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2007 Toyota Camry Problems and Repairs



  • Hi Bluese:
    I too have a similar "knock" on my SEV6 which is almost 18 months old. As you say, it goes away when the car warms up.
    I haven't noticed it for a while but the car has about 13,000 KM which is about 8K miles and it may be to the engine being "broken-in".
    Let us know what happens on Friday.
  • Sorry about the all caps - hope this is better. I have taken the car to two dealerships already. Very time consuming. In addition to the "tremor" problem, the last dealership damaged all four of my allow wheels on their balancing machine and had to have a technician polish them out - more time away from work! I'm fed up with dealerships and Toyotas. By the way, how do you know 99% of the '07 do not have this problem?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,666
    Estimate based on all the # of people reporting this issue in is website and TN website - yours is the first that can't be fixed I guess.

    Some cars from all makes have a tire out of balance, or a bad tire. These cases are not common, but it happens and is easily corrected.

    It's not like 50% have your problem, maybe worst case it's 1-2% have the problem, what do you think? It certainly not "ALL" as you imply. Good luck with your problem!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You may need to have your tires balanced on a special machine called a road force balancer, search the forum for previous discussions and links. Don't remember which of the Edmunds forums it's in, might be tires.

    It basically puts the equivalent weight of the car on the tire while it is balancing, and solves many of the 'tougher to balance' problems.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    Hello,I too have a knocking sound which sounds like a lifter when the engine is cold. It very noticable at low speeds and cold engine. I have just noticed thisa few weeks ago and was wondering what it may be. My car has about 12,000 miles on it. It is a V-6 SE 2007 Camry.
    Please keep us informed.I'm sorry you have this problem but it's good to know I wasn't the only one thinking it was a problem. Let's see what Toyota will do witrh this one. I have already gone through the mud slinger with my Transmission which they can't get right.
    Thanks agaian for your post.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    In my 27 years as a mechanic, one of the most embarrassing experiences I ever had was when a client asked me to listen to a knock her Celica was making when it was cold. This noise was LOUD. It sounded like a metal object was banging around inside the engine. So I told the owner "Don't drive this car one more block!!! Have it towed to the dealership for diagnosis under the warranty."

    Turned out the dealer fixed the problem by running some carbon solvent through the engine. The problem then disappeared, and the dealer advised the car owner to only use Chevron fuel. It seems the owner had been buying her fuel at cheap stations. Some cheap gas is just fine (I use it myself) but other brands don't contain enough cleaning compounds to keep the engine from building up excessive deposits. And those deposits then raise the compression ratio to the point that the engine knocks.

    One of the most effective deposit scavengers ever produced is called Techroline. Made by Chevron, it comes in a black bottle, in two sizes (large size for vehicles with large fuel tanks, and a small size for most imported cars). It is intended to be added to a tankful of fuel, and takes 50 to 100 miles to do its thing. Can be bought at most Chevron stations, and many auto parts stores. I've also seen it at Wal-Mart.

    There are also engines that develop piston slap while they are cold. Sometime changing to synthetic oil, or using a lighter weight of oil can improve cold lubrication. But piston slap is not necessarily abnormal, if it goes away when the engine warms up.

  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    Hello Zaken,in all due respect I don't know why a new $30,000 car should be making knocking noises and should requre special aditives to make the car run better. also if this in normal why isn't Toyota putting this in the owner manual?
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    There are two issues behind the weirdness we have to deal with in today's automobiles. One is that governmental legislation has established increasingly strict requirements for new vehicles to produce less emissions, while at the same time, maintaining or increasing fuel economy. These emissions laws also forced the gasoline companies to reformulate the fuel they produce. The new low emission fuels turned out to create less pollution, but they also had the side effect of leaving heavy deposits on valve stems and combustion chambers. And so the fuel companies had to add larger amounts and new formulas of deposit scavenging additives to their gas. Some companies additives work far better than others. Chevron, Shell, and Texaco are among the best fuels for controlling deposits. But some other brands don't work adequately in that respect. The car manufacturers have recognized this situation, and some of them have responded by publishing advisories about fuel brands and engine deposits. BMW set up specific tests to measure the amount of fuel deposits that were left in their engines, and then issued reports about which brands of fuel met their standards. Other manufacturers took different approaches to dealing with the fuel deposit problem. GM and Toyota dealers now sell their own brands of combustion chamber deposit cleaning additives. This is just one example of how evolving technology can create new classes of problems. Just a few years ago, such issues were unheard of, and would have been unacceptable to the public; but today, they are very real, and cannot be avoided. Because of the pressure to clean up the air we breathe, and now to stop global warming, changes are being made which do not always work as neatly as we'd like them to. As more information is gained about these changes, they will be revised and hopefully improved, but for now, this is something we just have to deal with.

    There are no perfect answers to the very understandable points you raised. Large companies feel a strong need to protect their image, and thus are reluctant to publicize the less attractive aspects of the problems and weaknesses of their products. But ask the Toyota service or parts departments why they now carry those bottles of deposit cleaning additives. Then you'll get the real picture.

    The new engine designs are also intended to work with much lighter weights of oil than they did even a few years ago. And oil chemistry is constantly evolving to meet these new requirements. It used to be that a single weight oil such as SAE 30 was appropriate for everyday use in most engines. But if you use a single grade oil in today's new model engines, it will often not flow adequately to the tightly machined spaces when the engine is cold. And that leads to knocking and wear. This is why the oil viscosity recommendations in new car owner's manuals now typically call for multi grade oils. 5W-30 or 5W-20 are the most common. And these light oils are now a lot stronger and more durable than they used to be.

    I hope this addresses the points you raised.

  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Good Morning Joel:
    Outstanding Post! ----- You are correct! ----Have a "GREAT DAY"! ----- Dwayne :shades: ;) :)
  • eroc69eroc69 Posts: 56
    I am sure this has been posted but could someone post the proper PSI for the tires. Mine is an 07 VE V-6 and it has the Bridgestone Turanza EL-II...
    Second issue or ??? is how freakin long should they last?
    I have just a tick under 13,000 and the treads are less than half a fingernail. Pinky nail at that..
    These will not help me through the Pittsburgh winter.
    I think the treadwear rating is a 250 or 260. Thats HORRIBLE...
    Any advice on the lack of mileage on these tires
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Correct tire pressure is listed on your drivers door jamb. For a 2007 LE 4 cyl, it is 30F/30R, and I have Michelins.
  • barroncbarronc Posts: 44
    I also have Michelins on my 2007 Camry XLE V-6 but I've already replaced the front two and the car had less than 10,000 miles on the odometer. I realize tires wear out quicker on front wheel drive vehicles, especially if the tires are the soft compound type. I normally set the tire pressure for both front and rear at 34.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    10K on front tires and they need replacing. Something is really wrong there or you bought so very soft compound tires. I have 12K on my wifes Caddy STS and they still look brand new. My 07 STS has about 10.8K and they also look brand new but it is 4 wheel drive if that matters.
  • toby33toby33 Posts: 3
    I called this number today and the person seemed to be telling me that this was normal operation. However, he did have a TSB number that he sent to my local dealer and told me I should hear from them soon. Thanks for the lead. I'll let you know what happens.
  • I have a 07 4cy se and have 38k on my bridgestone turaza el ll I am going to replace them soon with goodyear triple treads
    had them on my last camry there great
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Good Morning barronc:
    I have the same vehicle, with the same tires. My Camry now has 17,000+ miles, and I rotate my tires every 5,000 miles.-----(The vehicle is serviced every 2,500 miles. This is simply my choice! When the vehicle is in for service, I specifically have the dealer check the tires for uneven wear and structural problems, because I travel extensively!)---- I do not have a "tire wear" problem with this vehicle. When you replaced the tires, did you have the Toyota dealer do a complete alignment of the vehicle? Something is wrong with your vehicle!!!!!!!
    Best regards. ----- Dwayne :shades: ;) :)
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    I think it's like gas mileage -- your results may vary quite a bit, even if the tire is the same brand on the same car. If you don't rotate the tires on a fwd car, the front tires will wear rapidly. Aggressive driving (hard acceleration, cornering, and braking) will also increase tire wear. I'm not so sure alignment these days is the factor it once was, but certainly if the alignment is off, this will accelerate tread wear, as will improper wheel balance (much more common than faulty alignment).
  • Thanks for your post. Toyota performed the "Road Force" balancer as well as switched out my wheels for wheels from a new 2007 Camry and they said the steering "tremor issue is still there and they can do nothing else for me." A neighbor told me he once had a new car with this problem and it ended up being rotor(s) out of balance and when replaced, the tremor issue was no longer there. Does anyone out there have any information with regard to "bad rotors" and steering wheel "tremor". Shouldn't this be a warranty matter that a Toyota dealership would offer to check into?
  • I, too, have a cold engine knock on my new 2007 Toyota Camry 6 cyl. LE., and I live in the south. I shudder to think how loud it is going to get when it does get cold! Right now, I am trying to resolve a steering issue. I don't know if I will pursue the engine knock or not. It appears that Toyota does not want to take ownership of the myriad of problems they have created with this 2007 Camry. Assuming the cars are still under "warranty", perhaps they will be forced to do something about the engines when they freeze up, the transmissions fall out on the ground or the tires fall of the car.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Are you sure you mean to say "downshift"..?

    Traditionally, historically, automatic transmissions/transaxles would downshift into 1st gear just before coming to a full stop and that would result in a "seat-of-the-pants" feeling of sudden additional braking effects.

    Nowadays it appears that the downshift into 1st will not occur until the car has come to a FULL and COMPLETE stop.

    Since late in the last century the practice of "upshifting" the automatic transmissions as you coast down from 10-0 MPH or even 40-30 MPH has seemingly been adopted by Toyota, Lexus, and probably other marques as well.
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