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2007 Toyota Camry Problems and Repairs

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Comments

  • mike7311mike7311 Posts: 3
    edited December 2011
    If you spend a lot of time idling you may have very well overheated the main O2 sensor which will cause an internal short. Go to Auto Zone and get the universal O2 sensor, should be ~$60 or OEM style for ~140. This is more common than you think, but I'm surprised they will not cover this under the emissions warranty which is normally 8/80k.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    Thanks Mike. Can you be more specific on the main O2 sensor. The check engine light did come on after I was idling for 20 mins or so.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    I was told the 8/80,000 is in Calif only. 3 yrs here in Illinois. If you have other info. it would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks chuck
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,666
    Your warranty guide that comes with the owner's manual will tell you that emisions warranty is 8 years, 80k miles. It is a federal law, all states.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    i was informed that Toyota will not cover this sensor
    if you have other info please share. The . This info came from Toyota Hot line
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,666
    May not be part of the emissions then.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    Hi Zaken, would you be able to confirm where the fuel/ratio Bank 1 Sensor 1 is on the Toyota v-6 3.5 engines. I have gotten conflicting information of the location. I was told it is in the front by the radiator and others have said it is by the firewall.

    Still looking for the best affordable way to replace this sensor. If you have any thought it's always appreciated. chuck
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    edited December 2011
    Bank 1 is always the cylinder bank which contains the # 1 cylinder. Some manufacturers; like Ford, number their V-6 and V-8 cylinders so that Cyl # 1 is on the firewall side of a transverse engine. But GM, Chrysler, and Toyota number their V-6 and V-8 cylinders so that Cyl # 1 is on the radiator side of a transverse engine.

    The sensor is probably in or near the exhaust manifold for that bank. It is as easy to change as a spark plug. You'll probably need to buy an oxygen sensor socket; which is a deep socket made with a slot down the side; in order for the sensor cable to fit through the slot; so the socket can be used without cutting the cable for the sensor.

    Here's a link to a photo of this sensor: (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1606680)

    www.rockauto.com sells a Denso air fuel ratio sensor for this model for $109.99 plus shipping. That is about $100 less than all the other brands of air/fuel ratio sensors they sell for this car; and Denso is the original equipment part manufacturer.

    There is some confusion in my mind about the terminology they use: They make 2 different air/fuel ratio sensors for this motor, which both sell for the same price. Denso part #2349050 is listed as "upstream right," while Denso part # 2349041 is listed as "upstream left." Unless you are absolutely certain about the interpretation of these terms; I would phone Rock Auto Customer service at the number listed on the bottom of their website, and make sure to clarify which of those descriptions means Bank 1, on the radiator side.

    These parts are listed in their online catalog, in the "emissions" category, under "oxygen sensor." They list oxygen sensors and air/fuel ratio sensors in the same group.

    Looking back through the other responses you've received about this issue; it is apparent that some of the people who responded do not understand the difference between an oxygen sensor and an air/fuel ratio sensor. These parts are very different in both construction and price; and one cannot be substituted for the other. So you cannot use a generic oxygen sensor in place of your air/fuel ratio sensor.

    I also wanted to add that I have a Rock Auto discount code; which they are happy for me to share with other people. This code will reduce the price of the parts you buy by 5%. To apply it; just enter the number 73659436106501 at checkout, in the box that says "how did you hear about us" Just enter the number; no words or symbols.

    I also need to inform you that codes on 1996 and newer vehicles CANNOT be cleared by disconnecting the battery. This only works on pre-1996 vehicles. If you disconnect the battery on a 1996 or newer vehicle; the light will initially go off; but it will come back on in a few miles. The only way to clear codes from your computer is by using a code scanner which has code clearing capabilities. If you clear the code with a scanner (such scanners can be bought for about $50) you might find that the code does not come back, or maybe not.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    Thank you Zaken, for your help and the website for parts.I will try to call Rock auto and see if they can verify a part #.
    Toyota has changed there part# per TSB 0114-08 which also includes a modified Exhaust manifold. This can be costly and I'm waiting for a call back from Toyota on Monday to see if they will consider doing this under warrany seeing that it 's a design flaw per TSB and the consumer should'nt have to flip the bill for a manifold because a sensor goes bad.

    Another post mentioned about pulling a ECU fuse to reset the codes. Can that work? I hoping not to have to spend the $50 on a scanner though it might come in handy in the future.

    Thanks a gain for your help, chuck
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    I am unfamiliar with the technique of pulling the ECU fuse to clear codes. I doubt that will work; because it would basically be the same as disconnecting the battery. What needs to be done to clear codes is to specifically locate the code in the computer's memory, and erase that particular bit of information. This type of memory is called non-volatile memory; which means that it is not lost when power to the computer is disconnected. So if a car computer works like a home computer (which I'm sure it does) pulling the fuse will not clear codes. I assure you that a scanner will become a valuable asset; and the people you know who have car troubles in the future will also value your tool.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    Thank you Zanken, just said the same thing to my wife this morning about the scanner being used to help out family friends.

    I'll keep you updated when job is complete. Thanks again, chuck
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    I Zaken, can you or anyone else cofirm where the bank 1 sensor 1 is located on the Camry 2007 v-6 3.5 engine. I'm hearing conflicting reports. If Bank 1 is on the 1 cylinder side where is Cylinder 1 at.

    Would anyone have a digrams or pictures of this exact engine.
    Also does this car have 2 catalytic converters?

    I want to make sure of the location before I by a fuel ratio sensor.

    Thanks, chuck
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    I was wrong in the information I previously gave you. While bank 1 IS the bank which has #1 cylinder; the cylinders on your motor are numbered with #1 on the FIREWALL side. It is the cylinder closest to the fan belts (which are on passenger side of car). Here's a diagram if my words are not absolutely clear: (http://www.fixya.com/cars/t2218091-cylinder_number_5) This diagram is for a Lexus V-6; but the cylinder numbering is exactly the same as all Camry V-6s. I checked about 5 different references on this; and they all say the same thing.

    Very sorry I goofed. I rarely do.

    There are 2 catalytic converters on this model. They were produced in 2 different configurations. One version has a separate converter in unit with each exhaust manifold. The other version has 2 converters in a row in the exhaust pipe that runs back underneath the car from where both manifold outlets feed into it.

    You need to be aware that, since Toyota has superseded the original part design; the aftermarket parts sold online may or may not match the new Toyota part design. It is essential to first clarify this information about any part that you decide to buy. You DON'T want the first design.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    Hi Zaken, thanks for the update. I will look this over. This should be very helpful.
    I'm wondering that in my 2007 Camry I don't plan on purchasing a new updated Manifold just want to change the old Sensor. Can I then order the original aftermarket sensor. Rock auto gave me a Denso part# after cross referencing it with the original toyota part#.

    Thanks again for all your help, chuck
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    I was thinking about that option myself. Of course you can buy the original sensor. The one Rock Auto came up with should be just fine. I just wonder whether the defect they speak of will mean that it will fail at a low mileage.

    Another option would be to buy a pair of used exhaust manifolds and air fuel ratio sensors from a wrecking yard, taken from a 2008 or newer Camry with the 3.5 V-6. The part number for the AFR sensor changed in 2008, and the same one is used all the way up to the present day. I expect these manifolds are also the same as the upgrade they want to sell you. You might be able to get these parts surprisingly cheap. There are several wreckers who specialize in only Toyotas. Here's one of the most well reputed. They will ship parts anywhere in the US.
    (http://www.ranchotoyotatruckparts.com/carpages/T09235Z21460.html)

    To avoid surprises; you'd need to confirm that the catalytic converter style used with these manifolds is the same as the ones on your car (the later models use individual converters in unit with manifold). Rock Auto sells new integrated manifold/converters for the later Camrys for $400 each (2 required).
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    Thanks for the info. The used manifolds are an option. I think for time and money I will probabally choose the original sensor and hope I get another 50,000 miles out of it. I think this sensor has been a problem in the performance of my car even before the check enging light came on. Maybe heat related form the manifold. Toyota should issue a recall for the design of the manifold though I'm not holding my breath on that one.
    I just need to get under my car to identify the correct sensor. Need to find the time to do that. The diagram you sent is very helpful. I was also wondering if there is a diagram of the sensor locations.
    Thanks much!
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    I haven't seen a specific diagram of the sensor locations; but it sounds like there are up to four sensors on this model. One of them is upstream of the front catalytic converter; while the other two are downstream of the rear converter and resonator, screwed into the top of each of the separate pipes that feed the rear mufflers. In vehicles which have the manifold and converter combined into one unit, there is probably a front sensor screwed into each of the exhaust manifolds (so you would need to replace TWO sensors; unless the code identified which of them are bad). These sensors can probably be accessed from above the engine. Here's a photo of the original air/fuel ratio sensor on the 2007 motor: (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1606680) And here's a photo of the left side manifold/converter unit on the later model engines: (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2425722). There are also two additional converters in the exhaust pipe downstream of where the exhaust manifolds connect to that pipe. Here's a diagram of the complete exhaust system: (http://info.rockauto.com/Walker/Detail.html?91511-0480.jpg) The pipe with the additional converters in it is the one numbered "50451."
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    Hi Zaken, thanks for the info and diagrams. It looks like in the exhaust diagram the two manifolds #31332 would each have a sensor. I think Bank 1 sensor 1 would be the one closes to the fire wall which you can see from under the car. You can also see another one from under the car which is closer to the radiator. I am going to see if I can get into a dealership and ask them to point it out to me. Hopefully I can find a tech that would be nice enough to show me where the Bank 1 sensor 1 is for sure.
    Appreciate all your help and feel free to send anymore info on this.
    chuck
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Interestingly enough; in the exhaust diagram, #31332 is a flange gasket; used between the converter outlets and headpipes. The same part is shown at the rear of the car between the pipes and mufflers. I also initially thought it was the number of the manifold; until I looked more closely. But you are absolutely correct that the two manifolds (which are pictured right next to the #31332) each have a sensor. Since bank 1 has got to be the cylinder bank next to the firewall, and sensor 1 is the only sensor in bank 1; there is no possibility for confusion there. The other bank, next to the radiator, is called bank 2. I expect the sensor in that bank is called sensor 2. I would suggest that you have enough information at this point to justify confidence in this conclusion; and not waste time and possibly money by bothering the dealership techs.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 257
    Thanks Zaken, good catch on the part #'s. I see that now. This has been helpful.
    I'll keep you updated. Probabally won't get it changed before the weekend. Thanks again
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