Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I'm just saying the guy is reporting his experiences with the 07 Camry and to tell him that he's wrong makes no sense; he has experienced what he has experienced. He's also in a way better position that any of us are to diagnose whether any individual issue that he has seen is indeed a hardware or a software problem.
Now for the challange
I would love to here from anyone who has test driven,confifmed a trans problem,then removed the trans and disassembled it and fornd a internal deffect or problem with a toyota camry or avalon 2006 to 2007.
You've made your point. If you can help the people here who are having trouble, we very much welcome that. As I said in my email to you, some may want to argue and the best thing to do is refrain from making personal comments.
If you had purchased a brand new automobile that was performing badly, you'd want to argue also. Maybe you could put yourself in the place of some of these folks and just try to help - we'd really appreciate that.
To all: there is nothing to be gained by getting up in people's faces, no matter what side of this issue you find yourself on.
The purpose of this discussion is to help people who are having difficulties with their 07 Camry. If you are not having difficulty with yours, and if you can't help those who are, please find another discussion for your concerns.
That's part of the problem....Once an upshift has been commanded by the engine/transaxle ECU, due to the mechanical design of the transaxle itself, it CAN NOT be aborted, the transaxle MUST complete the upshift and only then can/will the ECU issue the downshift "command".
And I'm not so sure any or all transaxle gear change sequence isn't strictly a "timed" function, or at least partially so. No actual "shift completed" feedback, insofar as the ECU issuing subsequent transaxle activities.
If you happen to be cruising alone at a relatively constant speed and then suddenly and rapidly depress the gas pedal then the transaxle will INSTANLY downshift and you'll be on your RAPIDLY ACCELERATING way.
It's only when you "dither" the gas pedal, say as you slow (lift-throttle, upshift) watching for an opening and then shortly thereafer, QUICKLY, attempt to accelerate to match speed with and merge into that upcoming opening in speeding traffic, that the downshift delay will occur. And the more times you "dither" the gas pedal, off and on, the worse will likely be the delay.
When I first read 650spx's post #3799 I was just as offended as apparently were many others. First, let me say that I have been just as guilty as 650spx in this regard, on numerous occassions, too many to mention.
Oftentimes our own knowledge, stuff we know in our own minds to be factual, gets in our way when we write these posts. I know what I want to say but the stuff, background, knowledge gets in the way. My mind fills in the "blanks" for me as I compose a post.
"95% of the ones I see fail is from customer abuse."
I now, in retrospect, have absolutely NO doubt that what 650spx was trying to say in the above sentence was that 95% of the transmissions that require mechanical repair is from customer abuse.
But absent knowing what was in 650spx's mind it can only be read as an insult to those experiencing "failures" (lag, flare, etc) through absolutely no fault, abuse, of their own.
"But it takes a long time"
From '98 to '08..?
Yes, it takes a long time to think up a fix, most especially if you are raised in a "heads-down" cultural environment, taught to NEVER think nor act "out of the box", but the time required for composing the firmware to implement that fix should be measured in hours.
"nevermind that it must pass through the government"
regretably IMMHO, but no.
The results, operational results, pertaining only to FE and emissions must past muster by our government, but I know of no instance wherein the actual firmware code must be submitted for government oversight.
Not that anyone within our government would comprehend the code anyway.
I first noticed odd shifting "symptoms" in my 2000 AWD RX300. When I upgraded to the '01 model I noticed the symptom was carried over. During coastdowns below 10 MPG the RX occasionally felt as if I had been bumped lightly from behind. And during coastdowns at 40-30 MPH, even with braking, it felt as if the RX surged forward, sort of a "slingshot" effect.
Given my prejudice against FWD I immediately assumed the upshifting was being done in order to prevent loss of directional control due to engine compression braking.
Then I happen to run across an engineering white paper by Sierra Research in CA and then I had to concede that the new shift pattern might have more, or as much, to do with improving FE by elongating coastdown distances as safety improvement. Having purchased a 2003 Prius at about the same time definitely influenced my thoughts about FE. The Prius ALWAYS uses regenerative braking during coastdown periods.
But.
Then I discovered the US patent issued to Ford regarding techniques they seemingly developed for the Escape and Mariner Hybrids, both "base" FWD vehicles.
One of the patented techniques involves substantially reducing the level of regenerative braking if the OAT declines to near, at, or below freezing. The second involves disabling regenerative braking the INSTANT ABS activates with actual braking application.
Anyone need an explanation as to why these two patented techniques fully convinced me that most FWD vehicles were patently UNSAFE on adverse roadbed conditions? Or why I am now fully convinced that the safety issue is really the only, or primary, reason Toyota has adopted the new lift-throttle coastdown upshift pattern for the entire FWD and front torque biased fleet?
I have seen other posts on this site where fuel starvation has been mentioned with the 4 cyl, so I'm not sure why Toyota is making this claim.
P.S., the engine responds fine under same conditions noted above when outside temp 70F and below.
Have you looked at the torque vs RPM curve for your I4?
If the engine/transaxle system is properly designed then certainly in 5th gear at 65 MPH you will be operating right on the cusp between engine lugging and just barely having enough engine torque to move the car forward at that speed.
Drive up an incline or HOT climate and 5th gear at 65 MPH will be putting you even closer to engine lugging.
It does not seem at all unusual to me that an I4 will not accelerate rapidly/quickly in those conditions given that the I4 engine will be TUNED more for FE than performance.
The engine control ECU absolutely MUST keep the engine from operating in the low RPM "lugging" zone where knock/ping will be prevalent and severe damage to the engine might result. Maybe the ECU, via DBW throttle control, is simply starving the engine of A/F mixture as a way to tell you that you need to downshift.
Drive someone's I4 with an automatic and see if it doesn't ALWAYS downshift in the conditions you describe.
And keep in mind that the only other way for the ECU to prevent engine damage from knock/ping in those conditions is to FLOOD the engine with fuel, increase the A/F mixture quite a bit above optimal.
And FE goes down the tube.
You have a manual transaxle for a very good reason(***), make use of it!
*** Improved, much better FE vs an automatic.
I rather doubt that any of the problems, hesitation, flare, etc, being discussed concerning the Toyota or Lexus automatic transaxle shift pattern will/could carry over to any engine and a manual transaxle.
YOU have a CLUTCH that can be used to prevent engine compression braking and/or extend coasting distances to improve FE.
"You" can go ahead and drop the transaxle into 1st gear LONG before you come to a full stop during coastdown, clutch still disengaged afterward or no.
"You" can instantly depress the clutch pedal if there is even a slight hint of skidding of the front wheels due to engine compression braking on a slippery roadbed.
"You" can prevent engine compression braking from interfering with the functionality of the anti-lock braking system by simply depressing the clutch pedal.
In 5th gear @ 65 MPH, the tach says I'm turning just under 2500 RPM, in 4th gear, I'm around 3000 rpm. It seems extreme to me to have to drop 2 gears to achieve any kind of acceleration only when temperatures are over 90F. It is also interesting to note that the owners manual (p.169) states "for best compromise between fuel economy and performance" downshifting from 5th to 4th should occur at 45 MPH, 4th to 3rd at 40 MPH. The owner's manual also states that if I go below 45 MPH in 5th or 40 MPH in 4th, the possibility of lugging and pinging occurs at these points. Obviously, I am WELL above these shift points.
And yes I did choose the manual for more control over conditions. And I am QUITE pleased with the performance of the I4 when it is "on". I guess if I did not live in the hot northeast driving exclusively highways, this would not be a problem.
and DO NOT TOUCH THE WIRE OR BULB WITH ANYTHING. Also do not brush the TB hold it open with your finger spray it down lightley and wipe it down with a clean cloth. Then start the car and let it run for 10 minutes then take it for a normal 10 mile drive. After you let it cool retest and see if it helps.
In some cases the car may not start after doing this the ecm may have to be reset you can try disconnecting the postive and negative battery cables and holding them together for 30 minutes to clear the memory and try to restart. If this dose not work it will need to be reset at a toyota dealer about $100.00 dollers.
Try this repair at your own risk! Neather I or toyota recomed anyone untrained try to preform the above repair on a vechile!
Thanks for the instructions, but at this point, this car is barely a year old and still under warranty. I am not going to do anything that Toyota could say voids the warranty. I will bring your comments to the dealer service manager, but I predict his standard response will be... " I never heard of doing such a thing".
I found a way to deal with the issues in my 07 LE V-6.
I LET MY WIFE DRIVE IT and I driver her CR-V :P
Seriously, its been over a month since I drove it. I could probably deal with some tranny issues by just using the manumatic but the seat discomfort is the big deal breaker for me. I might get in it today and take it to work, its been 6 weeks.
FWD or front biased AWD vehicles are becoming more and more rare because most drivers today have NO a clue how to drive one safely in adverse roadbed conditions.
FWD with automatic transaxles are proving to be BAD enough from a safety standpoint.
You can downshift a RWD fairly safely in comparison since even if engine compression braking happens to be high enough to LOCK the drive wheels you still have stearing capability to help get you out of trouble.
With FWD....NOT!
Or maybe the FWD manufacturers have by now killed off most, or even all, of the owners that might consider a manual transaxle.
One of the new more sensible RWD Pontiacs, no doubt.
As I am still a dissatisfied customer, could you help me to again become a loyal and supportive fan of Toyota, USA?
My VIN: 4T1BE46K07U102536 Mfg Lexington, KY in 12/06. Thanks in advance.
Hasn't Toyota finally admitted that there is a problem and issued a TSB to fix the transmission already as reported by some members here? Have you complained to the Toyota dealership directly about the problems?
I feel bad that you have to plead for help but nobody from Toyota seems to be giving you a helping hand.
Loyalty to an automobile manufacturer should be a two way affair, not just one way.
Anyone with a similar problem or known about such issues , please share your experiences ?
Has ANYONE had or heard of this problem?
I was wondering how many attempt did the dealership do to fix the Trans.
You need three attempts.
I am trying to get a dealership to duplicate my flare problem which is happening everyday on my car. It just dosen't happen when the dealership has my car. Go figure? Who would you believe? I also had my flrare problem on video which they saw.
Anyhow, I would love to get together with other owners with this issue and get Toyota to do something. I believe this is a big injustice.
I'm not sure how to get you info. to contact me though I think there is a way to check profiles. If you are familar with that feel free to let me contact you?
Keep in touch, chuck
I am sorry to hear about the issues with your V6 XLE Camry. I also own a 2007 V6 Camry, purchased in January 2007. The vehicle presently has 13,600 miles on it, and I DO NOT have the transmission issues that I see posted on these boards. That DOES NOT mean that I do not believe that there is an issue with this vehicle!(Something is wrong with some of these vehicles!)
Your "arbitration hearing" was NOT a "fact finding meeting," nor was it designed to bring about a solution to the problem. It was designed to dump all the responsibility on YOU, the owner of the vehicle. Personally, I think you were treated very poorly by both the dealership, and the Toyota corporation. That makes me think about what I am going to do in 2010, in terms of a replacement vehicle.
If was treated in this fashion, I would go to one of the magnetic plastic sign companies, and have a sign made describing the problems with the vehicle, and ride around with that sign in place on the vehicle. (EXAMPLE: ----"This vehicle has transmission problems, ---purchase from: XYZ dealer. Toyota does not care! Ask me about this issue!")--I would also have a supply of "printed hand outs" that describe the entire issue with this vehicle, so when people ask me about the problems, I could simply give them a copy of the "hand out"! (You might attract some "media attention"! Then watch Toyota and the Dealer "run for cover"!) If "Toyota" wanted to solve this issue, they would put someone on this board to answer the questions of the owners that have this problem! They will loose this fight, the same way that they lost the "sludge fight," and in the process, their market share will decrease! I guess that is what they want! (This will make the American manufacturers VERY happy!)
Toyota is missing the boat on this problem by dumping the issue back on the owner. They are just recovering from the "sludge issue," and now they are taking the same position with the transmission issue. I would give them the advertisement that they deserve.
Just my opinion. Best regards. ----- Dwayne :shades: :confuse:
He made up a sign indicating the problems he was having so all poetential customers could see it and on a week-end walked back and forth on the side walk in front of the company.
Immediately they sent out a repair team to his home and fixed all the problems.
Sometimes you just gotta do what a man/woman has gotta do.
I had the tranny replaced in my 2007 v6 XLE due to a 1000RPM shift flare and it started flaring again last week. I figured it would be better to take the financial loss than to get completely frustrated and anxious by trying to fight Toyota legally. Yah, call me a wimp, but we all have to pick our battles (and this isn't one of them). However, if some of you are in Northern/Central California, I would be willing to meet with you before I trade this thing in....but it may not be very far away.
Please keep us posted as to how this all works out.
1. Toyota has tried to fix a non-safety issue 4 or more times to no avail.
2. Your car is out of commission for a total of 30 days or more (doesn't even have to be consecutive days).
3. Toyota has tried to fix a safety issue 2 or more times to no avail.
If you do pursue the Lemon Law, make sure you can prove (with a paper trail) that your car really was out of commission for that period of time...unfortunately, they aren't going to take you word for it.
I do not pay attention to the ASL feature of the radio, as I am always adjusting the sound with the controls on the steering wheel. I will say, that the sound quality of the radio leaves much to be desired. It is better than the 2003 Accord, but it is something that I would want to change in my next vehicle. I listen to alot of "talk radio," and when I listen to music, the sould quality is poor. I would have expected that the "top of the line Camry" would have a better sound system. I also think that the quality of the leather seats could be improved. They are cheap!
I tend to put alot of mileage on my vehciles in a short amount of time. By January 2008 I will probably have at least 22,000 miles on this Camry if not 25,000 miles. (The vehicle will be only one year old.) This translates into having somewhere between 66,000 and 75,000 in a three year period. While I have a "top of the line Toyota Extended Warranty" on this vehicle for 100,000 miles, the best time to trade would be before the vehicle reaches 60,000 miles and three years. This means that I will be looking for a replacement vehicle sometime during the third year of ownership. Now having made this statement, and knowing the problems that people are having with other Camry vehicles, do I go back to my dealer who gives "outstanding service" and take a "BIG CHANCE" and purchase another Camry, or do I "order" a Chevrolet or a Buick or a Ford from the factory, with all the accessories and the trim package that I want in a vehicle? (I did not buy American when I purchase the Camry, because I could not find a vehicle with the required "trim package that I wanted in stock"!)
When you add into the purchase process this "transmission issues," and the lack of sensitivity on the part of Toyota to the problems of the consumer, maybe it is worth taking the gamble to order an American vehicle from the factory. (I would want a statement added to the purchase agreement, stating that I could refuse delivery if something was not acceptable on the "ordered vehicle" at the time of delivery).
The main reason why I like this vehicle is the comfort of the seats. The Accord was a quality vehicle, but the front bucket seats were VERY UNCOMFORTABLE, and on a long road trip my back would be in spasm!
At this point in time, I still have some mileage to go till I have to make a decision. AS I have stated in other postings, I might also have the problem, but my style of driving might be covering up this issue. I tend to drive at a very steady posted speed in the right lane. I leave a "Big Distance" between myself and the vehcile in front of me, and I slow down and accelerate slowly. When I do pass another vehicle, I press down on the accelerator slowly, (the trasmission does down shift), and upon completing the passing process, I slowly release the pressure on the accelerator and return to the cursing speed. I DO NOT like to use cruise control! I want to drive my own vehicle. I also shift my trasmission into "neutral" at a STOP LIGHT when people are crossing in front of my vehicle. I DO NOT trust "computer controlled vehicles". I would rather be safe than sorry! ----- SO, it is very possible that my "driving style" has covered up the trasmission issue, and as such, I do not experience the problem that is posted on this site. That does not mean that the problem does not exist!
Best regards to all. ------ Dwayne :shades: :confuse:
until then, why not upload your video to edmunds?
"savings... selection... so what are you waiting for"???
maybe there is a reason there are "lots on the lot".