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Hyundai Tiburon Clutch Problems



  • jkleejklee Posts: 4
    how will I know if the clutch is slipping? I'm just starting to learn how to drive a manual, so I won't be able to tell if the clutch is slipping or I just suck at driving stick.
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    In your case, your right... you won't. ;-P
    It takes some at least basic experience to feel the difference.
    If you have someone you know that has something other than a Tiburon, I suggest trying it out.. then driving the tibby.
    In some ways, the slipping clutch the delay valve brings to the Tib will make you a better clutch user, because the delay actually promotes slipping.. much like a early stick driver.
    The easiest method is to just go ahead and remove the delay valve.. if its there, then good, if it isnt.. thats fine too.
    As long as its G O N E.
    If you are learning a stick on the Tib, do it the way it should have been all along.
    No clutch slave delay valve.
    Id teach you myself if I could.
    Ive taught several people how to drive stick.
    Its about timing with rpm, and understanding where the clutch engages and when to shift.
    However, its about experience..
    Practice daily.
    After about a month or so of almost daily driving.. even just short trips, and on back roads perferably (with no traffic.. which is great).
    Learn about easy engagement.. Not banging into gears.. smooth.. think smooth.
    Find the point it engages.. move ahead, clutch in.. brake..
    Find neutral.. brake.
    Go back into first.. when below 15 mph..
    Press the clutch back in.. Brake again.
    Start off.. Start and stop.. Gain confidence.
    That will teach massive control skills.
    If the engine RPM is below 1500 RPM, shift DOWN a gear.. If its over 1800-2000 RPM.. Shift UP. (while driving Easy, this is the common spread of RPM in most cars).
    Hard shifting.. you can take it to 5-6K.. and move to the next gear fast.. But, with experience.. not until then. :-P
    Move through each gear.. skip shifting can come with time (1st to 3rd to 5th (or 6th on the SE).
    All new drivers slip the clutch.
    The 03 and on Tibby's do it ALL the time with the valve.. which wears out the clutch way too early and causes alot of damage in most cases.
    Good luck!
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    The 1st Gen tibby didnt have a clutch problem like the 03 and later.
    Nobody ever talks about them at all.
    Which is great.
    They did use a similar engine and transmission.. the Beta 2.0 was still pretty much the same.
    The only major diff was the new head with variable valve timing used beginning 2003.
    And of course, a completely new body.
    I have heard of some people complaining of the shift forks going out on the 1st gens, but that's not all as common as the Failing clutches of the 03 and later Tibs.
    Its such a silly, and easy fix to remove the clutch slave delay valve and spring.. it makes me almost sick to my stomach that Hyundai even had such a part installed!
    Dont know much about the 3rd gens.. because to me.. they are just 2nd gens with a refresh.
    Hyundai didnt change much at all mechanically.
    Im pretty sure they use the same silly delay valve in all the 5 and 6 speeds.
  • jkleejklee Posts: 4
    I've been practicing on my friend's 2001 honda civic, but I still stall every once in a while. My main problem is getting the car to start moving smoothly. I either burnout or stall. With his honda civic I'm able to half-clutch which makes it a bit easier, but he told me that you can't do half-clutches with a tiburon. Is that true?
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    The slipping action of the stock (delay valve and spring still in place) makes your clutch feel awkward in general on a tib.
    It feels like it has a long pedal, and no definate engagement feel.
    I would agree with his assessment.
    Honda makes some very smooth clutches, and great transmission feel.
    But.. they are also low on torque.. so stalling is easier.
    On a Honda, my advice is to move the clutch AND gas pedal evenly as possible.
    The engine needs alittle more RPM to get moving, with an even clutch disengagement as you begin.
    Once moving, you can release the clutch all the way out alittle faster and can let up some on the gas.
    Your stalling is due to the car not being in motion, and giving the car not quite enough gas (to boost torque).
    For years, Honda has made cars like this.
    Until 2006, with the New 1.8, and any 2.0 engine (SI civic) the torque was up noticably so it made it easier to learn how to drive a stick.
    The 1.5, 1.6 and 1.7 Engines were all low on torque at low rpm, making it harder to clutch without slipping it more, and running the rpm higher for smooth take offs.
    I promise.. you'll get it right.
  • jkleejklee Posts: 4
    Whenever I'm stopped at a hill with my friend's civic, I can just use the half-clutch to keep the car from rolling back. Since tiburon's don't have the half-clutch, are there any tricks that I can use for uphill starts?

    Also, if I do need to replace the clutch, do you know how much a clutch kit for a tiburon could cost?
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    I have heard of a "Hill Holder" clutch.. but that is a Subaru thing.
    Uphill starting is kind of nerve racking.
    It's hard to not slip the clutch alittle due to the additional power the car needs to overcome the grade of the hill.
    Honestly, I would suggest NOT doing alot of hill climbing from a stop while you are learning.
    When you get good at general take offs, shifting, starting and stopping in typical traffic.. then come back to hill driving.
    Its harder on your clutch.. no doubt about it doing hills.
    Much like the Clutch slave Delay valve is in general use on a 2003-on Tiburon.
    (why I suggest removing it so much).
    As far as a clutch kit.. I would suggest a stock type kit from an aftermarket supplier as NEW.. not remanufactured.
    If you plan on modding the car, maybe go with a step up with a slightly heavier clutch for more racing type applications.
    Or nuts, and go full race (ceramic button type pressure plate and disk).
    They tend to be harder to press in, but provide alot of clamping force for HP in excess of say, 500 or more.
    You can buy new Hyundai Stock, but its going to cost more than just buying a OEM style aftermarket clutch.
    Keep in mind.. if the clutch is going out, the flywheel might be toast too.
    Its a dual mass flywheel, and I am not sure if there are any aftermarket companies who make them. (Havent checked recently) but typically, you have to buy them from Hyundai.
    Luk makes good clutches. Might look into one from them.
    As far as cost, they vary.. many cost 150.00 and up for a complete kit.. (disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing, alignment tool sometimes, and occasionally a pilot bearing/bushing.
    You might be able to get a cheaper kit.. but be careful and do research on the company if you are looking to save money.
    When it comes to clutches, I like to buy good quality components.
    I hate redoing my work prematurely.
    Otherwise, good luck!
  • i feel you i have a 2006 tiburon that i bought january 7 th of this year and just had to replace my master clutch cylinder and 12 days after that my starter went out and ever where want a rediculas amount of money everytime this stupid car breaks down
  • I have an 05 tiburon se with right under 50,000 miles. I purchased the car in april 2011 with about 41,000 miles and didn't have any problems with it until this month. One day I got in it and noticed the clutch felt very light, now I'm no expert at driving stick as I just learned when I got the car, but I never rode the clutch or grinded gears so I'm wondering if the previous owner drove it rough or if Hyundai is just that cheap with their parts. I was told if it wasn't a hydraulic clutch it could be adjusted and that might fix the problem but I'm pretty sure it is hydraulic so does that mean I just have to replace it, and if so how much am I looking at spending? :confuse:
  • georgia_chellegeorgia_chelle Posts: 1
    edited March 2012
    I bought my Tiburon w/160 miles on it in 2010 (it was one of those very rare finds). I have had this car for two years & it now has 38,000 miles on it & my clutch is already needing to be replaced. Is anybody else having clutch issues w/their '08 Tiburons?
  • nicolitanicolita Posts: 2
    I recently traded my 05 tiburon se for an 08 se, because of clutch problems with the 05. so far I haven't had any problems with the clutch on the 08 but i do believe hyundai uses cheaply made parts, the clutch being one.
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    Read through these posts. :)
    Its not the build quality of the clutch in most circumstances.
    It is a design addition in the clutch slave cylinder causing premature clutch failure.
    I have made a dozen posts over the last several years about it.
    It is mainly, caused by a delay valve and spring located in the clutch slave cylinder.
    It makes a pro driver feel like a newbie, and a beginner feel like a pro.
    It artifically slips the clutch, which makes it smoother to shift, but it causes a great deal of wear.
    Additionally, it makes the clutch feel "unnatural", meaning it does not engage immediately after you release the clutch, and it slips too long when you depress it during shifts.
    There was NO difference in the part #s between all 2003-2008 Tiburons.
    Other than the engine used. 2.0 4 cyl, or 2.7 6 cyl.
    I have a 2004 2.0.. I removed the delay valve at 16K miles and it now has 100K on it.
    Same clutch.
    So it isnt a quality thing.. its a design execution failure.
    REMOVE the clutch slave cylinder spring and the little valve along with it, and your clutch issues will go away.
    Provided your clutch isn't already damaged beyond repair.
    And by all means.. if you replace the clutch... REMOVE THE CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER DELAY VALVE AND SPRING!!!! (The only 2 parts contained within it).
    Hope this helps.
  • cynl8dougcynl8doug Posts: 1
    My wife, 2 teenage boys, and my self have 146,000 mile on the original clutch. It's the 2006 2.0 Tiburon, and I'm sure those are not all easy miles. My boys learned to drive a stick in that car. Sorry but it has been a great car!
  • I have researched alot about the clutch problems. But others say they don't have any problems. Ill be learning to drive manual for the first time and the sales rep at this dealership in Indy says he'll teach me. But anyways i read in this forum about taking out the delay valve as to not burn out the clutch and flywheel. But this is my question. Would it be better to leave the delay valve in and learn how to drive manual or take it out and then learn to drive? As i didn't see this brought up yet by anyone. Also i was thinking, did Hyundai do this to purposely make the clutch slip as make it easier to learn to drive manual on first and then take out the delay valve so not to hurt the transmission? I need to ask to see if they can inspect the clutch, flywheel. Also which is better the (steel clutch master) or (solid flywheel and clutch by valeo or (clutch master FX100 stg 1 and Fidanza lightweight flywheel.) One more question should i go ahead and replace or see if i can exchange the clutch and flywheel for one of the better ones i mentioned above? or should i just go ahead and get rid of the dual-mast flywheel? Because someone said the dual-mast flywheel is the problem, so what do i replace the dual-mast flywheel with? And im trying to think of what is the best combination to do as this is my first manual? So first i have to learn to drive on this stock manual and then after i become great at it what should i do?
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    Whatever you do.. REMOVE the clutch delay valve and spring.
    The clutch feels like any other manufacturers clutch, and you can learn the right way to use one.
    I have made quite a few posts on here, and I know from personal experience, removing the clutch slave delay valve and spring does nothing but improve clutch feel, life,reliability and hassle/cost of early clutch failure.
    I wouldn't endorse such a claim had I not done it myself.
    Best of luck!

  • Is the 2006 GS 2.0L model die cast steel engine? How strong is it and how strong is the transmission? And how much horsepower can it take?
  • darkcarnivaldarkcarnival Posts: 2
    edited August 2012
    I JUST bought a 2007 Hyundai Tiburon gs 2.0 - with only 42k mile.......I am going to talk to my mechanic about removing the Clutch Delay Valve. I have only had the car 6 weeks..... Don't wanna know how mad I am it's beginning to slip. :lemon:

    I am glad I found this forum! I have had other manual transmissions, and at first I thought I was doing something wrong. My other car is a Grand Prix (<3 I love that car) so I just thought it was maybe going down in engine size...... maybe I am just giving it too much gas???? It did it on a couple hills at first, then it did it on a straight away ....... Hellllll No! Now I know it's not me. I talked to the dealer and am going to call the manager on Monday to talk to him. Yes, I did purchase the extended warranty, of course the clutch is not covered. Oh, and I guess Hyundai only gives their NEW cars a 1yr 12k mile warranty on their clutches. Hummmmmmmmm Wonder Why??

    Anyways I have been reading the post and jemtec, thank you for all the info!!!!!!!!

    I have a question, if I do have to end up replacing the clutch, Flywheel, etc... I do NOT want to put another Hyundai Clutch in there. I have heard good and bad things about some clutches. Valeo and Sachs seem to be recommended a lot. . . . . . :confuse:

    Any Ideas???

    Hopefully I can get the Clutch Delay Valve removed soon and it fixes it, at least delays the wear. It doesn't do it all the time, and there is no clutch burning smell.......... keeping fingers crossed. Has anybody had any transmission problems from removing the Valve? Why did they put it there?

    Thanks for the Help!!!!!!! ;)
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    Hey there.
    Honestly, the stock hyundai clutch isnt bad at all really.
    If you are looking to juice up your tib, then a stronger clutch isnt a bad idea however. (adding another 100-200 Hp).
    Almost any aftermarket, performance clutch is excellent.
    You will have to replace the flywheel due to its unique, dual mass layout, and the fact it more than likely has hot spots on it, possibly some mild cracking as well.
    Hard to say because things are unique for each situation.
    Removing the clutch slave delay valve alone adds tens of thousands of miles to the stock clutch and brings out real "feeling" at the pedal.
    Ive got over 100K on my stocker, but I removed it very early in the cars life so things are still going great.
    As far as the transmission having issues, Ive have heard of people being rough with the stock layout, and having the clutch disc and pressure plate basically disintegrating.
    Sometimes, things are in the wrong place at the wrong time, and things like a bent transmission input shaft (which can ruin the input shaft bearing) can happen as well as the fingers on the pressure plate getting bent, causing all kinds of binding and well..a bad experience.
    Im glad to see you are looking to do this work correctly.
    I can say though, that the stock clutch is totally fine provided you dump that silly clutch delay valve.
    From then on you can expect many years of trouble free driving.
    Speaking from real experience.
    Best of luck man!
  • Thank You!

    Yeah, I am going to talk to my mechanic about the CDV this weekend.

    So do you think removing the valve will add to wear on the transmission with normal driving?

    I think I will just find a reasonable clutch and flywheel if I have to replace it, not concerned about soupin' up the Hyundai. :D One day when I can afford a Camaro I will look into that!! hahaha :shades: I am loving the gas mileage on this thing!!!! :blush:

    Hopefully it will last for a while at least with the mod. - gotta do somethin'.

    Thanks again for your input!!!

    Take Care!
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