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2007 Toyota Camry Problems and Repairs

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  • notmybmwnotmybmw Posts: 101
    I replaced (or HAD replaced) the stabilizer links on the front ends of both the 325 AND the Camry. It cured the BMW, but had little effect on the Camry.
    Turned out the Camry rattle was more in the back end; we replaced the rear stabilizer bushings to cure THAT rattle.
    Guess I'll have to start slowing down for those speed bumps.
  • Above makes incredible noises when going over normal bumps. A buckboard would be much smoother by comparison. Tires and shocks don't appear to be the problem. Maybe it is the car model. Toyota started building cr-p at about this time, culminating in the 2007 camry.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Toyota AND Lexus upper front rubber shock/strut cushions/mounts are failing prematurely. Rubber compresses, is pushed aside, and then you have metal to metal contact with upward strut strokes.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    Does anyone know what kind of labor and cost are involved in fixing the noise caused by Toyota AND Lexus upper front rubber shock/strut cushions/mounts are failing prematurely. Rubber compresses, is pushed aside, and then you have metal to metal contact with upward strut strokes ?
    I have had this problem for a while and seems to be getting worse. Does Toyota admit the poroblem and will they flip for the bill?
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    I have a 2007 v- 6 Camry
  • check struts if leaking or damaged
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    Hi Does anyone know the exact location of the oxygen sensor. I'm told this is down stream Bank 1 sensor 2 I'm also looking for the correct Denso OE part #

    Has anyone replaces this sensor. I heard that the connector may connect in the console of the car which has to be taken apart.

    Thanks for any info.

    chuck
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    Last weekend check engine light came on code read P0138 Bank 1 sensor 2 Oxygen sensor. I disconnected battery light went off but came back on after short drive. Disconnected 1 more time for 45 minutes and light has stayed off. I've driven only 30 miles this week. I'm thinking the light will come on again or did the problem resolve itself? I have a new sensor but waiting to have it installed until the check engine comes on again.

    Any thought out there, thanks chuck
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Disconnecting the battery is not the correct way to clear codes on OBDII (1996 and later) vehicles. That's why the light comes back on. A code scanner is the proper way to clear codes on these vehicles. But if it stays off; you lucked out.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    Thanks Zanken, not sure if it will stay off. Wondering if you had any thoughts what triggered the light to come on in the first place. Can it be a dirty Oxygen sensor that cleaned it's self when heated up?

    Thanks again, chuck
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    edited March 2012
    Disconnecting the battery for 10-15 minutes will always be a more sure, certain way to clear codes. Oxygen sensor (NOT A/F sensor) often means catalyst has failed or is in the process, intermittent code "throwing" is not altogether unusual.

    Using the OBDII tool only clears the specific code, disconnecting the battery causes the system to erase the previously "learned" control parameters, the system then reverts to the factory default parameters and restarts the parametric "learning" process.

    A/F ratio sensors (oxygen sensors upstream of the catalyst) will often throw codes due to consistently low battery voltage, <12.5V static, or Trac/VSC activation for non-DBW vehicles.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    HI West, this is a bank 1 sensor 2 downstream oxygen sensor. When you mention "catalyst" do you mean catalyst converter is failing?

    Thanks for any info. chuck
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Yes, the downstream sensor is used to continuously check, verify the efficiency of the catalyst. Be aware that a crack/leak in the exhaust pipe nearby the converter will allow oxygen to reach the catalyst while it is still warm from teh just previous operation. Trac or VSC operation in a non-DBW car will/might also result in oxygen reaching a HOT converter.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    Thanks for the reply. Update on the car. Check engine came back on tonight while driving on Highway. Going to try to have my mechanic throw in the oxygen sensor tomorrow if he's not busy.
    I'm hoping the sensor will be the problem. I've already changed the upstream fuel/ratio sensor a few mothes ago. Car been fine up to now.
    If I don't get a chance to have senor installed should I disconnect the battery to reset the code so the car will run better until the sensor is changed?
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    I don't know, can't say, if the engine will run better, or not, with the code cleared. On the other hand the VSC will work that way.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    Here the latest, had mechanic replace Oxygen sensor Bank 1 sensor 2 downsream. He cleared code. After about 15 miles of driving check engine came back on. Went to auto zone same code PO138 Oxygen sensor.
    My Mechanic will take a closer look and check with his computer Monday morning.
    West, you mentioned could be catylist converter. I wonder how Toyota will diagnose that. That would be a emissions warranty. I have trouble trusting Toyota, scared they will want to change other parts that aren't covered under warranty at high cost.
  • patty19patty19 Posts: 11
    edited March 2012
    My engine light came on today. I thought maybe my gas cap was not screwed on tight so I checked it while the engine was turned off for a few minutes. But, after I put in gas in the car and started it up again the light came back on. I noticed that the performance of the car is sluggish. How long can I drive the car like this? I have no money right now to get it fixed not until two weeks. Will my engine be damaged if I drive the car with the engine light on for two weeks. Can someone please advise me on what to do? How much will this cost me if I take my car to the Toyota dealership. My car is a 2007 Camry XLE and has over 98,000 miles.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    Hi Patty, I would go to auto zone first and ask ask them to read the code. They will do it for free. The code will tell you what part has failed. Check back on this post with the info form auto zone and you will get info on how to resolve the problem at a cheaper cost than the dealership. The car should be ok to drive but do your self a favor and get to auto zone.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    update, had mechanic check new oxygen sensor again. Computer said new sensor running high. He thought catylist converter was ok. Suggested that new sensor could have been bad. I ordered another Denso. Will see after replacement this weekend.
    Anybody have any thoughts what else could be triggering this code.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    edited March 2012
    The high oxygen sensor reading could be caused by a mass airflow sensor which needed cleaning; a throttle body which needed cleaning, spark plugs which have 50,000 or more miles on them; or which were previously replaced with unsuitable brands or plug models, a defective fuel pressure regulator could do it; a defective coolant or air temperature sensor for the ECU could do it, a restricted fuel filter could do it, and a defective or incorrect model engine coolant thermostat could do it.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    Hi Zaken, thanks for that info. I know i didn't mention in my last post that the engine is a V-6 3.5 2007 Camry just in case you didn't remember. I have had to change 1 ignition coil never had the plugs changed. THe car has 58,000 miles. This weekend I hope to have my mechanic put in another oxgen sensor in case the previous new one is defective. I will have him check the other possibilities you listed. Thank you for all your help. I really appreciate it, chuck
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    If the upstream oxygen sensor(s), A/F mixture control sensor(s) are not generating fault codes and and the downstream oxygen sensor, catalyst efficieny sensor, is...then...

    1.) The sensor has failed.
    2.) The catalyst efficiency is lacking.
    3.) The sensor is being exposed to atmospheric qxygen while still hot from previous engine operation....exhaust leak or even extended period of VSC/Trac operation for a non-DBW engine.

    You can buy a non-california catalytic converter on Ebay inexpensively.
  • patty19patty19 Posts: 11
    Hi Chuck,

    Autozone scanner said that I have an Ignition Coil problem. The man at Autozone said it could be from me needing the spark plugs replace to the spark plugs and up to the six coils replaced depending on how many are bad. I can't get my hands on that kind of money until next Friday and the car is starting to run more sluggish every day I drive it. I just need to be able to make it until next Friday. I hope by driving the car I'm doing more damage to it. Please advise where should I take the car besides the Toyota Dealer which will definitely cost more. Thanks for some advice anyone can give me.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    hi patty you need to get the # code it should be on the printout from autozone. The front coils are eas y to replace. Each coil has its own # even #s are front coils 302, 304, 306 if its the front coil it a 5 min easy fix and you can do it yourself or have somebody help you. The part can be bought on line cheaper at Rockauto.com they are good. toyoto sells the coil for $100 the brand you want is Denso. If you need more info just ask. ps u should be ok driving the car until u get the coil
  • patty19patty19 Posts: 11
    Hi Chuck,

    Codes are
    P0300 - Random Cylinder misfire condition
    P0301 - Cylinder 1 misfire detected
    P0354 - Ignition coil primary/secondary circuit fault

    Should I take the car to Toyota or let someone else fix it who know eactly what they are doing. How accurate is the Autozone scanner?
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    Patty, do you have a 6 or 4 cylinder car. What year is the car.
  • patty19patty19 Posts: 11
    Chuck,

    I have a 6 cylinder.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    code PO354 Is a front middle ign coil very easy to change . you can also try to disconnect the battery for 20 mins and that will clear the codes and turn off the check eng lite. It may or may not come back
  • patty19patty19 Posts: 11
    Thanks, Chuck ! What are the other (2) codes PO300 and PO301. This is for a 2007 Camry XLE 6 cylinder.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    Hi Patty, the other codes are probabally coming up due to the bad ignition coil. Good chance after replacing coil it will clear the codes. You may have to have the computer rest. Sometimes if you ask though they aren't supposed to autozone will reset code. Best to ask the guy while he is at your car checking the codes again. I would not take the car to Toyota. You can buy the part from them but they will charge you an arm and a leg for labor. Not sure where you live. There are other post by a guy name Zaken who is very helpful and may know a shop depending where you live. He also recommended a fuel addditive that help with carbon build up. It's made by Chevron. If I find the info from my old post I will send to you. Keep us informed.
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