Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Dodge Ram - III

2456

Comments

  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    johnc12,

    You may want to ask a tech to come on a test drive with you, and duplicate the conditions for them. You may even wish to do this at a different dealer or transmission shop for a second opinion. From what you have described, it definitely sounds like a TC issue.


    cattle1,

    Sounds like you found a good truck for your purpose. The only two suspect areas are the steering and transmission. Have them thoroughly inpected for corrosion, excess wear, and leaks. If you and a trustworthy service center are satisfied, the body, chassis, axles, and engine will hang in there for another 100K miles without too much attention other than regular maintenance.

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • redbirdredbird Posts: 2
    To Blong1,

    I too have a bounce at around 48mph. I didn't have it at first with my factory tires. But it came on strong with my winter tires I put on. I posted a message about this around December, and I got no responses on it. I went through 12 different tires, all with a certain amount of bounce. All configurations had been balanced and rechecked (my tire guys spent a lot of extra effort on this). The only thing my dealer has said is that they will check a few things out when I bring it in (like wheel balance), but they are being clueless beyond that. I have put the summer tires back on and now I have a slight bounce with those too. I am slightly perturbed by this. When you spend over 30k for a vehicle, you definetly want a better response to a problem like this. I bought a 2500 SB SLT+ with the 5.9 engine and 3.54 rear end LT265 tires.

    My own feelings on this are....It is not totally the tires. It is not the transmission. I have a feeling it has a lot to do with the cheap shocks they put in these rigs. I asked them about the shocks (as mine are seeping from the top already) and they said they will "look at them". I believe since they are seeping I will make them put on new ones and see how that works out.

    Does anyone know if I can get MOPAR gas shocks at the dealer?
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    redbird,

    I would strongly recommend Monroe Gas-Magnums (full-time on road use) or Rancho RS9000 (even limited off-road) over the factory shocks.

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • I had the EXACT same problem with my 99 Dodge Ram Cummins. I took it into my local Dodge dealer and took the mechanic for a ride. He thought that it was the sensor in the torque converter so they "fixed" it. Well it didn't take long to figure out that it wasn't fixed. While it was in I also had the fuel filter changed

    A few days later I decided to change the oil and the front brake pads. While I was doing that I realized that I had an air filter that a friend of mine had given me, so I figured that I would change it. The metering device on the air cleaner did not indicate that the filter was used up, but the foam was quite black and dirty. The problem with the bouncing went away. It has been almost two weeks and I haven't had a problem.

    On the same day I also had my tires switched back to the original set that I took off last fall, but as I recall the problem still existed on the way home from the tire shop.

    Try changing the filter and see what happens. Let me know if the problem is fixed.
  • markcordmarkcord Posts: 113
    Another good choice for shocks would be the Edelbrock IAS. These adjust automatically unlike the RS9000s. Two things you just can't seem to get from the factory are good tires and good shocks.
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    I'm sure you can get them at your dealer. Should cost only a few bucks.
  • warfishwarfish Posts: 117
    I've been asking this question on several different posts, so if it sounds like I'm repeating myself, that's why.
    I have a '01 2500 diesel Quad Cab SLT SB with auto and 3.54 gear. My friends with Cummins Dodges tell me I should be able to tow my 30 ft 5th wheel in OD with no problems, but I find I can't do it without constant shifting in and out of OD. Running at 65 with OD off is a noisy pain, and the mileage sucks at 9.5 mpg. Am I being led down the garden path by these people who say they can do it or do I have a problem with my truck?
    Also, has anyone had any experiences with air deflectors when towing 5th wheels? I'm considering going that route to make the tow easier and increase my fuel mileage.
  • RichinKsRichinKs Posts: 416
    Just got back from my first outing pulling my 8000 lb fifth wheel. I have 2001 V10 auto and 4.10. Since we both have auto and have the same problem I thought I'd post. Many told me I could pull in OD, thats why I got the 4.10. A friend with the 4.10 diesel auto 99 pulls in OD on the flat and slight grades. Only goes to 3rd when steep. Mine will not stay in 4th. In fact after cresting the top of a hill going down hill it still will not shift to OD. I must let up on the throttle completely. This cann't be right. I'm calling the dealer in the morning. And the 8 - 8.5 many get towing with the v10 is only a dream for me. But I do get mileage I expected solo.
  • johnc12johnc12 Posts: 8
    Kcram
    Just a note to say I think my tranny woes are over. Took your advice and went to a different dealer and road test. It acted up with them on the road test . They dropped the pan and found metal in it. Funny the other dealer who supposedly did a service 6 months prior didnt see it ? Any way 10 days later and a basicly rebuilt tranny and it works better than new!Now to decide whether to take Cummins up on the free offer to remove E-brake or not?I pull a 5W. Or, maybe up grade to a 3 pedal ? Well,again thanks for your help !!
    johnc12
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    johnc12,

    Glad I helped some. As far as the E-brake, I have no experience with it, but before you yank it, talk to the Cummins techs about the way you drive, what you tow, and how you use the E-brake. They may be able to give you some tips on how to make it work better for you if you really want it.

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • johnc12johnc12 Posts: 8
    Kcram
    Do you know whether or not the Ram QC 2500 4x4 is going to get 4 wheel disc soon ? And,were can I get towing specs. with the HO diesel ?
    Thanks !
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    The 2500 and 3500 will both get 4 wheel discs and 4 wheel ABS standard this fall (as "2001 1/2" models).

    As for towing, the GCWR with the Cummins is now 20,000 on all 2500s and 3500s, regardless of transmission or axle ratio. This results in trailer weights ranging from 14,150 on a 2500 regular cab 4x2 to 13,000 for a 3500 Quad 4x4.

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    by the way, the Camper Package is required to get the 20,000 GCWR.

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • warfishwarfish Posts: 117
    I could get my '01 2500 Cummins auto with 3.54 to tow my 8500 lb fifth wheel at 65 on level ground and stop hunting in and out of OD. DC says it's working right but I know lots of people with the same setup as mine who tow heavier trailers with no problems. I talked to a guy today who specializes in Dodge Cummins trucks. He gave me several reasons why it may be doing this but warned me that if he can't make it fail the dealer will make me pay even though it's under warrenty (1400 miles).
    He also said the 2001 Cummins has more pollution controls that may limit it's performance.
  • dodgedavedodgedave Posts: 1
    I just bought a used 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 with the Cummins engine and an automatic transmission. It was new as of 10/98 and has 39,000 miles on it. It was used to pull a goose neck trailer. I plan to use it to pull my 28' fifth wheeler.

    A 4 year, 40,000 mile extended warranty would cost $1,000 ($50 Deduct). This is a Daimler Chrysler warranty and I don't expect to exceed the 48,000 miles at all. Is there a better price for this elsewhere??

    Is this a problematic tranny? I understand it costs 1500 to $2000 to rebuild this tranny. The warranty sounds like a bargin if the tranny is going to go out.

    Your comments were most welcomed as I need to decide in the next few days whether to purchase it or not.

    Dave in Pierre, SD
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    dodgedave,

    You probably should invest in the extended warranty for the transmission, especially since the vehicle has towed in the past. As for price, you can shop around to any Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep dealer - all are authorized to sell you the factory plan, and some go out of their way to NOT sell the plan at list price.

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • biknmikebiknmike Posts: 27
    A friend of mine ordered a 1500 4x4 Off Road package and just found out that it was on restriction for the bright metallic silver paint and the leather seats.
    kcram,
    Can you offer any details about this and any possible time frame for a release of the restriction?
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    biknmike,

    Only restriction I can find is for the paint, and that was scheduled to be lifted this past Monday (7/24). It is indeed possible that the leather seats or one or more of the components of the Off Road package could be delayed by the suppliers involved.

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • ginsu1ginsu1 Posts: 5
    I just bought a '01 1500QC 5.9 and I'm not so happy with the performance. I've seen some owner using K&N filters, Flowmaster mufflers and Mopar Ignition.
    Do those things really improve the performance?
    What's the exact specifications of those parts?
    And what about prices?

    Thanks for your help, guys!

    PS- Like every Ram owner I also have problems with rough idle. And my truck has less than 100 miles!
  • 2 weeks ago I bought a 2001 Quad 2500 with auto. 6 miles on it when I drove it home from the dealers. Took the check from the bank back to the dealers the following day. Noticed it was pulling to the right on the steering. Had to keep the steering wheel at about 10:00 position to keep the truck going straight. So I talked with the sales manager, thinking that it just needed a front end alignment. An appointment was a made a few days later. After they worked on the Truck for a few hours they said the front end alignment was right on from the factory, but when they drove it they too had right pull. So they offered me a ride home and said that they would continue to trouble shoot it. I told them that I would wait. 3-4 hr later they told me that they found the right caliphers on the front brake to be out of spec. That they were bad from the factory. They had ordered parts, but it would take about 3 working days to get them in. The 2001 had different parts and the local parts houses did not have any in stock, new parts were coming directly from the factory. (this was odd, thought the 2000 and 2001 were identical??) So about week later they schedule me for another appointment, a week later still... ahhh! Worring about driving this way, they tell me not to worry...So today after they have had my truck in for a day and 1/2 they tell me that replacment of the caliphers did not fix the problem. They are continuing to trouble shoot it, but have no idea yet. They talked with factory, they said no steering problems with the 2001,everything from previous models have been fixed. They left the dealership with the thought that the problem did not exist? But the mechanic working on the truck was concerned and agreed something is diffently wrong. So...I have heard that Dodge Ram has had front steering problems, especially pulling to the right. Can anyone give me information or ideas. Stongly considering asking the dealer to take the truck back and move on......thanks for all responses in advance
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    many things. Take your truck to a reputable non-dealer affiliated alignment shop that you trust and ask them to check everything out. I had a similar problem with my 99 quad 4x4. Took it to dealer because it was pulling left. They checked alignment and it still pulled left. They then swapped the front wheels/tires and then it pulled right. Their explanation was that one of the tires was a larger diameter than the other causing the truck to pull. When I got home I swapped the tires again myself and the truck pulled the other direction. 'Nuff said, could be your tires.
  • RichinKsRichinKs Posts: 416
    My 2001 4x4 2500 pulled to the right. The dealer said the axle was bent and they didn't have the equipment to fix it so they paid for me to take it to a front end shop. I don't remember the technical jargon but they said the axle was not bent but the whole assembly was to far farward on the left side. They fixed it and it drives fine.

    Rich
  • warfishwarfish Posts: 117
    When I ordered my 2001 2500 QC 4x2 diesel auto with 3.54 in March, all 4 dealers I talked to told me I would need the camper special suspension to tow a fifth wheel. I took their advise and ordered it and have been sorry ever since. Even with the trailer hooked up with 1900 lbs of pin weight, it still sat higher in the back. Of course it rode like it had no springs at all with no load. Last week I took it to a spring shop that I know has a very good reputation and had the rear end softened and had the spacer taken out to lower it a bit. They re-arched the helper springs so they are only being used when it's actually loaded. Between that and taking off the 265 tires and going to 245s the truck is just great now. It rides better than my '98 1500 did unloaded, and still sits level with the fifth wheel attached. After selling the old tires it cost me just $300.00 to get the truck set up right. Now I love my truck.
    rockymtn:
    I assume you have a 4x4. From what I've been reading Dodge still hasn't resolved the front end problems with that axle.
  • Well....5 days later dealers still got my truck. Replaced right caliphers, put the front tires on the back, things got better, but still not good enough, or safe. Now it is pulling to the left and the dealer has parts ordered to replace the left caliphers. Worry that I got a lemon? Here we are getting ready to make my first truck payment, and I am driving the dealer's neon, and my truck has been in the shop 1 1/2 out of the 3 that I have owned it. What would you do?? Getting prepaired to talk the GM of dealership on Monday....destroying the excitment of owning the new truck....It will be 8 days in the shop and still counting.

    Help!
  • geno7geno7 Posts: 10
    have plagued you guys since you got your new 2001 Dodge Rams. Is this indicative of many of the 2001's? Hope not. I nearly bought a new Dodge Ram 2001 SLT with Cummins 24v Quad SB 4x4 last week from Dave Smith Motors in Idaho. Great place to deal with for a truck. The one I drove had no pull or wander in the front end, but only had 70 miles on it. It also had a Dr. Performance Phase II kit that upped the HP 70+ and the torque 150+. It was so smooth on acceleration and gave you the extra power to pull those big trailers with. Had to walk away from the purchase cause it didn't have power seats, travel convenience group(overhead console), or trailer tow group. Color was one other hangup. Still may work out a deal. These various problems on the front ends, brakes and tranny's make me wonder if DC's quality control is slipping in some factories. Granted, not everyone is having these problems, but enough are that it makes you think they may have sent out some Rams through the GM factory!
  • phatdanphatdan Posts: 2
    My 98 1500 QC pulled to the right when I drove it off the lot. Swapped the front tires and cured the problem.
  • sorcerersorcerer Posts: 28
    I am looking at buying a '01 1500 Quad Cab Ram, I have not yet had the opertunity to drive one, as the dealer in my area did not have any in stock.

    Can anyone tell me if the rear seat is useable?
    I go camping alot, & would like to be able to haul all our gear in the bed, & have room for 4 in the cab. I am talking about 4 full sized adults.

    Please let me know if it would be a comfortable fit for a several hour ride, or if I should be looking down to the Dakota Quad cab.

    Sorcerer
  • warfishwarfish Posts: 117
    I'm assuming these steering problems are all 4x4 related. The question that comes to mind when I read about the dealer swapping tires around to cure the problem is. What happens when it's time to rotate the tires? I don't think I'd let the dealer off the hook that easily, you may end up paying big time to cure a factory problem later on when the dealer can claim you damaged the front end yourself.
    This appears to be a factory defect that is being missed by QC at DC.
  • warfishwarfish Posts: 117
    Yours is a tough problem to answer because everyone has a different opinion about rear seat comfort. I have a Quad cab 2500 and have toted people around quite a bit in the back seat with no complaints. If the people are REALLY large it may be a problem, but any back seat may be also. Check around with other dealers and sit back there yourself. The problem with the Dakota is the box is tiny compared to a full sized truck, but if you don't plan on carrying much back there it may be a good choice.
  • mictromictro Posts: 29
    For what it is worth, I have had several people (adults) tell me that the back seat in my 2500 Ram is much more comfortable than the back seat in a Ford F-250.
This discussion has been closed.