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Chevy Venture: Doors & Windows

I have a 2004 Venture and on ocassion the sliding door is very hard to open. It sticks and other days seems better. This has been to the dealership 3 times and they fix it but comes back again. Any suggestions..
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  • I recently purchased a 98 venture from my grandparents. The unlock button will not unlock the doors while the engine is running. We have to manually unlock each door or turn off the engine & then the locks will unlock automatically. Is there a way to program the van to allow the doors to be unlocked with the engine running?

    Hopefully someone else has run into this.

    Thanks!
    John
  • One day out of the blue I could no longer lock my doors with the driver auto door lock control. When I would press the button the car chimes would ding. The first time you press it, it dings once, press it again, ding ding, press it again, ding ding ding, press it again, only one ding again. When I close the door it dings 3 times. When I try to lock it using the keyfob I can hear it dinging in the same order. The door locks work when the key is in the ignition and turned to the auxilary position. I'm at a total loss, someone please help!

    PS I've also noticed that when I shut the car off the radio stays on and stays on regardless of whether the key is in the ignition, and seems to stay on for a long time if not indefinitely because I can go shopping for hours and come back to the radio still being on.
  • Drivers side window if it goes all the way down it comes off the track. When rolling up the window you have to push it to go up straight.
    Anyone know about this and how to fix it?

    Passenger side window.
    If the window goes down even a crack will not go back up!
    anyone?
  • I am a mechanic and I own a 98 Venture with the same problem.

    GM blew it on the window regulator design. The regulator is cheap and designed so it bends very easy. Fix is to replace the regulator. Regulator is a metal sissor like contraption that links the window track to the motor. There are 4 ends on the regulator. One to the motor, two to the window track and one to a plastic frame that screws to the door frame. The problem is the end that goes to the frame is missing a wheel that would allow the regulator to move smoothly. Without the wheel the regulator just scrapes in the frame and allows the regulator to bend. GM just put in a cheap stud that scrapes its way along a plastic raceway in the regulator frame. Very crude and built to fail. Shame on GM. That is why Japanese are beating us to death.

    I changed mine myself and it bent again in a couple of weeks. Had to go to Chevrolet to get it fixed @$200. Works okay now.
  • These GM vans are notorious for having a problem with water leaking into the cabin on the passenger side floorboard under the carpet, which is just where the wire harness is. This causes the wiring that controls the power door locks to corrode and short out. I haven't made this repair myself yet, but I have heard several people describe it as being an easy one to do. Just pull back the carpet on the passenger side front floor, inspect the wiring for damage and splice and repair it if needed. Then the locks should work properly. As for the leak, it is usually due to a leaky seam under the passenger side wheel well that will need to be caulked with waterproof sealant. Hope this helps us both!
  • writerwriter Posts: 119
    According to Edmunds' TSB finder there is a TSB "040864014" from July 2004 "REVISED WINDOW REGULATOR REPLACEMENT. ( NHTSA ITEM NUMBER - 10012095 )" which showed up in a search for my 2003 Montana. The title is ambiguous. It could mean that only the instructions in the manual were changed or it could mean that there are new parts. If there were new parts, then maybe they have fixed the problem?
  • writerwriter Posts: 119
    It does not sound like "laker_42's" problem is a short circuit. It sounds like it is operating the way it was intended to operate. This would be a safety feature to keep kids and pets safe. I have no opinion if it is a good idea or not. I have no kids or pets, and rarely have passengers.
  • My left window has powered down and now will not return? Is it the switch ? the right side works.
  • Hi Vinray89, tell me did this problem cause doors to lock and unlock when driving? Is this wiring harness corroding causing these locks to short out? Please respond thanks,
  • I had the same issue with my 1999 Venture and it was indeed the switch. the best way to know for sure is to run a 12 volt power lead wire to the hot or positive terminal on the window motor and then ground the other terminal to a good metal ground. If the motor operates when power is supplied, then the motor is good and the switch is bad. If the motor does nothing, I would replace the motor first and then the switch if necessary.
  • I have not had that problem myself, nor have I read of anyone else having it. The only problem I am aware of is that it makes the power door lock switches on the doors inoperative. Are your locks locking and unlocking while the van is in motion on the road? That sound like it could be an electronic issue tied into the transmission or neutral safety switch. When the van is put into gear, the doors are supposed to lock automatically. Then they should unlock when the vehicle is in park and ignition turned off.
  • pjw73nhpjw73nh Posts: 4
    Hello,

    I am faced with replacing either the regulator or the motor assy (or both) in my 2000 venture tomorrow. It has been bad for a few months but was waiting until the weather got better. The passenger window operates crookedly and erratically from either switch. It makes a somewhat rapid thud-thud-thud-thud when it gets to the top and the switch is still pressed. The noise stops when I release the switch. It has managed to stay up for the last few months and I have not used it at all. I was afraid it would get stuck.

    Anyway, I need to investigate it tomorrow. I suspect like Russ23 says that it is the scissors like regulator that is bad, but I want to get it apart first to be sure I have ALL the parts I need before attacking the job. I would've thought the the drivers window would've failed first as it gets much more use than tge passenger window. Is this a difficult job?

    The GM shop manual doesn't give a real good R&R procedure for it. Does the assembly come as a whole? Or are there two separate assemblies? IE is the scissors assy attached to the motor etc? I have seen both advertised on the internet separately. The manual also mentions a special tool J-38864 Counterbalance spring removal and installation tool. I know I don't have access to one of these. Do I really need it? Can I make the repair without it? Can I fashion one?

    If anyone has some step by step R&R procedures, or some tips or shortcuts, I 'd love to hear from them. Thanks..

    P.
  • mpglovermpglover Posts: 2
    Yes, these switches commonly fail. I'd recommend a new one; OEM or Non-OEM.
    That's what mine did twice on a 97 Venture. Each time it's the switch.

    They are on Ebay or Car parts places new in the $50 range, delivered. Seems like a very poor design; but it is easy enough to switch out.
  • travisgtravisg Posts: 10
    How do you access the cable,pulley,and is there an adjustment for the cable? I just got the van not long ago and I pulled on the power sliding door to shut it,forgetting it was a power door. When I did it made a grinding noise. It will still shut but does not latch all the way,and sometimes comes off track. I think I may have stretched the cable or something. Does anyone have any idea how to adjust the cable or how can I access it?
  • I have a similar problem with my Chevy Venture from what I have seen on this forum . The problem I have is when we get fairly consistent heavy rain fall and the van has not been driven everything is OK until I leave the driveway. I hear the water running under the dash until it comes out on the passenger side. Sometimes I hear it running under the dash and across to the drivers side and the down onto my foot. Most of the time it is pouring out on the passenger side which shorts out the electrical door locks and more depending on how much is coming in . Nothing happens at a stand still. It is like the water is pooling under the dash until I drive away. It then pours out and that is it. I have nothing coming in while driving , at least not that I can see or hear. A summer shower doesn't do this, We get a huge amount of rain in the winter here and that is the time of year this shows up. I have had to put towel under the dash and around the fuse block and wiring on the passenger side to help keep the water out. I have no idea where the water is coming in from or where it would pool under the dash . Any suggestions ???
  • I have a 2004 Chevrolet Venture. Noticed the rain leak after heavy rains in California and it continued in Virginia. Things I did and it helped were:
    THE VENT OPENINGS REFERRED TO ARE THE ONES OUTSIDE, UNDER THE WINDSHIELD WIPERS-NOTE THEY ARE FACING STRAIGHT UP WITH STANDARD HOME SCREEN, NOTHING TO STOP WATER
    1. check the plastic piece that fits around the bottom of your windshield. Mine was lifting away and provided the water a straight shot through into the vent. Purchased windshield caulk from auto store and applied liberally where the plastic and glass met.
    2. I tried putting a small piece of plastic under the vent openings. I honestly believe it was minimal in effectiveness but still, it was something.

    Before I continue, the windshield caulk did very well. We did not have the problem again until tropical storm Hannah hit. There was so much rain it wen right through the vent opening itself. My fix:
    seal off the top portion of the vent leavving a small piece open at the bottom to allow for some air flow. (for example duct tape -color matched as closely as possible- can be used) This will allow the water to now flow around the vent and not into it. I have also completely sealed the vents and still had hot/cold air coming in. I am planning on partially closing off the vent as mentioned using a spacer at the bottom of the vent to allow for air, not water to flow.

    Other things to look for would be all around the bottom of the windshield, body work. check for teh foam sealer that should be there. If it looks like it needs to be sealed, caulk it. I was worried about looks when I first started on this issue, but now it is a matter of function over form. All teh above steps can be completed and still not look too bad. just take your time with it, plan it out, execute. best of luck.
  • That fix did not work in heavy downpour. standard rain it was fine. We had a deluge the other night and there was more rain in the van. Next idea is going to be:

    Take out the dash to the point where I can see the ductwork. Run a hose over the windshield attempting to create my own flooding situation and see if I can determine where the problem is coming from. I personally believe the water found a way under the plastic cowl and into the vent, my gut reaction is to try the following procedure.

    Stripping off all window caulk and other fixes. Remove windshield wipers and plastic cowl cover (you will need more body panel clips to reinstall). Inside the large vent openings, I plan to cut a slit/drill holes to provide drainage for water that may enter the vent. I will also be shaping the metal a bit in order to facilitate better drainage.

    After the drainage holes are made, I will seal off the entire topside of the vent. The large openings will be covered and sealed in place with polyurethane adhesive. What about the air? the drain holes made will also serve as an added air flow. It may not be the way the vehicle was designed to work, but the original design is obviously flawed. I will post results of this procedure so anyone interested in the issue can stay advised.
  • How did this fix work? I have the same problem and will need to replace the motor...I think. I've already replaced the switch once, but the left side window is soooo slow and stops sometimes. I'm thinking I need to replace the motor but don't have the special tool J-38864. I'd like to know how things went with your repair and what advice you can give me with my repair.
  • I have a buzzer going off in the rear of the van when it is put in gear. There is no indicator light or message to go with it , so I am at a loss as to what it is. Anyone?
  • gonzygonzy Posts: 3
    I own a Chevy Venture 1998 and have the power sliding door making a big noise when the vehicule is running. I pull out the panel and I saw that the plastic yoyo that rewind back and foward the cable in back side are broken. The power motor are conect to this plastic gear and the back side have a support guide into a metalic hole and are broken. The gear are dancing into the cavity and making a lot of hard noise while car is in movement. Where can I find this part and how I disconect the tension wire that move the door to replace this part?
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