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2007 Toyota Camry Problems and Repairs

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  • kenkat1kenkat1 Posts: 1
    Hello to all ; I am new to edmunds forum. I am desperate to resolve the oil use prob w/07 Camry 2.4. We bought it new and chg oil faithfully every 3000 miles. It has incremently increased its oil consunption to 1.2 qts in 2300 mls and the car has only 41700 mls on it! Canc; I am totally w/you I will never buy another Toy if they don't fix this one. kenkat1
  • sumnercsumnerc Posts: 12
    use of BG/MOA is only for cars using regular oil, never synthtic like mobil 1.
    Different cars consume oil no matter what anywhere fron 1 quart for each 1,500-2300 miles this is normal.
  • canccanc Posts: 715
    Hi Kenkat1,

    Sadly, I've done quite a bit of research on this topic and we are far from being alone. I'm also concerned that as the car gets older, the oil consumption will increase. I have to rack up about 3000 kms. now before my dealer sends the results to Toyota; has your dealership offered to do anything about your case?
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    One of the less commonly understood details about oil burning is that it can be caused by using an improper driving technique during the break-in period (up to 1,000 miles). Some owners still follow the old, outdated practice of being as easy as possible on the motor during the first 1,000 miles. Sixty or more years ago, this was good practice; as motor oils were not as good as they now are, and piston rings were not as durable as they now are, so avoiding excess heat and load was appropriate.

    However; this has all changed over the years: Todays motors are very precisely machined, motor oil now contains very effective anti wear additives, and the use of hard chromed piston rings has become standardized. These rings are so tough that they need extra loading during break in; so they can wear in to match the finish of the cylinder wall.

    It is still good practice to avoid heavy loads during break in; in order to allow the sliding parts to loosen up gradually; but at the same time; it is necessary to periodically put enough extra pressure on the piston rings for them to seat properly. If this is not done; an engine can become an oil burner.

    Here's the proven, time tested technique I use to break in a new motor. Always drive gently until the engine oil has reached normal operating temperature (usually after 5 or more miles of driving). Then, spaced out during the first 150 miles; do ten brisk accelerations from 35 to 55 mph. I usually begin these runs when the motor has about 25 miles on it, and start out by using about 1/2 throttle, but progressively increase the amount of throttle, until using about 3/4 throttle by the time the motor has 150 miles on it. Besides the ten acceleration runs, I do not otherwise drive aggressively; BUT I ALSO DO NOT USE CRUISE CONTROL DURING THE BREAK IN PERIOD. It is important to vary the speed by at least 10 mph frequently; in order to allow the engine to operate under a wider range of loads, and occasionally to permit extra oil to be drawn into the cylinder during decelleration. This practice is not appreciated by other drivers on the road; but it sure makes a difference in the way the motor runs during its subsequent lifetime.

    Another important tip is to carry in the car a quart of the same brand and weight of oil that was originally put in the motor. That way, you won't be forced to add a different brand of oil if it needs a quart during the break in (or at any other time).

    New motors cannot use most brands of synthetic oil during break in. The reason for this is that synthetic oil is so slippery and has such high wear resistance that it will prevent the piston rings from seating if used during the first 5,000 miles. Mobil 1 is the only synthetic that can safely be used during break in.

    I also would not tow a trailer, drive at speeds over 60 mph, or climb a long, steep uphill grade (especially not in hot weather) for at least the first 500 miles.
  • Here is my experience with 2007 4cyl. Toyota used a rubber connector for the oil line and eventually it disintegrates as any high school kid can tell you. Mine failed and drained all the oil out of the car. Luckily or not (depending on how you look at it) I was alerted by the engine noise and it was fixed ($700). Keep an eye on any oil on your driveway as it may start slow as ours did and then all of a sudden rupture. A toyota mechanic told me that Toyota had tried 3 fixes for this problem. This may not turn out to be a problem for you but I thought I would mention it. Good luck.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Good Morning Ledzepplin:

    Kindly be advised that the Toyota Fix for this problem is to replace the "flexible oil line" with a "steel line!" ------- I had this done by the Toyota Dealer under the Extended Warranty, when I read about this problem on this site! --- My vehicle, (2007 V6 XLE), had not yet showed signs of leakage, but I wanted it replaced since I spend many hours on the road, --- and I DID NOT want to experience this failure! ---- (I had to "politely push" them to take this action, but when I used "professional logic" they agreed!) ----- This should have been a "call back on the part of Toyota!" ---- The process of replacing the line took about four hours!

    Best regards. ----------------- Dwayne :shades: ;)
  • I am curious to know if you have had to replace a 2nd or 3rd ignition coil yet...as I've just had my 2nd one replaced...probably about a month after the 1st one went bad. I am pretty upset about it... as my 2007 Camry LE only has about 40k and my husband is threatening to now trade it in. I currently own 3 Toyota's and my previous Camry lasted a very long time so I bought another. I am very concerned that the quality may be slipping. Let me know how yours is doing as I am curious if this is an issue with the cars we purchased or just a fluke. (I am hoping) Thx
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    HI, so far I have not had to replace another coil. DO you have a 4 or 6 cylinder. I have a v-6. I think it is unusual for these coils to go bad on any car with low mileage. I am not happy about at all and I too believe the Toyota quality has slipped big time. I was able to replace the coil myself . The part cost me $90 The front coils are a 5 minute job though Toyota wanted $300 for parts and labor.

    I would also let Toyota know about your problem. Maybe they will have a recall one day.

    Keep me updated, thanks
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Hi All:
    I have never replaced a coil, (or any electronic device), on my 07 V6 XLE Camry, and this vehicle now has almost 64,000 miles. ------ Outside of the "oil line," my vehicle has been "trouble free" since I took delivery, and this line was replaced BEFORE it stated to leak! --------- (Maybe I was just lucky!) ----- I think the Camry is a high quality product.

    Best regards. ---------- Dwayne ;)
  • I am having that problem now with my 07 Toyota Camry....have already replaced 2 of the ignition coils AND all spark plugs....what was your "fix" after all said and done? :-(

    Anna
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    Hi, Can anyone tell me how much distance is normal between the rear tire and the struts. The round plate or spring that is over the tire has only a half inch between the tire and plate. The fronts have more space. Are my struts worn out?

    I have 48,000 miles on 2007 v-6 SE Camry
    Thanks for any help, chuck
  • jomarexjomarex Posts: 4
    I took it to the mechanic before it got hot enough to need the A/C. He says it has a full charge of refrigerant, and it never quit blowing really cold the whole time he burned up a lot of gas, idling it to see if it would quit.

    Last year, it would blow hot intermittently; now, it only blows cold for a minute or two after I start the cold engine, and blows hot the rest of the day while I keep driving around. It appears that if I let the engine cool down enough, then it will blow cold for a minute, then hot. It's only been hot outside the last couple of days, though.

    I have fixed a lot of things on cars, but know nothing at all about A/C...

    any ideas for me?
    thanks
  • jomarexjomarex Posts: 4
    well, I guess I posted under a different topic. I can't make any sense of this forum, can't figure out how to make a post...
  • DJM:

    First, I appreciate your (detailed) response to my initial question to the Forum regarding Toyota's use of BG Service. It appears though, that the earlier (on-going) discussions on oil additives have somewhat distorted my original question. I will now endeavor to clarify that request for the Forum:

    The BG Service I am referring to is NOT an oil additive; the BG servicing kit, and product, consists mostly of two (2) canisters. The BG SERVICE is administered by a trained technician and is applied to 1.) The automatic transmission, 2.) The Cooling System, 3.) The Hydraulic Brake System, 4.) The Power Steering System; the product is introduced into a pumping and evacuation machine and, under careful supervision, evacuates the existing fluid while introducing, under pressure, the new BG fluid along with the appropriate conditioners, anti-corrosive components, and the like, depending on the system being serviced. A Sight-Gauge and Pressure Indicator in PSI is monitored by the technician during this operation.

    I've already had both the cooling system and trans serviced on my Mazda
    Tribute using the BG System and product. I am now questioning the Forum to determine if other members have encountered any Toyota Dealerships stating that they (the Dealership) no longer offer this (BG) SERVICE.

    Hopefully, this new discussion has served to clarify my original question. Again, I look forward to any further input from the Forum.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Hey; it's OK. You didn't post under a different topic; you posted in this thread. The confusing thing about this forum is that it often places new posts on the page that comes after the one that was visible when you originally posted the message; so if you go back to the page where you started; it may look like your post is not there. If you are trying to find a post that you made within the last week; the easiest thing to do is to start at the last page in the forum you're using; and search all the posts on that page. If the post is not on that page; try looking through the page before that one. The list of all the page numbers in a given forum will appear at the top of each page.

    You can start a new message by clicking the "post new message" button at the top of the page; or you can reply to an existing message by clicking the "reply" button on the top right of that message. And you can navigate back from a reply to the original message by clicking the link on the line that begins with "replying to" which is located just below the date and time of the original message.
  • poonerpooner Posts: 5
    edited April 2011
    I just noticed the a/c on my 2007 V6 LE won't cool. The light on the dash comes on but there is no sign of compressor activity.The relay seems to work when tested on the bench but there doesn't seem to be power heading to the relay from the controls. Also, when I bypass the relay, the compressor clicks but doesn't sound like it is starting. I'm thinking possible freon leak or possibly seized compressor. All of which sounds pricey for a 4 yr old car from Toyota. Anybody have experience with this? Thanks.
  • ctlctl Posts: 123
    This can happen when the cabin air filter gets too dirty...
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I can't pull out the service manuals since I'm travelling , but I would suspect low freon pressure.

    Many A/C systems have a freon pressure switch as part of the system, and if you don't have enough pressure then the compressor is prevented from turning on. Theory being, the freon has oil in it, and if there isn't enough freon....then there is not enough oil for the compressor, and this prevents compressor damage.
  • luckysevenluckyseven Posts: 134
    Low freon pressure means a leak. Unfortunately leaky AC is something that most DIYers including myself can't handle properly. Check for AC electrical and control problem and go to see a mechanic. Even small piece of flying road debris can make pretty impressive damage to evaporator and your pocket.
  • Ok so now it's about a month later and guess what...another coil error. It is a 6 cylinder and this is replacement number 3. Something must be causing this to happen...I just can't believe that they are all going bad one at a time within a month of one another. Someone must have some insight. Please give me some suggestions...I don't want to get another car but I can't afford to keep taking it in for the same problem. Could there be a short somewhere? I don't know what to do next. Is it worth paying extra to have the last three replaced while the have the manifold off to replace this one? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    Can you have sombody reset the codes. Sometimes Auto zone can be talked in to it. I was wondering do you have a remote start. I'm wondering if you try to start the car by mistake while the car is running it might cause a electrical surge to the coils.
    When my coil went bad it was right after I made that starting mistake though I was told by many that should not have been the problem.
    I hope others can this sight can help.
    I also think Toyota is using less than quality parts these days.
    Good luck
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Who is diagnosing this problem, and what error codes are you getting? It would be very unusual to have all these coils going out.

    I've found that random misfire across multiple cylinders, could be fuel delivery or one of the many sensors (like crank). A solid error code on only one cylinder, would suspect either the coil or plug in that cylinder.
  • No I don't have a remote start so that isn't it. I am at a loss...any other suggestions? Anyone?
  • Thanks for the input we will see what the outcome is in a few days...as back to the dealership I go. I like having suggestions to give them when I go in so they can have something to go on and try to fix the real cause of this problem instead of just replacing parts one by one.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    Any new info on the ignition coils
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    Has anyone has a problem with engine squeaking while car is idling. My 2007 Camry v-6 has a squeak coming from the belt pully area which is also near the water pump and alternator.How can I tell where it is coming from. I hope it;s not anything more than a dried up belt but it sounds more like a pully.
    Thanks for any help.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    With the engine off, take the accessory belt off.

    Start the engine temporarily and confirm that the squeak stopped (ie, it's not a bearing inside the engine). Turn engine back off.

    Now turn each pulley slowly by hand, and try to wiggle it as well. You can feel for smooth bearing movement, and no wobble side to side. I've done this on all of my vehicles over the years, and I can always easily feel the device who's bearing has gone bad. Many times it's the belt tensioner pulley, but I've had an alternator on one vehicle, and a A/C compressor on another vehicle.

    When you find the bad accessory, replace it. Put the belt back on, and you're good to go.

    You can search the internet and find video's as to how to take accessory belts on and off. It's usually by putting a wrench or large screwdriver on the belt tensioner, slowly take the tension off the belt, take the belt off one of the pulleys, then slowly release the pressure on the tensioner. Reverse the process to put belt back on. All vehicles have a belt routing graphic somewhere under the hood.
  • litlladylitllady Posts: 1
    I would like to note after searching online for the same issue I ended up here at this forum.

    We have a Toyota Camry 2007 le with about 40,000 miles on it and replaced our first coil about a week ago. Already, another coil is going bad. We are too upset about this and are looking for answers. Literally, a mechanic at the Toyota place told us that the coils are a defective design, in HIS OPINION. He said he is replacing them all the time. I guess a letter to Toyota is the next step? I dont know alot about cars but Im missing the ol 'change a spark plug' fix.

    Will be watching this thread.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    It might be helpful to know that there are two separate warranties on this car. The regular manufacturer's 3 year, 36 000 mile warranty has obviously expired by now; but there is also a Federally mandated warranty on parts that affect emissions. The ignition coils affect emissions; so they should be covered under the Federal emission compliance warranty. This warranty is good for at least 50,000 miles (depending on the parts covered). If the dealership is not sure or is uncooperative about whether the federal emission warranty covers the coils; You'll need to check with the regional Toyota Customer Service office about this matter. This information can probably also be found on the Toyota website.

    In addition; it is common for a reputable manufacturer to extend the length of their warranty coverage on parts which have become known to fail prematurely. There certainly have been enough ignition coil failures on Camry V-6 motors to justify such a move. But it might require some persuasion by a competent attorney before they decide to act responsibly. All Toyota would have to do in order to determine whether there is an abnormal failure rate on those coils is to pull up the figures on how many of those coils have been sold by dealerships. They already have those figures. The question is only whether they will be willing to look into it.
  • Hello everyone,

    How can you determine if you're having ignition coil issues? I purchsed my 07 Camry se v6 back in December and sometimes when I'm driving and I come off the gas the engine seems to just die down as if I slammed on the breaks. Anyone know what that could be? Also I noticed when I purchased the car that the oil level was double what it was supposed to be and they told me that was normal. I know enough about cars to know that too much oil in the motor is just as be as not enough. I recentyl got my first oil change after purchasing the car Sunday and this time they filled it up even higher than before. I didn't notice it until Monday and since work 6 days a week I wont be able to make it back there until Sunday. What do u guys think?
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