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Chevy Suburban Maintenance and Repair

Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,927
This discussion is for finding answers to your Suburban issues.

Steve, Host
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Comments

  • suburknocksuburknock Posts: 8
    My knocking 8.1 2006 Suburban with 000,750 miles was being denied as a problem UNTIL I PROVED it was only 1 cylinder knocking at 1st start of day. One dealer who did not hear it said it sounded "normal" when "they started it in the A.M. Later in the day (4:30) P.M. when I went down and started it with the guy after per him it had not been started since early in that A.M. the service guy did hear the knock. He said that also is normal even though he did NOT hear it in the morning. SO no knock is normal and knocking is normal. All I could do was to look at him in disgust!
    The second dealer (place of purchase)heard the knock and would only check to see if there was a "bulletin". When there was not any bulletins they said too this was "normal". In frustration I disconnect 1 plug at a time and isolated the knock to ONLY 1 cylinder. It was the 3rd one back from the front on the passenger side. I described it in about 2 or 3 TYPED sentences and took it back to where I purchased it for the second time. Low and behold it did exactly what I said and when I said it would. After 30 seconds the knock started for about 30 more seconds. The "TECH" assistance people at GM I am told think possibly it is a wrist pin. I think they are going to put in a pressed pin. It's been at the dealer since last Monday May 15, 2006. They really did not want to inconvience me as this was going to take a while. I told them please KEEP IT/FIX IT I have another car. They are sticking to there story though in that if this does not cure knock it probably could be piston slapping due to design and they will "NOT" fix that and well you have 36,000 miles of guaranty. GM wonders why people buy japanese vehicles??????????
  • zekedzeked Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Chevy Sub, and when it is started the small speaker over the drivers head (OnStar?,Cell phone?) make a terrible growling noise. I am certain that it is this speaker, as I can put my hand on the cover and change the frequency/tone. It goes away in ablut 6 blocks.

    Anyone ever experience this? Probable cause?

    thanks
    Zeke
  • I have a 2006 Suburban less than a month old with 888 miles on it. It has from the beginning had a clunking, popping noise coming from under the front of the vehicle. It is getting worse. The dealer has kept the car for the past week. They said a Service Bulletin advised them to put washers in the front cross member. They did. Still clunking. Anybody have any experience with this problem? I asked them to remove the washers since they didn't help and therefore must not be needed. Clunking occurs only when stopping shifts the weight to the front of the vehicle. I feel that it is unsafe. I appreciate any suggestions.
  • I have read about problems with intermediate steering shafts in some other posts. Can somebody give me some details on this shaft. Where is it located? Exactly what is it? Is there more than one part to the steering shaft on 2006 Suburbans? Does the shaft have grease fitting or any other means to lubricate it? I have owned and worked on a bunch of cars but I have never came across a reference to an intermediate steering shaft. If there is a malfunction with the shaft, is it dangerous to drive the vehicle? Could it be causing the clunking noise on my new Suburban with only 888 miles on it. My dealer cannot seem to find the problem. I have described and given some details on it in a previous post. I welcome any thoughts and opinions on it. Thanks = = = Gary
  • st_erikkst_erikk Posts: 2
    I've looked at everything almost, and cannot seem to figure out why my 1983 Suburban Scottsdale won't start unless the Glow Plugs are cool. What would the solution be?
  • st_erikkst_erikk Posts: 2
    Let me be a bit more descriptive. After it starts the first time, once it's shut down, it won't start up again until the Glow light comes on, and then off again. Which takes more than an hour sometimes.
  • mavs1mavs1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Suburban that will not crank the first time. Sometimes I have to crank it 3 times before it starts. This happens more often when I am at or below a quarter tank of gas. I have been told that my fuel pump is going out. I do not want to spend over $200 for a fuel pump until I find out if this is what the problem is. How about a fuel pressure regulator? Could this cause the cranking problem?

    Thanks!
  • wsp310wsp310 Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Suburban Z71 with 5.3 and 58K miles. I started noticing a loud metallic rattle/knocking that was coming from under the vehicle between the engine and trans. Loud at start-up then quieting down as car warmed up. Great oil pressure (60#) and does not sound like a rod knocking or the piston slap I've heard about. I stopped at a friends shop and he thought it was the catylic converter on the Y-pipe. He said something about the inside failing and coming loose then rattling around till it heats up. Sounds like it's a $600.00 part before the additional 4 Oxy-sensers. Has anyone heard of this before? No ECM lights on dash and lost of power.

    John
  • wsp310wsp310 Posts: 2
    Sorry about that. The truck has lots of power, not lost power. I want to take a 4000 mile round trip and would hate to be stuck somewhere with out of state plates and grumpy family if you know what I mean.

    John
  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    My 2 cents FWIW.
    I'd lean to this being a probl with the fuel pump. I have heard of several people with fuel pump probs that show up when feul is low, but prob tends to be very intermittent regardless of fuel level.
    One question is do you hear the fuel pump come on every time you turn the key to on? I know the fuel pumps on Suburbans tend to by louder than most, so it should be easy for you to hear.
    Other possibilities are the main relay for the fuel pump, and the fuel pressure regulator. Unfortunately these probs can be very difficult to diagnose, especially if it an electrical short in the main relay, or elsewhere.
    I know personally, I just finally fixed my son's Accord that had a bad main relay. Unfortunately, I put a new fuel pump in first, as well as a pressure regulator.
  • edwin10edwin10 Posts: 32
    It sounds to me more like a heat shield that is loose,
    until it expands with the heat.

    If you have had no loss of power, then most likely not
    an internal issue with the converter.
  • edwin10edwin10 Posts: 32
    The unit above your head is a small fan motor, for the
    a/c. It is a temperature sensor.

    Most likely the sleve bearings are dirty/going bad.

    You could open it up and put a drop of very fine oil
    on it, or replace motor. It is very small.
  • June 02, 2006-- After two dealers said knocking normal they replaced piston in engine. They admitted the "wristpin" was or had to much clearance. I am told in 2002 GM went to full floating wristpins. I drove it about 125 miles around the LA freeways to break in the new pin and piston. Time will tell. Sure hope this cures the knock. :) I will keep this board up to date.
  • lee42leelee42lee Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Chevy Suburban 2500 LT 4X4 and the front air is cold but the rear isn't. I am aware of the problems some have with the air mix door so I removed the plastic and checked and the actuator and the door and working fine. What should the next thing to look for be? Thanks for any help.

    Lee
  • hotrod763hotrod763 Posts: 1
    Have you found a solution to your problem? I had the compressor replaced and now the rear air is not cooling. The front cools fine. Any suggestions?
  • chevymomchevymom Posts: 1
    First the buckle housings broke off of the center row bucket-seat seatbelt buckles, then one of the passenger seatbelt buckles broke and had to be replaced. Now, one month later, the driver's seat belt buckle has broken! I am having to drive without a seatbelt. This is a seriously unacceptable problem. Would it do me any good to complain to Chevy? Or is it just me?
  • markncatmarkncat Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 2500 chevy suburban, that is doing the same thing, however the past 2 x I have took it in they siad they could not find anything wrong. I have heard about the fuel pump, however it's possible it could be the ignitor or coil. I will find out sometime this week if that is the case.
  • sck98_98sck98_98 Posts: 1
    I have a '99' Chevy Sub 2wd 5.7 Wont start when it rains or real high humidity. New fuel pump/fuel filter/dist. cap/plugs and wires; no help. 104000 miles HELP
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,927
    Check the "No Start" Problems discussion too.

    Stweve, Host
  • bearvicbearvic Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Diesel Suburban that has been acting this way for quite some time as well. I already have a new fuel pump. Did you find out anything more? Finally couldn't get it started again tonight and had to be towed home.
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