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2007 Toyota Camry Problems and Repairs

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Comments

  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Hi Canc:

    I own a 2007 XLE V6 Camry purchased new. ----- I have this vehicle service at the selling Toyota Dealer every 3,000 miles, (oil & filter changes.) ----- {I DO NOT BELIEVE IN EXTENDED OIL AND FILTER CHANGES!} ------ I also use an oil additive BG / MOA, ---- (sold by the Toyota dealer), in every oil and filter change. ----- Periodically I also use a BG fuel injector additive in the gas. ----- My Camry has 63,000+ miles, and I never use oil between oil and filter changes. ---- The vehicle is driven for hours at 65mph on a regular basis! ------ (There is the possibility that the piston rings on your engine are frozen on the piston due to a "carbon build up!" ------ This could be cleaned in a couple of ways. ---- If you run fuel injector cleaner under pressure in the fuel system to clean the injectors, this cleaner would also remove carbon from the combustion chamber. ----- You could also run the BG / MOA additive in the engine oil, and the BG / Fuel injector cleaner in the gasoline on a regular basis. ----- (These products are a little pricey, but they do the job.) ----- Frozen piston rings would pressurize the crankcase, and the PCV system would suck up the wet oil fumes causing a loss of engine oil! ------ A PCV problem would also cause your engine to use oil. ------

    Best regards. ---------- Dwayne :shades: ;) :)
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Have you considered how LITTLE that oil costs on a MPG basis..??
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    I change the oil in my '01 Porsche every spring regardless of it having not reached the 15,000 factory recommendation.
  • tony108tony108 Posts: 16
    Same situation here lucky seven. Our 2007 camry ce has around 95,000 miles and it currently burns around 1 qt every 5k miles. I usually top it of at around 3k to be safe. I just wonder if the oil that is going through the pcv valve to the intake manifold will harm the catalytic converter in the long run.

    P.S. I started using mobil 1/ castrol/ pennzoil synthetic oils 5w-20 when it was around 32k miles. I only use toyota oil filter.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    In addition to the catalytic converter, you should also be concerned about the Mass Air Flow Sensor, and the Oxygen Sensor! Run some BG fuel additive in the gasoline and BG / MOA in the oil. If you have frozen rings, this could free them. ---- You could also run some fuel injector detergent through the engine, ---- through the fuel rail. This will clean up the combustion chamber along with the injectors. ---- Best regards. --------------- Dwayne :shades: ;) :)
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 549
    Dwayne a caution on additives. The Toyota Corp. does not recommend the addition of any after market oil treatment for their auto engines. If you had a problem and the oil was found to be carrying a non recommended additive, then Toyota could possibly void the warranty. Check your owner's manual. Toyota Corp has the final say, not the dealer. Too many of these like products are sold to make a high profit for the dealer.
  • canccanc Posts: 715
    >I just wonder if the oil that is going through the pcv valve to the intake >manifold will harm the catalytic converter in the long run.

    I've been concerned about this as well. Very good point... could anyone comment on this?
  • canccanc Posts: 715
    Hi everyone,

    Thanks for all your comments and suggestions to my original post. I'm posting this information here so that it can possibly help you guys out there too. When I contacted the service manager at my dealership, they suggested running a compression test on the engine, opening it up to see if the rings were stuck and to notice if there were any abnormalities. They did a "dry" compression test, and all cylinders were at 150, give or take a few numbers (150, 152, 148, 150). Then they did a "wet" compression test, putting a bit of oil on top of each piston, and all cylinders registered an average of 180, which, I was told, was excellent. Then they checked the PCV valve, and they said there was a little bit of crud in there, but nothing noticeable, but they cleaned it anyway. He then confirmed that my car burns 750 ml (3/4 of a quart) for every 4300 kms (2671 miles). They topped it off, told me to keep an eye on it, and when I go back for my next oil change, they'll measure it again and send off the results to Toyota. They also fed me the line that "it's written in the owner's manual that burning a litre (a quart) of oil every 1500 kms (932) is considered "acceptable" according to Toyota, so I shouldn't expect an engine rebuild. I intend to appeal that as I sure don't consider that acceptable in my book, having owned 6 Toyotas already and never witnessed this.

    Last thing Dwayne: I know you swear by additives, judging from your previous posts, but my dealership mentioned that they're more often than not snake oil, and they refused to sell me any. They also said that if I put some in my engine, that I can consider my warranty void. Just FYI.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    edited March 2011
    Toyota's not recommending any additives does not mean that all additives on the market are harmful. It simply means that there are enough bad ones out there (STP and Slick 50 being the most blatant examples) that the company is unwilling to risk their fortunes or reputation on the wisdom or ignorance of the average owner.

    Those of us who are knowledgable and experienced enough to be familiar with specific additives which have proved beneficial over the long run need not worry about Toyota covering their corporate behind with a legal caveat. The likelihood of a substantial mechanical failure in a properly maintained Toyota motor is small enough that the benefits of certain specific additives in increasing engine life outweigh the potential risk of punishment by Toyota; if a freak problem were to arise with the engine. In addition; the Toyota corporation is not unresponsive to appeals based on reason. If it can be demonstrated to them in an appeal that the particular additive which you (or your dealer) uses is not harmful, and is actually beneficial; I highly doubt that they will play the power game and go Nazi on you.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    It makes no functional difference whether the consumed oil goes through the PCV valve into the intake manifold, or through the breather hose into the air filter housing, or goes past the valve stem seals and through the valve guides into the combustion chamber, or goes up past the oil rings and compression rings into the combustion chamber. There is enough heat and turbulence in the catalytic converter that it can EASILY handle a quart of oil passing through it in 4,000 miles or so. My 1990 Geo Metro has consumed oil at a quart in 4,000 miles for the entire 19 years and 244,000 miles I've driven it (and it had 58,000 miles on it when I bought it). The original converter is still on the car, and works just fine. I now pass emission tests with less pollution than when I first bought the car. At the rate that most people drive (12,000 miles per year) 32 ounces of oil in 3 months is 11 ounces per month. That works out to 3 ounces of oil consumed per week. And that is really a tiny amount; compared to all the other petroleum based crud that goes through the converter.
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 549
    I stated that Toyota could possibly void the warranty. Why take a chance. A well engineered engine should not need any additional oil additives, especially with the high quality of oils today. It took Toyota a long, long time to own up to the oil sludge issue. They are not the most cooperative company in the world.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Kindly be advised that my Toyota Dealer sells and recommends BG products both for the oil and fuel. ------ That is the reason why I use them! ----- It is not my idea!---- As you probably know, the Toyota 3.0 V6 engine was a "known sludge producer." ---- The reason for this issue was extended oil and filter changes, and probably a design problem with the engine. ----- I have used these products since the 2007 V6 XLE Camry was new, and I have never had to add oil between oil and filter changes! ---- Maybe I am just lucky, or maybe there is something to these products. ----- Do a search on the net about BG Products, and make your own decision! ---- The final choice is yours! ----- I do not work for the company! ----- Best regards. ----- Dwayne :shades: ;)
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 549
    You don't drive far enough between oil changes to know if a car uses oil or not. The oil and the additives that you add are just getting nicely circulated at 2500 miles.
  • canccanc Posts: 715
    Thanks for your reply; it's a relief. One less thing to worry about!
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Good Morning bdyment:

    While everyone is entitled to their opinion, I would have to disagree with you about your reasoning on this oil burning issue. ------ If the cause of the oil burning is "frozen piston rings," (because of a carbon build up in the piston grooves), the engine will burn oil at 1,000 or 5,000 miles after the oil & filter change, since the cause of the oil burning IS NOT a break down of the oil, but rather the inability of the rings to follow the cylinder walls as the piston travels from TDC to BDC, thus allowing "blow by" to enter the crankcase. ---- The rings are locked in the piston grooves because of the carbon formed by the burning of the gasoline. ----- Using a top tier gasoline, and changing the brand of gasoline on a regular basis can work to eliminate these problems, because each brand of fuel uses different detergents in their fuel, which tend to break up these formations. ------ Chevron is one of the best fuels to use because of their additive package. ----- Some dealers have recognized the need for an extra additive, both in the fuel and in the engine oil to control this formation. ---- (Both my Toyota and my Chevrolet dealer sell & recommend the BG products for this purpose.) ----- Yes, it makes an extra profit for the dealership, but if these products are doing the job, than the cost justifies their use! ------ (Saturn Vehicles are noted for this oil burning problem, and the solution to the problem is to soak the pistons with an "penetrating oil chemical" through the spark plug hole overnight to free the rings.) ----- Yes, carbon formation can cause oil burning by increasing crankcase pressure and allowing the PCV system to draw wet oil fumes into the combustion chamber. --------- Best regards. ------------ Dwayne. :shades: ;)
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 549
    Well stated Dwayne, but I still think you are overly cautious regarding the frequency of your oil changes. Top quality oil, plus BG, plus a good quality Chevron gasoline should allow you to drive far more than 2500 miles between changes. I believe you are on the road a fair amount--highway driving. What time frame usually amounts to 2500 miles?

    You are certainly not hurting your cars by frequent oil changes, but you are spending far more than you need for service. Just my opinion.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Depending on my schedule, I can do 2,500 miles between 6, 8, or 10 weeks! (Remember I am using two vehicles a 2007 Camry and a 2010 Malibu) ---- When I have the vehicle serviced I have them run a complete check on the vehicle. ---- At 5,000 mile intervals, I have the tires rotated, and the brakes checked. My car is my office, and it needs to be 100% at all times! I would rather "over maintain" a vehicle, ------ than be stranded on the road! My time is money! ------ The BG Products go back to the 70's. -------- Best regards. ---------- Dwayne :shades: ;) :)
  • Re: 2007 Toyota Solara SLE Convertible

    We purchased my wife's Solara convertible new in 2007 and have maintained it to factory specs. With just about 30K on the odometer, I had intended to have the Dealership begin servicing the cooling system and transmission using the BG product and shop procedures, followed up with similar servicing for the power brake and steering systems.

    While speaking with the Service Manager to schedule this work, I was advised that "Toyota no longer recommends the use of BG additives in their vehicles......." After hearing this, I was both suspicious and concerned, as our Owner's Manual clearly indicates having the vehicle serviced at specific mileage intervals using BG products. FYI....our local Goodyear Dealer continues to offer this service, using professional BG equipment and trained technicians to operate it, all of which I have witnessed.

    Question: I would appreciate reading responses from any other members who can share additional information on this topic.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Good Morning bdyment:

    Maintaining a vehicle is a very interesting process. ----- On one side, the manufacturer recommends what they consider to be an acceptable level of service, but in the real world, vehicles are used in many different styles, and under a different set of circumstances. ----- Throughout the automotive industry, we see a rash of engine oil sludge problems in a variety of name plates, and we see engines burning oil as they accumulate mileage. ----- Many times the owner of the vehicle has maintained the vehicle according to factory specifications, and in some nameplates, a battle then begins between the customer who wants the manufacturer to honor an extended warranty, and a manufacturer who wants to VOID the warranty claim because of the number of units out in the marketplace with the problem of the potential for the problem. ------- My two vehicles, (2007 V6 Camry & 2010 4 cylinder Malibu), recommend service intervals of 5,000 miles. If I adhere to these figures and my engine develops a problem, will Chevrolet or Toyota say the my driving habits are VERY STRESSFUL, and I should have serviced the vehicle sooner, therefore we are not going to honor your extended warranty. ------ (You might think that this has not happened in the automotive marketplace, but if you take the time to do the research on the net, you will see one or more of the automotive nameplates have taken that very position with their customers who have serviced their vehicles at the dealer. ----- (These customers cannot afford to repair their own vehicle, so as such, they cannot afford to take the manufacturer to court!) --- I have chosen to divided the "recommended service intervals" in half, and have all of the serviced performed at the selling dealer. Should I experience a problem there is no way that the dealer, or the vehicle manufacturer can claim that I did not service my vehicle under the terms and conditions of the owner's manual, and / or the requirements of the extended warranty. (EXAMPLE: ---- If I was to experience a "sludge condition" on one of my vehicles at 2,500 mile service, when the recommended service was 5,000 miles, and all of my service was done at the dealer, the manufacturer would have to replace the engine under the terms and conditions of the extended warranty.) By giving my vehicle this level of service, I am insuring that my vehicle will run at the most efficient level throughout its life, and I am protecting my warranty interests. ----- The alcohol in the gasoline today is putting added stress on the engines. (Alcohol is a cleaner, not a lubricant.) ----- The combustion chamber is a "hot / dry place!" ---- Valves, pistons and valve seats are operating under very negative conditions. Maintenance and fuel additives do have a place in the daily operating process. Not all additives are equal, and not all additives do the job. A dealer will not sell an additive to a customer that will destroy the vehicle. That is simply not good business. In the marine business we use additives in the fuel, because marine engines work very hard. A boat going down a river at 28mph has an engine that is doing 3,200 rpm. (Show me land based vehicle that has an engine that is doing 3,200rpm at 55mph!) ------- Best regards. ---------- Dwayne
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "..our local Goodyear dealer..."

    Sorry :sick: , but that statement goes toward discrediting anything you might have to say.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    How do you know, decide, which additives have a positive effect/result, vs NEGATIVE, or even neutral...?

    "...alcohol is a cleaner, not a lubricant.."

    I have often used gasoline as a "cleaner", even better than alcohol, does that mean I shouldn't be fueling my cars with same....?
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    By a cleaner, I mean that the fuel is "DRY" in that it lacks a lubricant, like the old fuel that had lead! ----- Without a "lubricant, " carbon will stick to the underside of valves and in the grooves of the pistons. ----- Without a "lubricant" valve seats will be eaten away. ---- Gasoline is used to cool the "in tank fuel pump," and a lubricant in the gasoline will help to lubricate that pump! ----- When you run the tank low on fuel, you damage the pump. ---- A pump should last 100,000 miles. DO NOT use gasoline as a cleaner. TOO dangerous! ---- Best regards. ----Dwayne :shades:
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Hi Dwayne;

    As you've probably noticed, I share your appreciation for intelligently selected additives, but I did want to add a few comments about alcohol, carboned ring grooves, and high temperature sludge.

    Although alcohol does not have the self lubricating qualities of gasoline, and when added to gasoline, does undesirable things to fuel economy; it also offers several redeeming virtues. One is that it adds oxygen to the combustion, which causes blended fuels to burn cleaner than straight gasoline. The oxygenation reduces carbon monoxide emissions, and ALSO REDUCES THE AMOUNT OF CARBON DEPOSITS IN THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER. Alcohol used in fuel also acts as a cooling agent; which enables the use of higher compression ratios or greater spark advance without inducing preignition.

    I agree with your observation that carbon deposits are a much greater problem when using oxygenated fuels than they were with the old non-reformulated gasoline; but the additional carbon deposits do not come from the alcohol. Instead; the carbon results from specific additives which are used in fuel as lead substitutes; to protect the valve seats and to provide additional lubrication. The phenomenon of spark plugs coming out all black with carbon appeared shortly after unleaded fuel came into regular use in the late 1970s; long before alcohol was being added to fuel. Although I deplore the widespread use of alcohol as an oxygenating agent; I am at least happy that the industry acknowledged the health danger of the MTBE which was promoted by Chevron as an alternative oxygenating agent. So I think it is important to not give alcohol a bad rap for something it doesn't really do. I much prefer to lose 10% fuel economy than to be exposed to yet another carcinogen. (Of course; alcohol is also a carcinogen; but it is apparently less of one).

    The sludge which has become an engine problem in the last ten years is quite the opposite of the sludge which used to be found in engines of the 1950s that were using non-detergent oil; or the sludge found in more recent engines which never had their oil changed. These older types of sludge were formed as a result of engines that were rarely driven far enough to thoroughly warm up the oil and boil off the contaminants; but with the use of detergent oil, these contaminants are normally trapped by and suspended in the oil, and then periodically removed by regular oil changes and filter replacements.

    But the late model sludge is called "high temperature sludge." This sludge is created when engine oil comes in direct contact with very hot objects. The cooling systems in late model engines have been redesigned to decrease the amount of heat lost to the radiator; in order to speed the warm up process and to improve vaporization of the incoming fuel mixture (in order to further reduce emissions and increase fuel economy). In some engines; this has resulted in local hot spots in cylinder heads; where the lubricating oil is exposed to higher temperatures than it previously encountered. And this hot contact can cook the oil and generate sludge from the oil breakdown. The solution for this problem has been for engineers to again redesign the cylinder heads; to eliminate the hot spots and even out the temperature. But those of us who own vehicles produced during the learning curve have an ongoing problem with high temperature sludge. Hey; ain't that a great motivating force to move people to buy newer models?
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Good Morning zaken1:

    YOUR POSTING WAS OUTSTANDING! ------ Kindly be advised that I was not trying to to blame the carbon on the alcohol! ------ I was just trying to give some reason why using HIGH QUALITY additives could be beneficial to both the performance and the longevity of the automotive engine.

    Every Sunday I make it a point to check all the fluids on both vehicles in preparation for the week's activities. The Camry now has 63, 100+ miles and when I pulled the dip stick to check the oil, the oil film on the stick is as clean as the first day that I took delivery of the vehicle in January of 2007. ----- This is the way it should be on any vehicle, but I would doubt that it would be in that state, if I changed my oil and filter every 5,000 miles, as suggested by the manufacturer. ------ When I owned the 2003 4 cylinder Honda Accord, the recommended oil and filter change was every 10,000 miles, but the recommended interval by the dealer was 3,750 miles. (What does the dealer know about "real world usage" that the manufacturer does not know?) ------ (I would love to pull the dip stick of an Accord that has been given 10,000 mile oil and filter service at 63,000+ miles!) ----- As stated in previous posting, when I purchase a vehicle I put 100,000 mile "top of the line manufacturer's extended warranty" from the dealer, and I give the vehicle outstanding service. ----- Once I get to 100,000 miles, I trade the vehicle because I do not want to finance an expensive repair, such as a transmission, but at the same time, I want the vehicle to perform at 100% up to that point!

    Alcohol in the fuel, in the marine industry, is a disaster! ----- Boat owners have problems with plastic / fiberglass tanks dissolving, and this material being carried into the fuel system! ----- There are also engine problems associated with this fuel tank issue. (Some boats have aluminum tanks so this problem does not exist. But on the other side of the issue, water and alcohol in fuel, in an aluminum tank, can cause electrolysis.) ---- In addition, long periods of storage over the winter, due to moisture in the surrounding air, causes "phase separation" in the fuel tank. ----- (The gasoline and the alcohol & water separate.) ----- Additives are poured into the tank, prior to storage, to help to prevent this action from occurring! ----- Outboard Motors are affected more that an inboard engine with regards to the quality of the fuel. ----- Marine fuel suppliers have recognized this problem by developing a fuel know as Valve-tec which is nothing more than additives and a lubricant in the fuel.

    The subject of "oil and filter" service will be a debate for as long as automobiles are on this earth. Everyone has an opinion about the "best oil," service intervals, and every manufacturer has their own personal recommendations. ----- But there is a bottom line to the entire process. 1.) The owner needs to give their vehicle high quality service to keep it running at peak efficiency during the period of ownership, ----- 2.) The owner needs to protect their investment in terms of the original and the extended warranty, ----- 3.) The owner needs to recognize that the manufacturer is going to look for any reason not to honor their warranty "if" they can prove owner abuse. ---- (If the owner of the vehicle changes the engine oil at 5,000 mile intervals, as recommended by the manufacturer, and the engine develops sludge, the manufacturer is going to blame the owner of the vehicle for neglect, and as such, they will not honor the extended warranty.) ------ When this happens, the owner of the vehicle is responsible for the cost of the repairs. The cost of an engine this could range from $5,000.00 to $10,000 dollars. An oil and filter change costs me $40.00 at the dealer with the BG additive. Let's assume that a replacement engine for the Camry would be about $7,500.000 dollars. If I change my oil and filter every 2,500 miles in 63,000 miles, I have changed my oil about 25 times at a cost of $1000.00 dollars. (In 100,000 miles it will have cost me $1,600.00 dollars.) This maintenance keeps my engine clean and keeps my warranty in good standing! ------- I guess it is a personal thing! ------- Best regards to all. ------- Dwayne
  • canccanc Posts: 715
    This is a very informative post; thank you. So, I'm assuming that the Camry is a "late model engine which has been redesigned (...)". I noticed that the warm-up process for my Camry, even though I'm in Canada where the cold winters can be brutal on some days, my car heats up in NO time. Where a car would take about 5 minutes of driving to warm up, mine does it in 2. I often drive less than a mile for it to reach the halfway mark on my temp gauge.

    So when did this learning curve end exactly, or is it still going on?
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Hi Canc:

    I know many people on this board are going to disagree with me, but on "cold winter mornings," I start my vehicle, and let it warm up while I remove the ice from the windows. ---- I have decided a long time ago, that I would not drive a vehicle in the cold weather, until I get some heat from the heating system. ---- Since I have a six speed automatic transmission, and I can operated it in the manual mode, I only allow it to shift to the 3rd gear while driving on the city streets. ----- Once the engine temperature reaches "normal operating temperature" I place the transmission selector into full automatic, and enter the highway! ----- This works for me! ----- Best regards. ------ Dwayne.
  • wwwest:

    Re: Dealer Discontinuing BG Service for Toyotas

    My indicating that GoodYear continues to offer BG SERVICE for ALL makes of vehicles goes to support the probability that BG servicing may, in fact, still be considered for maintaining longevity of the vehicle; my statement should not be construed as a contradiction of the Dealers' inability to offer this service.

    I am simply requesting Forum members to share their knowledge, or experience, towards commenting on the use, or non-use, of the BG System as administered by Toyota Dealerships; it would be helpful, here, if Readers not utilize my observation, that GoodYear continues to offer BG Service, to preclude them from providing useful responses to my initial inquiry.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Goodyear, or Firestone will sell/HYPE ANYTHING that has a hefty profit margin.

    Most worthless, "snake oil" type products do.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    I believe the learning curve ended recently for a few proactive manufacturers; and it is still going on for others. Please do not ask me to specify which companies have completed their education. I am not privy to that level of detail.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    edited March 2011
    Hi All: --------------------- Both my Chevrolet & Toyota dealer use and recommend the complete line of BG products. ----- I have used the BG / MOA oil additive at every oil and filter change since the Camry was new, and it now has 63,300+ miles. ------- My engine is quiet, smooth, powerful and sludge free. ---- It does not use "oil" between oil and filter changes every 2,500 miles. (Some engines on these boards use oil every 1,000 miles!) ----- I think BG makes some quality products, but the choice of whether or not to use them in your vehicle is up to you, --- as the owner. --- You have to make an individual choice! ----- (I have only used the oil and fuel additives. -------- I use the fuel additive every 5,000 miles.) The oil on the dip stick is as clean today as when I took delivery of the vehicle. The dealers do not force me to use these additives. It is my choice! The decisions is yours! ----------- NOTE: ------ I have started to use the BG/MOA in the oil of the Chevrolet Malibu. I am planning to use this additive at the recommended 5,000 mile oil change intervals. (5,000 - 10,000 - 15000- 2000 - etc) ---- At the 2,500 mile oil and filter changes, "in-between", I will just use the recommended oil.

    Best regards. ------------ Dwayne :shades: ;)
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