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Chevy Suburban Maintenance and Repair

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  • rjt427rjt427 Posts: 27
    Does anyone know who makes a locking gas cap for a 07 Tahoe
  • dieselonedieselone Posts: 5,651
    I had the same problem in my 2000 Suburban. Cold air coming in on passenger side. I also had a problem with the heat sticking so I took it to my friendly neighborhood Chevy dealer and let them deal with it.

    They replaced some type of air control valve and added insulation. Just got it back tonight. Since no one was sitting in the passenger seat, I don't know if it's fixed. Wife and kids and I will be driving the burb a 100 miles or so tomorrow, so I'll find out for sure then.
  • I have a 95 suburban. All the settings on the heating control work accept for the defroster. I can turn the dial to that setting but nothing happens, and in Michigan, that is not a good thing. Any ideas as to what is wrong and how to fix it?
  • I occasionally get a loud "bang" from under my '97 Suburban. It sounds is as if someone hit a metal gas tank with a hammer. It seems to happen more often when it's cold outside. Sometimes while driving, sometimes while idling, sometimes after shutting engine off, sometimes with full tank, sometimes with almost empty tank... I can't seem to make a correlation, and wondering if anyone else out there found the source of a similar noise. Maybe thermal expansion of something, but I can't get it to happen when I'm under there looking....

    Any ideas?

    Thanks in advance,

    Carl
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Had a '96 with similar noise, it is the gas tank. I believe it is related to a vaccuum being pulled by gas vapor recirculation, charcoal cannister et al. I would hear mine shortly after shutting off the engine.

    I did find a small tubing up on the canister, that a mouse had eaten thru. I fixed that connection, and hadn't heard the noise in about a month before I traded it in on a 2007 model.
  • Thanks! I'll check it out.
  • help I have a 99 surban about every 4 mo or so it wount start it starts and dies.This pro blem has been going on for about 4 years.Its seem to do it more often in december cold and rainie .Ive took it to the dealer several different times no code error was found.The fuel pump,relay fuel pressure regulator,filter,ignition switch was replaced.My problem sounds like this thread,
  • I have a 99 with the same problem all fuel components have been replaced along with the ignition help
  • did you ever resolve the problem
  • somewhat all the dash lites are on and the drivers side back door window wount go up or down
  • I''ve resolved this "stuck in park" problem, but am posting it here so in case someone else has the problem, they will hopefully find this tidbit when they search. If you have a Suburban or Tahoe or similar GM that won't come out of park, the problem could be a sticky "shift lock actuator". This is a stubby cylinder-shaped solenoid-type thing that sits on a shift linkage rod under the dash. If it is nice and clean, you should be albe to hear it click on/off as you press on the brake pedal with the ignition on. It was pretty easy to remove, disassemble, clean, re-install, and away you go! It was tough figuring out if it was this, or the cable-based lock mechanism, but trust me... this one is a lot easier to inspect than the other, so you can learn from my mistake and start with this one!

    Carl
  • Try to describe the problem more fully. Did it die or not start. If it wouldn't start, when was it last running? How full was the fuel tank. Did you use dry gas? Did you fill up at an unfamiliar station or put gas in from a fuel can? How did you finally get it started? Did anyone check the fuel filter? Any other problems? How did it sound when you tried to start it. Did you try adding gas to try to start it? Keep it in a garage? Short or long trips? Can you hear the fuel pump run?
  • Hi Thanks it started for about 1 second then would die it would keep doing this start die start die.About 2 hours later it would start,and then it would run fine for about 6 mo.,or so,then it would do this again start die start die.It seems like it always does in December when its cold and rainey.I got the car in December about 4 years ago used 2 weeks after I got it this problem started.I took it to an auto shop they replaced the fuel pump,fuel presure regulator,filter,fuel relay, the car still would not run it would start die start die,finally the car started for unknown reason it ran fine for another 6 mo. or so and did this again since Ive had this car its done this to me about 10 times or so.Ive took to the dealer 4 different times no code error came up he said it could be the ignition so replaced something that had to do with the ignition.They say they cant find anything wrong with the car.Ive read two threads on this wed site that sounds just like my car symptoms the car would start then die.One of those cars was a 99 surban just like mine I think the person was greg
  • my 94 suburban wont start. I know the starter is good, the battery is new, the positive battery wire is new, the ignition lock cylinder is new, the ignition switch on the steering column is new, and the truck will not start. when i turn the key lights on the dash come on but nothing else. it used to be a off and on problem that got worse in cold weather but now nothing. if you have any suggestions on the problem please help?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    When you say it "doesn't start", do you mean that the starter doesn't engage and turn the engine....or do you mean that the starter turns the engine over but the engine won't fire up and run?
  • reg8reg8 Posts: 7
    START DIE - START DIE -- ....I am posting this because it was a problem I had on my 99 suburban that I think I have finally solved. It seemed like it was tied to altitude, weather. etc. so I never expected this solution. I replaced the security theft module (reads the code in the keys) and it appears the problem is solved after all these years. Apparently minor changes in weather or altitude affected the circuitry. They are not cheap, about $180.00 (module only) but it is well worth not being stranded now.

    Good luck.
  • Thanks I was looking for reg8 your problem sounded just like the problem I was having.This week it will be going to the dealer to have the security theft module replaced. Thanks for the information have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
  • I have a 1997 Suburban and the power seat fwd/rvs function quit working after I took it to a "professional" car wash where it was vacuumed, detailed, etc. The seat worked fine before, but now it just "whirs" as the switch is cycled either way. Front and rear tilts still work fine as does the lumbar inflator. Anything I could look for to fix it myself? I am a tall guy and TG it broke when fully back, but I do need the functionality of the seat.

    Thanks in advance to any replies or help.
  • Hi all,

    My 95 GMC 7.4 ltr Suburban was running fine and died as I was changing the air cleaner filter and won't start again. I replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump and am showing good pressure. The motor will start with a little gas poured down thwe TBI unit but dies right away as the prime is burned off. I replaced the ignition module in the distributer too. I have voltage to the (2) injectors in the TBI unit but they are not firing when I crank the motor. I can make them fire manually with a small 12v battery so the injectors do work.

    I'm not sure what to check next; I thought I maight have grounded something with the air cleaner housing or knocked something loose. I'm not getting any codes either. maybe bad crank sensor or ???

    Any help or diection greatly appreciated.

    :confuse:
  • I just had the shaft replaced on my '04 burb at no cost and out of warranty. It mad a thunking noise every time you hit a bump. They seem to be having a problem with these.
  • rcnicrcnic Posts: 2
    180K on my 1996 C1500, 4WD. I had the brake booster replaced at ~150K and I changed out the master cylinder a couple months ago. Before replacing the master cylinder, the pedal would travel to the floor with multiple pedals pushes. There were no signs of brake fluid loss either from the resevoir or at the wheels.

    I replaced the master cylinder but now the pedal is very difficult to depress. Hopefully, the booster didn't fail already. But, when purchasing the master cylinder, the parts shop said to look at the Service Parts ID sticker to determine JB6 or JB7. I found the sticker, but I didn't find where it identified JB6 or 7. Comparing the two visually, there was virtually no difference.

    If I put the incorrect one on, could this result in increased resistance for the brake pedal? Also, can I use the VIN to validate if it's a JB6 or 7 and if so, how?
  • i have an older sub its an 88 and i was wondering if someone could tell me what kind of transmission i have.

    from experience, the 700r4 trannys have been unreliable and are not durable. i have a 2500 suburban, that has towed an 11 thousand pound trailer for the past 5 years up and down the mountains probably 2 times a month. the transmission is original and it is still rock solid at 200,000 miles. i noticed it looked different than the 700r4 i had in another suburban.

    any ideas?
  • Your computer or the "main brain" may have fried. My 91 Bronco did the exact same thing as you described, and it ended up being the computer. Expensive fix, though.
  • Most older suburbans have either the TH400 or TH350 tranny, both 2 and 4 wheel drive. The way to tell is the shape of the pan, or the placement of the modulator valve. On the Th350, the modulator valve is located on the passenger side of the transmission next to the tail shaft and in line with the trans, on the TH400 it is located on the passenger side as well, however it is perpendicular to the trans. and forward of the tail shaft
  • Here is my problem. I have an '03' Surburban with 65,000 miles on it. I have an intermitten problem when I hit a bump it seems like my vehicle shuts off and turns on momentarily. Sometimes the door locks just cycle and sometimes the check engine light goes on and off, ABS light comes on and off, brake warning light goes on and off, service brake system flashes across my odometer and chimeing like I just started the vehicle. I also lose power for a second. Sometimes the ABS light and brake warning light stays on. My brakes work fine and the brake warning light goes out when I shut off and restart the vehicle, then after running awhile the ABS clears. At least till I hit another bump. Any thoughts where to start? It seems to be a loose electrical connection. Checked ths grounds off of the engine and it isn't loose. I also had the seat heaters on when it did this and they turned off. No OBD codes.
  • rcnicrcnic Posts: 2
    What I had earlier thought was the Service Parts ID Sticker under the hood was not. The Service Parts ID sticker is located on my 96 Sub in the bottom of the glove box. There are a number of codes on this sticker that are all sorted alphnumerically. In my case, I installed a JB7 and should have installed a JB6, which is the likely cause for the difficultly in pressing the brakes.
  • dan136dan136 Posts: 2
    i have a 96 gmc 1500, i notice the light on the dash (p) was on. i thought it was my emer.brake, but when i checked my brake fluid there was none in it , so i filled it back up, started my truck went down the road and stopped, i then noticed the fluid running out bad it looks like it was near the gas tank alot of fluid in the frame.
    any ideas?
  • batkinsonbatkinson Posts: 11
    try to tighten the brake line under the car, if that don't work replace the wheel cylinder it's about 20.00 dollars
  • I have a 94 Suburban with 5.7, automatic, & 174,000mi. Recently the ignition system has taken to intermittently cutting out (no spark). It can happens at anytime and under any driving condition. The engine will stop, and after sitting for a short period of time will start up. Sometimes it will continue to run with no further problems and other times it will shut down again after driving just a short distance. The most persistent thing that usually happens, but not 100% of the time, is that once it starts it will immediately cut out the instant I take it out of PARK. This may not always happen but it's the only constant, since driving or engine conditions appear to be irrelevant. Before this problem started I had planned on doing a complete tune-up, which included a new distributor and coil. That has since been completed and upon starting the engine up following the ignition overhaul it immediately shut down when taken out of PARK. No OBD Codes.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check to see if your ignition switch is defective
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