Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
There are a number of differences, but I'll post my comments over in the new "2007 Camry - No Problems Here!" to leave this forum for those who might have trouble. See you over there....
1) I have a 2002 Camry w/48K miles. I just had my front brakes replaced for the first time. Dealer said rototrs needed replaced. My tire guy said they were fine. I'd get a second opinion.
2) I have not had my rear disk braked replaced yet.
How many miles on on your car?
*Although I have had great luck on the brakes...it does eat thru tires every 20K...or at least by 22K or so they are so horrible in the rain and snow I replace them.
XLE v6 - loaded. $29.4k+220(TTL)
Made in KY – Mfr date: Oct 6 2006
Positive impressions: very quiet, powerful engine, gorgeous Optitron dash, modern exterior design, ‘Smart’ key, Nav unit, roomy and already getting 31+ hwy but 18 cty.
However, I’m experiencing quite a bit of post-purchase cognitive dissonance.
First a note to prospective buyers: The Camry heated seats option a) heats bottoms only, not seat-backs, Also if you are considering the Nav option, check for center console light intensity around the Nav unit at night. I wish I had. And finally, transmission issues have NOT been resolved for everyone yet (see end of this post and check post # 2186 as an example).
Ok, this forum is for Camry ‘woes’ – here are mine:
Four bothersome woes:
Woe #7 – Interior trim fit, alignment, finish – disappointing for a car this expensive
Woe #6 - Driver side B-pillar rattle - in less than 30 miles. In my case, I think it comes from the adjustable seatbelt height mechanism in the b-pillar.
Woe #5 – A little more wind noise from A-pillar region than I expected @ 60 mph.
Woe #4 – On brake application to slow down say from 40 to 20 and on lifting foot, the car seems to continue braking for a few seconds - Experienced exactly the same behavior in another Camry test drive last month.
The next two, I am wondering how I am going to tolerate these:
Woe #3 - The center console blue-green plastic portion is much larger in Nav equipped cars. At night this portion is back-lit with a pretty blue, but bright light. It might not bother others, but it does me. There is a switch to dim this, but it simultaneously reduces the intensity of the speedometer light to fairly dim levels. Sigh! This going to take me a while to get used to it. My suggestion to Toyota: de-couple the adjustment of dash and console lights and provide two dimmer switches, one that also allows a complete console light turn off. (If such a switch already exist and I am unaware of - let me know)
Woe #2 - Uncomfortable driver seat (for me) - my tush hurt after a single 30 minute ride, I don’t look forward to hour long drives. To me it feels foamy/spongy like inexpensive living-room furniture. I’ve played with the seat adjustments until the cows came home – no joy.
I think foamy/cushy seats or mattresses feel deceptively comfortable for a while - but soon get less comfortable and eventually feel hard with uneven pressure spots/areas. Unfortunately, my test drives were all shorter than 20 minutes, and I ignored a number of ‘uncomfortable seat’ posts in this and other forums. Maybe the firmer SE seats would suit me better for long term support.
But the single reason I want my 30 grand back: PLEASE!
Woe #1 – V6 6Speed transmission: Two things so far. A) When cold, and on first starts, as I get rolling the transmission feels like it is in neutral or slipping and then it engages pretty hard – this shiftshock causes the car to lurch. If I had been parked behind a car I would have slammed into it. This has happened three times in the last two days; twice when starting forward and once in reverse as I eased backwards. After braking down to say 5 mph to coast through the turn and then as I gently re-apply the throttle, the engine races a little as if the transmission is in neutral or slipping and then a second or so later it engages with a perceptible jolt - sometimes soft and sometimes hard.
I’ve already told my dealer about the first incidence. Now today it happened twice again. I'll call them tomorrow again and see if they have solutions. I do not wan them ripping my new tranny apart. I’ve only got 200 miles on it. BRAND NEW CAR!!!!!!! AARGH!
I knew these issues plague both the 4 and 6cyl setups, but I had read that Toyota was reprogramming the system for cars built after early October. Guess what – transmission issues are still there. Folks, you cannot imagine the level of my frustration at the moment for buying knowing these problems still exist and for TMC selling me this car knowing that some may have problems - I hope my dealership will not feign ignorance about these issues as some other dealers have done according to the posts here.
What part of "no problems here" don't these people understand? Just because people say they are satisfied with a car despite its problems doesn't mean the problems don't exist.....
Thank you.
You are right on - Life is too short to be frustrated to death.
There are always options and solutions.
I'll just have to wait a bit for mine.
Have great day.
-----------------
Incidently, I used the cruise control the other day. Set it at 65mph and went up a decent grade hill - no misbehaviour on the part of the transmission and engine what so ever - just solid, quiet performance.
I feel very bad for you. I have not posted in a while, and didn't realize that there were any new V6 problems.
My 2007 SE V6 has the problem you described in #1 Woe. It was initially called an RPM Flare. I had my valve body replaced, then my transmission replaced. The problem is not nearly as pronounced, but still exits to some degree every time the car has been parked for 3 hours or more.
Toyota has had five attempts to repair my car. I have filed for arbitration and also want my money back. I considered accepting a new car, but after reading your post would rather get my money back.
I'll let everyone know how it turns out.
Can I just say ~Bad Move For Me and I Should of Stayed with the reliable Accord.
I have had my XLEV6 since May and the transmission slippage/flare between I think 3rd to 4th gear has existed everytime I drove the car for the first few minutes following startup and whenever it wanted to afterwards. Everytime I took it to the dealership(Checkered Flag Toyota in Virginia Beach), the problem would not show it self to the mechanic during the test drive and wanted me to leave the vehicle with them for further tests. I kept getting the "If the problem does not do it for us, we can not properly diagnose the problem. I kept telling the service advisor that I have been reading posts online regarding transmission issues and they kept telling me that they have never heard of them and I am the first they have heard. After timeless trips back and forth from the dealership for the same transmission issues, a mechanic finally came to my attention of a TSB regarding my problem and that replacement of a valve body and some other parts would remedy my problem.
Problem Solved?? NOT. I have an appointment with the dealership 10-31-06 to bring it in. Hopefully, something will be done. So far, I am not very happy with my first Toyota considering I have been driving Hondas for the last 15 years.
Do not depend on the dealerships, Honda or Toyota, to keep you updated.
I heard today that my arbitration date is set for Nov. 7th. I filed with the NCDS a few weeks ago after a new transmission did not fix the problem. Since the new transmission was installed, the dealership has not been able to duplicate the flare. Today my transmissions slipped so badly that the tires spun. I'm going to take it back next week and try to document the flare still exits before my hearing.
I purchased my car in mid May and my problems have been going on since mid June. My husband wanted me to buy a Maxima and my daughter wanted an Acura TL. I gave my 1999 Honda Accord EX to her, ignored both of them and opted for the new 2007 Camry SE. I was too proud to admit the car had a problem. I still love the car, but hate the transmission and am ready to admit defeat.
I hope the next fix works for you. There are several posters that now love their car after the new transmisson was installed.
How many miles do you have on your car? I have 4,400.
I have a one week old XLE V6 - whisper quiet - can hardly hear the engine idle when standing outside the car and virtually silent inside. It's one of the many things I really like about my car.
On the other hand, my transmission is giving me problems....
39 degrees F outside.
V6 6speed XLE ’07 Camry - one week old – 250 miles.
Transmission woes continuing .
I let the engine warm up one minute before engaging drive gear. Slowly moved out at 5 – 7 mph. 20 yards later transmission slips, engine raced up to 2k for a second or so and then transmission slammed hard into some low gear, jolting me and my passenger forward.
Drove to the highway about one mile away. Pressed moderately on the accelerator to merge. Car started to pick up speed and then pretty soon it is obvious it was not up shifting to 5th or 6th gear. In ten seconds I am doing 55 @ 4000+rpm and it did not drop the rpms. Indicating to me the up shifting is not occurring. Even at 60mph, rpm still over 4000+ Tried to use Triptronic to get it to up-shift, the numbers changed in the dash but rpms unchanged – no luck. I lift my foot of the throttle and I could feel engine-braking slowing the car indicating that the tranny is still locked in some mid/lower gear. Finally, 30 seconds later (I’m guessing) the car up-shifted and the rpms settled down to around 2000+ where I expected it to be all along. Basically, the transmission seemed stuck in the middle gears.
5 minutes later I got off the highway and did about 10 minutes of stop-and-go city driving. I pulled into my parking area. I put gear in reverse, pressed gas pedal – the engine revved a bit, the car barely moved and then the reverse gear engaged with a hard ‘thud’.
Called Toyota dealership – they can’t take the car until Monday, I have to live with problems for at least three more days. Apparently they will test drive and try to ‘duplicate’ this. If they find something they have to call their regional Toyota headquarters for a fix authorization/recommendation that may include “replacing the transmission” as a whole. Great! (can you detect my sarcasm?)
Tomorrow morning I am going to video tape this actual behavior as proof for the dealer's service dept.
I’m starting to think this transmission setup is a cold–blooded beast – cranky when cold. :sick:
Question for those in-the-know: any news of a software fix for the 6cyl 6speed auto transmission yet?
10/25/2006 - 2007 model year Camry vehicles (North American Produced).
Some 2007 model year Camry vehicles may exhibit a ticking type noise from the rear suspension area when driving on uneven road surfaces. Use the following instructions to repair the noise.
BO020-06 REAR SEAT BACK COVER WRINKLED APPEARANCE
10/25/2006 - 2007 model year Camry SE vehicles produced BEFORE the Production Change Effective VINs shown
Some customers may experience a wrinkled appearance on the rear seat back cover on Camry SE vehicles due to a poor fit of the seat cover. The rear seat back cover has been modified to improve its wrinkled appearance.
NV009-06 UPPER/LOWER WINDSHIELD TICK NOISE
9/18/2006 - 2003 – 2007 model year Toyota vehicles. 2004 – 2007 model year Scion vehicles.
If a creak, tick, or rattle noise is heard at the top or bottom of the windshield, the source of the noise may be the two windshield stoppers bonded to the top of the windshield or the windshield retainers bonded to the lower edge of the windshield. This bulletin provides the recommended repair procedure to eliminate these types of noises from the windshield area.
NOTE: Some vehicles have both stoppers and retainers while others may only have stoppers at the top of the windshield. Use the chart in this bulletin to determine the location of the windshield holding devices.
__________________
After the TSB fix, they told me everything works great. I took it home and it did it once but I kept thinking that maybe it needs some "break-in" time. After a week of driving and a short weekend trip out of town, the problem got worse. I would like to hear of your results/options following your hearing. I too love my car but it erks me to no tomorrow having this transmission problem with no solution to look forward to.
#7. When I first bought the car I expected (but did not get) exceptional fit/alignment from Toyota. But honestly, one week later, I realize I was nit-picking at small details I would never notice past the first week anyway.
#6. After adjusting the seatbelt shoulder height adjustment mechanism at the b-pillar – no squeaks – no rattles – no nothing in the cabin for the last 300 miles.
#5. A-pillar wind noise – I’m no longer sure if this is A-pillar noise. I am thinking now it is more tire noise than anything else. I would like something even quieter than the Michelin MXV4-S8 it came with.
#4. I don’t like the car to use ‘engine braking’ to continue to decelerate the car for a couple of seconds after I have lifted my foot off the brake and not intentionally shifted to a lower gear. Never experienced this in my 30+ years of driving dozens of cars and brands, including the 20 I test drove before I bought the Camry. Still, maybe this is some new fangled programmed behavior for safety’s sake.
#3. The blue console back-light is really not a woe, but it is an irritant to me. I’m going to create a cut-out mask or something to drape over the lit area at night – though I hope Toyota thinks about my suggestion for a separate dimmer switch for it.
#2. The spongy seats that bothered me so much at first – well it turns out that I’m starting to get used to them. I’ve had firm car seats for the last 11 years; and I still prefer them, but I am starting to think these cushy ones will be fine too. They don’t hurt any more, though I have not been on a two hour drive yet.
This car has really grown on me and I look forward to drive it everyday, I am beginning to understand why this is such a popular car. But I also look forward to a 'fix' for the transmission problem.
Therefore I will no longer subject this forum to my personal peeves/preferences. I will restrict all future posts/updates to Woe #1 and other 'serious' problems if any arise.
Wishing you all a pleasant day.
Thanks in advance,
Rob
Toyota Website Link
That's why almost all vehicles of asian origin (Denso) have a common climate control flaw that tends to have/let the interior of the windshield fog over during the winter months, some rather quickly and/or suddenly. While those of european origin (Bosch) share a common flaw in that the outside of the windshield tends to fog over on a hot and humid summer day.
The same can be said of fog lights, asian cars cannot turn on fog lights separate from low beams but almost all european cars can.
European designs win out on the safety issue in both cases.
I've also experienced a red/brownish residue coming from the drain holes in the doors, hood etc; that is leaving a stain on the paint. This residue is tough to get off..if you're lucky. Look forward to your reply.
Thanks,
Ron
drjames, who in the world is "Toyota South" and do you have a link to their "statement"?
And supposedly (according to dearlership) the build/assembly started on Oct 2.
Here is a thought: Even thought my car was assembled in October, what if the transmission was built prior to October, that is, it was from older stock.
Anyway to confirm this?
At ~40k miles my 2001 AWD RX300's ATF was looking/smelled burned and appeared to be contaminated. I changed it out twice, 4 qts first time and 5 the second, after I discovered the second ATF drain plug in the diff'l case.
Am now at ~60K miles and the ATF still looks mostly pristine.
I became suspicious of the possibility of the VC heating to operational levels so I checked the condition of the gearcase oil in the transfer case and it looked okay, clear.
I have always checked the ATF fill/condition at each DIY oil change and I don't remember taking note of any ATF problems/indications prior to the 40k mark.
I'm beginning to wonder if I should revise my theory of the proposed sequence of events that led to all of these early transaxle failures and then engine/transaxle downshift delay/hesitation issues problems.
Suppose...
In about 99 Toyota and Lexus started using the FULL lift-throttle upshift sequence in order to A), improve FE, , prevent engine compression braking from interfering with ABS activity, C), reduce the potential for loss of
directional control due to engine compression braking, and D), any or all of the above.
Apparently the ATF oil pressure pump in these earlier models did not have the capacity to provide enough pressure/flow for two gear changes in quick succession so
these transaxles begin to fail due to the unexpected rate of clutch frictional surface wear from slippage.
So the ATF oil pressure pump in the later models (2000, 2001 RX300??) had more pumping capacity.
The problem that arises (arose?) from that fix is the fact that providing this extra volume/flow pump capacity with the engine at idle meant bypassing HUGE volumes of pressurized ATF at high engine RPM even when no volume, or very little volume, at all was/is required.
Not only HIGHLY INEFFICIENT, but generates lots, TONS, of extra heat in the process. (Was the trailer towing package, including external ATF cooling heat exchanger, in my 2001 REALLY an option?)
Overheated ATF resulting in the requirement that (thoroughly BOILED) ATF be changed out on a 15,000 mile schedule.
So by 2004, the RX330, the lower capacity ATF pump was back in use and DBW was being used to delay engine torque development until the required downshift was completed. Note that the VC was also dropped for the entire
RX330 run.
Now I know why Ford has just announced they are using a variable displacement ATF pump in the new (FWD) Ford Edge "for improved transaxle operational efficiency".
That would allow them to have HIGH volume/displacement capacity when gearshifts are commanded at low engine RPM, and proportionately lower volume/displacement depending on engine RPM at other gearshift times. And only enough volume to overcome system leakage and provide computing power
(valve body) otherwise.
Highly efficient and no requirement to use DBW to delay the onset of engine torque...
Do you suppose Toyota is listening...??
Or given that the engine "flare" issue seems to have more recently come about has Toyota already begun to use a variable displacement ATF pump but the firmware is not yet been quite correctly "tuned" toward having enough volume, pumping capacity, at all the "correct" times.
Does anyone have co-existence of the 3-4 shift engine flare problem and the engine/transaxle downshift delay/hesitation problem?
The 6 speed behavior in the Camry V6/ES, likely also computer related, seems like it might have minimization of torque steer on 'its' mind. A similar 'gear slipping' approach now adopted by Honda/Acura on their high power V6s. The reported drivetrain 'clunk' on full reengagement, and the relationships to outside temperature should, however, not be.
Have a suspicion that it may not be possible to drive any of these cars smoothly without some 'retraining' on all our parts - as ridiculous as that sounds. It does seem that the majority of drivers out there do seem to adjust to it quite well, not experiencing any hesitation issues, when the laws of mass production would seem to argue otherwise.
Heavy reapplication....
Like this...??
Higher octane allows the engine to operate in a Taller gear ratio at a low(er) RPM without "lugging", knock/ping.
So with a higher octane when you initially re-apply pressure to the gas pedal shortly after/during the lift-throttle upshift the transaxle may (more often) remain, briefly, in the "taller" gear ratio since the ECU "knows" that will not result in a seriously detrimental level of Knock/Ping. The ECU would therefore allow the DBW system to immediately begin raising engine RPM, generating additional drive torque, as a result of the new, re-applied, gas pedal pressure.
So now the engine RPM is no longer at idle and should you continue to increase the pressure on the gas pedal such that a downshift is required to keep the engine in a proper, non-lugging, operating range there is now much more likelihood that there will be be enough ATF pump pressure/flow volume to accommodate the upcoming downshift.
The above might also be an indication that a fairly s..l...o....w re-application of pressure to the gas pedal after a FULL lift-throttle event might often alleviate the downshift delay/hesitation regardless of octane. Whereas a quick/fast/heavy re-application would almost always result in a serious level of knock/ping absent an immediate downshift.
Counter-intuitive, huh..??
Go SLOW, to GO QUICKLY...!!
Okay...??
The above might also be an indication that a fairly s..l...o....w re-application of pressure to the gas pedal after a FULL lift-throttle event might often alleviate the downshift delay/hesitation
This is exactly what I've learned to do and for me, at least, it does work - it has been literally months since I've experienced anything approaching a 'hesitant' tranny! And it has also become quite 2nd nature as well - don't even have to think about it anymore.
So it's not the first time for sure, but it does have its helpful side for me. The context which resonates the most when this theory has been raised before is that the irregular behaviors can actually be induced by manipulating the throttle in certain ways.