and chewed up a wire or two. They'd have to remove the manifold to be sure and it would cost me about $500 because it wouldn't be covered under the powertrain warranty which obviously hasn't expired yet. They said that there was an outside shot that it was something car-related and not rodent-related, which could be covered, but really.....what are the chances of them ever admitting that. They're obviously going to say it was a mouse or something like that and I'd have no way to prove it wasn't.

    Does this sound legit both in terms of diagnosis and cost to repair? This is a car that gets driven every day, so I can't imagine anything really having time to hang out and nest in there.
  • barroncbarronc Posts: 44
    After reading your post I find it hard to believe a mouse would have crawled up into the engine compartment and chewed on a few wires. And as you mention the car gets driven daily so the chances a mouse would be on a hot engine is unlikely. This sounds more like a Toyota problem, in other words possibly a computer problem. I had the engine light come on when I owned a 2002 Nissan Maxima SE and it was computer related. The dealership fixed my car which was covered under it's warranty. I'd suggest trying another Toyota dealership and get a second opinion if I were you.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    There is only one wire that carries the signal from the knock sensor to the car's computer. This is the only wire that could have been affected by a rodent. It is NOT necessary to remove the intake manifold in order to test this wire. It can be checked by disconnecting the computer's wiring harness plug, along with the wiring harness plug to the knock sensor; and then using a meter to measure the resistance between that wire and ground; together with the resistance between that wire and the battery. If the knock sensor is totally inaccessible without removing the manifold because of its location; the test can be performed by just disconnecting the harness plug at the computer, locating the knock sensor wire in that plug (which is listed by its color in the service manual) and then testing the wire for either shorts or grounds while the knock sensor is still connected to the other end. This may or may not be the standard procedure recommended in the service manual for testing this problem; but it will work. However; it will require a technician who understands electronics; rather than a flunkie who only knows how to do what the manual says. If the dealership refuses to do this simple and inexpensive test; they are either trying to conceal their ignorance, or they are determined to rip you off. Try another dealership; or take the car to a competent auto electrical, fuel injection and computer specialist and pay them to test the wire. It should cost much, much less than $500. There is a significant chance that the problem is caused by an internal fault in the computer; rather than a chewed up wire. Remanufactured computers for older Toyotas can be purchased for less than $400 from places like www.rockauto.com. But they don't list computers for 2004 and newer Camrys. You could also order a used computer from a 4 cylinder 2007 Camry by phoning a wrecking yard that has a nationwide parts locating hotline. After a request is placed on the hotline; any yard in the US that subscribes to that hotline and has this part will contact your local yard and arrange to ship the computer to them. If you want to see how much you'd save by going this route; phone your local Toyota dealer's parts department and ask them the price for a computer for your car.
  • beantownbeantown Posts: 228
    Thanks for the responses. Just to clarify, they were able to run the test and confirm the bad wire for free. What they couldn't do for free is confirm WHY the wire went bad. In other words, they could access whatever they needed to access to run the test itself, but couldn't confirm why it went bad and supposedly can't actually replace the bad wire without removing the manifold first.

    I'm still weighing my options on this one. It's driveable for now, so I'm not forced to decide one way or the other.....and I need the car (don't feel like paying for a rental while dealership after dealership look at it). I just have a feeling that no matter which dealership I go to, they're gonna give me the same "not covered under warranty" angle.....even if it is 100% the car. I mean, really, unless I'm standing next to them when they open it all up, how else could I ever prove that something wasn't nesting in there? They can essentially say whatever they want.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Ask to be there when they take it apart. Call Toyota and open a case.
  • Has anyone had any problems with the water pump? Dealer has told me I need to have my water pump replaced, seems like I should not have this problem so soon.

    I also noticed that when I step on the gas the car makes rattling or knocking noise.... what could this be?
  • I have a 2007 LE and when I accelerate I do hear what I think may be valve clicking. When my air condition is running (and I live in the New Orleans area) I am hearing a strange clicking/swooshing noise. Conversely, turning the a/c off will eliminate this particular noise, but the acceleration clicking remains constant.
    I actually had a rat eat thru my firewall when the car had only 7K miles on it. I nearly traded the car in then. The recall happened after that point.....water under the bridge. Well, I now have 35K on it.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Well you'll need someone to look at it, and determine what the cause of the problem may be.

    For the engine clicking, what I normally do is to remove the accessory belt, and then start the engine briefly. If the clicking continues, then you know the problem is internal to the engine. If the clicking stops, then the problem is with one of the accessories driven by the accessory belt. I typically find problems external to the engine, as opposed to internal. With the engine off, and belt off, you can then turn the accessories by hand, and feel whether the bearings are good or not (looking for wobble, free and smooth, etc). Replace what is bad.

    For the air conditioner 'swooshing', I assume that is a noise you hear inside the passenger compartment. That may be low water levels in the radiator/heater, or low freon levels in the A/C system. Or, it could be a number of other things. It's much easier for someone to diagnose something when they hear the sound themselves, as opposed to your interpretation of a sound, relayed across written words to the internet.

    So get someone to look at it, and see what their diagnosis is.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    edited September 2010
    It would be helpful to know why the dealer said the water pump needs replacement. If it was because the bearings were loose; a replacement definitely would be necessary. But if the dealer said there are signs of "weeping" coolant around the pump drain hole; this possibly could continue at about the same level for a long time to come, without it getting severe enough to do anything about. It also depends on the quantity of coolant that is being lost: If the coolant level is dropping rapidly enough that it is necessary to add coolant once or more every month; this should be attended to. But if there is little or no indication that the coolant level is dropping significantly, then coolant stains near the water pump area are strictly a cosmetic issue.

    Many people confuse a sound that they think is valve noise with the pinging that is created by use of low octane fuel. The way to distinguish those two types of noise, which both sound similar; is to notice when and under what conditions the sound is loudest. Valve train clicking is usually loudest when the motor is idling; and does not become louder when stepping on the gas. It often can also be heard while the car is slowing down. Valve train clicking is often caused by not changing the oil often enough, or by using an unsuitable oil type, or by mixing or changing brands or types of oil. Contrary to popular myth; the additives in many oil types will react chemically with each other, which can lead to shortened engine life and possible engine damage if one brand and viscosity of oil is not used consistently.

    By contrast, pinging usually cannot be heard at all when the motor idles or is slowing down; and becomes louder as you press the accelerator pedal further. Pinging can be caused either by low fuel quality; or can also be caused by excessive engine temperature, or low engine oil level. Please be aware that some types of coolant leaks can cause the coolant level in the radiator to drop; while the level in the plastic reservoir bottle may look good. So it is ESSENTIAL to check the level directly in the radiator (by removing the radiator cap while the engine is cool) whenever the engine begins to run above the normal temperature, or pings. The radiator should be filled to the very top of the filler neck. When adding coolant, be sure to mix the pure coolant from the bottle with equal quantities of distilled water, before pouring it into the cooling system. Adding water to coolant is necessary in order for the coolant to transfer heat efficiently. Using 100% pure coolant will make the engine run hot.

    There is also a third type of similar noise, called piston slap, which is loudest when the motor has not warmed up to normal operating temperature, and often goes away or is greatly reduced after the motor warms up fully. Piston slap is loudest when driving at a steady speed or accelerating slightly. It usually cannot be heard when the car is slowing down. Piston slap in Toyotas is often heard when using very light viscosity energy conserving motor oil (typically 5W-20 or 5W-30). These oil grades were mandated by the US government, because they theoretically increase fuel economy (by less than 1 mile per gallon). But the legislators who pushed that law through were not aware of the fact that some engine designs (namely Mazda rotarys and Toyota) experience adverse wear and noise when using such lightweight oil. New car dealerships in the US who install anything but energy conserving oils are liable to be legally prosecuted; but this law does not apply to independent garages or people who change their own oil. The best oil for reducing piston slap is Mobil 1 full synthetic (but only in 0W-40 grade). 0W-40 is a European oil formula; which was developed for Porsche and Mercedes. Any store that sells Mobil 1 oil can order it in 0W-40, if they don't already carry that viscosity.
  • An excellent, informative post. Thank you, zaken1.
  • I haven't had any problems with my 2007 Camry's water pump. How many miles do you have on your car? I experienced a knocking from the engine (V-6) once but the dealer told me it's from a bad batch of gasoline (watered down). It never happened again after that. I use mid-grade 89 octane or once in a while high test 92 octance.
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